Only Sharp Knives Are Interesting- the Sharpening Thread

I won't add to what others have said because it's great - but I will add that my method is just what works for me. Being OCD I like seeing a nice consistent edge, I'm not referring to the widening near the tip, I mean changes in geometry and edge bevels that don't transition cleanly to the primary grind. I also don't like removing more steel than necessary so I have developed a system of setting my preferred edge on the jig, and maintaining it on croc sticks, only going back to a jig if the edge gets beyond repair.

How you position the clamp on the blade has a lot to do with the wider edge near the tip (note - wider, not an angle change). Each blade is a little different but my rule of thumb is just forward of center on a line drawn from the rear edge to the tip on a straight line.

Wicked Edge has a scale that is intended to make it easier to sharpen to same angle a second time, but my system is basically the same idea, stay consistent in thought and process and you increase repeatability. You can also start future sessions with a sharpie and polishing tape or a high grit stone to dial in the angle without affecting edge geometry as mush, then once you have it set drop to your normal starting grit.
 
Thanks fellas! Been helpful as usual… I’m landing on the hapstone r2 with diamond stones… lets see how it goes… I like the big base since I don’t always have a good bench to clamp to, different options to add on etc… gathering cheap knives for initial runs… we’ll see how it goes!!
 
metaltamer said:
Thanks fellas! Been helpful as usual… I’m landing on the hapstone r2 with diamond stones… lets see how it goes… I like the big base since I don’t always have a good bench to clamp to, different options to add on etc… gathering cheap knives for initial runs… we’ll see how it goes!!
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I mounted my wicked edge to a 1” thick piece of granite. It’s nice and stable. Just not real travel friendly.
 
metaltamer said:
Thanks fellas! Been helpful as usual… I’m landing on the hapstone r2 with diamond stones… lets see how it goes… I like the big base since I don’t always have a good bench to clamp to, different options to add on etc… gathering cheap knives for initial runs… we’ll see how it goes!!
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Let me know if you need any help!
 
Today I rediscovered an old set up of mine. Some years ago I wanted long diamond plates I could use freehand but was (and still am) too cheap to shell out for a proper set. So I bought a set of Worksharp plates for use in their first guided system, then epoxied them onto handles fashioned from paint stir sticks and an old yardstick. Crude, but it gave me the leverage and control I wanted.

They're almost worn out now, but they came in handy today to start re-profiling my 15V PM2 - it came with a wonkey, thick edge from the seconds sale this summer. I think I'll make a second set sometime soon.

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Nice! Now that you have "proofed the concept" try to get a set of diamond stones from KME, they will last longer than anything else I have seen or used and are not too expensive, about what an equivalent sized DMT would run.
 
91bravo said:
Electric razors can never get as close as a manual blade, at least in my experience.

Ballistol is awesome, I use it wipe my guns down.
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I haven't tried many but they're a no-go for me. Gimme a blade every time.
But at least I found a use for the pre-shave.

Yeah, Ballistol has been useful for a variety of tasks. It's mineral oil based, so it's not gonna do any harm.
 
Blues said:
I haven't tried many but they're a no-go for me. Gimme a blade every time.
But at least I found a use for the pre-shave.

Yeah, Ballistol has been useful for a variety of tasks. It's mineral oil based, so it's not gonna do any harm.
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When I used to collect traditionals, I would rub the bone scales down with mineral oil to keep them from drying out. I don’t know if it’s the correct thing to do for bone, but it worked and kept them fresh looking and crack free.
 
Anyone tried to hand grind the primaries grinds?

Apart from DEK3, I think other CPK knives I have (apart from Behemother) would benefit from thinning the primary grinds. I prefer good slicer rather than though use knives. However, I am not willing to try as it will change the finish which is not a huge problem because I may and up with hand rubbed finish if I do it correctly. But my concern is I will not able to maintain the "S" shape on the primary grind. I might try on UF2 and Kephart since (as far as I know) they do not have "S" grind.

Before trying that I will try to sharpen the secondary grind (i.e. the edge) to more acute angles. But I doubt it will help greatly in increasing the slicing performance.
 
yoko said:
Let me know if you need any help!
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Well… turns out trying to purchase direct from a company out of Ukraine and not expecting stock/shipping time concerns was a mistake 😂. Ended up with hapstone competitor due to immediate accessibility… question for y’all… running through my first run on an older kitchen knife. Loving these systems already but getting a lil chatter in the rod pivot… do y’all grease that or is it typically unnecessary? Trying to use water only on diamond ply so would rather avoid it but unsure if it’s typically needed… assuming it might be?
 
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