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- Aug 23, 2020
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Vilepossum hmm interesting ideas on the armor. I know back in the day when armor was worn for real that a lot of "boiled" leather was used for those that couldn't afford steel. I don't know the process though. My sheaths get hard but not that hard I guess. I don't want them to get soft I want them to stay firm. No the oil doesn't soften them up I don't put that much on.. You could over saturate it and get it soft. Also and I guess I should of mentioned this earlier I'm brushing on a very light coat. Particularly on a tooled sheath as the tooling seems to absorb more oil quicker.
I remembered this video:
And found a process for it:
First we buy (or make our own) gelatin (animal glue) which can be sold in sheets, granules, beads or powdered form. Sheets must be soaked in equal amount of water (it is unclear if it is by volume or weight, but there must be a recipe in most cook books) for half a day, and powder for a few hours. At this point we can raise the temperature to 30-40 degrees Celsius (!), this is the gelatinization temperature, when the gelatin will liquefy.
We can raise the temperature ideally to 60-70 degrees Celsius in a bain marie. Higher than that, and quality deteriorates.
We adjust viscosity by adding warm water. 50-35% dry matter content is the ideal range.
I don't know how long the leather should be soaked for best penetration, but that probably can be determined with some trial and error.
Forming the treated leather must be done quickly (or maybe in a hot environment), as the temperature drops, rigidity increases.