Modified Production Knives (traditional only)

black mamba said:
... Took me about an hour with the belt sander and 150 and 400 grit paper.... Hope you like the mod.

d4f2582a-36f9-4bec-a0e0-a774b5b9d83e_zpslik2eehh.jpg~original
Click to expand...

That was an hour well spent. It turned out very nicely. :thumbup:
 
Beautiful stuff everyone, very nice craftsmanship. I have a Camco/Camillus Frankenknife I received from someone on here (nameless for now, I have a plan ;)) and it is coming along nicely. I have finally made a list of things to do in order to get it running, and plan on plugging away for an hour a day until that list is done. No pictures until the final reveal unfortunately.

Connor
 
black mamba, nice modified S&M!:thumbup:


My project for the future is rehandling and putting together this old Robeson Barlow,
but I have some questions before I get started.

The bolster just seems to be pinned once on the brass liner, no soldering work done here.
I can bend the brass so that a gap becomes visible. Would it make sense for more stability to connect these two parts with tin or silver?

Furthermore, the hole for the end pin at the bolster outsides is bigger than the other holes for the same pin on the blades and liners (0,03 inches difference).
Would it be possible to peen the difference away when making the pin?
At least (what I read on the forums) I will also need a slackner tool when I do this?

Here are some before pictures





thanks,
mat
 
I'm not an expert, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night... I've done 7 of these type of projects now and I'm, currently working on the 8th.

I would not bother with the solder unless there are visible gaps between the liner and bolsters. I don't think it will make much of a structural difference, although somebody with more knowledge in this area may give you different information.

In terms of the oversized holes, yes, when you peen the pins, go slowly, the brass/NS will expand to fit the outer hole ~ work around the edges of the pin carefully as you can expand the pin down below the bolsters, if you're not careful. I counterbore the holes on scales/bolsters so I can get the surface of the peened section of the pin slightly larger. It seems to me that it would make the knife more stable.

A slackener would be very helpful, but it does not seem to be strictly necessary - I haven't used one on any of my projects (I haven't made one yet), and they all start off just a touch snug but loosen up quickly with some oil and fiddling. I will add that I've never had any gaps or wobble in any of the knives I've put together.
 
nifebrite said:
black mamba, nice modified S&M!:thumbup:


My project for the future is rehandling and putting together this old Robeson Barlow,
but I have some questions before I get started.

The bolster just seems to be pinned once on the brass liner, no soldering work done here.
I can bend the brass so that a gap becomes visible. Would it make sense for more stability to connect these two parts with tin or silver?

Furthermore, the hole for the end pin at the bolster outsides is bigger than the other holes for the same pin on the blades and liners (0,03 inches difference).
Would it be possible to peen the difference away when making the pin?
At least (what I read on the forums) I will also need a slackner tool when I do this?

Here are some before pictures





thanks,
mat
Click to expand...

Nifebrite, the hole in the bolster was likely reamed as HeathH stated so that when the pin was hammered it would form a nice head (similar to a wood screw head). This is what holds the knife together. Without that head the slightest twisting of the blade would pop the knife apart resulting in a loose blade. This is why the hole looks so large. Simply hammering the pin will also slightly enlarge due to the softness of the nickel silver. What's more important is that the hole at the base (through the brass) is the proper size, which according to the pics looks correct.

The bolsters are held to the liners with what's called a tommy-on pin. This is more than adequate, and is what most every cutlery used back in the day. It's actually part of the bolster, not a separate pin, and is formed in a hydraulic press when the bolster is formed. Once you hammer the blade pin in you'll actually have two pins holding the bolsters on.

Good luck with the project!!

Eric
 
Hi there.yes my favourite knife (TAYLOR EYE WITNESS).I sent this knife to sheffield for repair as it's hard to find à blade in this condition. I phoned famous sheffield shop and was told they new someone that would do the repair .so I got in touch with Mike Wharnie. He tried to save the original bone but it disintegrated as he attempted to take the knife apart.He text me and said he had some old bone he could use for the repair .this was the result .As you can imagine I was so pleased with the result.to bring such a beautifull knife back to life. Thanks

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 
HeathH said:
I'm not an expert, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night... I've done 7 of these type of projects now and I'm, currently working on the 8th.

I would not bother with the solder unless there are visible gaps between the liner and bolsters. I don't think it will make much of a structural difference, although somebody with more knowledge in this area may give you different information.

In terms of the oversized holes, yes, when you peen the pins, go slowly, the brass/NS will expand to fit the outer hole ~ work around the edges of the pin carefully as you can expand the pin down below the bolsters, if you're not careful. I counterbore the holes on scales/bolsters so I can get the surface of the peened section of the pin slightly larger. It seems to me that it would make the knife more stable.

A slackener would be very helpful, but it does not seem to be strictly necessary - I haven't used one on any of my projects (I haven't made one yet), and they all start off just a touch snug but loosen up quickly with some oil and fiddling. I will add that I've never had any gaps or wobble in any of the knives I've put together.
Click to expand...

ea42 said:
Nifebrite, the hole in the bolster was likely reamed as HeathH stated so that when the pin was hammered it would form a nice head (similar to a wood screw head). This is what holds the knife together. Without that head the slightest twisting of the blade would pop the knife apart resulting in a loose blade. This is why the hole looks so large. Simply hammering the pin will also slightly enlarge due to the softness of the nickel silver. What's more important is that the hole at the base (through the brass) is the proper size, which according to the pics looks correct.

The bolsters are held to the liners with what's called a tommy-on pin. This is more than adequate, and is what most every cutlery used back in the day. It's actually part of the bolster, not a separate pin, and is formed in a hydraulic press when the bolster is formed. Once you hammer the blade pin in you'll actually have two pins holding the bolsters on.

Good luck with the project!!

Eric
Click to expand...

That helps a lot!
Thanks for your answers, Heath and Eric. Good to sit beside you on this virtual bench on the forum.;):thumbup:
Hopefully I could post some pictures of the process in the next days.
So long,
mat
 
Yesterday I received in the mail a Case Slimline Trapper. I paid $36 on eBay for this gem, so it was cheap enough for me to take a chance on a new pattern, even though I generally don't like to buy Case without inspecting them first. Well, this one came, and though I do like the pattern, a lot more than I thought I would, this particular example had "issues." The blade was off-center enough that it was almost rubbing the liner, the spring was very proud of the liners and covers when the blade was open, and the red bone was eye-hurting, vivid red graduating to pink. So this afternoon I set to work.

I started with the blade, and manually krinked it straight by opening it and bending it, hard. On most knives this would be impossible or a very bad idea, but this one has only one blade, and it's long and skinny, so it worked perfectly. Blade centered. Next I addressed the proud backspring. If it were sunken there's not much I could do, but because it was raised when the knife was open, I could remove material from the exposed flat of the tang when the knife is shut, and maybe fix the problem. So I got my set of Swiss needle files and set to work. Two hours later, the backspring was flush when open and flush when closed. Finally, I needed to do something about that color. Off to Wal-Mart for some cherry red and black Rit fabric dye. I sprayed the handle of my knife with non-fume oven cleaner to strip off any wax, and all the oil that had gotten on there. Next, I put a little water in a pot, added a shot of each color dye, a dribble of my wife's dish soap (she was giving me a continuous evil eye as I used her kitchen for my highly-dubious endeavors) and a couple teaspoons of salt, and brought the mix to a boil. I poured the dye mix into a bottle, rinsed off my knife, and hung it in the bottle with the blade through a piece of wood placed across the top, so that it could sit in the dye with as little contact as possible between blade and the salty dye mixture. I let it hang for about 15 minutes, pulled it out, rinsed it off with steaming hot tap water (especially the joint where I accidentally submerged about half of the tang) and slathered the knife generously with 3-in-1 oil to let the bone absorb it for half an hour.

At the end, I had a substantially nicer knife. My dye job wasn't perfect. I was aiming more for that deep, dark, old red bone of 1960s Case knives, and what I got was a bone that varies from purple-red wine, to chestnut, to black depending on light and angle. I may re-dye later, but for now I'm satisfied. And the improved F&F doesn't hurt either.

Before:




After:







Close up of the filed tang: sorry I don't have a macro lens for my phone. Also note the freshly oiled surface has already collected some pocket lint, which is the dark spot.

 
GaiusJulius, it looks great. I actually like the variation in color. It gives it the look of having seen a lot of pocket time. Nice job. :thumbup:
 
1c6xZ0z.jpg

TprlHJc.jpg


I slimmed down the handle and the added the scallops for a little more grip. The black g10 knife has about a 3.25 inch blade and the yellow g10 has a 2.75 in blade.
 
Beautiful work on those Case knives folks! Today I will be hetting some work done on my latest secret project, maybe I'll post some pictures :D

Connor
 
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