Mod'ing The CS Trail Hawk

Thanks for this great thread. It inspired me to buy and modify my own hawk.





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I started with the Rifleman's hawk as i wanted a slightly larger head than the Trailhawk, for processing firewood. Out of the box it weighs 36.8 oz (1042 g). That's a bit much to carry in my daypack. I don't plan on throwing this hawk, but rather use it to make campfires along the trail, and for building shelters. I decided I'll never use the hammer head, so off it came.






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After an appointment with the hacksaw, and much reshaping time on the belt sander, I ended up with this. This is rough finished to 120 grit. I had to leave some pits, and deep scratches as I didn't want to remove that much metal. The plan was to hot caustic blue, so I finished it to 600 grit, and started to polish it on my buffing wheel. It looked horrendous, I almost threw up. The polish brought out all of the flaws, and some I hadn't even noticed. Hmm, now what? I left it for a day to think about it.






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Plan B. I went back to 400 grit, and then I glass bead blasted it. Yup, that hid the whoop de dos, and pits. Hey, I can even see the hamon line now. I was wondering up until this point if mine had one. I want to remove the head for storage in my pack, and also to have the option of making an emergency haft in the field if necessary, so I filled the set screw hole with a 3mm bolt, and then cut it off. I wish now I had welded the hole shut. It would have looked cleaner.






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45 minutes in the bluing tank, and here's what we have. That should provide a bit of corrosion resistance.






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I sanded and stained the haft, and drilled in a lanyard hole. Total weight now 30.5 oz (865 g). Next up, my first leather sheath project. My leather work skills are in the same league as Homer Simpson's birdhouse building skills, so it should be interesting.

BB
 
That's great looking, nice work. If I can help you out with some sheath building tips drop me a message.

Regards

Robin
 
That looks FANTASTIC beeperboy! I love the bead blasted look!

Now you just need to give it a good convexed edge to finish it off! :D
 
Ohh.. i like this a lot!

I was checking at all the weight of the CS hawks head versus blade edge size for max chopping power...

What is the new weight of a sawed-off hammer Rifleman now ?
 
Ohh.. i like this a lot!

I was checking at all the weight of the CS hawks head versus blade edge size for max chopping power...

What is the new weight of a sawed-off hammer Rifleman now ?

The modified head weighs 20.2 oz. It lost about 6 oz during the lobotomy.

BB
 
That looks FANTASTIC beeperboy! I love the bead blasted look!

Now you just need to give it a good convexed edge to finish it off! :D

Thanks. I have a fairly good slack belt edge on it now, and I'll convex it properly once I'm all done.

BB
 
Looking good! I'm thinking about bluing a head but dont see many examples out there.

I really like how it looks with the 3mm screw in the hole.
 
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So I'm halfway through my trail hawk project and hit a road block, I just spent the past 2 hours dragging this thing across a mouse pad with sand paper on top and it's no where near sharp. And by no where near I mean I could drag this thing across a balloon without any fear of popping it. Anybody got any tips?

I started with 220 grit moved to 320 and while it's very shiny and polished there is absolutely no edge, kind of frustrating
 
So I'm halfway through my trail hawk project and hit a road block, I just spent the past 2 hours dragging this thing across a mouse pad with sand paper on top and it's no where near sharp. And by no where near I mean I could drag this thing across a balloon without any fear of popping it. Anybody got any tips?

I started with 220 grit moved to 320 and while it's very shiny and polished there is absolutely no edge, kind of frustrating

Is this your first attempt at convexing? It takes a bit of practice to get it right.

Sounds like either your edge bevels are not fully coming together at the edge, or you may be using too much pressure which will result in a rounded off edge.

What works well for me is to start the reprofile with a file. Use it to round off the shoulder a bit and get the basic shape of your bevels started. Then hit the sandpaper. Also the higher the grit you work towards, the sharper it will be. I start with 220 and work all the way up to 2000, then strop using black then green compound.

The result is a nice looking edge that I can shave my face with.

Try looking at the very edge, where the bevels meet, under a good light. If you can see a sort of strip of light glinting off the very edge, than that is one sign that the two angles have not come together properly.

One helpfull trick is to use a magic marker on the edge then you will be better able to see exactly where/how you are removing metal from the edge. Also alot of people like to work until they form a "burr" on the edge, then use very light pressure to remove it, while working progressively through the higher grits.

Hope that helps a little.... It is frustrating at first, I know! ....not sure if I'm any good at explaining, but when you get it down you'll love it! :)
 
Sounds like either your edge bevels are not fully coming together at the edge

this was it, I finally took a file to it to bring the bevels together then ran through my various grit sandpapers all the way up to 1000 grit on a mousepad, the result was a very polished, very sharp edge that I actually ended up cutting myself with, thanks fore the tips
 
If it indeed is your first time leather work, then you are a NATURAL, if I ever saw one!

Excellent, very clean work!


Ookami
 
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