My new Manix, review and observations

Wow, here's to more knife joy in 07.

Yeah it depends on what you want the knife to do. All steels are optimal for something that is why they exist.

To him it will always be a razor blade steel no matter what you do with it.

Yeah as that is what is actually is, just like S7 is a shock steel. Now you can package S7 as a fillet blade steel if you want but it is all nonsense unless you want to try to actually rewrite the metallurgy of shock steels or try to explain why you think a fillet blade needs the impact toughness of a sledge hammer.

I don't buy into propoganda and don't regard salesmen as unbiased sources of information. I need actual facts and logic. Fact, 13C26 is optomized for edge stability. Fact, this is irrelevant in thick edges. Fact, 13C26 has a low wear resistance compared to high carbide steels. Fact, wear resistance is critical in thick edges.

More actual facts, 13C26 can get 67 HRC after cold with optimal hardening with a 1080C austenization. That allows it to compete with ZDP-189 in regards to hardness and it is MUCH CHEAPER. It also has much better edge stability (MUCH) and corrosion resistance and toughness. But yet you are satisfied because it is as good as 55/57 HRC 440A. Again, the steel is being so undervalued it is absurd.

Like I said, if you want a tough steel at < 60 HRC then use 12C27M/12C27 and it will be tougher, more corrosion resistant and cheaper. This is why those steels exist.

-Cliff
 
More actual facts, 13C26 can get 67 HRC after cold with optimal hardening with a 1080C austenization. That allows it to compete with ZDP-189 in regards to hardness and it is MUCH CHEAPER. It also has much better edge stability (MUCH) and corrosion resistance and toughness.

WOW! Did I read that right? Is it still cheaper with that heat treatment? Has anyone had or used a knife blade in 13C that hard? We are still talking about useing the steel for knives and not razors, right?
 
WOW! Did I read that right? Is it still cheaper with that heat treatment?

Your reading was correct. Now pretend anyone but Cliff said it so that you may evaluate the statement on its own merits or shortcomings. Roman Landes has demonstrated that AEB-L; 13C26's doppleganger; can reach that hardness, but works better as a knife steel (and by knife, I mean blade with edge of about 20 included degrees) slightly softer - a buttery RC64. Most every martensitic stainless steel needs cryogenic processing and multiple tempering cycles and the complexity of the heat-treatment tends to increase with amount of alloying, so the steel which costs less to produce and cut will tend to cost less after a similar or simpler heat-treatment.
 
So no one is or has used it as a knife steel that hard I'd guess from your post. Landes says that 13c works best at 64 RC for a knife hardness and 10 degrees per side? At that angle are the carbides a factore? I'll defer to the cost of heat treatment to you you seem to know more about it than I do. Thanks
Edited to ad..
Is 13C26 a type I steel then?
 
Hey Thom, the Manix is in the mail, along with a G-10 Cara Cara. Thanks for the help, and feel free to test them out for a while if you have the time and inclination and post your impressions. Straighten me out where I'm wrong about this knife!
 
For those who want to see the chips and the culprit:

Edit to add: the chips further down the blade and the large ones near the tip were all caused by the same twist tie, the former when I tested to see if a straight through cut without lateral force on the edge would prevent chipping as seen in the tip. Not in this case, but the chipping is much smaller than the tip. As posted previously it also chipped VG-10 in a thicker edge (the VG-10 looked like the smaller chipping in the Manix) and AUS 6 in a much thicker edge (badly rolled edge with huge chip), so I think I deserve a good amount of the blame on this one.



Here is the little bugger that caused the problem, a twist tie with a thick .032" metal core, AKA the Chipmaster 2000. Why do they make it so damn hard to get kid's toys out of their packages these days?:

 
Now, for the pain. If you are squeamish, tough, it's too late! Really though, they aren't that bad. The stitches come out tomorrow. The thumb was hit first, and it is hard to tell but it cut lengthwise almost all the way through to the top of my nail, and sliced my finger tip in two right through the meat like it wasn't there. Very clean cut. Very tightly wrapped gauze bandages and sutures healed that. The other finger is self explanitory, again split through the nail and the meat, just lucky that I didn't hit bone, or just go through at a different angle and launch my fingertips across the room. This one wasn't as clean of a cut as the Native had already gone through a package and my thumb, so it was losing steam by this point. As it was, they were gaping, gushing, offset wounds that were pretty ugly until you used a lot of pressure with the gauze wraps to line them up right, and then sewed them in place. Repeat after me; "No being a dumbass with very sharp knives".





 
Roman Landes has demonstrated that AEB-L; 13C26's doppleganger;

Note all steels have a bunch of similar clones as every manufacturer gives them their own name, that specific type of steel (stainless razor) has a number of variants all of the same class of hardness/carbide strucutre. This is how you have to look at steels as I noted some time ago in how to classify stainless specifically - according to their structure with class segregations based on properties (this is why there are classes of tool steels obviously). Johnston has been preaching that for *years* on rec.knives for the exact same principles as Landes; hardness and fine carbides. Forget about the names, look at the structure and properties. Have you used one steel which is very hard and has a fine carbide structure - yes - then you know how another steel with the same properties will behave because those properties are what control the performance.

Most every martensitic stainless steel needs cryogenic processing and multiple tempering cycles and the complexity of the heat-treatment tends to increase with amount of alloying, so the steel which costs less to produce and cut will tend to cost less after a similar or simpler heat-treatment.

This like most topics gets polluted on Bladeforums with nonsensical distractions and sales pitches. Landes treatment for 13C26 is based on general principles of metallurgy to minimize carbide precipitation and retained austenite. These are PUBLISHED resources, not vague references to conversations with "experts". The reason that you would go as far in that steel to really maximize it is because it is a niche steel which is completely optomized and thus you can use it as an ultimate benchmark. Steels like CPM154 are not so designed, they are not overly good at anything and are just general purpose steels so really trying to maximize edge stability is pointless as it is low anyway. But of course you would still oil quench, use cold, etc., if it was available and Buck/Case have been using cold on stainless for years.

Just consider gunmike's commentary on the U2 which is much more coarse than 13C26, and still that blade is ran harder and far more acute than Kershaw's 13C26. There is no way you can argue SPGS is even close to the edge stability of 13C26 and the greater carbide volume makes it far more brittle and thus 13C26 can obviously made harder and ground thinner and retain the same level of toughness and will thus have far greater edge stability and initial cutting ability. A comparison to ZDP-189 is even more ridiculus but yet that is 65 HRC with no durability complaints and that is glass brittle compared to 13C26. At times I really wish Swaim had not left rec.knives and I could convice Johnston to post here to cut additional swaths through the hype.

But anyway, as I noted before, Kershaw's absurd use of 13C26 is academic to me now because I have optimal 13C26 blades coming, F2 blades in progress and of course 1095/M2 on standby. If you can guess the starting sharpness values and intersection points Thom I'll give you a custom of your choice by Landes, and you can't be cute and give 100% CI values. They are pretty sweet, fancy one :

BlueIce4.jpg


Working blade :

SantokuHochoWolken.jpg


Or if you are so inclined, how about a L6-bainite parang, salt pots are on standby.

As it was, they were gaping, gushing, offset wounds that were pretty ugly until you used a lot of pressure with the gauze wraps to line them up right, and then sewed them in place.

At least now when someone asks you why you carry a knife you have a visual aid.

-Cliff
 
GunMike did you try cutting the same twist tie with the thin U2? I think it would be interesting to see if it would also take damage at 62 rc and 4 degrees per side. Same with your Jess Horn. Another question since the U2 seems to work well at 4 degrees is it a type I steel? Is the Jess Horn steel also a type I steel?
 
Ouch. Those will be good "character" scars... You should go to a manicurist when you are all said and done just to watch her reaction...
 
I find all of this very interesting. I more and more have to wonder if it has much of an effect on real world knives and knife-edges. At what angles/thinness is the carbide tear out myth seen? How strong is the bond between carbides and the matrix and the other carbides? How much does it take to tear them out? Is the hardness of the matrix effect the bond of the carbides? Is the hardness of the matrix a larger factor than the carbides on thin edges? Does carbide size have more of an effect than carbide amount? It seems there is a lot of conflicting info about the carbide tear out myth and stable edges and sharpness.
 
Wire, even copper when it's bigger than like 20 ga., can be hell on knife edges. I'm sure it's due to lateral stress right at the apex, which is very hard to control unless you're deliberately cutting the wire held securely on a solid surface and carefully applying force straight down.

Re finger cuts .... I spent a summer working security at an upscale resort when I was younger, and I couldn't believe the cuts like that (and worse) the chefs, cooks and especially dishwashers were getting all the time. I don't think they were being careless or clumsy, just constant handling of blades leads to cuts. Damn thing was the way they hated to be bothered with getting stitches or even properly bandaged up with serious cuts like that. Guess if you do it often enough, it gets so it's no big deal .... but I hope none of us ever gets to that point. :)
 
GunMike did you try cutting the same twist tie with the thin U2? I think it would be interesting to see if it would also take damage at 62 rc and 4 degrees per side. Same with your Jess Horn. Another question since the U2 seems to work well at 4 degrees is it a type I steel? Is the Jess Horn steel also a type I steel?

Ultra thin edges aren't exactly what I picture as being the optimal tool profile for metal that thick. Obviously my Manix, an Endura, and a thick AUS 6 CRKT weren't either. I said earlier wire cutters are more ideal, and dog nail clippers were suggested as more ideal tools for that. I mentioned earlier that the U2 works great for paring, food work, cardboard, and most any light EDC task I have thrown at it. It obviously won't do well with very heavy duty cuts, especially twisting ones. It is basically a keychain size knife, being very small, light and thin. Is that the type of knife you use for cutting thick metal? As for other thoughts on the U2, I think when I perused the original thread when Cliff was getting it thinned out, that he was thinking there was a possibility the edge would just crumble like on his mini Sebenza (I know many others in that thread did, and they didn't use the most PC terms either). It hasn't, and has performed very well. That doesn't mean it is the optimal steel for that application, just like how Kershaw gets positive feedback on their thick Storm's in 13C26. Just because it works well for the application doesn't mean it is ideal for the application, or even close to it. I think it was beaten to death a few times why other steels would be more ideal for that application (and that steel for the U2's application), again let's let that go.

I think the bigger story with the U2, my Native, and the extremely thinned out ZDP knives, not to mention the many knives being carried for HD work at 10 degrees per side or less is that the cutlery world's view on how thick and obtuse an angle is required for a knife edge is out of whack. As Cliff likes to say, a knife should be held to a higher standard than an axe when it comes to geometry. Spyderco is one of the few companies I have bought knives from that gives you a consistently thin and acute edge (not to mention sharp). The thickest edge I have got from them was my Endura which I described earlier, and I have had several well under 15 degrees (while still a little thick for my tastes, it beats a 25 per side edge at .035" on a similar knife that can be commonly found at your local store). Too bad more manufacturers aren't consistently coming out with edges like that, they cut good, sharpen easy, and take me less time to really thin out if I want to. I guess old "truths" die hard, as I still hear the guy behind the counter at one knife shop telling people you need 30 degrees per side so you have enough steel behing the edge to support it, otherwise your edge retention would suffer. It's funny how the opposite is true, but I wonder how many newbies hear that and take it as gospel? It would be great to never hear that nonsense again.
 
Wire, even copper when it's bigger than like 20 ga., can be hell on knife edges. I'm sure it's due to lateral stress right at the apex, which is very hard to control unless you're deliberately cutting the wire held securely on a solid surface and carefully applying force straight down.

Yeah, I still held the twist tie in one hand, looped it around the knives, and then cut, so there was definately some lateral stressing going onto the edges. When cutting braided speaker wire that was flat on the table there were no chipping issues at all with the Manix, so technique is very important.
 
Ouch. Those will be good "character" scars... You should go to a manicurist when you are all said and done just to watch her reaction...

Good idea! I just hope my thumbnail is still on my finger at that point, as it is definately showing it's separation now.
 
Well, I typically don&#8217;t like to cut thick metal but like I said earlier in this thread I did cut the same type of twist tie with a very thin all hard M2 blade that I had made. Alvin J uses very thin and hard blades to cut metal so some do use thin hard knives for that. I think there are probably many more people who even use cheap razor blades for the same type of things, but that is my guess. All wire cutters really are is 2 knives with thick edges and hinged together. So really for Joe Blow knife user that guy behind the knife counter is probably correct with his advice. Even a non newbe like yourself used a knife that you admit wasn&#8217;t an optimal use for a knife and better done with a clippers. Non-knife nuts and even some of us knife nuts do all kinds of crazy things, like testing edges. I just thought since you seemed to be testing how other knives would handle the twist tie maybe the thin hard one would have also been interesting. Sorry for suggesting it.
 
Well, I typically don’t like to cut thick metal but like I said earlier in this thread I did cut the same type of twist tie with a very thin all hard M2 blade that I had made. Alvin J uses very thin and hard blades to cut metal so some do use thin hard knives for that. I think there are probably many more people who even use cheap razor blades for the same type of things, but that is my guess. All wire cutters really are is 2 knives with thick edges and hinged together. So really for Joe Blow knife user that guy behind the knife counter is probably correct with his advice. Even a non newbe like yourself used a knife that you admit wasn’t an optimal use for a knife and better done with a clippers. Non-knife nuts and even some of us knife nuts do all kinds of crazy things, like testing edges. I just thought since you seemed to be testing how other knives would handle the twist tie maybe the thin hard one would have also been interesting. Sorry for suggesting it.

Note #1, this thread was started about a Manix that I (my wife, but the money comes from the same place) bought with my hard earned money, it wasn't donated to me with no strings attached to test. I make a decent living, but my wife stays home with my daughter and we live in a high cost of living area. We are able to get by fine, but I don't have a huge amount of disposable income and a sponsorship for my knife hobby. As such, I set out to post some testing results and impressions of my new knife. Chips and scratches and some wear and tear on the knife don't bother me, but I am not going to be doing a lot of the more interesting things you will see in some of Cliff's reviews, or espescially NOSS's reviews. In the toolshed section, I started a thread when I thinned out my Jess Horn, and in the title it says "inspired by Cliff". I was confident that my Jess Horn's performance would improve and the knife would work, as I had seen Cliff's work. That emboldened me to go radical with my thinning of that blade, and I am now starting to get similarly brave with many of my other blades. However, I am new to the knife game, and not as brave and adventurous a soul as most of you yet when it comes to hardcore using and modifying of my knives.

Next, the U2 isn't even my knife. There is a big difference between testing your own tools and equipment that you paid for and doing it to someone else's, especially if it isn't within the scope of work I pictured it for. Cliff didn't ship it off and say "the U2 is great for cutting through metal that chips much thicker and larger knives, you should really try that out with it". Maybe I should start batonning and chopping with it, too. Remind me never to lend you a knife, db! I think we can all agree that a custom knife run all hard by Alvin in a more optimal steel is a lot different than this U2. Also, db, since you are much more experienced than me you should know that on a knife with a very thin and high hollow grind like the U2 a chip like my Manix's tip got would put a large serration into the blade, way up into the primary grind. Your last sentence, comparing testing out my Endura with a thicker grind than the Manix and my AUS 6A CRKT with a way thicker grind than the Endura as references on the chipping (much cheaper knives to start with, and I was almost positive that the chipping level would be easily sharpened out over time, especially if you are going to reprofile, anyway, if the chips were to be like the chips were on the Manix) to using the Jess Horn and U2 as chipping benchmarks, with thier much thinner blades and grinds is pretty apples and oranges. If you want to sponsor me, I have no problem doing the tests, but as I said the U2 isn't mine, and the whole money thing with how much I spent on my Jess Horn make me hesitant to do it.

Of course there are many more people that use a disposable, $.25c razor blade for that type of work as their extremely cheap price leads people beat the piss out of them without thought to damaging them. Again, that whole cheap and disposable thing. A guy I work with who cuts copper locating wire when he installs plastic gas services uses his folding razor blade for those uses, not his Spyderco Military that is in his waistband. Could the price be a factor? As he said "Why chip out my $120 knife when I can just destroy the company's razor blades to do the job?". The razor blades chip like hell (I mean BIG chips) and aren't ideal for the job, but at such a cheap cost who cares? OK, now, using WIRE CUTTERS to cut metal WIRE seems like the same thing as using someone else's extremely thin precision knife to cut metal wire, also, doesn't it? And yes, it is basically 2 knives that work together to cut, but their name pretty much defines their use, WIRE CUTTERS. As for my cutting the wire in the first place, if I knew the wire in the twist tie was .032" thick I would have used a little more care, and probably used my wire cutters. As is obvious with my finger cuts, sometimes I do things you shouldn't do with a knife. If you want your knives at 30 per side because you want to constantly cut thick metal, knock yourself out. I will try to focus more on proper technique and scope of work with my knives and their more cutting focused geometries, as I find that a better, more logical way to go about my business than go with 30 degree per side edges. Again, I am new to the knife hobby, so I may not be making much sense, here. I say do what ever the hell you want with your own knives. I am not a rich man, so I wasn't intentionally looking to chip out the knife and I am not doing a destruction test, but I did find a limit to what that knife at that geometry can handle before significant chipping occurs (and how a few other, cheaper, and thicker blades in my collection chipped with a similar task). That type of damage will sharpen out eventually, especially since I planned on reprofiling it anyway. Maybe NOSS can buy a Manix and do a destruction test on it to make you happy, I know I would enjoy watching it! He also seems to have the money to buy the piece and destroy it. I actually quite enjoy that testing and see that you can learn from it, I just can't afford to do it.

Either way, when I get my sharpening back in order maybe I will test my Jess Horn on the wire. I didn't thin it out with the thought of cutting thick metal, as I fancy it a precision cutter the holds a very good edge for light EDC duty, but maybe I will try it. I paid my hard earned money for it, so to do this on basically a taunt might be stupid, but what the hell, maybe I'll live a little! I guess worst case I will have a new serration, as the chip would be DEEP. If I do it, I will lay the wire flat on a cutting board and try to cut straight through it, with no lateral motion on the edge. I paid for it, and it wasn't lent to me, and it is harder than the U2, and the edge is a lot thicker, so maybe I can get it sharp enough and the technique right and not massively chip it. I probably won't get optimal results, but I may surprise myself. We'll see how I feel about after I get my stiches out this evening.
 
Are you really asking me to finance your knife hobby? I have no interest in sponsoring you or your knife hobby. I&#8217;ve already said I was sorry for suggesting you test the U2 in the same way you were testing the others. I thought that Cliff had sent you those 2 knives to use and test without any restrictions. Do what ever you want with what ever you want. I just made a suggestion that was all. I don&#8217;t assume a harder thinner steel will take more damage than a thicker softer one will doing the same thing. I also don&#8217;t claim to have any more experience or know any more than anyone else. Guess I should have quit posting in your thread a long time ago or just not at all. I'm done .
 
Ok, dumb this down a little, Cliff, is 13C26 in effect a better steel for the applications of said knives,(heat treat notwithstanding), from the 440A that Kershaw was using or not?
 
Are you really asking me to finance your knife hobby? I have no interest in sponsoring you or your knife hobby.

Are you sure? For $900/year, less than $3/day, you can help a young Californian use his time in manners that distress his family while providing us with hours of online entertainment.

Without these knives, people are apt to play in raw sewerage. Without new knives. Can't you help?
 
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