P2 unresolved warranty problem uggggggh

I haven't had one or seen one in my hands that had that play, or at what point. None of mine did/does and I have 4 P2's currently. Perhaps when I see how bad it is I'll get with the consensus here anyway but I haven't as of today. I won't make up my mind until then. As far as what Spyderco says about within tolerances that doesn't bother me. Not until I see one obviously wrong that she has made that declaration about.

I try not to give out statements like "spyderco is wrong" until I see it happening myself. Anything else is just jumping on the bandwagon and agreeing with people I don't even know on the internet about something I know nothing about.

That makes no sense. Perhaps if, Like Undertow, I saw it myself I'd be pissed off they did it to me as well. Until then I feel that if there was a bad problem Charlynn would take care of it. Spyderco has more than proven itself to me in the 19 years and well over a hundred examples I do have experience with and knowledge about.
 
I've had good experiences with them myself. I did have the M4 sprint Manix. Mine had play. I sold it due to this, just didn't trust it due to the play. It was a nice knife though!

I will still buy any Spyderco I like. The experience did not put me off from Spyderco. Still a great company with a great warranty.
 
I have 3 CP20 p2's. Of them, one had what I considered excessive lateral play. I tightened the pivot that was under the clip and the play went away. I do agree with the op, it's a $200 knife. Until recently, some dealers were charging retail.
 
3? Lucky. I missed the boat on the preorder. Would have been a nice knife to have.
 
I only preordered one. I bought another from eBay and a third from ww. It's my favorite knife with great steel. This knife isn't nearly as hard to find at a good price as the s90v one.
 
I will just reiterate that all 4 of my P2's have some slight lateral blade play that can't be tightened away w/o making the blade too tight to open/close freely as they are supposed to. I can only detect the lateral blade play by holding by the blade in one hand and the handle in the other and pushing the blade back and forth. However, imo, this lateral blade play is a total NON issue because it is UNDETECTABLE while actually using the knife to cut with. Therefore, I do not view it as a defect.

Regarding the blade grind and some of them being overly ground, I thought this was the case with one of mine because it was ground down a bit more than the other one very close to the choil area. However, I measured the width of the blade at various points going up towards the tip and found that it was very very close in width to the "good" one in the upper 80% of the blade length which is where most of the wear occurs, so again, it is a non issue to me.

I paid about $170 shipped for each of my two 20CP sprint P2's. I love the design and the 20CP steel. I consider them to be a fantastic value since they are by far the best folders overall that I've ever had the pleasure of using.
 
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I just paid 180 shipped from a dealer that's website said they had them in stock. Here goes nothing. I've bought from the dealer before with no problems just hoping their computer was correct in saying it was in stock being that they already have my money. :D:D:D:D Sold everything I did have to get an Umnumzaan and need a new spydie for everything I won't do with the Umnumzaan, which isn't much.
 
mongatu said:
I will just reiterate that all 4 of my P2's have some slight lateral blade play that can't be tightened away w/o making the blade too tight to open/close freely as they are supposed to. I can only detect the lateral blade play by holding by the blade in one hand and the handle in the other and pushing the blade back and forth. However, imo, this lateral blade play is a total NON issue because it is UNDETECTABLE while actually using the knife to cut with. Therefore, I do not view it as a defect.

Regarding the blade grind and some of them being overly ground, I thought this was the case with one of mine because it was ground down a bit more than the other one very close to the choil area. However, I measured the width of the blade at various points going up towards the tip and found that it was very very close in width to the "good" one in the upper 80% of the blade length which is where most of the wear occurs, so again, it is a non issue to me.

I paid about $170 shipped for each of my two 20CP sprint P2's. I love the design and the 20CP steel. I consider them to be a fantastic value since they are by far the best folders overall that I've ever had the pleasure of using.
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I agree they're a great value. I'm waiting for mine to get dull enough to warrant a sharpening. So far after several feet of cardboard and many, many ears of corn, plus everything else I've cut with it for the last month, it still shaves arm hair.
 
I must report with a very happy ending to my personal side-to-side blade-play story. I don't know why I didn't try this sooner. I have two little Kobalt torx drivers that I got from Lowe's a while ago. I just tightened both pivot screws at the same time, turning opposite directions and with some good amount of strength, was able to tighten the slight play that I could feel in both knives.

I had pretty much gotten over it and am actually selling one on the exchange right now but I'm happy to say I got the play out. I would like to say that I would prefer the slight resistance, similar to the Military pivot style, if it meant I could tighten my pivot down whenever the blade got loose like I can with my Military. I've used my Military more than any other knife I own and after some hard use the blade can get a little loose and I can tighten it down each time. It seems like a lot of these newer pivot styles on the Manix 2, and the Para 2 get to a point where they can't be tightened any more and the blades just stay loose.

I'd sacrifice ultimate smoothness for the ability to tighten my pivot, any day. That's just my opinion. I'm glad I was able to wrench the play out of my Gray Para 2's. :)
 
For the knives that get loose after hard use have you tried thread locker? I don't use loc tite much anymore, but use Teflon tape instead. You don't have to let it dry or worry about reapplying after adjustment. I also either over tighten the pivot screws or put horizontal pressure on the blade which helps 'seat' everything so that the blade doesn't get loose after some use.
 
I hope you guys aren't getting the wrong impression. I am not in this to get a free knife. I think Spyderco rules and I have a drawer full of them to prove it! In fact I bought a Delica today to give to my apprentice @ work. The P2 has basically retired all of my other EDC knives and I am in love with CTS-20CP. I just want my 20CP version that I lusted after for so long to be of the same quality as my other S30V P2s. I guess I am lucky in that my regular P2s have no blade play whatsoever(they have what I would term as lateral flexing). I guess I was spoiled by first 3 P2s. Based on how the blade moves it seems to me that the pivot bushing may be too big.
 
just to get this clear,

is there any vertical play once locked ?

is there enough lateral play you can feel it without holding the handle in one hand and the blade in the other ? like holing by the blade and moving it around ?

if so this may actualy be acceptable by most, what sounds very odd to me is the play you described when the blade is 90° to the handle, i've never seen this.

anyway just a thought for those who don't care a bladeplay on a user, more play than necessary to operate means, friction, wear, deformations if force is used ... a knife or any mecanism with play is more likely to wear faster than a perfectly adjusted one ... if you think it's acceptable on a brand new folder allright, but i'd accept more easily a flagrant F&F defect, a not so centered blade or a dull blade ootb than a knife that can't be correctly adjusted.
 
My S30V para 2 had blade play that I was able to tweak away. It has none now whatsover. My 20cp para does have some blade wobble that I can't tweak away. The wobble is undetectable in my use so far. The steel is the only thing that makes this blade wobble acceptable to me. My manix 2 has the same blade wobble, I don't like it and I don't use it.
 
singularity35 said:
My S30V para 2 had blade play that I was able to tweak away. It has none now whatsover. My 20cp para does have some blade wobble that I can't tweak away. The wobble is undetectable in my use so far. The steel is the only thing that makes this blade wobble acceptable to me. My manix 2 has the same blade wobble, I don't like it and I don't use it.
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Try what I did with two torx drivers at he same time. I just twisted both sides in opposite directions and was able to get the play out of both my Gray Para's I also was able to get most of it out of my Orange Manix 2.

I feel like they could have kept the Military style pivot and moved the pocket clip and everyone would be happy. I love the fact that I can tighten my Millie down as needed. It's rare that I even have to tighten the Military anyway so adding Teflon tape isn't necessary to me, yet.

If we were talking about vertical play, this would be a scary thread, I don't think anyone tolerates vertical play, well, most don't. SOG seems to not mind but that's a whole other story.
 
Undertow82 said:
Try what I did with two torx drivers at he same time. I just twisted both sides in opposite directions and was able to get the play out of both my Gray Para's I also was able to get most of it out of my Orange Manix 2.

I feel like they could have kept the Military style pivot and moved the pocket clip and everyone would be happy. I love the fact that I can tighten my Millie down as needed. It's rare that I even have to tighten the Military anyway so adding Teflon tape isn't necessary to me, yet.

If we were talking about vertical play, this would be a scary thread, I don't think anyone tolerates vertical play, well, most don't. SOG seems to not mind but that's a whole other story.
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Tried that on my manix 2 a long time ago. Didn't work. I guess I'll have to try that on the gray para. Thanks.
 
Singularity is another old timer I know and respect and he's saying the same thing. I guess I was just lucky in getting the knives I did. It's pretty much impossible for me to dismiss this as ultra picky buyers seeing some of the people here. Guys that are as, or more knowledgeable than I am.

Good luck to all, and continue trying for a resolution that satisfies you. Spyderco can usually be counted on to do the right thing once they know there are real problems. If Sal and company were uncaring people just out for a quick but it would have been apparent not years, but decades ago. I'm at about 20 years of Spyderco use and it's not because there are no other choices.

Things tend to work out for the best in the long run. One way or another.

Joe
 
singularity35 said:
Well, the para 1 wasn't known for a lot of lateral blade play. I have been saying that it's the bushing pivot that might be a bit problematic in regards to a tendency for lateral play.
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I wonder whether you haven't put your finger on it here? Between us, my sons and I have somewhere around a dozen and a half M2 and P2 knives. Only one or two have any lateral play, so while it's not common, it's not an illusion either. I wonder whether Spyderco hasn't yet quite mastered the manufacturing process for this relatively new design. Whatever the case, I'm sure Spyderco will figure it out, and although it's a little annoying, on the ones we have that have some lateral play, it's not an actual problem.
 
JNewell said:
I wonder whether you haven't put your finger on it here? Between us, my sons and I have somewhere around a dozen and a half M2 and P2 knives. Only one or two have any lateral play, so while it's not common, it's not an illusion either. I wonder whether Spyderco hasn't yet quite mastered the manufacturing process for this relatively new design. Whatever the case, I'm sure Spyderco will figure it out, and although it's a little annoying, on the ones we have that have some lateral play, it's not an actual problem.
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Yep, the lateral play is not really a problem in how the knife functions.
 
And just to be very clear, there is zero vertical blade play. In fact all of my 4 P2's have the most secure vertical lockup I've seen.

Another cool thing, imo at least, about the P2's is that, if not over tightened so the blade can no longer move freely, they can almost magically open themselves with a very gentle spyder drop that doesn't put any more stress on the lock mechanism than a regular slow thumb type of open. I can open mine by just pinching the blade against the handle so it moves past the detent and then gravity and the weight of the handle does the rest.
 
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