paper sharpening wheels - when your time is important to you

clean the wheel with a small wire brush. that will get rid of any buildup and expose new grit. i have one about the size of a toothbrush with fine stainless wire. stay away from a real stiff wire or it will dig in and remove more than what you want.
 
i hate coatings on a knife. the companies coat knives to hide blemishes in the steel. coatings are cheaper than putting a nice finish on a blade.
 
Hey all,

Just got my wheels after a bit of a wait on shipping. Promptly tossed them on the HF 6" buffer i got to use them with and am disappointed to see that the grit wheel has some wobble to it, like its not totally flat. :( I was so ready to get going on these guys but i'm hesitant to use them as they are.

Is it an issue (it seems like its got to be)? Is there an easy fix?

I'm bummed that i opened a new package to run into this issue. Please help guys!
 
i'll give you a call. there are several things you can try that are posted in this thread but it will be quicker if i give you a call. one thing to try is flipping them around or rotating them on the shaft.
 
Thanks for the call richard, the factory said I should just give them a try and if they don't work they'll send a replacement, so i suppose that's what i'll do.
 
My grit wheel has a good wobble but i have learned to ignore it.I have mine on a Porter Cable 8 inch variable speed so i just adjust the speed to fix the vibration.
 
slower is always better with the wheels. i wish mike would change the directions to state that but grizzly imports might not like that since they sell 3400 rpm buffers. i think they should get some variable speed buffers in just for the wheels. i might see if mike would pass the word along to have them get in a good variable speed buffer.

you can lightly scrape the inside of the hole to make the wheel fit a little looser. sometimes this can allow the wheel to straighten up if the hole is not drilled plumb. the washers will straighten the wheel up but do not tighten the nut super tight. i usually snug the nut and let the wheel torque tighten the nut.
 
This item may cure your problem - have used them for years on my 1/2" shafts when using paper wheels. Baldor "pressed steel" thrust washers (3" diameter x 1/2" bore) for sure they are Baldor quality. Baldor part number HA6113SP. Their greater surface area, larger diameter and quality of manufacture are their merits, for sure a paper wheel users "best friend".

Purchased some a few weeks ago from Vollard Electric Equipment Corp. 716) 809 1230 (talk with Barb) they are located in Buffalo, NY. Baldor ships from Ft. Smith, Arkansas (their Factory).

Baldor offers a pressed steel thrust washer with a 5/8" bore, part number HA6115401SP.

Hope Richard and Mike read the above - for sure a problem solver for most paper wheel uses that have "lateral run out".

Let us all work and make year 2014 our best yet.


Thanks
 
i was talking to the local barber a couple days ago and we got on the subject of cutting hair. he said it takes a sharper knife to cut a hair crossways like treetopping than it does to whittle or split a hair. the straight razor i made for protourist treetops hairs and i can trim my beard just passing it down through it. the edge is not quite as thin as a normal razor and was easier for me to sharpen than a regular razor with the thicker .008 edge.
 
Wolff Industries offers a cheaper alternative. They take standard pressed flanges and machine them for flat true surfaces. About $4 each and you only need them on the inside where they bear on the shaft shoulder. Not is the catalog so phone them and ask about Blue Washers.

Baldor part number HA6113SP.
Baldor offers a pressed steel thrust washer with a 5/8" bore, part number HA6115401SP.
 
Mr. "B"

The "update"

Called 864) 587 - 0013 (Wolff) today in ref to the "blue flange" washers, Wolff part number 10201.

Their quote was $8.77 each.

The outside diameter is 2.07 inches.
 
the sawblade is solid m 4. the blanks on top are 1095 that H2Oknife waterjet cut out and gave me. i'm going to have some bullnose blanks cut from the saw blade but a hair longer. the middle blank is sitting on a laser cut blank that was done locally by a buddy. i'll never do that again.

the slotted wheel puts one hell of an edge on this stuff. freaky sharp is not even close to how the straight razor i made for protourist feels. i hardly touched my thumb and got bit. i'm getting ready to go in for surgery and i have an old stellite scalpel that i'm going to fix up. i'll tell her if she uses it (on me :D) i'll give it to her to hang up somewhere. stellite was used by the old time flat track racers. they used to pour molten stellite in the heels of their boots to keep from wearing them out fast. a buddy used to race when he was in his 20's and he's up there in years but i'm not sure how old he is. i'm not sure if he still has his boots or not but i'll see and send you some pictures.
 
the rc is 67 and yes it does take a few minutes. an edge that is .011 takes about 5 minutes to put a half convex edge on. the one i made protourist that was .008 took a few but i took my time on it. on some i'll take it down on the grit wheel before going to the belt sander. i profiled out 3 blanks and it took about 1 1/2 hours. i had to take a few breaks in between. that was cleaning the blue paint off too and getting what mill marks or dimples off the flats.

i was going to go to see the barber today but it is too darn cold. it is 7 below here but i'm not sure what it is now, the electric thermometer outside puked :D
 
I've only been sharpening my knives with paper wheels a couple months. I was impressed straight away, but feel I'm getting better with every blade I sharpen. I went and took a couple photo's this morning so I could post an edge in the " Edge Porn" thread that was sharpened on the wheels and thought this thread could use some pictures. I'd like to see some more photo's of others paper wheel edges.

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roostercrow, send me an email and i'll send you a link to something funny. its about "the edges done by the paper wheels"
 
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