My INFI is sharp

David Brown said:
Again I do not want to offend anyone, I just;

1. want to understand the reasoning behind being so vocal about it ?
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Why? Because Busse's are high-end expensive knives. When I buy one new (4 so far) I expect nothing else than a RAZOR sharp edge on them. Call me crazy.
My SAR4 was reasonably sharp but not nearly as sharp as it is now. My Key Lardo was downright blunt, and I wrote Amy-0 about it. My Tankbuster came with a pretty good edge on it, and considering it's a heavy use knife, I didn't need much more (but still touched it up so it could shave, which it couldn't before). My SY SS5LE had a nice edge on it, felt no need to do anything about that one.

If a $20 Kershaw or Byrd can pop hair, I'd expect nothing less from a $600 Busse. There's no reason why it wouldn't. I think it's negligent to send out a 4" or 5" utility/EDC knife with anything less than a razor's edge on it.
Call me vocal for saying that out loud.
 
MustardMan said:
I care, but not enough to stop me from buying them. I'm gonna have to sharpen a knife one way or the other eventually, but it is nice to be able to get a blade and actually use it right away without putting a lot of work into it.

That said, where else can I get INFI, and where else can I get the Busse warranty and customer service? If that means I have to get the occasional dull knife, then I'll get the occasional dull knife.... I'll piss and moan about it, but I'm not sending it back.
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Totally agree with this. I think I'm entitled to as sharp a knife as is possible and logical (a hard use knife does not need a razor edge, it's probably even counterproductive), but woodcraft/utility knives do need a good edge. But if my Busse does not come with that egde, I'll let them know, and hope they do better next time. I won't stop me buying my next one. ;)
 
I was about to post "What do you expect from blade as thick as a 2x4?"

But then I thought about my BBB (Big Busse Blades). My Mistresses, AK, Waki, thick FSHs, and my now complete set of PBFs are hair shaving sharp from the shop.

I AM drinkin!!! Coffee;)
 
I agree with philwar, Busse knives should come razor sharp. Busse knives are Top-End knives. Not everyone can properly sharpen a knife if the knife comes with a fair edge on it.
All of my Busse knives, 4, could shave hair. :)
 
sharp on a combat knife is a sliding scale, with strength on one end and geometric acuteness on the other. you either get strength or you get slicing ability, you can't have the best of both.

some busse's have more of one than the other, some busse's have a whole lot more of one than the other.

can you -really- tell me that the NARK had sharp geometry? ya, you could shave hair with it, but if you tried to cut an apple or a potato you'd get a quarter of the way through it and it would would break apart because of the wedging effect.

I'm only vocal when the topic comes up and someone claims that every busse ever made is a scalpel. they are not.
 
MustardMan said:
I'm gonna have to sharpen a knife one way or the other eventually
Busse is the reason I bought a belt sander. I used to be satisfied sharpening my knives with a mousepad and sandpaper, but I had to do so much reprofiling that I had to upgrade my techniques.
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Are there any good instructional knife sharpening videos out there, as MustardMan said I'm going to have to sharpen my knives eventually as well as learning which edge geometry works best with each knife. I would even pay a few extra dollars for a DVD on sharpening knives when ordering from the factory.
 
I have around 50 and most are very sharp from factory, some kinda sharp, and a few just plain dull.

It doesn't bother me one bit though if I get a dull one. If I plan to make it a user I just sharpen it...thats simple enough. If anyone is on this site and can't sharpen a knife I suggest they learn how. All knives will dull with use, and you must know how to sharpen.
 
Yea, I have seen many picts on this forum of people cutting themself by accident, and although I don't take pictures, I do cut myself with them also, very sharp. Some more then others.
 
I have received two that were not very sharp. FBMLE and CGASH1. The rest were very very sharp.

Really to me it was a blessing. It was the reason I really learned to sharpen a knife. Could not be happier with the end result.

With that said, I absolutley believe that people have every right to want a sharp knife. I really think Busse wants their customers to be more than satisfied.
 
Pass CDN said:
Are there any good instructional knife sharpening videos out there...
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Murray Carter, who is a master at sharpening, has two DVD's on sharpening. If you've ever handled one of his blades, you know how crazy sharp a knife can get.
http://www.cartercutlery.com/murray-carters-blade-sharpening-dvds

... as MustardMan said I'm going to have to sharpen my knives eventually as well as learning which edge geometry works best with each knife.
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IMHO it is as important, if not moreso, to learn which geometry and edge type works best for each job, rather than for each knife, unless you've dedicated a given knife to a certain job.

A couple examples where different chores call for different geometry and edge type:

Cutting tomatoes works best IME with an extremely acute toothy edge and a very thin, typically tall (2.5"-3"+ spine to edge) Japanese blade with very hard cutting edge (60+ RC). Very thin = 1/16" or, preferably, less spine thickness. The toothy edge "tears" through the smooth outer tomato skin well and is still polished enough to part the soft flesh underneath readily. The tall blade keeps the cut straight. With very short (spine to edge) blades I often find the cut wandering side-to-side, leaving a wavy kerf edge on the tomato slice.

OTOH, chopping green wood while doing yard work I prefer Bussekin geometries. Thick 0.25" or more spine thickness and relatively thick shoulders behind a polished edge. The polished edge shears wood fibers well. The more-obtuse (vs Japanese thin knives) bevel angles serves to wedge out and clear the wood chips from the cut.

So, to reiterate, learn which geometries and edge types work well *for you* doing the different jobs that you use your knives to accomplish. That way, you have a target to aim at as you learn to sharpen your knives.

Happy sharpening! :)
 
David Brown said:
1. want to understand the reasoning behind being so vocal about it ?
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its a forum, its for people to talk about a common subject. seriously if someone believed their blade wasn't all that sharp out of the box where should they talk about it if not here?

3. All, and I do mean all of mine ( and over 9 years that has been a few hundred) have been plenty sharp right from Busse.
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"plenty" is a very relative word. It leaves alot of room for personal interpritation.

Jerry is a great man & even more so one of my great friends.
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this is the part that made me aprehensive about repsponding to this post, you are implying by its location in this thread, that speaking out about an edge out of the box, and jerry's character are somehow one in the same.


I only mentioned (and i'm not even sure if i left it posted the way i originally worded it) If the first half inch of my blade wasn't so god awefully impressive, and i do mean sharp like i have never seen before the rest of the blade wouldn't have seemed so OK in nature. I do appreciate the fact that there was a difference because the first 1/2" did tell me where par was set, and so i had some work to do with the rest of it.

There should be some true shame attached to the idea someone purchased a combat blade and sent it back to anyone elde for an edge much less the manufacturer. Something i would not concider, and yet you imply that it might be normal or just accpetable to you. just an observation.
 
All of mine have been pretty sharp when I received them. Any of them could have been made sharper, but they were decent enough. Good user edges for a hard-use knife.

When I got my Scrapper 5, it still had a bit of a wire edge along about 1.5" of the blade, so I had to hone that off; but once I did that it was good to go.
 
This might be hard to understand, but not everything made for cutting is supposed to be "razor sharp".

As far as the "for as expensive as these knives are" argument goes. Sort of like the Century vs. Arsenal argument. Well, I could buy a Century with a 30 round mag, or I could buy an Arsenal with a 5 round mag. Saying my $20 Kersaw came razor sharp is like saying my $550 Century came with a 30 round mag. Fine, enjoy.
 
rover said:
This might be hard to understand, but not everything made for cutting is supposed to be "razor sharp".
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:rolleyes:

My FSH came with a good working edge for a big chopper. It chops well, removes large chips, can make fuzz sticks, and is an obtuse enough angle to be sturdy when chopping.


My NMSFNO, another 8" camp style knife, came so dull it was a terrible chopper, could not make decent fuzz sticks, and took a LOT of effort to baton through logs.


Two very similar hard use knives, with very similar purposes, and WILDLY varying edge quality. This isn't some distinction between the type of edge that's most suited for a knife - it's poor quality control.





The excuses crack me up - it's not the end of the world if I get a knife that's not as sharp as it should be, but to act like it's intentional or designed that way is ridiculous. These knives should be sharpened consistently, and properly, and that definitely does NOT always happen, although it seems to be less of an issue recently than it was six months ago.
 
rover said:
This might be hard to understand, but not everything made for cutting is supposed to be "razor sharp".

Why not? How could a knife benefit from being duller? As long as the edge geometry is appropriate to the task the knife only becomes more effective with increased sharpness.
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