My Attempt to Skeletonize a 110

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You guys got me interested in a Buck 186 Titanium folder...but they're going for $200+ on eBay!!! :eek: So I decided to make my own...

Disclaimer! I am not a knifesmith, or knifemaker, or anything skilled. I'm just a poor sob with a hammer and a saw. I don't do these things for money or even compliments, just for my own gratification. (So feel free to criticize; I don't mind). There are several knifemakers/smiths on this Forum who can fabricate a project like this; they would be happy to accommodate you, I'm sure. ;)

I used a donor Buck 110 to get the blade, bushing, rockerbar, spring, and spacer. I decided to make my knife have a .062" brass liner and a .160" full-length skeletonized Titanium scale. I like the contrast of the gray and yellow metallic colors; and since I've never tried anything with Titanium, I figured "why not???" Brass came from my local Ace Hardware; the Titanium came from AKS.

First off was to rough cut the scales & liners. I used a "deep throat" Milwaukee power hacksaw on a special bracket that allowed it to be used like a band saw. I cut the brass liners first, and then, since the blade was pretty well used, I decided to see how the Ti cut. To my surprise, it cut pretty well, so I cut the Ti scales out with it as well. I also used one of the 110 liners for a drill guide and drilled the four pin/screw holes.



Next was to rough cut the finger grooves. Again, since I had a pretty good assortment of metal cutting holesaws, I tried a 1 1/4" to rough out the Ti finger grooves. It worked excellently, as long as I kept up a good spray of coolant [WD-40!] and gave it a heavy feed. I did the brass liners last. The holesaw still looks & feels as good as it did when I started.



Next, I pinned the 4 pieces together and started taking them down to size with a [bench] belt sander and 50 grit belts. I sanded one Ti scale down first (my "master"), then pinned the brass liners to it and took them down, then added the other Ti scale and took that down. The three outer sides are now still ~1/32" oversize, and the finger grooves are ~1/8" oversize. Still waiting for the 1 3/8" end mill to come in so I can mill the grooves to size.



Sanding the Ti is quite a show. Lots of bright white sparks, and a clean work bench is a must, because these sparks want to burn. Also, to cut down the time required to sand these scales to size, it's best to make your saw cuts as close to your outline as possible. Use new saw blades and new sander belts. They'll go dull pretty quick.

Finally, I got the right size end mill from Travers for the finger grooves [1 3/8"]. I fastened the two Ti scales and brass liners together and cut the finger grooves. This process convinced me that this would be the only Titanium project I would undertake. Ti is very "springy" and when you hit the end of a cut, the cutter takes off like it was rubber band powered! :mad: In any event, I got the finger grooves cut, and then plunge milled the "skeleton scale holes".



I also sanded the outer edges closer to final size. Just waiting for the stainless steel socket head cap screws now, then I can start assembly, fitting, and final sanding to shape.

I was able to find some SS SHCS's at Ace Hardware; no shoulder, but sufficient for trial assemble. I drilled the four screwholes for 65% thread depth, as suggested everywhere for Ti. I then counterbored the one scale for the heads of the screws. A trial assembly came next.



Looks rather weird to me. :rolleyes: It's much thicker than a 560, maybe more than a 110 even. Without chamfering the scale edges, it appears bigger than a 560 or 186, even though it's dead on.

I haven't broken any drills yet, although I did break one tap on the last hole. I managed to dull about five end mills. Wore out three 50 grit belts.

You're probably thinking this is a bear to close... :D The thumb cutout will come next.

I'd also like to ask your advice...How can I get an even chamfer all around the outer edges of the Titanium scales, like the 560/186??? I'm not skillful enough to do it by hand...and make it look good...
 
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I'd also like to add a big "Thank You!" to Leroy Remer, Chuck Bybee, ZZJake, Clydetz, jb4570, Vagrant, tr4252, and yam for their help! :D :thumbup: :cool:
 

pjsjr

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Trax,

That is excellent:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: (giving it an extra thumbs up).

I really like the look of the brass and Ti. together. Don't think it's a bear to close...more likely impossible:D good job. Preston

PS I do have a few questions???? but will hold off until you complete it.
 
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pjsjr said:
PS I do have a few questions???? but will hold off until you complete it.

Are projects like this ever really finished??? I've already decided I like the "as machined" finish, so blasting probably won't be done...buffing the butt and spine will be done, as will the groove edges and front bolster edge...but I'm planning on just leaving a sanded/brushed finish on the scale flats... :)

Ask away! :p
 
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Man, I can't help but think what a cool project it would be to do that to a Buck 446 Goliath, be a super one of a kind toy. Great progress Trax
 
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ZZJake said:
...what a cool project it would be to do that to a Buck 446 Goliath...

I've never seen one of those...do you have a pic somewhere???

As I mentioned, this is my first and only attempt in Titanium...but I do like Aluminum... :D

BTW: I'd seen the plastic blade holders in the eBay pics of 186's...now I know what they're for... :eek: :rolleyes: :grumpy:
 

pjsjr

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chickentrax said:
Are projects like this ever really finished???
Ask away! :p

No, and with your drive and desire in this area not likely:D.

1. With the SHSC on the one side, will the other side have a nut or cap, or will you leave it tapped and plug the other side?

2. What did you plan on for a pivot pin, rocker pin...will the blade and rocker ride on the threads of the screws?

3. Have you seen Greg B's Knifemaking Information?(links and tutorials on many different aspects of knifemaking).

Preston
 
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pjsjr said:
1. ...will the other side have a nut or cap, or will you leave it tapped and plug the other side?

It's tapped; I'll leave it open, and buff the end of the screw. I may spotface the hole...haven't decided yet...

2. ...will the blade and rocker ride on the threads of the screws?

No, it'll ride on the shoulder of the SS SHCS's (the ones on order still!)

3. Have you seen Greg B's Knifemaking Information?(links and tutorials on many different aspects of knifemaking).

Nope! Is it any good??? :confused:

I just kind of wander around Sears and if I see something that looks useful, I charge it... :eek: :rolleyes: :D
 
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Don't give up on the Ti Trax, it looks great. If you decide to do it again, think about anodizing. You could get some cool color combinations with the brass liners and colored Ti.
 
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chickentrax said:
I fastened the two Ti scales and brass liners together and cut the finger grooves. This process convinced me that this would be the only Titanium project I would undertake. Ti is very "springy" and when you hit the end of a cut, the cutter takes off like it was rubber band powered! :mad: In any event, I got the finger grooves cut, and then plunge milled the "skeleton scale holes"...
Wow...stuff like this makes me think I wasted a whole day going to Church and staying in to watch two LifeTime Channel movies. :jerkit: :eek: :jerkit:

I think the middle finger groove needs work...IMHO.

It's to cool for school El Pollo... :cool:
Goose.
1190
 
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I had a chance to get in a couple more hours work this morning...Cut the thumb relief(s); shortened the SS SHCS's to allow more sanding while assembled...



There are still a lot of scratches everywhere; I'm leaving the buffing to last...When it's buffed, the scanner won't show it too well; too much reflection...

Speaking of buffing, anyone know what rouge to use for Titanium??? I tried the white rouge on the spine; it polishes the brass excellently, but the Ti still has scratches & dull finish...

I think I'm going to cut the thumb relief(s) deeper; it's not quite deep enough for me... ;)
 
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Dude, looks knice, have ya thought about coloring the titanium with a torch?

I have an original 186 Ti model and I've alvays been tempted to color it using heat.
 
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Psychopomp said:
...If you decide to do it again, think about anodizing...

Psychopomp, do you do anodizing??? I have three Aluminum forgings that require anodizing...

But I would never anodize Titanium; anodizing is the process of depositing oxides on the surface of the metal to add a degree of surface hardness...the coloring is incidental (for Aluminum, you need to add Ritz dye to get it black/gray)...Titanium is hard enough without anodizing... :(

It's possible I may build an anodizing setup for my Aluiminum projects, but I'm not looking forward to it...and it certainly won't be soon...
 
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:thumbup: :thumbup: ...Fantastic job Trax...You just keep getting better... :thumbup: :thumbup:
 
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DarrylS said:
...You just keep getting better...

This is supposed to be a critique, DarrylS... ;)

I think I'm going to take the guts out of that homemade 110FG and some Aluminum and brass and make another of these...but thinner...

Maybe at the next gun show I'll put up a display..."Peabody's Improbable [Buck] History"... :rolleyes:

Edit: I went ahead and cut the thumb relief(s) 1/16" deeper...no scan...I think you can visualize those notches just being a bit deeper... :p
 
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