Hey RobertK, are you producing a definite burr when grinding? You should not only be able to see it along the full length of the blade, but also feel it. When I first started out, I was afraid of grinding away too much steel, and therefore was not producing a full burr along the length of the blade.
Once the burr is visible, you can turn the knife over and very lightly grind most of the burr off by alternating sides. The key is to use very light pressure and have plenty of wax on the wheel. When the burr is very light, then start on the slotted wheel, maintaining the same bevel angle. If all goes well, you should not have to strop the blade on any external strop. The key here is use light pressure while grinding, and produce a full length burr.
Once you get all this down correctly, it will all fall into place and your knives will be exceptionally sharp. I had a lady from my church that brought me her son's two knives, one a folder, the other a straight blade. (He is 15 years old) She said she wanted me to sharpen them, but not razor sharp. It was harder to not get them razor sharp than it was to do them naturally. I finally wound up taking some 2000 grit wet or dry sandpaper and lightly running the blades over it lightly dull the blades without making them too dull. I hated to return a knife that was not the best I could turn out, but Momma was the boss!
Hang in there, it will click for you soon.
Blessings,
Omar