The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Hey bud I’m likely not the best person to take advice from here but thought I’d give you some kind of answer… my honest thoughts on this get a knife made thinner and designed to be more of a slicer from the get go. For what we pay for these cpks and what most of em are made for (hard use) I wouldn’t get too far into changing geometry that much and like you said be careful with what grind it’s starting with. My 2 cents anyway!Anyone tried to hand grind the primaries grinds?
Apart from DEK3, I think other CPK knives I have (apart from Behemother) would benefit from thinning the primary grinds. I prefer good slicer rather than though use knives. However, I am not willing to try as it will change the finish which is not a huge problem because I may and up with hand rubbed finish if I do it correctly. But my concern is I will not able to maintain the "S" shape on the primary grind. I might try on UF2 and Kephart since (as far as I know) they do not have "S" grind.
Before trying that I will try to sharpen the secondary grind (i.e. the edge) to more acute angles. But I doubt it will help greatly in increasing the slicing performance.
Thanks yoko! Went with the tsprof kadet pro.What system and what kind of pivot?
Also I run a mix of water and a tiny bit of dish wash soap on my stones
Is it through a bushing or bearings , I'm sure a drop of whatever pivot lube you have around will be okayView attachment 2335618
That there pivot that the rod slides through. Chattering a lil unsure if lube is needed or should be avoided?
Yeah thanks man. I don’t see any type of insert just that machined piece it slides into.Is it through a bushing or bearings , I'm sure a drop of whatever pivot lube you have around will be okay
Remember take you time, don't use force on the stones.... let them do what they are designed toYeah thanks man. I don’t see any type of insert just that machined piece it slides into.
Remember take you time, don't use force on the stones.... let them do what they are designed to
Use silicone lubricant. It doesn't hold dirt particulates.View attachment 2335618
That there pivot that the rod slides through. Chattering a lil unsure if lube is needed or should be avoided?
Yeah I agree with that. On the other hand, I like the quality and working principles of CPK. So I do not mind putting some work into those knives to make them a bit more oriented for my use as long as I do not mess them upHey bud I’m likely not the best person to take advice from here but thought I’d give you some kind of answer… my honest thoughts on this get a knife made thinner and designed to be more of a slicer from the get go. For what we pay for these cpks and what most of em are made for (hard use) I wouldn’t get too far into changing geometry that much and like you said be careful with what grind it’s starting with. My 2 cents anyway!
If you want a toothier edge, just sharpen up to a lower grit. Instead of sharpening with 1500-2000 grit, maybe try stopping at 600-800 grit. It just depends on the edge you want.Getting the hang of the tsprof for sure. Finished with 6micron strop. Going to take it out this weekend in the woods. Impressed but part of me feels I don’t need such a smooth edge… it’s pretty awesome but I kinda like more bite! Idk maybe I’m just used to rougher edges… time will tell!!
Slices paper towel pretty good… not bad for BFK… #notslicey
View attachment 2344520
Good to know! I was thinking of more in terms of polish and going in line of grit where it’s just more work typically to skip up like that… that makes sense in terms of simply refining the burr and leaving it rough. Took that to 1000 grit before strop. Thanks man I’ll try that on the next run.If you want a toothier edge, just sharpen up to a lower grit. Instead of sharpening with 1500-2000 grit, maybe try stopping at 600-800 grit. It just depends on the edge you want.
You could also try a dual grit edge. Youtube has a few videos on it. It seems to make the edge last longer, but I prefer the way a single grit edge feels more. YMMV
According to Don, who was the source of the diamond spray I sent you, and, I think, your strop as well...Anyone want to share how they clean their strops loaded with diamond spray? I’ve been using one for a bit now and the surface has turned a decent shade of dark grey and it doesn’t feel like it’s working as great as it did a month ago or so, I figure it’s best not to just spray more emulsion on it?
To clean either as they load with metal I simply wipe with paper towel or use a large pink eraser and only re-apply spray as needed
A simple 10x BelOMO triplet available on amazon can be useful...but I rarely ever use a magnifying glass to check edges.After reading through this post I’m ordering a magnifying glass. Is there a strength I should order or are they all pretty much same?
Thanks Blues. I ordered a base mounted 10x from Amazon. Good info allA simple 10x BelOMO triplet available on amazon can be useful...but I rarely ever use a magnifying glass to check edges.
According to Don, who was the source of the diamond spray I sent you, and, I think, your strop as well...
By either he is referring to basswood or leather.