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- Jun 16, 2003
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If you have an axe. But "survival," by definition, means lack of access to vast resources, so you might have to improvise.
"40 years" - a good start.
"40 years" - a good start.
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
If you have an axe. But "survival," by definition, means lack of access to vast resources, so you might have to improvise.
"40 years" - a good start.
My Kenmore grilling tongs are more than capable of picking up dog turds in the back yard and I'm quite confident any employee would guarantee their ability to complete such a task. However, Some guarantees are just better left untested.
That being said, if Ontario guaranteed it, they should replace it. I'm not arguing that.
My Kenmore grilling tongs are more than capable of picking up dog turds in the back yard and I'm quite confident any employee would guarantee their ability to complete such a task. However, Some guarantees are just better left untested.
So for X-Mas I got an Ontario BlackBird. I got this knife because the maker claimed you could baton with it. Some state that you shouldn't baton, but as a knife maker, when you make a claim, expect that claim to be tested.
What I did:
First I baton a few small pieces of wood. Then I chopped for a few minutes. And finally I decided to baton on top of it to see if it could take the hits. I can't stress this next part enough, I put about 1/5 of my normal power into these swings. My normal hits on my CS LeatherNeck have never caused me issue, and with all my might I could not break my CS LeatherNeck. I'm gonna say it again in a different way..........The wood my BlackBird broke on was soft, straight, no knots, hit with very little power and it broke by the third hit.
Here is where it broke.
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I'm gonna see if the manufacturer will send me my money back.
Couldn't you find a bigger piece of wood to "baton?"
I'm sure that "battoning" means different things to different people. Perhaps when the maker said that the knife was suitable for battoning he meant splitting small pieces of wood, not using the knife as a wedge to split tree-trunk size logs with.
You're claiming it'd be best if a guarantee to baton was left untested on a survival knife.
.....THEN WHY WOULD YOU GUARANTEE IT?!
Bottom line; that very soft thing residing in that very hard thing resting on your shoulders is still the most valuable tool you'll ever take out on an excursion, so not asking your equipment to bite off more than it can chew (i.e. common sense) goes a long way in determining "survival".
To move product. One more guarantee is one more selling point.
I'm curious about two things-
1. I wonder if Ontario will replace the knife. In particular, would they replace it if they knew how it was broken (seeing that picture)?
2. Do the members here think that Ontario should replace the knife?
Even if a knife company says that their knife is suitable for splitting wood, isn't it only fair for them to place a limit on what constitutes "wood splitting?
If, for example, a person tries to split the frozen stump from a 100 year old oak tree by hammering on the knife with a baseball bat, some might call that "batonning", but should the knife maker be required to replace the knife when it breaks just because they said it was suitable for "wood splitting"?
I don't imagine Ontario or any other company can specifically explain exactly what constitutes acceptable "wood splitting" in their waranty. Are they suppose to address every type of wood, green or seasoned, frozen or unfrozen, the size of the piece of wood, whether or not there are knots in it, what an acceptable tool is to strike the knife with, from what angle the knife must be struck, etc, etc.
Personally, I'd say chaulk that knife up as a loss and look upon it as a learning experience. I wouldn't hold Ontario responsible.
Imho, all relevant discussion in this specific case ended right there on the front page. Looks like the OP was attempting to cut a large diameter log with a 5" bladed knife... uummm, what did you think was going to happen? That log required a machete, hatchet, or axe; or at the very least a substantial 7"-9" knife with a much thicker blade... RD9 or BK9?
As for batoning, it does seem like it's suddenly turned into some kind of fad for knife enthusiasts, moreso than a legitimate survival skill. Do I want to have the skill just in case I'm in an emergency that requires it? Yes. Do I want equipment capable of performing the task if I do it properly? Yes. Do I take every new knife I get right out of the mailbox and go chop down trees or hammer it into logs with another log? Of course not; it's a knife.
When I think of batoning (and when people talk about having been taught to do it in a survival class or whatever), I think of an activity that was intended as a last resort... something you are forced to do because you don't have the PROPER tool. In other words, it sounds like something you might be forced to do once to get out of a scrape; and your knife may or may not survive the experience, but you will if it works just this once. I don't think of it as something one does habitually to their knife for kicks and giggles or to test its durability. If you know you're going to be engaging in heavy work requiring a heavy cutting tool, TAKE A HEAVY CUTTING TOOL.
Just like with any activity, folks are going to inevitably push the envelope. When people first started discussing batoning a lot online and doing videos, they were splitting wood that was almost already kindling in the first place, and taking down saplings. As time wore on, proving one's knife was the end-all/be-all became important to many; and they started trying to take down larger diameter trees and if the knife couldn't split a stick of osage orange it was useless.
Bottom line; that very soft thing residing in that very hard thing resting on your shoulders is still the most valuable tool you'll ever take out on an excursion, so not asking your equipment to bite off more than it can chew (i.e. common sense) goes a long way in determining "survival".
Also to the correct tool for the job people, I use a Bk2 mainly, that is a correct tool for the job because if you think that sharpened crow bar was designed for normal knife usage, as in slicing then you need to rethink some things.