New Company looking for feedback on up and coming products!

[SURVIVE!]

My name is Guy and I am the owner of a small company named SURVIVE!. http://www.survive-gear.com In about a month I will be releasing a limited run of my first three original knife designs. Before then though, I am looking for some feedback on my designs since up until now not many have had a chance to look at them. People I know say they look great but I'm looking for some feedback from people who don't personally know me and who might be a bit more objective. lol. If you would like to get a better look at any of the three models, please check out my YouTube channel:http://http://www.youtube.com/user/surviveguy I have short solidworks videos posted there with 360 degree viewing. The quality, fit and finish will be something between Bark River and Chris Reeve.
I have three up and coming models: The first is the GSO-4 Bushcraft Knife. This is my iteration of an ideal bushcraft knife, meant for lots of hard use. It has a blade length of just over 4", a blade height of 1.5" and an overall length of just over 8.5". The blade thickness is .215, with a full flat grind.



The second model is the GSO-5 Survival Knife. This knife has a blade length of 5.25", a blade height of 1.5", a thickness of .215" and an overall length of 10.25". The blade tang under the handle slabs is skeletonized to reduce the weight and improve balance, with the balance point being right over the index finger.



The third model I will be offering is the GSO-6 Combat Knife. It features a 6" blade, blade height of 1.5", a thickness of .215" and an overall length of 11". It has a more pronounced point than the GSO-5, no choil or thumbrest and has a slightly more generous finger grip area. The tang under the handle area is also skeletonized to improve balance, with it's balance point also right over the index finger. I am also tossing around the idea of adding a swedge grind(false edge) to the back of the blade and would love some thoughts on that. I am calling this a combat knife but it would also make a nice camping and dare I say bushcraft knife for the person who just enjoys having a large but not bulky blade with them.





I will be offering all three designs in CPM 3V with an aim hardness of 58-59 and am considering offering them in CPM S35VN with an aim hardness of 59-60 as well. I am planning on a stone washed finish on the majority of the first run. I do not prefer coating a blade but a few will be powder coated. On the coated models, the working surfaces of the blade will be ground clean. I know heat treatment for these steels is especially important. I am having Peters Heat Treat handle the heat treating to ensure everything is done just right.
G-10 is the standard handle material but if people overwhelmingly prefer something else as well, I would consider it. The handle slabs will be precision cnc machined and fully contoured.
All three models will come complete with an ambidextrous MOLLE compatible kydex sheath.
I tried to cover all the aspects of what is coming down the line here soon but I'm sure I forgot something. I would love some feedback on the designs or heck, any aspect of the project that you might have some opinions on. Your Opinions Matter!!!

 

[BOBO]

Hello, your knives look like good designs. I would change the butt of the handle, no skull breaker, just flat. I would use a exposed tang for light hammering or scraping and without it being pointed, I would also be able to "palm" the knife during other chores. Maybe offer the flat or pointed end as a option. And I very much like 3V steel. Good luck.

 

[SURVIVE!]

Ok, so more of a nice rounded end instead of the pointed breaker or a truly flat end? I think I have an idea what you mean. I'll come up with something that will still go well with the designs and will suit that need. I'll be sure to add that as an option. The more I think about it, not having the breaker pommel will give a lot more function to the knives for most users. Thanks so much for the feedback. I'm already glad I signed up here.

 

[michaelm466]

GSO-4: I would say take out the second finger notch to allow for a larger variation in grips. I would also make the blade not quite so wide, IMO this makes the blade easier turn/maneuver in/over wood (imagine trying to carve out a U shape in a peice of wood, the spine will hit much shallower if the blade is wider) so maybe 1"- 1.25ish blade height. While I like thick blades I would reduce the thickness on this one to allow better cutting ability, especially since 3V is an option you could make this 3/16" - 1/8", it will slide through wood better, yet in 3V it will be as strong as .3"+ blade in most other steels. This would be good in either steel equally IMO.

GS0-5 Like the design a lot, the only thing I'd change is taking out the choil, I don't feel its quite long/large enough to really need a choil yet. This one I would keep the thickness .2-.23, I really like your handle design, and I actually do like the pointed pomel on this one as well. 3V preferred over S35VN

GS0-6 I like it, wouldn't change anything about it. I'd definitely prefer this one in 3V over S35VN.

As for handle material, I do like G-10, though also take a look at Canvas, linen, or paper Micarta, just as strong and grippy, and might be a bit cheaper (not sure really) but if so might make the knives a bit more affordable= more sales, with no strength or quality loss. As for coating, maybe offer S35VN uncoated and 3V coated? though I'm sure lots of people would like the 3V uncoated too, maybe make it an option, but if its an all or nothing thing I'd say no coating, bark river, fehrman both offer 3V uncoated and i've never heard any major rust complaints about there knives.

 

[cramsey3006]

Definitely go with a flat on an extended pommel. In the outdoors, it's going to be used to hammer or pound stuff.

I like the design of the GSO-4 bushcraft knife, but I know that many others would prefer a thinner steel stock, probably .187 or or a bit less. With a full flat grind, the .215 would probably work well enough though. I really like WIDE blades, so it appeals to me on that front. On a smaller blade like that, I like a handle that allows a variety of grips with no hot spots. I'm wondering how that finger groove will feel with different grips? I do like that on a knife, in general, it makes the knife feel locked in hand when using a saber or hammer grip. My problem is small hands, the grooves sometimes feel a bit off on most knives. I like the rear of the grip to flare out a bit, it feels more secure to me.

The GSO-5 and GSO-6 both look about perfect to me, for their intended roles. Are they going to be .215" thick and flat grinds too? If the grinds are going to be as high as they look in the pictures, I think putting a swedge on the GSO-6 is going to make the point too thin for hard use. If you want to put a swedge on it, lower your grind line a bit to keep strength in the point. I would go with a flat pommel area on those too, just for better utility. :thumbup:

I like micarta better than G10. The g10 knives I have feel too smooth after some wear knocks the texturing off a bit. Micarta feels better to my hand as it wears. It gets smooth as well, but it still feels like a better grip to me. I still like a good hard rubber for knife grips too. Lots of custom makers use horse stall mats and cut slabs from them for grips.

 

[SURVIVE!]

WOW! That's a lot of good feedback. This first batch is going to be more of a sample run so I might try a few of your suggestions. Both the GSO-5 and 6 will have a thickness of .215". I might grab up some thinner 3V for the bushcraft knife and give that a try.
I will have a few samples of each style coated in both steel types. I know some out there like less maintenance while others like the tacticool factor of coatings. lol. Thanks so much for the excellent feedback.

 

[SURVIVE!]

Yes, I will definately keep the profile of the GSO-4 the way it is. I too enjoy a taller blade. I may try the 3/16" thickness though. All of the edge radius will be very smooth so hot spots should not be a problem. I only put one finger slot in the bushcraft knife to allow for a secure grip as well as fit a wide variety of hands. I mean, most of use have to at least have an index finger in common right? lol While the profile of the bushcraft knife is pretty well broomstick style, if you watch my video closely, the handle slabs do flare out a little as they progress back to the pommel.
I am seeing a trend already though with the pommel so I will have to make a flattened pommel version of the 5 and 6 for sure. I may have to take a poll.
Man, I am loving this feedback! You guys(and maybe girls) are great! Thanks.

 

[glockman99]

WOW! That's a lot of good feedback. This first batch is going to be more of a sample run so I might try a few of your suggestions. Both the GSO-5 and 6 will have a thickness of .215". I might grab up some thinner 3V for the bushcraft knife and give that a try.
I will have a few samples of each style coated in both steel types. I know some out there like less maintenance while others like the tacticool factor of coatings. lol. Thanks so much for the excellent feedback.

If you want to send a GSO-6 to me to test, feel-free (as long as you wouldn't plan on getting it back ).

Dann Fassnacht
708 North L Street Apt. 2
Aberdeen, WA 98520

 

[brets-ftw]

I might also suggest you try a passaround i believe there is a section somewhere here on the forums for that. having a knife in hand and seeing a picture are completely different and while you may get the general shape on paper, in hand and doing work will give you infinitely more information from your customer base (for fine tuning that is)

(for the passaround)
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/783-Knife-amp-Gadget-Pass-Around-Forum

GSO4 - I like the design but like what has been said before thin out the blade a little. Im a little worried about using an FFG grind on something i might baton with but, if it work, it works.

GSO5 - I hate using a small surface area for pounding in stakes, and the idea of possibly missing and hitting the handle material. so i would prefer a full metal pommel, similar to the Ka-Bar but instead of a disk, make it tear dropped, rectangular, just something to keep it more stream line

GSo6 - keep it as is

 

[harkamus]

I second 3v. I wouldn't mind seeing a 1095, 52100, 5160 or A2 blade either. s35vn is gonna be a pain to sharpen in the field.

 

[SURVIVE!]

If you want to send a GSO-6 to me to test, feel-free (as long as you wouldn't plan on getting it back ).

Dann Fassnacht
708 North L Street Apt. 2
Aberdeen, WA 98520

Maybe if you write for a knife magazine. lol

 

[SURVIVE!]

I might also suggest you try a passaround i believe there is a section somewhere here on the forums for that. having a knife in hand and seeing a picture are completely different and while you may get the general shape on paper, in hand and doing work will give you infinitely more information from your customer base (for fine tuning that is)

(for the passaround)
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/forumdisplay.php/783-Knife-amp-Gadget-Pass-Around-Forum

GSO4 - I like the design but like what has been said before thin out the blade a little. Im a little worried about using an FFG grind on something i might baton with but, if it work, it works.

GSO5 - I hate using a small surface area for pounding in stakes, and the idea of possibly missing and hitting the handle material. so i would prefer a full metal pommel, similar to the Ka-Bar but instead of a disk, make it tear dropped, rectangular, just something to keep it more stream line

GSo6 - keep it as is

A knife with my styling and a pommel more similar to a Ka-Bar is in the works and will be a future offering. I just have limited resources and three models as a first offering is about as much as I can swing without some sort of financial backing. I know exactly what you mean about having a nice pommel to beat stuff down with though. I promise it will be coming.
I will have a few passarounds in the near future. I posted this more to bounce the designs off anyone willing to comment to see what most people would like to see before I pull the trigger on the first run. Then I can start a new thread where we dissect them too. Seriously though, thank you so much for your thoughts as well as the passaround link.

 

[SURVIVE!]

I second 3v. I wouldn't mind seeing a 1095, 52100, 5160 or A2 blade either. s35vn is gonna be a pain to sharpen in the field.

I was trying to offer a stainless option for users who live in rust prone areas. Do you think the 3V has enough corrosion resistance if cared for that I should perhaps scrap the 35VN and maybe just do 3V and A2? Anyone else have any thoughts on this? A2 would certainly widen my target market and make things more affordable.(I mean, wow cpms35vn is some expensive stuff) Ultimately I want to make things the way most people want them, have them be affordable and be a great value for the dollar. I know I'll never make everyone happy but I sure want to try.

 

[harkamus]

Do you think the 3V has enough corrosion resistance if cared for that I should perhaps scrap the 35VN and maybe just do 3V and A2? Anyone else have any thoughts on this? A2 would certainly widen my target market.

3v is said to be almost stainless because it has 8% chromium. When it does stain it tends to pit more than actually stain, which should not be a problem if the knife is cared for properly. With that said, I'm willing to bet that most people here on bladeforums that use larger knives prefer 3v over 35vn. For toughness, 3v is unmatched. It's also quite fine grained actually. A2 is also great. Not quite as stainless as d2, though it's tougher.

EDIT: Of course if the user doesn't ever intend to chop with the knife, by all means, go for 35vn. You won't need that super toughness 3v has. 3v's toughness comes from its impact resistance.

Just keep 35vn as an option. I would like to think people buying knives that cost more than 100 bucks tend to know a tiny bit about blade steel. For whatever the task at hand, certain steels just function better. You can always drop the 35vn option if you find most buyers gravitate towards 3v or other tool steels should you offer them.

For a survival knife, I just think the pros of 3v outweigh the pros of 35vn.

 

[SURVIVE!]

3v is said to be almost stainless because it has 8% chromium. When it does stain it tends to pit more than actually stain, which should not be a problem if the knife is cared for properly. With that said, I'm willing to bet that most people here on bladeforums that use larger knives prefer 3v over 35vn. For toughness, 3v is unmatched. It's also quite fine grained actually. A2 is also great. Not quite as stainless as d2, though it's tougher.

EDIT: Of course if the user doesn't ever intend to chop with the knife, by all means, go for 35vn. You won't need that super toughness 3v has. 3v's toughness comes from its impact resistance.

Just keep 35vn as an option. I would like to think people buying knives that cost more than 100 bucks tend to know a tiny bit about blade steel. For whatever the task at hand, certain steels just function better. You can always drop the 35vn option if you find most buyers gravitate towards 3v or other tool steels should you offer them.

For a survival knife, I just think the pros of 3v outweigh the pros of 35vn.

Yeah, I knew early on in my designing that CPM 3V HAD to be a steel in my line up. I want to think and actually hope that people chop, baton, stab, edge pry and make improvised spears with my tools.

 

[Nebulae]

nice choice on the materials I really like the 3V, and s35v G10 is good too. I would make them thinner myself (especially the 3V). And the finger notches (and I agree with cramsey3006 1 finger notch max) look a little small, but I'm not sure about the scaling so it could very well be just fine.

 

[Steel130]

I like the looks of the knives.

GSO 4- I wouldn't mind seeing it a little thinner like maybe 3/16" but the thicker stock is ok as well.

GSO-5- Round out the butt as others have said make it so that pounding something other than someones skull is possible .

GSO-6- Perhaps do a Sabre grind model of it? And Perhaps just a small gap in between the blade and handle to make sharpening on a bench stone easier? Other wise I like the looks.

Handles look comfy based on looks.

As far as coated blades go they really arn't my favorite thing. For one there are going to wear off eventually and I like to look at the steel that makes my knife.

A couple things to think about if you add a sharpened swedge to the top of the knife. 1. This can I believe make it illegal for people to carry in some states " a doubled edged weapon". Also it seems some people dont like a swedge because it will eat up a baton when batoning through wood. You could however do a smaller run with swedges like Esee does if the purpose is more towards LE or Military personal. Just curious do you have any kind of price ideas for the blades?

 

[SURVIVE!]

nice choice on the materials I really like the 3V, and s35v G10 is good too. I would make them thinner myself (especially the 3V). And the finger notches (and I agree with cramsey3006 1 finger notch max) look a little small, but I'm not sure about the scaling so it could very well be just fine.

Thanks a lot. The finger notches are a 15/16" radius and the models with two finger notches have them placed 1" apart, center to center. Would you like to see the bushcraft knife thinner or all models?

 

[SURVIVE!]

I like the looks of the knives.

GSO 4- I wouldn't mind seeing it a little thinner like maybe 3/16" but the thicker stock is ok as well.

GSO-5- Round out the butt as others have said make it so that pounding something other than someones skull is possible .

GSO-6- Perhaps do a Sabre grind model of it? And Perhaps just a small gap in between the blade and handle to make sharpening on a bench stone easier? Other wise I like the looks.

Handles look comfy based on looks.

As far as coated blades go they really arn't my favorite thing. For one there are going to wear off eventually and I like to look at the steel that makes my knife.

A couple things to think about if you add a sharpened swedge to the top of the knife. 1. This can I believe make it illegal for people to carry in some states " a doubled edged weapon". Also it seems some people dont like a swedge because it will eat up a baton when batoning through wood. You could however do a smaller run with swedges like Esee does if the purpose is more towards LE or Military personal. Just curious do you have any kind of price ideas for the blades?

Haha! I'm so glad I signed up for this forum before just pulling the trigger on manufacture. On the day to day a more flattish pommel makes so much more sense.

Also, I will certainly look at trimming the bushcraft knife down to 3/16". My line of thought with the thicker blade and full flat grind was "tiny batoning axe" that still cuts well.

The GSO-6 has a 1/4" radius between the blade and handle. Are you saying you would prefer to see MORE of a gap?

I should have clarified about the swedge grind. It was a false edge I toying around with. Just to help increase the penetration potential of the tip. I would not want it so thin along the spine that it would shred up a batoning stick.
It's still too early for me to give a definite retail but I am shooting for low $200ish in the 3V and even lower if I end up doing A2 as an option. These will be of the highest quality. In line with Bark River and Chris Reeve but with different styling.

 

[Steel130]

Haha! I'm so glad I signed up for this forum before just pulling the trigger on manufacture. On the day to day a more flattish pommel makes so much more sense.

Also, I will certainly look at trimming the bushcraft knife down to 3/16". My line of thought with the thicker blade and full flat grind was "tiny batoning axe" that still cuts well.

The GSO-6 has a 1/4" radius between the blade and handle. Are you saying you would prefer to see MORE of a gap?

I should have clarified about the swedge grind. It was a false edge I toying around with. Just to help increase the penetration potential of the tip. I would not want it so thin along the spine that it would shred up a batoning stick.
It's still too early for me to give a definite retail but I am shooting for low $200ish in the 3V and even lower if I end up doing A2 as an option. These will be of the highest quality. In line with Bark River and Chris Reeve but with different styling.

I looked at the MSO 6 wrongly I think a 1/4" gap would more than suffice and create a small choil as well.
For the GSO 4 a thick blade doesn't bother me at all as I am used to Scrapyard knives which are generally a very thick blade.
The designs and ideas you have are nice and have piqued my interest. I would be a highly potential buyer funds permitting .