New Company looking for feedback on up and coming products!

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My only input is some that was already given.

On the GSO 5 ditch the choil, and the second finger groove.

configure the pommel so that it can be struck with a baton if needed.

A2 is a fine steel. Though I would prefer 3V.

Let me know when these become available.
 
I suggest putting either the 5 or 6" on hold and releasing something in the 8-10" range. Five and six inch knives and likely four and five will have a large amount of overlap for potential buyers. An 8-10" range will feed into a different market. The 5 design scared up would be the bees knees. The number of readily available 10" blades of good quality is pretty small. Of those, production models are mostly limited to 1095 or similar. A sub $250-300 v3 10" would be very attractive.
 
I suggest putting either the 5 or 6" on hold and releasing something in the 8-10" range. Five and six inch knives and likely four and five will have a large amount of overlap for potential buyers. An 8-10" range will feed into a different market. The 5 design scared up would be the bees knees. The number of readily available 10" blades of good quality is pretty small. Of those, production models are mostly limited to 1095 or similar. A sub $250-300 v3 10" would be very attractive.
So you are looking for a chopper? What would be your main purpose for the 8"-10" blade? Or you just want a longer knife? I have a design with roughly a 10" blade still in the works but it's not near finished. It doesn't look "right" to me yet and I need to stare at it a good while longer. ;) Once I get some exposure and feedback from these, it will be coming. You are the first to mention a bigger knife. I'm glad it's on someone's mind.
Ps. Scared up a bit? lol.
 
I suggest you diminish a little bit the radius of the "peaks" between the finger grooves (sorry for my bad english, I'm french). Such a big radius "looks" more confortable, but in reality, it will prevent your fingers from touching one another, and it will dig into the sides of your fingers and hurt after some time.
 
What I meant was something like this:
gso5sidemod2.jpg


Oh, and I am not sure I would get rid of the choil for the GSO5, as it responds nicely to the depression on top of the blade, for a comfortable closer grip. If you were to ditch the choil, ditch the upper depression as well.

And I agree with the others about suppressing the second finger groove (as NOT shown in my picture, which is only to illustrate the point I mentionned earlier).
 
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What I meant was something like this:
gso5sidemod2.jpg


Oh, and I am not sure I would get rid of the choil for the GSO5, as it responds nicely to the depression on top of the blade, for a comfortable closer grip. If you were to ditch the choil, ditch the upper depression as well.

And I agree with the others about suppressing the second finger groove (as NOT shown in my picture, which is only to illustrate the point I mentionned earlier).
The second finger notch is only half as high as the first. I've actually made a full sized model of the knife and the finger grooves really only act to improve the grip. They are well spaced and don't inhibit your grip at all. Your fingers can still touch each other and the handle is really very comfortable. The only thing I can say is to wait for some reviews once the knives come out before deciding to perhaps give one of my models a try. I have no plans to ditch the choil on the GSO-5. I may in the future offer it without the choil but for now I have the GSO-6 for people who prefer to not have a choil. And yes, the depression does work very well with the choil. ;)
 
I think that a tad thicker on the MSO 6 would not be a bad idea maybe going up to a .22 makes it a little bit tougher for harder use prying and such. Get rid of the finger grooves as well. A knife should be locked in via its ergos not by finger grooves that will inevitably not fit someones hand. Reason I dont own a glock their finger grooves do not fit my gorilla hands. A lanyard hole near the front gaurd would also be nice so put a D-gaurd on like a busse, bit it also lets you strap it to a stick easier to make an improvised spear. When you finish the design a passaround would be a cool way to get the knives name out there.
 
I think that a tad thicker on the MSO 6 would not be a bad idea maybe going up to a .22 makes it a little bit tougher for harder use prying and such. Get rid of the finger grooves as well. A knife should be locked in via its ergos not by finger grooves that will inevitably not fit someones hand. Reason I dont own a glock their finger grooves do not fit my gorilla hands. A lanyard hole near the front gaurd would also be nice so put a D-gaurd on like a busse, bit it also lets you strap it to a stick easier to make an improvised spear. When you finish the design a passaround would be a cool way to get the knives name out there.
Wow, been a while since I have gotten a comment on this thread. Thanks. ;) Some guys around me hounded me forever to get rid of those finger grooves as well, during my original designing. Then I made a mock up and they took their words back. These first knives are designed to fit a small to medium/thick hand. These designs WILL NOT, let me repeat, WILL NOT fit everyone's hand. I will have some XL models down the road for people with bigger meat hooks. A 'one size fits all' approach is exactly what I am trying to get away from. I have put a ton of hours into the spacing, depth and placement of the finger grooves. Please don't immediately write them off. In time I will have a model for darned near everyone.
As far as the guard, that darned Busse went and patented that configuration. The GSO-4,5 and 6 are being water jet cut this week. Some pass-arounds are going to happen for sure. Well, if I have any left out of this first run that aren't immediately purchased. ;) By the second run for sure. As soon as my GSO-10 machete is finished I'll be out making videos, chopping down the entire forest around me.
 
i like them all

5 best

you could lose the second choil ....

also push the thumb ramp fwd a lil ? and the one on the blade further still .


lookin goood
 
for bushcrafter ?
- narrower blade
- lower the tip (to keep more of an overall straight line )
paperstone handle ? (kinda smooth , no good for larger models )

love the belly on all models
 
for bushcrafter ?
- narrower blade
- lower the tip (to keep more of an overall straight line )
paperstone handle ? (kinda smooth , no good for larger models )

love the belly on all models
Interesting idea using paperstone. I'll look more into it. I also like your thoughts on some other things. Thanks for your thoughts. It's much appreciated.
 
Make some in less expensive steel not everyone has $200 to $300 to spend on a knife.
Roger that! I'm thinking of doing sort of a "build your own" type of preorder in the future, offering a base option upon which you can build. Giving the end user choices in steel types, handle materials, sheath colors, and finishes. This would also give people a chance to get a good knife on a budget. My ultimate goal is to make people happy so I'll do anything within reason to make that happen. You are right, a less expensive steel certainly should be an option.
 
Roger that! I'm thinking of doing sort of a "build your own" type of preorder in the future, offering a base option upon which you can build. Giving the end user choices in steel types, handle materials, sheath colors, and finishes. This would also give people a chance to get a good knife on a budget. My ultimate goal is to make people happy so I'll do anything within reason to make that happen. You are right, a less expensive steel certainly should be an option.

Wow, that would really be an awesome idea. i think your designs are gorgeous and will definitely be ordering from you once you get started. Cheers!

P.S. Oh yeah, for the GSO 6, a squared pommel would be appreciated over the skullbreaker. The jimped square pommels on Ranger knives are the best I've ever seen.
 
Wow, that would really be an awesome idea. i think your designs are gorgeous and will definitely be ordering from you once you get started. Cheers!

P.S. Oh yeah, for the GSO 6, a squared pommel would be appreciated over the skullbreaker. The jimped square pommels on Ranger knives are the best I've ever seen.
Thanks so much! When things really get rolling, I'll try to give as many options as possible.
 
Are you going to make a 10"field machete listed on your website? And would it be 3/16" thick of 3V? You could even go down to 1/8" 3V. That would be an awesome combination.. tough and light
 
Are you going to make a 10"field machete listed on your website? And would it be 3/16" thick of 3V? You could even go down to 1/8" 3V. That would be an awesome combination.. tough and light
Yep. It's going to feature a 10 1/2" long by 2 1/8" tall blade. It were to entertain making a thinner model, it would most likely be a little longer so it would still have a little heft for chopping. I can try it out though and test it.
 
THEY`RE A few beauties for sure< i aint complainin but i like the option for a thinner blade shape say like a knives of alaska alpha wolf< but thicker width wise
 
THEY`RE A few beauties for sure< i aint complainin but i like the option for a thinner blade shape say like a knives of alaska alpha wolf< but thicker width wise
Well, with any luck people will like my designs and I'll be able to expand my offerings in the coming months. My samples of the first three designs should be finished right now but I hit a bump at the bevel grinder. I don't have half a million to invest in a Berger BG-2 so I guess I'll just be happy I don't have to wait longer. lol. I will have the solidworks designs done for my chopper by the end of the week. In the mean time though I have posted my original pencil drawings for both my 7.25" knife and 10.5" chopper on my website. They're no solidworks model but should give a good idea of the outline in great detail. I also wrote some info about them. As always, I love feedback and thoughts. www.survive-gear.com
 
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