What an amazing job! You know, I've seen the movie multiple times, but never noticed Dumbledore's knife. Now I want one!
Opinel Mods, lets see them
- Thread starter onojoe
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I recently took a spoon carving class, hoping to improve my whittling skills. I want to get more out of my EDC than opening boxes and slicing apples. I'll admit I was a little disappointed that the instructor didn't ask, "What's in your pocket?". He just handed out a bunch of Mora 106 carving knives.
Partway through I pulled out my mini-Griptilian, convinced it could to anything the Mora could. When the instructor saw me struggling with the thick blade (compared to the Mora, anyway), he said, "Yeah, those tactical knives aren't the best carving blades."
He was right, of course. And it wasn't a big problem, since that meant I'd have to buy another knife, and Mora 106 is cheap. Still, I wasn't going to EDC a fixed-blade Mora, so I asked if he knew of any good whittling folders. He whipped out a well-used Opinel No. 8 and put some perfect bevels on the handle of the spoon he was working on.
I've used an Opinel mushroom knife for years, and I love it, but I hadn't thought about carrying a standard Opinel. I'm not really fond of the fishtail butt on the knife. Plus, as the instructor noted, the tip on the clip point blade isn't ideal for carving. So I reshaped the tip into more of a drop point, and I carved the handle into a more comfortable shape with better blade access.
Of course, access to the nail nick isn't so important anymore, because I also sanded out the pivot space, so now it's a gravity blade. There is a ton of blade play at some points in the blade's travel, but it is tight as can be in the locked positions. And the lock is now mandatory, but I've got the lock ring turning buttery smooth. It's fiddly and fun. My mini-Grip will be competing for pocket space.
The finish is bee's wax, rubbed on while applying heat with a heat gun. The other knife in the picture is a No. 7 for blade and handle shape comparison (as though you don't already know what an Opinel No. looks like).
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Partway through I pulled out my mini-Griptilian, convinced it could to anything the Mora could. When the instructor saw me struggling with the thick blade (compared to the Mora, anyway), he said, "Yeah, those tactical knives aren't the best carving blades."
He was right, of course. And it wasn't a big problem, since that meant I'd have to buy another knife, and Mora 106 is cheap. Still, I wasn't going to EDC a fixed-blade Mora, so I asked if he knew of any good whittling folders. He whipped out a well-used Opinel No. 8 and put some perfect bevels on the handle of the spoon he was working on.
I've used an Opinel mushroom knife for years, and I love it, but I hadn't thought about carrying a standard Opinel. I'm not really fond of the fishtail butt on the knife. Plus, as the instructor noted, the tip on the clip point blade isn't ideal for carving. So I reshaped the tip into more of a drop point, and I carved the handle into a more comfortable shape with better blade access.
Of course, access to the nail nick isn't so important anymore, because I also sanded out the pivot space, so now it's a gravity blade. There is a ton of blade play at some points in the blade's travel, but it is tight as can be in the locked positions. And the lock is now mandatory, but I've got the lock ring turning buttery smooth. It's fiddly and fun. My mini-Grip will be competing for pocket space.
The finish is bee's wax, rubbed on while applying heat with a heat gun. The other knife in the picture is a No. 7 for blade and handle shape comparison (as though you don't already know what an Opinel No. looks like).
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Henry Beige
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Nothing new here. These are the Opinels I have modified for pocket carry, two No.6, an 8 and a 10. For me, the main thing is to slim down the flared pommel so they ride comfortably. On the bigger ones, I flatten the sides. The 6s don’t need it.
The finish is Sno-Seal and Bernz-O-Matic.
The finish is Sno-Seal and Bernz-O-Matic.
years ago, my grip slipped on a #6 Opinel and laid my 1st finger open, as it's sharpened right up to the base of the blade - there's no tang like other slipjoints. So, after many years of swearing off Opinels, I picked up a little #5 and filed a flat spot where the tang should be, so I shouldn't be able to hog my finger again if it slips. I think I"m going to like the #5 - for the days I need to carry a wee knife, I think it may work out ...
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Hello! I have many opinels but my most frequent EDC is # 6 in oak and tinker SAK
After 2 weeks of watching opinels mods in this forum, I definitely want to give my #6 a drop point. I only have a dremel with sanding and cutting kit.
will it be enough? any advice from the experts?
Cut first and then sand or just sand? Any problem or consideration with the increase in temperature when cutting and damage the temper of the blade?
Thank you and I await your advice.
After 2 weeks of watching opinels mods in this forum, I definitely want to give my #6 a drop point. I only have a dremel with sanding and cutting kit.
will it be enough? any advice from the experts?
Cut first and then sand or just sand? Any problem or consideration with the increase in temperature when cutting and damage the temper of the blade?
Thank you and I await your advice.
JTB_5
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I'm no expert, but I've picked up a few tips from others along the way.
I keep a cup of cold water and dip the knife after a few second passing over the sander (I have a small belt sander). The higher the grit, the quicker it gets hot. I use a marker to draw the lines I want on the knife and then I use a coarser grit to remove the bulk of the metal and go to the finer grit when I want to take off just the finishing touches to angles and swedges.
Henry Beige
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I don’t bring the point down all that far. I start with 80 grit emery cloth, then take it down farther with a nice, sharp file. Doing it that way, the blade inevitably reaches a point where it starts to drop, then rises again wiith a little wigglt, then levels out or drops again. This is the point at which I get tired of sanding and filing, so I put the knife aside for a day or two, or a week or two, or even a couple of months. After a little rest, I can attack it again with renewed vigor.
With a sanding drum on a Dremel, you can shorten the process to about half an hour. That is how I would have done if the 50-year-old brushes on my Dremel had not failed. Replacement brushes only lasted about a minute. Some disconuities in the armature led to premature brush failure. It was a clear vote in favor of the old ways.
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Looking at my No. 8 and looking at these pictures... I think someone needs to modify an Opinel WITH an Opinel. I have some ideas.
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Thanks for the advices. Well, a lot of time at home these days so I took my dremel and here I am.
And here is my Opi #6 next to my girlfriend's #6.
I was reeealy close to do something with the handle, but I need more Sand paper, oil and stuff so fun for another day.
And here is my Opi #6 next to my girlfriend's #6.
I was reeealy close to do something with the handle, but I need more Sand paper, oil and stuff so fun for another day.
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I started my mod (about 1 pm today) of my #8 to address some issues I’ve had with it. I’ve owned it for a couple years now and it doesn’t get much pocket time, though I love the concept, as well as the shapely handle. I actually just ordered a #8 in stainless, I appreciate the design so much.
the blade shape, length and the fact that the edge extends past the handle are things I never got comfortable with. When I have this knife open I am constantly checking myself to make sure I’m not in harms way. It’s like a hook knife; it’s easy to forget where the tip and edge are.
I’ve learned a lot during this mod, and I’m excited to share it with you as soon as the Danish Oil dries.
I can see modifying Opinels could become a very interesting hobby...
the blade shape, length and the fact that the edge extends past the handle are things I never got comfortable with. When I have this knife open I am constantly checking myself to make sure I’m not in harms way. It’s like a hook knife; it’s easy to forget where the tip and edge are.
I’ve learned a lot during this mod, and I’m excited to share it with you as soon as the Danish Oil dries.
I can see modifying Opinels could become a very interesting hobby...
cbach8tw
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Sounds interesting. Like the spear point of the #8 garden knife, but like the 6's size, so the spear on the 6 sounds cool. Let us know how w how it turns out.
Could not see your images of the mod.
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Alright, I'm calling this mod finished!
Here's the run down:
1) turned the blade into a spear/drop point type
I love the look of the classic Opinel blade, but to me it functions more like a skinner blade rather than a true clip point. One day I'll make one of these Opinels into a true wharncliff, but for now I wasn't willing to waste all that good edge and the new spear gives me a more accessible point.
2) installed a 5/32 brass stop pin
The clever virobloc locking mechanism is great, but as the knife gets sharpened over the course of it's life, the locking ring will reach it's maximum capacity. There's two thoughts here: the first is that I could just grind the "ramp" further, getting rid of the current 'stop' that's there. This is only a temporary fix. The other is that I change the reference point to a more permanent reference by adding a stop pin. Typically the blade edge rests against the wood of the handle's blade well, so as the blade gets more sharpenings it will sit down lower and lower until the virobloc no longer holds it snugly in place.
3) filed the blade to depth for the stop pin
This stop depth can be further adjusted. It will help 'nickless' versions of this knife by keeping the blade up out of the well. It will also keep the edge off the wood- I never really liked the idea of putting my pristine edge into the wood, as I imagine jostling in my pocket would cause that edge to roll.
4) took the edge off the lower part of the blade (now between the stop pin cutout and the handle)
I've nicked myself on that edge a few times. I tend to choke up on the handle for some activities and this really wasn't conducive to that. The metal is still thin there, so it's not exactly comfortable, but it doesn't draw blood anymore.
5) reshaped the butt of the handle (the famous 'fish tail')
I agonized over this one- I do love the look of the traditional Opinel handle. Some of the lines in the swell of the handle are just perfection. My issue was in the point-forward sabre grip. That heel corner tends to put itself directly into the palm of my hand. I rounded that off without changing many of the graceful lines this knife handle features. I finished it with sanding to 220 grit, applying two coats of danish oil, then finally giving it a beeswax/mineral oil application.
All-in-all I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. I'd do a couple things differently. I'd place the stop pin slightly higher up (towards the blade) and I'd use smaller stock. (I just happened to have this 5/32" brass rod).
Edit: Towards the *pivot*, not the blade.
Here's the run down:
1) turned the blade into a spear/drop point type
I love the look of the classic Opinel blade, but to me it functions more like a skinner blade rather than a true clip point. One day I'll make one of these Opinels into a true wharncliff, but for now I wasn't willing to waste all that good edge and the new spear gives me a more accessible point.
2) installed a 5/32 brass stop pin
The clever virobloc locking mechanism is great, but as the knife gets sharpened over the course of it's life, the locking ring will reach it's maximum capacity. There's two thoughts here: the first is that I could just grind the "ramp" further, getting rid of the current 'stop' that's there. This is only a temporary fix. The other is that I change the reference point to a more permanent reference by adding a stop pin. Typically the blade edge rests against the wood of the handle's blade well, so as the blade gets more sharpenings it will sit down lower and lower until the virobloc no longer holds it snugly in place.
3) filed the blade to depth for the stop pin
This stop depth can be further adjusted. It will help 'nickless' versions of this knife by keeping the blade up out of the well. It will also keep the edge off the wood- I never really liked the idea of putting my pristine edge into the wood, as I imagine jostling in my pocket would cause that edge to roll.
4) took the edge off the lower part of the blade (now between the stop pin cutout and the handle)
I've nicked myself on that edge a few times. I tend to choke up on the handle for some activities and this really wasn't conducive to that. The metal is still thin there, so it's not exactly comfortable, but it doesn't draw blood anymore.
5) reshaped the butt of the handle (the famous 'fish tail')
I agonized over this one- I do love the look of the traditional Opinel handle. Some of the lines in the swell of the handle are just perfection. My issue was in the point-forward sabre grip. That heel corner tends to put itself directly into the palm of my hand. I rounded that off without changing many of the graceful lines this knife handle features. I finished it with sanding to 220 grit, applying two coats of danish oil, then finally giving it a beeswax/mineral oil application.
All-in-all I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. I'd do a couple things differently. I'd place the stop pin slightly higher up (towards the blade) and I'd use smaller stock. (I just happened to have this 5/32" brass rod).
Last edited:
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Here is a No. 8 that I thinned and scorched the handle on.
They make this one just for that purpose, so you can get creative with the handle shape:
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I’ve spotted that on the Opinel website. I love this idea for novelty (perhaps a few practical!) applications. I wish they had a general blade blank to go with this for folks who wanted more blade material to work with.They make this one just for that purpose, so you can get creative with the handle shape:
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Here is a No. 8 that I thinned and scorched the handle on.
Great job! Do you have a pic from and upper angle? I'll love to see how thin it is. And one question off topic...how do you upload images? New on forum and imgur or google photos doesn't seem to work here. ThanksHere is a No. 8 that I thinned and scorched the handle on.
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Thank you. Here's a couple pics.
I'm not sure if you are using your phone or a PC but here are a some links that might help.
link to sticky thread in Tech support
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/how-do-i-post-pictures-from-a.1394713/
link to one about posting from a phone in the Becker sub forum
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/inserting-pics-from-phone-to-bladeforums.1519291/
link to a custom google search for bladeforums. I find it works better than the regular search.
https://cse.google.com/cse?cx=012217165931761871935:iqyc7cbzhci
I hope this helps and welcome to the forum.