Modified Production Knives (traditional only)

EngrSorenson said:
Awesome!!!!
I’ve heard folks have had trouble redying due to reactions cases by the dye on 1095- rust spots and such... how’d you do it?
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The Fiebings Pro Oil dyes are alchool based and according to the safety data sheet, it contains for the most part ethanol, isopropanol, xylene, ethyl acetate,... So no water/salt in significant quantity to cause corrosion. I did soak a bright nail in the dye for 24 hours as a test and it came out without any discoloration.

For the actual redyeing, I first wiped the knife clean with a bit of rubbing alchool on a paper towel to remove traces of oil/grease. Then immersed the knife in dye (using a Mason jar) and let soak for 24 hours. After that period, I was satisfied with the color and penetration so I let it dry for a day and a half without wiping the excess dye off. Then once all the solvents evaporated, I wiped the entire knife clean with a paper towel+WD-40 and also flushed the joints and spring with it.

I guess that's about it, I hope this helps ;)
 
Ice Tigre said:
The saga of that build can be seen here;
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GREAT write-up... step by step. I always forget to do that when I'm working on something. I'm with you, I think the second profile is much more user-friendly.
Very nicely done... good looking knife.
 
This thread is probably appropriate for this question...

I've not taken apart a lock-back knife before. I'm thinking of re-handling my black plastic Tribal Lock, and was wondering if there are any hidden pitfalls, or tricks to learn. If I could re-handle it without taking it apart, that would be ideal, but I don't really want to rely on epoxy to hold on scales... I'd like to have pins in them....
Any advice is appreciated....
 
hornetguy said:
This thread is probably appropriate for this question...

I've not taken apart a lock-back knife before. I'm thinking of re-handling my black plastic Tribal Lock, and was wondering if there are any hidden pitfalls, or tricks to learn. If I could re-handle it without taking it apart, that would be ideal, but I don't really want to rely on epoxy to hold on scales... I'd like to have pins in them....
Any advice is appreciated....
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My main advice is to make sure your replacement pins are more or less exactly the same size as the current ones. With lockbacks, getting the lock-up just right can be tricky. Also, I find you may have to do all finish work in the spine area before placement of the lock bar, as the finishing is more difficult fully assembled with the spring pushing at the lock bar.

SO, in this order...pin the butt-end, finish the spine work, place the lock bar (put the spring in first, LOL) and pin it. Save the blade pivot for last, as you can check lock up and make slight adjustments before calling it done.
 
Another modded purchase...

I believe it was a spear main with pen secondary.

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knifethetank said:
euroken euroken I like that 2 blade combo with a clip and coping, according to the cap I believe the main use to be a one arm
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NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO~~~~...One arm is one of those grails I would have loved to get my hands on. I didn't ask the modder what knife it was originally before the modification lol. I would not have dared to send in my one arm to be modded!

Thank you for the insight!
 
glennbad said:
Great work, did you do the mod yourself? Did you create the sawcut look? If so, how? There has been some discussion on that...
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jsdistin said:
Ditto
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Eric Albers did it for me about 6yrs ago as a side project while he was still at Canal Street Cutlery. I had a 1975 Russell commemorative issue by Schrade and wanted sawcut bone instead of the original Delrin. Eric said he had some Mammoth laying around waiting on a project and what about that. Told him to go for it :)
 



Good thing it ain't sharp!
I believe it was (once) a hawkbill. Its a very heavy duty piece with a walk and talk that best described as strut and shout:) So worth saving!





The kick had to go almost entirely to sink the edge into the handle.
Ehhh....well its razor sharp now but I somehow don't imagine I will make a million euro by patenting this as a pattern:rolleyes::Dbut I'm enjoying this slicy beast.
 
ed_is_dead said:



Good thing it ain't sharp!
I believe it was (once) a hawkbill. Its a very heavy duty piece with a walk and talk that best described as strut and shout:) So worth saving!





The kick had to go almost entirely to sink the edge into the handle.
Ehhh....well its razor sharp now but I somehow don't imagine I will make a million euro by patenting this as a pattern:rolleyes::Dbut I'm enjoying this slicy beast.
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Nice job. :cool::thumbsup: I like that big bolster; it would be a shame not to carry that fine knife.
 
I started this one a long time ago. I’ve been busy and haven’t had much time to work on anything, but I finally finished it up last night. Blue paper micarta (I think), Black liners, Black micarta pivot collars. It’s my first birdseye that I’ve done. It could always be better, but I’m happy with how it turned out.
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I never liked the scale color of this 2014 BUCK 55. Had the scales matched, I might could have lived with it, but the difference between mark to pile was night to day and after all these years, it just bothered me. My solution was to order a 2020 BUCK 55 in Ebony. Should be here Monday.

Well, since I have a new 55 on the way, I decided to chance destroying the one I have had since 2014. Figured the worst that could happen was I would have to toss a knife I never liked to begin with.

Other, more crafty, folks would have simply swapped out the scales or done some other modification. Me on the other hand, have no idea what I'm doing when it comes to modding knives. But it came out better than expected and even features some nice Worm Groovy kind of texture to the handle and the scale color definitely matches mark to pile.

There was a good deal of heat involved and it lifted the corners of the scales on this little knife, which I had to glue back down. That worked, so I kept going ... and then cleaned the surface of the scales with a worn out green meany. Since there was so much heat, I had to re-oil the knife of course. I use Sentry Tuf-Glide, and after oiling the knife, I worked some of the oil into the scales. I'm happy with it now ... color, texture ... I made it mine.

An older picture of the mark side BEFORE (didn't take one nor have one of the former pile side but it was uniformly darker than the mark side with no hint of that hidious orange color):

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And now after tossing fire at it with a little hobby torch:

Mark Side ...

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Pile Side ...

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EDIT: Certainly not everyone's cup 'o tea, the 55 passes the "light of day" test for me.
While it's always been functional, this is the first time in 7yrs I've actually liked it.
Prolly because I did something to it and didn't destroy it LOL ... I tried ;)

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