My Attempt to Skeletonize a 110

Are you going to chamfer the edges of the handle like we see on a factory 560? I think that will make it look nicer and will probably save your pockets too.
 
WilltheBarb said:
Are you going to chamfer the edges of the handle like we see on a factory 560?
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I would like to. I'm not skilled enough to do it freehand, like with a file. But I've had some success routing chamfers (or bevels, or whatever they're being called this week). I need to find (or <sigh> make) a ball-bearing 45* (or 60*) routing bit, with removable cutter. I may have to turn it over.

If anybody else knows a tool that will do this, I'm all ears. Maybe a cone-shaped diamond bit for a router??? With ball-bearing, of course... ;)
 
chickentrax,

That's very cool work, can't wait to see it all detailed and polished up.

ps You're very welcome.
 
chickentrax said:
Psychopomp, do you do anodizing??? I have three Aluminum forgings that require anodizing...
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I did it once. When I was in high school I took a very hands on physics class and we played around with some things like that.

I really want to try anodized Ti scales on a 501. So if I can find sheets of Ti thin enough, I may try it out again and see what I can come up with (and hopefully not turn my house into a flaming mound of rubble).
 
My SS SHCS's came today. I spent some time shortening them to fit flush and the shoulder to support the rockerbar/blade. Worked out quite well. I included a spare screw in the scan to illustrate how the threads don't touch the pivot areas [coff *Preston* coff]...



The one scan didn't show up well; not sure why. The Titanium doesn't want to sand evenly on my belt sander, I'll have to work on it by hand, I guess. :(

I was able to wrap some wet-or-dry sandpaper to a socket and spin it in my drill press, to sand down the finger grooves. Came out nice. :)

One interesting thing I noticed...The one brass liner that I quick-buffed reflects like a mirror...so if the knife is laying on its back, the reflections look like the holes go straight through the knife...like 5 portholes...It's weird... :D

Until I can figure out how to bevel the Titanium edges, I'm just going to buff the flat part of the edges and the brass flats and call the rest of the knife finished. I have another project started that I'll be working on every now & then. :thumbup:
 
ZZJake said:
Rich, if you have a stationary belt sander, rig a platen table to grind those bevels.
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I'm not sure what you're referring to, but I haven't figured out a way to grind/sand/cut *all* the edges [finger grooves, too] without getting an uneven bevel. I'm looking into using a router mounted upside-down in a router table with a 45* [or 60* if I can find one] cutter or grindstone chucked in the router. Small enough dia to fit inside the finger grooves (which my belt sander won't do).

I have a countersink which will bevel the holes.

I'm not in any hurry. ;)
 
hmmm, around the finger grooves try an appropiate sized drum sander in your drill press. clamp the Ti piece to the press table on angled stock, should work fine.
 
chickentrax said:
I'm not sure what you're referring to, but I haven't figured out a way to grind/sand/cut *all* the edges [finger grooves, too] without getting an uneven bevel. I'm looking into using a router mounted upside-down in a router table with a 45* [or 60* if I can find one] cutter or grindstone chucked in the router. Small enough dia to fit inside the finger grooves (which my belt sander won't do).

I have a countersink which will bevel the holes.

I'm not in any hurry. ;)
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Didn't I read somewhere that the four dot 110's were originally beveled by hand? Perhaps it's just a matter of developing the skill through practice.
 
Mike & ZZJake - Thanks for your suggestions! I can remove stock with a variety of tools...but not uniformly, and not easily...

The best idea so far is to use a ball-bearing router bit with 45* cutter, mounted in such a way that I can pass the scale under the cutter and have it shave off .030"...

Grainger's has such a cutter...

4AFF2.JPG


ROUTER BIT,1/4 IN
Carbide Tipped Chamfer Router Bit, Angle 45 Degrees, Shank Diameter 1/4 Inch, Carbide Length 3/4 Inches, Overall Length 2 1/8 Inches

If I flip the cutter over on it's shaft, I think it'll work...but I'd wear two heavy jackets, leather gloves, glasses & a face shield, and maybe a helmet... :eek:
 
chickentrax said:
My SS SHCS's came today. I spent some time shortening them to fit flush and the shoulder to support the rockerbar/blade. Worked out quite well. I included a spare screw in the scan to illustrate how the threads don't touch the pivot areas [coff *Preston* coff]...
Click to expand...

Thank You, Trax that's looking good...are the SHSC going to remain outside the body of the knife? I have a good reason to ask...I'll shoot an e-mail and explain, if it's alright by you. Preston
 
chickentrax said:
Mike & ZZJake - Thanks for your suggestions! I can remove stock with a variety of tools...but not uniformly, and not easily...

The best idea so far is to use a ball-bearing router bit with 45* cutter, mounted in such a way that I can pass the scale under the cutter and have it shave off .030"...

Grainger's has such a cutter...

If I flip the cutter over on it's shaft, I think it'll work...but I'd wear two heavy jackets, leather gloves, glasses & a face shield, and maybe a helmet... :eek:
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Rich,
Have you considered a 1/8" round bit instead of the 45* cutter? I would think it would provide you with a smoother edge.
 
Preston - The heads of the screws are recessed .050"; I can't go too much further because the Ti is only .160" thick...I don't mind screw heads sticking up... ;)

Mike - I'd need to use a cutter that will work with the ball-bearing shaft. It's the bearing that keeps the cutter at a fixed distance from the work. A rounded or even indented-square corner would be OK...

Since it's only about .030" that I'll be taking off, I think it will work...The problem is holding on to it... :rolleyes:
 
chickentrax said:
Preston - The heads of the screws are recessed .050"; I can't go too much further because the Ti is only .160" thick...I don't mind screw heads sticking up... ;)

Mike - I'd need to use a cutter that will work with the ball-bearing shaft. It's the bearing that keeps the cutter at a fixed distance from the work. A rounded or even indented-square corner would be OK...

Since it's only about .030" that I'll be taking off, I think it will work...The problem is holding on to it... :rolleyes:
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Funny, I have a 1/8" round router bit that uses a bearing. I thought all round over bits worked with them. :confused:
 
Darryl - yes, a stationary router, mounted to a table. Yes, I'm insane. :rolleyes:

Mike - Do you have a pic??? The only ball-bearing router bits my local stores have is for Formica finishing, but they're not angled or round...just flat for counter top edges.
 
That sure is turning into a sweet-looking knife, Trax. Have Mr. Houser or Mr. Buck approached you, to purchase the design...? ;)

GeoThorn
 
geothorn said:
Have Mr. Houser or Mr. Buck approached you, to purchase the design...? ;)
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Do you mean have their lawyers served me with papers charging patent infringement, copyright violations, and fraud??? ;)

No, not yet. :rolleyes:
 
chickentrax said:
Do you mean have their lawyers served me with papers charging patent infringement, copyright violations, and fraud??? ;)

No, not yet. :rolleyes:
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I think that if it were going to come to that, as moderators of this forum, they could've stopped you on your first post. :)

GeoThorn
 
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