noah's snark sank sink sunk

[worldwood]

that's called rust :>

i like this Krud Kutter - seems to be a weak phosphoric, so if you clean the metal really well previously, and then wipe on some KK, and leave it a bit, the metal darkens up real nice still smooth as butter (previoulsy honed with scotch bright/wd40), but ... dark. i don't need mirror shiny on my working steel.

LMAO, not rust... Temper lines

I need to try out the KK, would skip me the etching step if it darkens on its own... Cant say i LOVE using ferric chloride. But i like the results more than vinegar so it is what it is....

Oh... I read about a guy using instant coffee to patina, supposedly gives a more even etch... eventually ill try this as well.

From this

To this

To this

And now like this

I rather like it like this.... I "may" etch it 1 more time, but doubt ill stonewash it... I like the temper lines and would rather not "polish" them away by stonewashing it....

Now i need to find a replacement handle... Suggestions? Then ill coat it/darken it up and maybe flame it a bit.... I wish i could tie a turks knot... Would love to put a big one up towards the head and p-wrap the handle some....

 

[spikebot587]

Looks good WW, I've wanting a cold steel hawk myself
And I'm pretty sure cold steel sells replacement handles

 

[DunkEm]

LMAO, not rust... Temper lines

I need to try out the KK, would skip me the etching step if it darkens on its own... Cant say i LOVE using ferric chloride. But i like the results more than vinegar so it is what it is....

Oh... I read about a guy using instant coffee to patina, supposedly gives a more even etch... eventually ill try this as well.

From this

To this

To this

And now like this

I rather like it like this.... I "may" etch it 1 more time, but doubt ill stonewash it... I like the temper lines and would rather not "polish" them away by stonewashing it....

Now i need to find a replacement handle... Suggestions? Then ill coat it/darken it up and maybe flame it a bit.... I wish i could tie a turks knot... Would love to put a big one up towards the head and p-wrap the handle some....

How did you etch it? Ratio of water to PCB etchant? Time?

 

[worldwood]

Looks good WW, I've wanting a cold steel hawk myself
And I'm pretty sure cold steel sells replacement handles

Thanks bud!

And yea i know CS sells replacement handles... But im sure there are both cheaper OR better options available so i was just seeing if anyone had any suggestions of hafts they prefer!!

Its a sweet hawk head, smaller than i thought, but thats a good thing for carrying it!! Still deciding how to do the edge on it... Id rather not convex it, but that would be easiest for me.... I dont think its gunna fit in the KME HAHA

 

[dresnor]

Has anyone used the new Stanley canteen? Thoughts? Opinions?

Jeremy

 

[spikebot587]

Thanks bud!

And yea i know CS sells replacement handles... But im sure there are both cheaper OR better options available so i was just seeing if anyone had any suggestions of hafts they prefer!!

Its a sweet hawk head, smaller than i thought, but thats a good thing for carrying it!! Still deciding how to do the edge on it... Id rather not convex it, but that would be easiest for me.... I dont think its gunna fit in the KME HAHA

I know H&B forge sells some nice hafts, but I'm not sure if it would fit or not

 

[ac700wildcat]

Thanks bud!

And yea i know CS sells replacement handles... But im sure there are both cheaper OR better options available so i was just seeing if anyone had any suggestions of hafts they prefer!!

Its a sweet hawk head, smaller than i thought, but thats a good thing for carrying it!! Still deciding how to do the edge on it... Id rather not convex it, but that would be easiest for me.... I dont think its gunna fit in the KME HAHA

I thinned the edge out on mine with a file and then sharpened it on sandpaper with a mouse pad under it. I think a good convex on a hawk is a good idea.

 

[worldwood]

How did you etch it? Ratio of water to PCB etchant? Time?

First off... I originally tried the PCB etchant from radio shack... Then i got some pure ferric chloride off of the river store... Im not sure if the PCB has other ingredients, forgot to even look before throwing the bottle away, or if i just got a bad bottle but i didnt get as good of results from the radio shack stuff as i did the pure FC from the river store... Lots of factors could of played a hand in this though.. this is just for clarification, i thought i should point out im using pure FC not PCB if there is any difference.

That being said.... I guesstimate the ratio... About 75% FC to 25% water.... I have tried pure FC, i have tried half and half, i have tried several ratios... It seems a little bit of water helps etch it better, But i didnt spend weeks or months testing, i just tried a few things and found what worked well for me and stuck with it.

I etched for about 30 minutes in 10 minute increments, took it out, neutralized it and cleaned it up, then i took cotton balls and kind of polished some FC into the steel in circular motions for a while.. Then neutralized again and cleaned it up and here we are.

 

[worldwood]

I thinned the edge out on mine with a file and then sharpened it on sandpaper with a mouse pad under it. I think a good convex on a hawk is a good idea.

Yep, sandpaper would be easiest with this for me as well... But im not a fan of convexed edges... And if im throwing it, now i have never thrown anything with a convexed edge, but just thinking about it it seems it wouldnt stick as well in the target due to the rounded edge??? I could be way off on this though, but really i just prefer cutting with V edges.

Its just a preference thing... Ask 50 knife guys what they prefer and you'll probably get close to half and half when it comes to V or convex LOL... Hell just like kydex or leather...

Probably piss some people off saying this but convex edges are just like leather sheaths to me too..... Both look great, better even.... And both serve their purpose...... But for purely FUNCTION, V edges and kydex sheaths whip their butts all day long...

Let the flaming commence

 

[Jonny1280]

I used to believe a V edge was superior.
On smaller, slicey, bushcrafty blades I still like a V.
But for larger blades and choppers a convex is the way to go.
Bites deeper and slices better. Not an arguement, just truth.(In my opinion of course)
I like a higher convex on big blades too. 25 degrees(50 inclusive) just won't cut it. (Pun intended)

I also like both Kydex and leather.

 

[worldwood]

But for larger blades and choppers a convex is the way to go.
Bites deeper and slices better. Not an arguement, just truth.(In my opinion of course)

Sure... Sure... Let me just go tell the bladesports world champ... And hell, more than half the competitors, that convex edges are superior for both slicing and chopping... That should go over well

Snark

 

[granitestateofmind]

My Brute works hella better with a convex than a V....but it came with about a 100° V, so.....now with a 60° V it's actually useful as a knife. Just ask Dresnor. And my BRKT Bravo has a full convex and cuts like nobody's business. I think both work....For that 'hawk, I'd just do what is easiest. It'll stick because it's thin enough stock...unlike the CRKT Kangee Woods 'hawk that I have. Thick blade, although extremely versatile, doesn't stick too great in the target. The American Tomahawk (CS clone) sticks every time.

 

[Jonny1280]

Sure... Sure... Let me just go tell the bladesports world champ... And hell, more than half the competitors, that convex edges are superior for both slicing and chopping... That should go over well

Snark

The primary bevels on their blades are relatively thin towards the edge, right?
In that case a V is great!
I'm talking about a large knife or chopper that still has a decent amount of material on the bevel.

Take a stock BK9 for example.
A properly convexed BK9 will out chop a BK9 with a V edge. It just will. That's what I've found from my experience.

Again, I like a V edge on smaller knives with thin stock down near the edge.

 

[worldwood]

I use to think convex was best... Until i listened to some people who actually knew what they were talking about, i also use to think jimping was cool too though

Man im on a roll today... I "snarked" my wife earlier like 10 times in a row.... but then i got slapped so im thinking i still lost that round

Convex vs V.. Personal preference just like kydex or leather... Lots of opinions out there. Best thing to do is see what works best for you and go at it!!

For this hawk... yea, ill likely go with easy...

 

[NCSlice]

Looking good man! I haven't a chance to work on mine today but I did a little of this..


Which was actually this lol...

I got to here then remembered the hawk laying around so I put the haft on and gave it a shot. After about 6 whacks it was through. Barely any chuncks, it more or less smashed it until it snapped. Maybe my technique, I dunno. The Dex Wharncliffe 9 blew it away. I'll have more time with it camping this weekend.

Its a sweet hawk head, smaller than i thought, but thats a good thing for carrying it!! Still deciding how to do the edge on it... Id rather not convex it, but that would be easiest for me.... I dont think its gunna fit in the KME HAHA

This:

I thinned the edge out on mine with a file and then sharpened it on sandpaper with a mouse pad under it. I think a good convex on a hawk is a good idea.

Worked great, I don't care which angle it is as long as its sharp!

Picked this up today! Whoop! $300 deal! Wilderness system pamlico tandum. The paddles and pfd's new cost more than that. Not to mention the yak at around 1k new. Its an older version but still in great shape just needs some TLC for looks. Can't wait to try it out this weekend! Hope to pick up a solo one later this week then we'll be yaked up!

 

[NCSlice]

My Brute works hella better with a convex than a V....but it came with about a 100° V, so.....now with a 60° V it's actually useful as a knife. Just ask Dresnor. And my BRKT Bravo has a full convex and cuts like nobody's business. I think both work....For that 'hawk, I'd just do what is easiest. It'll stick because it's thin enough stock...unlike the CRKT Kangee Woods 'hawk that I have. Thick blade, although extremely versatile, doesn't stick too great in the target. The American Tomahawk (CS clone) sticks every time.

Clone? I ordered a cs and a big AT sticker was on it. I get duped? Figured they were in kahootz or somethin . For $25 I ain't sweatin it but I'll bolo next time...

 

[granitestateofmind]

Clone? I ordered a cs and a big AT sticker was on it. I get duped? Figured they were in kahootz or somethin . For $25 I ain't sweatin it but I'll bolo next time...

Funny. I like that the "American" Tomahawk Company has a label that says "Made in China".....still and all, it was cheap and it's fun to throw. I'd get another, but the place I bought it still hasn't replaced their stock after I bought mine....need to get two of the same for double throwing....

[video]https://youtu.be/5o8Cn7iaqEA[/video]

 

[Ray Settanta]

The American Tomahawk Co. is a division of Cold Steel, I believe.

 

[tanglediver]

In before one of the next thread. :eagerness:

I was on time out for a bit. Just came around to say hey; Hey!

 

[worldwood]

The primary bevels on their blades are relatively thin towards the edge, right?
.

Yes, they get pretty damn thin towards the edge on the comp cutters.

But your making this too easy for me bud....

Take a stock BK9 for example.
A properly convexed BK9 will out chop a BK9 with a V edge. It just will. That's what I've found from my experience.
.

First you need to try out a PROPERLY applied V edge on that BK9 before you can make that assumption

Of course once you sharpen a stock knife up to a mirror polished convex it performs better.... Take a BK9, stock, and put a properly applied mirror polished 17° per side V on it and then tell me it doesnt bite deeper than a convex edge at the same edge thickness swung with the same force and both with perfect technique.

Now if you happen to torque the knife in the wood.... Then a convex will bet better off due to more meat behind the edge. Its definitely a stronger edge and more easily maintained, id never argue that.... But saying one performs better in both slicing and chopping.... Come on now... If that was the case, all knives would come with convexed edges. Makers still using V edges wuoldnt be able to sell anything. Both are being sold because both have the ups, and both have their downs...

BUT the major ups for convex is easier to apply/maintain and stronger, NOW THIS is just fact, but saying either is absolutely better than the other for both chopping and slicing is LUDICROUS