My first attempt

First off, welcome to the game! Regarding "flat" bevels, it takes time and experience. I also know, you don't want to hear that...at least I didn't! You will soon find out through practice that the idea of the steel being flat and the platen being flat do not automatically mean a flat bevel :) There are many ways to come off the flats in process. Even pressure, focusing on full flat contact with the abrasive, and keeping your eye on the bevel often are your best friends.

The encouraging part: I have seen many of these types of posts. You are off to a great start. I am certain that you will learn a LOT from choosing this file method to start and learn. It will make you a much better craftsman for when you dive in to a new grinder! I started on a 1x30, but wish I had started with just a filing jig. I think it is the best first method to see what is really going on.
 
Thesian said:
First off, welcome to the game! Regarding "flat" bevels, it takes time and experience. I also know, you don't want to hear that...at least I didn't! You will soon find out through practice that the idea of the steel being flat and the platen being flat do not automatically mean a flat bevel :) There are many ways to come off the flats in process. Even pressure, focusing on full flat contact with the abrasive, and keeping your eye on the bevel often are your best friends.

The encouraging part: I have seen many of these types of posts. You are off to a great start. I am certain that you will learn a LOT from choosing this file method to start and learn. It will make you a much better craftsman for when you dive in to a new grinder! I started on a 1x30, but wish I had started with just a filing jig. I think it is the best first method to see what is really going on.
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Thank you! I’m really enjoying it so far! Now I’m trying to figure out a way to get this wiggle out of the blade lol
 
LogisticsGuy said:
Great first work man! I too use the Gough type file jig to great success. I love that its a deliberate process and you can ease into your shapes. I end up doing my rough bevel filing with the aggressive double cut file. Then, when I'm getting thin enough and my angles are still set on the jig, move over to a single cut file to smooth it out. Then move over to draw filing with a single cut.


Thanks! Do you still use the jig when you’re draw filing or is that best done free hand to keep the file perpendicular to the blade?
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Both really, I'll draw file in the jig and the freehand if I feel I can make it bite in well.
 
LogisticsGuy said:
I’ll look it up now. Was wondering what was causing some of those lines to be crooked. I’ll give it a shot! And 10-4 on drilling before HT!

Any tips for trying to fix that wave? I was thinking of trying to clamp it between something flat after getting it up to heat.
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You push to hard on file and while you doing that you raise one edge of file and that part of file remove more steel and in different angle then when file is flat towards bevel ............Don t use force when you use file , let the file do the job ..
One more thing , when you file other side , support blade under so it can not flex while you are filing
 
Ok so here’s where we’re at. I’m still using the jig but have switched from a 10” bastard file to an 8” smooth file and started draw filing. From what I can tell it’s exposing how many high spots I really had in the blade. Looks like it is having its intended result but my blade is getting ( in my inexperienced opinion) way too thin.

I’m assuming my only option at this point is to shallow my angel and sacrifice the little bit of flat material I was hoping to leave above the bevel. But I think this would help salvage what’s left of my edge.

What do you guys think?
 

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Natlek said:
You push to hard on file and while you doing that you raise one edge of file and that part of file remove more steel and in different angle then when file is flat towards bevel ............Don t use force when you use file , let the file do the job ..
One more thing , when you file other side , support blade under so it can not flex while you are filing
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Awesome advice, thank you!
 
LogisticsGuy said:
Ok so here’s where we’re at. I’m still using the jig but have switched from a 10” bastard file to an 8” smooth file and started draw filing. From what I can tell it’s exposing how many high spots I really had in the blade. Looks like it is having its intended result but my blade is getting ( in my inexperienced opinion) way too thin.

I’m assuming my only option at this point is to shallow my angel and sacrifice the little bit of flat material I was hoping to leave above the bevel. But I think this would help salvage what’s left of my edge.

What do you guys think?
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Go all the way to the top if you have to. Also your overall height might be less IF you need to move your edge a smidge as well.

*whatever it takes to remove those grind marks.
Even though I love your blade shape, I'd prob massage the belly up a hair to give you a nice clean edge to work from, free of those grind marks.
They look pretty deep? I'm guessing by the time they get removed, your profile will be slightly different anyhow....

There is a saying..............There are no mistakes, just smaller knives.
 
LogisticsGuy said:
Ok so here’s where we’re at. I’m still using the jig but have switched from a 10” bastard file to an 8” smooth file and started draw filing. From what I can tell it’s exposing how many high spots I really had in the blade. Looks like it is having its intended result but my blade is getting ( in my inexperienced opinion) way too thin.

I’m assuming my only option at this point is to shallow my angel and sacrifice the little bit of flat material I was hoping to leave above the bevel. But I think this would help salvage what’s left of my edge.

What do you guys think?
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Leave flats , you will remove little steel from edge side .
HBPaRY2.jpg
 
I'm new too, and I've learned that knifemakers do not make mistakes, just shorter and/or thinner knives. You are doing great. Don't let the frustrations of your first attempts discourage you, but rather allow them to inspire you to suck a little less at each attempt. I think you'll find that you will develop quickly with that approach, and it looks like you have a good foundation of basic skills and positive attitude to launch yourself into making the knives you want to make pretty quickly!
 
You are probably doing yourself a favor and don't know it yet.
Nearly every first knife made with no one helping/guiding is too thick, too fat handled, and the blade height way too tall. By taking it to a FFG and thinning the edge area down, you will have to grind it back to shape as Natlek showed. This is how I do most knives. I only roughly profile the edge and once I have ground in the distal taper and FFG I bring the edge back to a nice even line and edge thickness of around .050". From there is is just more sanding until it is flat, smooth, and at 400 grit. My final edge thickness ends up around .030".
Don't worry about the blade height. As I say regularly, it is the edge that cuts. The rest is for the show. Even when you are done filing it back your blade will still be much wider than I make a hunter. I make them between .75" and 1" wide at the ricasso. As for thickness, it is a rare hunter that is more than .10" thick at the spine at the handle. I use .07" most of the time except for ones that will break down a carcass and then I go to .10".

I think you are going to be really proud of your knife when done.

So lets talk handles. What are you planning on using? I would like to send you a really nice set of stabilized curly maple scales for you knife.

Also, just a tip, but if you drill the holes in the handle right after profiling you can use them to screw the blade to the work board. Even if you decide to put the pins in a different spot the two mounting holes won't be a problem.
 
Nice first go at it. I'm likely not alone saying much better than my first! (or 2nd, 3rd ...) I got a lot better fast after finding BF too. thanks BF! One thing I heard early was drill your pinholes before grinding bevels. It hurts less when the helicopter takes off! It might break a hand bone but you'll keep your fingers. I didn't catch your experience level with machine tools but there's a pretty important shop safety thread in the stickies somewhere.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
You are probably doing yourself a favor and don't know it yet.
Nearly every first knife made with no one helping/guiding is too thick, too fat handled, and the blade height way too tall. By taking it to a FFG and thinning the edge area down, you will have to grind it back to shape as Natlek showed. This is how I do most knives. I only roughly profile the edge and once I have ground in the distal taper and FFG I bring the edge back to a nice even line and edge thickness of around .050". From there is is just more sanding until it is flat, smooth, and at 400 grit. My final edge thickness ends up around .030".
Don't worry about the blade height. As I say regularly, it is the edge that cuts. The rest is for the show. Even when you are done filing it back your blade will still be much wider than I make a hunter. I make them between .75" and 1" wide at the ricasso. As for thickness, it is a rare hunter that is more than .10" thick at the spine at the handle. I use .07" most of the time except for ones that will break down a carcass and then I go to .10".

I think you are going to be really proud of your knife when done.

So lets talk handles. What are you planning on using? I would like to send you a really nice set of stabilized curly maple scales for you knife.

Also, just a tip, but if you drill the holes in the handle right after profiling you can use them to screw the blade to the work board. Even if you decide to put the pins in a different spot the two mounting holes won't be a problem.
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Curly maple is beautiful! How much would you like for them? I’m told brass is easy to work with as a pin material but I almost think black would be a nice contrast? Making the handle is the part that has me the most worried lol.

I just got done draw filing one side and currently the blade is at .12” at the top and .017” at the edge. That being said I still have to draw file the other side and I do plan on removing some material as Natlek recommend. I’m assuming the best way to do this will be to remove it from the jig and horizontally hand file it? I want to make sure the blade keeps as of the “belly” as possible as I find it helpful when field dressing/ skinning. The blade is currently 1.26” tall which I’m not as concerned about so long as I can get a good thumb on it when the blade is sideways.

I also managed to screw up the tip so that will have to get fixed tomorrow.

Here’s the side I just finished:144837A3-C9F8-4DFF-A3AE-675A55FC4E39.jpeg
 
John Cahoon said:
Nice first go at it. I'm likely not alone saying much better than my first! (or 2nd, 3rd ...) I got a lot better fast after finding BF too. thanks BF! One thing I heard early was drill your pinholes before grinding bevels. It hurts less when the helicopter takes off! It might break a hand bone but you'll keep your fingers. I didn't catch your experience level with machine tools but there's a pretty important shop safety thread in the stickies somewhere.
Click to expand...
I’m a tinkerer at best but have handled quite a few power tools. Never hurts to have a refresher though!

The pin holes is a good tip even though I’m doing this knife with hand tools primarily!

I agree, BF is awesome!
 
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