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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
'No Frills' $75.00 home studio tent/lightbox
- Thread starter SharpByCoop
- Start date
There is a product about the same price as the materials that comes in a large briefcase. No need for outside lighting because it works exclusively with flash. This portable contraption makes the subject seem to float on air and I think to get this effect the material is made from movie screen or similar material.
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not quite sure what you mean by "it works exclusively with flash". flash is outside lighting. do you have a link?
Coop & Murray, I've done a layered photo and in it's flattened state at actual pixels of 3072 x 2048, file size is 17.5 megs, it's clear, good crisp edges but when I try to print it wont let me until I shrink it down but when I shrink it down it gets pixalated on the edges. I'm leaving it in .psd format, What am I doing wrong?
Dwayne
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does the printer recognize .psd format? I don't use PS so not sure. Why not just save the file as a .jpg and see if you can then print it.
Murray, I did save it as a jpg and printed it but it was very pixalated around the edges. Not sure what to do, This was on a friends computer and printer but he's printed other pictures that he has taken and them came out fine. Thought there maybe something I was doing wrong that you guys could point me in the right dircection on. Dwayne
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Dwayne,
If you are printing from Photoshop, save it as a .JPG at compression 11. Then got to File, Print with Preview, and click on the box that says 'Scale to Fit Media'. That's what I do. It *should* give you all the clarity you need.
Hope your Photoshop has the same settings. If all else fails, email the JPG to me and let me try. Don't send that PSD file.
Coop
If you are printing from Photoshop, save it as a .JPG at compression 11. Then got to File, Print with Preview, and click on the box that says 'Scale to Fit Media'. That's what I do. It *should* give you all the clarity you need.
Hope your Photoshop has the same settings. If all else fails, email the JPG to me and let me try. Don't send that PSD file.
Coop
Murray White said:
My apologies for the confusion, it was a bad choice of words. What I meant was there is no need for lighting from lamps. To use this contraption, just hit the subject--which is resting on the same material--directly with the flash and the movie screen-like material on all four sides will take care of light diffusion and shadow elimination, and make the subject seem to float on air. I saved the link in my old computer and as soon as I replace the hard drive I will post it. This thread reminded me that I've always lusted for one. It really is a cool gadget. Background color is limited to white, by the way.
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No I have never in 33 years as a working pro or after retirement ever see the need to take and inferior piece of glass and put it infront of a wonderfully constructed lens by Nikon or Hasselblad.
Never scratched a lens and generally the sale of the "skylight filter" much like extended warrantees is a means by which salesmen and camera stores add to their inventory of $.
However, two things I find that should be used and very often are not are lens shades and neck straps.
A lens shade will protect a lens eqwally well as a filter (only area one might find a filter necessary might be in dirt bike racing etc) and will do much more to protect the integrity of an image and the neck strap will prevent a camera inadvertent droppage which will to major damage to any camera and likely more to a digital.
BTW. when walking with a digital camera, make sure you carry it in the hand and don't let it bang against your body or you will find problems with sensors, etc which was not the case with film cameras--this info given to my by Nikon directly.
Never scratched a lens and generally the sale of the "skylight filter" much like extended warrantees is a means by which salesmen and camera stores add to their inventory of $.
However, two things I find that should be used and very often are not are lens shades and neck straps.
A lens shade will protect a lens eqwally well as a filter (only area one might find a filter necessary might be in dirt bike racing etc) and will do much more to protect the integrity of an image and the neck strap will prevent a camera inadvertent droppage which will to major damage to any camera and likely more to a digital.
BTW. when walking with a digital camera, make sure you carry it in the hand and don't let it bang against your body or you will find problems with sensors, etc which was not the case with film cameras--this info given to my by Nikon directly.
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Sensible tips, Murray. Thank you.
Coop
Coop
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OK, here is another try.
This time I went all manual, no flash, adjusted the wb manually, etc. It's exhausting (plus, it's friggin' hot here today). There's no post production work on that (except bringing down the size of the JPG in MS Paint...)
Anyway - it's infinitely better than the previous one, but I'd love to hear from folks any input they may have. I'm not super satified with the "cripsness" of the details, but I suspect that this is a function of the lens. I shot several pics at various apertures, and this was the best (or so I find).
(Strangely enough, the background is supposed to be black. It looks gray here, maybe because it has too much "texture".)
This time I went all manual, no flash, adjusted the wb manually, etc. It's exhausting (plus, it's friggin' hot here today). There's no post production work on that (except bringing down the size of the JPG in MS Paint...)
Anyway - it's infinitely better than the previous one, but I'd love to hear from folks any input they may have. I'm not super satified with the "cripsness" of the details, but I suspect that this is a function of the lens. I shot several pics at various apertures, and this was the best (or so I find).
(Strangely enough, the background is supposed to be black. It looks gray here, maybe because it has too much "texture".)
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the reflected light meter looked at the image and tried to make it an 18% shade of gray. Try to get your lighting to light the blade evenly from tip to guard. What lighting are you using? I have generally recommended using Daylight Flourescents of 5500 K . There are many posts around showing that arrangement. Also, a black background, just like a white background is difficult to work with when doing knives or many images for that matter.
Here are a couple examples that show two different background each of which provide an almost "neutral" gray exposure value yet are two different colors.
the second is by the same maker (Brian Lyttle) but is ATS34
One background is from my old portrait background of which I have a variety of pieces but all are similar and the brown one is from a piece of wall paper I was able to obtain from Home Depot.
Here are a couple examples that show two different background each of which provide an almost "neutral" gray exposure value yet are two different colors.
the second is by the same maker (Brian Lyttle) but is ATS34
One background is from my old portrait background of which I have a variety of pieces but all are similar and the brown one is from a piece of wall paper I was able to obtain from Home Depot.
nozh2002
BANNED
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(Another one - I feel like Mao issuing 476th last warning to USSR to behave better or else (40 years ago) ...)
Well, as usual - side is darker then top. I am tiered to repeat that you will not have it better with reflector, but not direct light. Another plus of side light - better drawn relief of the top.
Thanks, Vassili.
Well, as usual - side is darker then top. I am tiered to repeat that you will not have it better with reflector, but not direct light. Another plus of side light - better drawn relief of the top.
Thanks, Vassili.
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Joss said:I'm sorry - I don't understand what you're saying.
I think what he means ,, go back in the post and see the pictures with side light.. it shows all the knife with great detail and for the knife buyer that's what we should want when selling knives from pictures,, for art of a picture then the shadows look nice, I'm selling knives not pictures,,, don't get me wrong this all has it's place in pictures and photography and is great info for all..
just my 2 cents