On-line class Edge re-profile/convex your Busse.

was going to use a scrapper LE but after I started, I discovered that the tip was bent. . .
defunct-scrapper.jpg


So I inked up my Skeleton Warden.
inked.jpg


After a little while:
beginnings.jpg


And finally:
wide-bevel-2.jpg

wide-bevel-1.jpg


Looks kind of uneven, and I am not sure about raising any burr. My technique sucks I think.
 
Nope thats look better than anyones so far. Its ok that it looks like hell right now. I am telling yeah the sandpaper is gonna smooth away a multitude of sins.

I notice that you may have rounded the tip a little. Not good But DON"T worry that is easy to fix. Lay the spine of the knife down on the stone and pull it towards you. This will grind the spine down into the edge and sharpen tip back up.

RF your knife is gonna be fine and you are really getting the swing of this. Look how closely your picture matchs what you should see from my first diagram.

Now keep going and move to a finer stone to begin to clean up the big gouges. Resist the desire to begin to elevate the knife angle to get the stone on the edge faster! That always happens when you get bored or tired.

This is going great guys and are going to get some GREAT results!
 
Justabuyer said:
I notice that you may have rounded the tip a little. Not good But DON"T worry that is easy to fix. Lay the spine of the knife down on the stone and pull it towards you. This will grind the spine down into the edge and sharpen tip back up.
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I think the tip is fine, it is just stuck in the t-shirt :thumbup:
 
Lesson 2: Refine the edge, start the convex process.


OK before we move to step two we must have accomplished the following,

Using a course stone we have re-profiled the edge of the knife from tip to the heal of the blade. The edge has been set slightly thinner than we want at the very edge. From tip to the heal of the blade a burr can be felt with our fingers. If you have not done this you are not ready for step 2. GO FINISH step 1 or you will be wasting your time from here on in.


Now look at your knife and the ugly scratched up bevel. Color it black with your sharpie marker. Get out a finer stone and repeat step one until the bevel is free of the big scratches left by step one. Sounds simple right? Well here is that task in more detail.

As you work the edge over the stone with your guide hand resting lightly on the blade pay special attention to how the blade feels as it moves over the stone. From here on in the correct angle will be set by FEEL not by looking!! I can even close my eyes and do this. If the blade is held to close to the stone it will feel rough as the stone grinds on the bevel/primary grind shoulder. Similarly if the blade is held to high it will feel rough as the edge digs into the stone. But if you are on the bevel flat it will feel very smooth.

RESIST THE URGE TO ELEVATE THE BLADE TO WORK THE EDGE FASTER.

Its all about the feel. Keep going until all the deep scratches are gone. If you want you can begin to form the convex now by allowing a slight bias towards the bevel/primary grind shoulder. This begins to blend the bevel into the primary grind. This is optional as the sand paper will do this quickly and with great ease.

Ok this should be a 5 minute task. All you are doing is cleaning up.

Next we move to the sand paper and here is a diagram to begin the explanation of what we are going to accomplish with the paper and soft backing material.

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I will do another post in a little bit after people start posting about having the edge cleaned up some. We are almost to the fun part. SANDPAPER!!
 
Here are some pics of the blade I have been working on taken on about the same spot on the blade from about the same angle as the lst photos.

I have cleaned up the edge real quick on a smoother stone and worked it for about 10 mins on each side on some wet 600 grit paper with a leather backing. The motion is the EXACT same motion as the stone except in the edge trailing direction only. The natural give in the sand paper is begining to impart a sweet natural curve to the edge bevel. I am going to work it a bit more but not much..

The only thing that remains is the final polish on some 2000 grit paper.

Let see some more pictures guys as your work progresses. That way we can point stuff out and make suggestions...
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Ok, I got my supplies on Friday. I got a stone holder and 3 diasharps. I didn't get the corian block so instead I glued some 8-10oz. leather to a 2x4 and I'll just wrap the sandpaper around it:

1795695438_31f33a2de4.jpg



I decided to use one of my new blender wardens for two reasons--it didn't come very sharp from the shop, and I want to thin the edge to make it a nice weighty slicer. I put the extra extra coarse stone in the holder:

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Note the light reflecting off the edge bevel here. Say bye-bye!
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I put some water on the stone (and while working I would occasionally spread more water on the stone to wipe off the swarf and keep it wet) and started grinding on the logo side.

I stopped after a few passes to take a look:
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I was pleased with what I saw - the shoulder of the primary/secondary bevel is coming down nicely.

After what seemed like hours, but was probably more like 20-30 minutes, I finished the first side as evidenced by a tiny wire edge on the opposite side of the edge. Here's the first side done:

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The second side went a lot faster, or at least it seemed to! Here it is done:

1794907539_ef9da58bbe_b.jpg


I tried to show the wire edge I ended up with on the side I ground first; you can see the light reflecting off it by the tip and on the belly:

1795747632_b7ebe4c867_b.jpg


Observations:
  • The logo side was easier for me to grind than the other side. When I ground the logo side I held the handle in my right hand (I'm right handed) and used my left fingers and guides on the blade. When I ground the other side I held the handle in my left hand and used my right fingers for blade guides. I had considerably less feel with the handle in my left hand, and it was not comfortable.
  • I used the thumb of the hand holding the handle and slid it along the edge of the stone to help me guide my grinding angle. I tried to go as low as I could without grinding the flats. I was less successful near the tip on the non-logo side. :rolleyes:
  • I made sure the shoulder was gone, especially out at the tip by looking down the spine and grinding out any remains.
  • I figured for this rough work it's fine to grind edge leading and edge trailing to get it done faster. I imagine at some point I'll want to switch to edge trailing only, but I don't know when!
 
Well I ran mine on the med stone to get out the marks from the coarse stone. Then polished and started to convex the right side of the asymmetric edge and just polished the short grind side on a hard surface.

It shaves and push cut paper just after the 600 grit! :eek:
 
Holy Crap MileyMoto! Way to go!! You dug deep man. That is almost flat to the blade. That thing is gonna SLICE Baby!! After you knock some of the big scratches out with a less course stone, on yours gets some sandpaper like 320 grit or so and work the entire blade flats for a while. It will be worth the extra effort. Yours is gonna come out great!!

Also..I have to mention..... that is a GREAT Leather block.... Having it up off the table is going to make it real easy to use.
 
Tony G said:
Well I ran mine on the med stone to get out the marks from the coarse stone. Then polished and started to convex the right side of the asymmetric edge and just polished the short grind side on a hard surface.

It shaves and push cut paper just after the 600 grit! :eek:
Click to expand...

Yes, so now you know the secret..(prolly did before) it is not rocket science. If you go to burr on both sides and work your way up through a few grits always working to a burr then switch quickly to sandpaper for literally just a few mins work your knife WILL be sharp. With practice it will become crazy sharp.

The entire key to this is getting the bevel set right on your xxcourse stone.

WOOT!
 
Justabuyer said:
After you knock some of the big scratches out with a less course stone, on yours gets some sandpaper like 320 grit or so and work the entire blade flats for a while. It will be worth the extra effort. Yours is gonna come out great!!
Click to expand...

I ground the new bevel on the coarse and then fine dia-sharp stones, then I went to work on the flats with sandpaper. I ended up going down to 150 (wet/dry SiC sandpaper) and it's still taking forever....I still haven't finished the first side yet, but the scratches are coming out. Slowly.

I'm a little worried about rounding the tip, so I'm being careful there, and I'm trying not to hit the edge at all while working the flats, even though I know they will be totally changed when I finally move to leather-backed sandpaper for the edge. Once I get the scratches totally out with the 150 I'll move up in grits until I get the level of finish I want (no ice Warden for me).

Currently with the 150 I'm working tip-to-scales. When I finish and move up to the next higher grit and I'm working from spine to edge, is there a good technique to avoid overly rounding the edge or the spine? Currently I'm just holding the sandpaper in my fingers and sanding. Should I switch to a leather-backed block or something more straight?

Justabuyer said:
Also..I have to mention..... that is a GREAT Leather block.... Having it up off the table is going to make it real easy to use.
Click to expand...

Thank you. I considered getting something smaller like a 1x4 but I really wanted to avoid dragging my fingers/knuckles on the workbench while sanding. I was initially going to use some 7/8oz. leather for the backing but I didn't have any left so I used some thicker stuff. I guess something a little softer will help me get the zero edge I'm going for. :D

My edge is still thicker near the ricasso but I don't think I'm going to thin it any more, so it won't really be a zero edge down there but it's gonna be close!

Oh, and thanks in advance to Justabuyer for the enjoyable class!
 
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