paper sharpening wheels - when your time is important to you

I've tried a micro fine green honing compound from Formax abrasives. It definitely isn't as abrasive as the white compound, but I didn't notice any significant improvement in sharpness.
 
I just did a few knives for a buddy of mine. A couple S30V, AUS8, and three D2 blades. He usually sharpens but he's been very busy lately and likes the way my paper-wheel-sharpened blades are. Hey, <shrug> no problems there. I find sharpening therapeutic anyway, even using the wheels. Well, I got them back to him today and he's flah-flah-flabbergasted! :D He's going to order a set from Woodcraft tomorrow. Looks like we may have another convert. :thumbup:
 
I bought a set of these about 1 1/2 yrs. ago. Gave them a shot. Sharpened a few kitchen knives, cleavers, etc.. They did OK for me but I wasn't too impressed overall and considered selling them off. Seemed like I had to recharge the grit too often and it wasn't really even. They did put an edge on an old camp knife that my grad dad made from a file and a butcher knife that was a pain to do on sticks or stones. That alone was worth the cost of the kit so I just put them on the shelf and forgot about them, until this past weekend.

I recharged the grit wheel. Came out perfect this time. I guess I just wasn't using enough glue. The recharge lasted through several knives and still looked good when I got finished. Lesson 1: USE PLENTY OF GLUE AND DON'T FORGET THE WAX.

I rotated the grinder to spin the wheels away from me. Wow! What an improvement. No problem seeing the burr. Even the tips look great. I'm lefty so I have found over the years that most things work better for me backwards. Lesson 2: IF ONE METHOD DOESN'T WORK, TRY ANOTHER

Glad I gave these another shot. They sure beat the clamp systems on long blades like chef's knives, fillet knifes, and butcher knives. My EDC pocket type knives and hunting knives usually do not get dull enough to require the wheels but I may try stropping them on the slotted wheel for touchups.
 
Hey, guys, I've got a story of sacrilege for you. I just reprofiled a knife on a *gasp* stone wheel! Stuck the knife inside the bench grinder housing and used the side of it. lol I needed a quick fix. It made me think of you guys though because it came out really good and took barely any time at all.

Is there anyway I could buy paper wheels for this thing? Or is there another tool in particular that I need to get that's more ideal than a bench grinder? I'm thinking of one of those hand-held grinders with the handle offset at 90 degrees and the flexible grinding wheels... As you can see though I don't have a clue what they're called.

Also, when using a paper wheel do you have to worry about the heat? I don't think I messed up the temper on the one I did today, but it got pretty hot to the touch. Wondering if that's because it was a stone or if it happens to paper wheels too.
 
kelbro,

Like anything else, I think patience is key. I also reversed the motor on my grinder and have it going away from me while I hold the knife horizontal. I'm basically on top of the knife, looking down on it.

I'm glad it worked out for you. I find that the slotted wheel is all I need for touch ups. The grit wheel comes out for reprofiling and edge repairs.


Kenny,

The only time I used a stone wheel was before I bought the paper wheels. Holy hell, did I screwed up the knife, I knew nothing of heat and just how quickly it ate my blade. The edge turned blue and I lost the temper. It also looked like crap and the angle was way off.

Very slow speeds and constant cooling will help. I saw some vids of water cooled stone wheels online and realized my mistake.

I'm still conscious of heat on the paper wheels but I've never had a blade heat up to a point where I couldn't hold it.
 
Hey, guys, I've got a story of sacrilege for you. I just reprofiled a knife on a *gasp* stone wheel! Stuck the knife inside the bench grinder housing and used the side of it. lol I needed a quick fix. It made me think of you guys though because it came out really good and took barely any time at all.

Is there anyway I could buy paper wheels for this thing? Or is there another tool in particular that I need to get that's more ideal than a bench grinder? I'm thinking of one of those hand-held grinders with the handle offset at 90 degrees and the flexible grinding wheels... As you can see though I don't have a clue what they're called.

Also, when using a paper wheel do you have to worry about the heat? I don't think I messed up the temper on the one I did today, but it got pretty hot to the touch. Wondering if that's because it was a stone or if it happens to paper wheels too.

I think if your grinder has a 5/8" arbor, then you can use paper wheels. I only use my bench grinder for reprofiling anyway, so I also use the stone/aluminum oxide wheels. They build up heat pretty quickly, so I've gotta move along quickly when I'm doing my passes. And when I switch to the other side, I dip the blade in cold water.
 
The Razor Sharp wheels come with a reducer so they can fit either 1/2" or 5/8" arbors. I've never overheated any edge yet and I think you really have to work at it to do so. If you're going roughly 4-5 times, repeatedly, on the edge than maybe, maybe you'll kill the h/t but I can't see that happening except in the beginning. You really shouldn't need to hit the edge that many times once you get good at the wheels.
 
Just spoke with RichardJ, who is a really helpful and friendly guy. I am going to go with the paper wheels and see if this ham-handed newbie can get a reasonably sharp edge.

I might be posting back for help but will give it a go.
 
Just spoke with RichardJ, who is a really helpful and friendly guy. I am going to go with the paper wheels and see if this ham-handed newbie can get a reasonably sharp edge.

I might be posting back for help but will give it a go.

Good luck! Just have some patience and I think you'll eventually get satisfactory results. :thumbup:
 
Richard J,

Im interested in these paper wheels, and have a couple questions, I'd also like to talk to you on the phone if thats ok, I dont want to put my phone number here, so if you can email me at ronsimko @ hotmail.com I'd be glad to send it to you, or you can send me yours and your availability.

thanks

Aaron
 
Another great use that I found for this set is the final stropping on the notched wheel. It will quickly 'finish' an edge that you get off the belt or stones.
 
kelbro, there are other uses for the slotted wheel if you work on guns. as an example, i used it to polish the sear on my 22 ruger pistol. its smooth as glass and a sweet shooter now.
 
You will have to forgive me if this has been discussed before....but there are 34 pages to this thread, lol.

My 3/4hp 8" bench grinder says it runs about 3500rpm. I have seen Richard_j say 1750rpm is what you need and that is what he uses, saw another post that said the paper work with the wheels say 3000-3600 is what you should run. Will I have any issues with mine turning 3500??

I have sent a email to richard_j too.
 
Don't think you will have any sharpening problems. One thing higher speed make is a small oops make for a bigger mistake. Also could be more heat with the higher speed if your not careful. Best of luck sharpening. You will like the paper wheel method.
 
You will have to forgive me if this has been discussed before....but there are 34 pages to this thread, lol.

My 3/4hp 8" bench grinder says it runs about 3500rpm. I have seen Richard_j say 1750rpm is what you need and that is what he uses, saw another post that said the paper work with the wheels say 3000-3600 is what you should run. Will I have any issues with mine turning 3500??

I have sent a email to richard_j too.
I run mine at 3450 RPM. You can control the cutting speed of the gritted wheel with more or less wax. Mine cuts at a decent enough speed to regrind a new tip on a knife. I'd say 80% of the wheel is covered with wax and I still haven't needed to recoat the wheel.
 
I have not been here long on this site, but I inquired about this paper wheel thingy, and Richard directed me here.

After three days of reading and catching up I have to say what a jewel you guys have on this forum. I live on the other side of the globe and I am fortunate that I have a few friends who are passionate about their specialty in woodwork and turning and are world class.

I do not know Richard, naturally, but you are all blessed to have someone so dedicated and committed to knife sharpening and to be prepared to share that knowledge with this forum's sharpening community.

Even though I am in Australia I have many contacts in the USA, One of my daughters is in L.A. at least three times a year and next week she is off to L.A and then new York. My other daughter lived in the USA for eight years mainly in Omaha, Nebraska, " Go, Big Red "

Next trip it is convenient for her I will get the paper wheels from Woodcraft at Stanton, Orange County L.A. The owner their is a terrific guy called Ingko,
he always delivers my special orders to my daughter's hotel when she is in town.

Pete
 
you can get with bernoulli who lives in oz for the wheels if you dont want to wait. he is a member here. if you want him to contact you, send me an email with your number.
 
today i talked a gentleman (joe) through his first time using the wheels. he works for another gentleman who owns a sharpening service in the midwest. i contacted the owner after a non member sent me a knife for sharpening that was not all that sharp. i called the owner and told him about the wheels and what they can do.

i told joe that after he gets used to using the wheels that he will probably be moving some equipment in the back room and setting up more wheels. after a few minutes on the wheels, joe said the wheels already saved him 2 steps in sharpening.

i have a feeling business is going to pick up considerably once customers spread the word about how sharp they got their knives. (i forgot to tell them to buy more bandaids to pass out to customers :D)
 
Back
Top