Mod'ing The CS Trail Hawk

loosen set screw. actually, remove it. then I use a piece of pipe, but whatever- just slowly pound the head down the handle and take it off.

Hawk handles like these get thicker as you go up. so the head wedges itself tighter each time you use it-- at least in theory.
 
Okay, knowledgeable peeps. I've got a working mod - I flattened the hammer poll and grooved it. hit the head with my belt grinder and a 120 grit Jflex belt, got about 66% of the black coating off. Convexed the edge nice and tidy. I used hemp cordage to wrap the handle for 3 inches under the head. Oh, and linseed oiled the haft when it was apart.

Far from perfect, but workable.

Next I need to strip the norse hawk, get the long handle, and gunkote it. I have gunkote questions- one, if I coat it white, let it dry, then tape my runes on and spray it read, let it dry, and remove the tape, I'll have a good two tone that I can then bake. That all sound good?

Second, and this is actually a knifemaking question- does anyone know how epoxy does with gunkote? If I "koted" an entire blade, then epoxied the scales on, would it work?
 
crap i didnt soak haft in linseed oil. i totally missed this step during my research, i hope it doesnt affect my mod too much.
 
I won't lie- there's PLENTY of garden tools in my yard that I just paint linseed oil on without taking the heads off.
 
lockheed123 said:
I've had a quick spin through the thread but..

How exactly do you take apart and assemble the axe head?

A few things I picked up from the thread is that you can put the axe bit it in an oven to expand the metal (when youput it back on) and also to use some sort of adhesive to ensure a secuire fit to the handle.

Do you just pound off the axe head with a rubber mallet?

I know the basic theory behind rehandling an axe with a wedge then soaking the haft end in linseed oil to expand the wood etc...but with a tomahawk I don't see the need for a wedge on a thinner diameter haft.

Do you just pound on the head through the single tapered handle? i.e. you push up the axe head from bottom of handle to top until it is secure. :confused:

Any good instructions or further tips will be appreciated :)
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i just gently slide my heads on the wood handles and epoxy them with 20,000 psi epoxy (aircraft grade).

- i think a lot of breaks in wood handles come from the mounting stresses, when they are pounded on.

dunno though, brother. - i make composite handles so i never have to wonder.

vec
 
Okay, I don't use eopxy on wood handles for hawks for the same reason I don't epoxy my mattock heads (same thing, the wider at the top pressure fit)-

Then handle is replaceable.

Fitting stresses are alleviated by shaping the handle and the socket properly, deburring, and not over "tightening" the fit.
 
koyote said:
Fitting stresses are alleviated by shaping the handle and the socket properly, deburring, and not over "tightening" the fit.
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undoubtedly, brother 'yote.

but that's a lot of work, and takes time and effort, especially for the folks that don't make a living with their hands.

just as good IMHO to epoxy it in, and cut the crown off for high-speed, low-drag - if and when the handle breaks, just drill it out, or burn it out if in the field (in a controlled fashion, with a coal - it's like making a wooden spoon without a knife), and then go your route, if you have to.

just my opinion. - your points are well-taken, brother.

i'll make an example pictorial, if the brethren would like.

vec
 
tinman44 said:
crap i didnt soak haft in linseed oil. i totally missed this step during my research, i hope it doesnt affect my mod too much.
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I usually finish any wooden handled tool by applying at least 4 layers of tung oil on the haft - with the first 2 or so layers diluted with turpentine or spirit (50%) to aid absorbtion. I allow about a day between coats.

Then I soak the haft end in linseed oil. I could just use tung oil again but its a lot more expensive and I try not to waste/contaminate any of it by pouring it out just to soak something in it. I do this especially when re-handling a hatchet or axe to expand the wood and tighten the fit. I guess it would work on a tomahawk.

As with the tung oil finish, you get almost a hard film-like finish which is not glossy but somewhat shiny. Very good barrier against water, alcohol and minor dirt - and its natural and non-toxic.

With most drying oils you gotta take into account the wrinnkled effect of how it dries

If you can afford tung oil, I'd say go for it. In my opinion you get a better finish than linseed oil and it dries MUCH FASTER. That is assuming that you are comparing it to pure linseed oil rather than boiled linseed oil (which is toxic:barf:)
 
pure linseed oil can take up to 3 years to dry. (ask an artist)- the boiled stuff has some accelerants added, it's usually only a few days. I don't really see a huge advantage to tung oil.but have no argument with using it.

beeswax is something else to look at. I've done a few knives lately with a beeswax rub over the linseed oil and it's pretty sweet and is a very good natural preservative and water barrier.
 
It's lame. Seriously, I'm using this one to mess around with while I figure out what I want to do with the others. Though I do like hemp over 550, myself.

The reprofiled hammer really works a TON better.

tomahawk-1.jpg


tomahawk-3.jpg


tomahawk-4.jpg
 
koyote said:
I won't lie- there's PLENTY of garden tools in my yard that I just paint linseed oil on without taking the heads off.
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you dont need to remove the heads.....

get a old bucket and pour a 80% to 20% ratio of linseed oil and turpentine. The turp thins the oil and allows migration into the wood pores and cells. Mix enough to completely cover the head and put the tool(s) into the bucket.

hell thats how i store my tools during downtime....no rust and tight heads!
 
koyote said:
pure linseed oil can take up to 3 years to dry. (ask an artist)- the boiled stuff has some accelerants added, it's usually only a few days. I don't really see a huge advantage to tung oil.but have no argument with using it.

beeswax is something else to look at. I've done a few knives lately with a beeswax rub over the linseed oil and it's pretty sweet and is a very good natural preservative and water barrier.
Click to expand...

I'm using tung oil exclusively these days. I tried boiled linseed oil on some milsurp gun stocks, and I came to the conclusion that I preferred the look of tung oil because it doesn't darken the wood as much as BLO. Supposedly tung oil does a better job of sealing out moisture as well, but that's just what I've heard. However, linseed oil may have some advantage I'm not aware of.

I always cut the tung oil at least 50/50 with mineral spirits to penetrate the wood better, and this way it lasts longer.

For a finishing wax I'm using Butcher's paste wax, because I had it left over from another project. I put on at least 4 coats and then knock it down with 0000 steel wool. It's extra protection, which I like, but I noticed it does collect dirt over time. I might try mixing in extra beeswax sometime and see how that works. Thanks for the tip!
 
this is pretty much finished product, the small wrapping under the head has a sub wrapping of steel tripwire GI issue for re-inforcement, will add cable cynch and end stop with glow plug so lanyard can be adjusted.

hawk5jl3.jpg


hawk6cg0.jpg


hawk7fv1.jpg


hawk8gi7.jpg


hawk9gw9.jpg


hawk10yv3.jpg
 
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