Newbie collaboration knife?

Nice grind. I hope my little contribution looks that good when ground. You may have noticed that I left plenty of meat so you can grind away my mistakes and still have enough for a knife..lol.:D The original billet was as wide as the finished product was intended to be, so I stomped it down about 1/4 on the press......so much for "only having to forge out the tang, Mr. Deker:p I left PLENTY of room on the ricasso for the file work....maybe too much.:eek: I was looking at the remaining piece that we were talking about using for the cap. it is about 2 inches long, but it looks like it was the end that was in the vice when the billet was twisted because about of it still seems to have just straight layers. Any thoughts about how I might mess with the piece to maybe fancy it up a bit for the hawk cap? I bought a bottle of borax/boric acid/flurospar "super flux" at Batsons and haven't used it yet:D
 
jdm61 said:
You may have noticed that I left plenty of meat so you can grind away my mistakes and still have enough for a knife..lol.:D
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Hello Joe, Your knife will be a pleasure to grind. It's very clean and forged well. Don't know what mistakes you are talking about as the knife you mailed me is beautiful. I should get to the grinding on it this coming Saturday. Will post pics when complete. My goal is to send both knives to the next maker in the process with in the next 7 days.

Scott, your forged knife was done very well and made my job easy. Who will be the next person in the process to receive these knives? What is their role? I cannot seem to find the original list of steps and makers you sent out last year.

Thanks to Deker and all that have touched these knives so far. Looking forward to passing them on to the next maker in the process...

Eric
 
efleming said:
Hello Joe, Your knife will be a pleasure to grind. It's very clean and forged well. Don't know what mistakes you are talking about as the knife you mailed me is beautiful. I should get to the grinding on it this coming Saturday. Will post pics when complete. My goal is to send both knives to the next maker in the process with in the next 7 days.

Scott, your forged knife was done very well and made my job easy. Who will be the next person in the process to receive these knives? What is their role? I cannot seem to find the original list of steps and makers you sent out last year.

Thanks to Deker and all that have touched these knives so far. Looking forward to passing them on to the next maker in the process...

Eric
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Both of them need to go to Jared Stenoien for the choil work. Email me at scottickesknives@gmail.com, and I'll respond with his contact information.
 
Right on! Glad to see we're moving again! Everything so far is looking good from here. :thumbup:

-d
 
Well could not wait until Saturday to start the next knife. Here are a few pics of the progress...

Grind of initial flats...

KPicB001.jpg


Start of flat grind...

KPicB002.jpg


Grinding setup using a round bar rest...

KPicB003.jpg


Checking progress...

KPicB004.jpg


Kinda cool. You can see the Damascus pattern in this pic...

KPicB005.jpg


Ready for clip to be filed and hand sanding...

KPicB006.jpg


Stay tuned. Hope to ship both knives to Jared Stenoien some time next week.

Eric
 
Outstanding work. ARe you sure that's the blade I sent you?:D Once you get those knives out the door, you are going to have to give us some more details on some of that very interesting looking grinding and filing gear that you have come up with.:thumbup:
 
Well ended up taking the morning off work to finish the knives... :cool:

Here the angle is being set on the file station prior to filing clip...

KPicB007.jpg


Clip in progress...

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Switching paper from 320 to 400 grit...

KPicB009.jpg


After sanding to 400 grit...

KPicB010.jpg


Both knives ready for Jared Stenoien to do the fancy Chol work...

KPicB011.jpg


Now the crux of the deal... packaging them up and getting to the post office. Should be able to do that on Saturday. :D

Eric
 
Just out of curiosity, where am I supposed slide the guards up to? The shoulders look too far back on the ricasso....
 
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TekSec said:
Just out of curiosity, where am supposed slide the guards up to? The shoulders look too far back on the ricasso....
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Bad news, my friend......you or someone else has to cut them to length. I left the ricasso and tang long and unfinished so there would be plenty of material left to play with. Eric.........you think that fancy filing station could handle that if the next guys on the list aren't comfortable doing that?:thumbup:
 
I'm more worried that we do it before HT...at least most of the way. Grinding and filing after would be a b***h! :)
 
TekSec said:
I'm more worried that we do it before HT...at least most of the way. Grinding and filing after would be a b***h! :)
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Thats easy.........don't harden that area. Tpically, I harden either the plunge line or the shoulder. That way, if I have to tweek the shoulders, it is easier and also, I don't have as much of a stress riser issue and I don't have to drill the tang before I harden the blade. Who is doing the heat treat a how? If they happneto be using salt baths, they don't even have to heat the tang to austenizing temp. If they oare doing it in the forge or oven then just cover the tang with a thick coating of clay.
 
TekSec said:
I'm cool with that. I'm just used to going with a full hard HT.
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Same here, kinda. I don't edge quench, but I always leave the tang unhardened. Those blades look great. Makes me feel a little better about setting this project back 5-6 months.:eek: There was no way that I was going to attempt to even touch that billet until I had some power forging equipment. The press made all the difference in the world in setting up the choil, ricasso and tang so that we would have space for the filework. I know that there are very talented smiths that could have easily done that with an anvil and hammer, but I'm not one of them:D So where is a recent pic of the hawk?:thumbup:
 
jdm61 said:
Thats easy.........don't harden that area. Tpically, I harden either the plunge line or the shoulder. That way, if I have to tweek the shoulders, it is easier and also, I don't have as much of a stress riser issue and I don't have to drill the tang before I harden the blade. Who is doing the heat treat a how? If they happneto be using salt baths, they don't even have to heat the tang to austenizing temp. If they oare doing it in the forge or oven then just cover the tang with a thick coating of clay.
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Heat treat is being done by Matt Doyle. If you need to contact him, I'll get you his contact information. Just email me at scottickesknives@gmail.com, so that I'm not broadcasting his contact information here in the thread and I'll get you in touch with him.
 
I'm having a brain cramp. Was the billet made from 1084 and 15N20?
 
jdm61 said:
I'm having a brain cramp. Was the billet made from 1084 and 15N20?
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Yup. What I tend to do for shoulders/tang drilling is to harden as usual and then blue the tang/ricasso/spine 2 or 3 times. After that filing and drilling is no big deal as long as you go slow with the drill bit on drilling. The tang doesn't get quenched anyways, so it doesn't really harden to begin with.

So, my method is:

- Rough grind (done)
- HT
- Blue tang/ricasso/spine w/ torch
- Finish grind/clean up post HT/convex edge
- Mill/file shoulders
- Hand sand
- Etch for pattern (from here forward I tape the blade up for any other work until sharpening)
- Fit guard

Just my $.02.


-d
 
jdm61 said:
Outstanding work. ARe you sure that's the blade I sent you?:D
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Thanks Joe. You did a fine job forging the blade so my job was easy.


TekSec said:
Gorgeous work. A+++++
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TekSec said:
Just out of curiosity, where am I supposed slide the guards up to? The shoulders look too far back on the ricasso....
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Thanks for the good comments Erik. As far as the guards go, if I were doing them I'd want to file my own shoulders based on the guard I'd be using. Since I do not have the guards I left this area alone. I usually do a full fit up before HT. Either doing the guard fit up prior to HT or as Joe mentioned, cover that area in high temp clay for HT process or draw out with a torch would be the way to go. Let me know what ya all think...

Eric
 
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