pass-around contest!

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Sep 2, 2011
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I consider this a contest because there have been a lot of people who have contested my heat treatments so I am providing the steel which will be an 11 1/2" x 1 1/4" x 1/4" peice of 5160 steel from nj steel baron, to make a knife via stock removal NOT forging and give it your best heat treat.

First person up for taking the challenge must be able to finish the knife with in two months of recieving the steel. And this is a first come first serve deal. The pass around will be 8 people a total of 4 months. The knives will not be marked in any way, the last test will be done by the, knife maker, to destruction!

We will not be anounsing which knife is whos the only rules I have for the testers is.

1. No vises, no rocks, no bending, no throwing, no hammering (aka) metal to metal.

2. The passaround portion of this test is to show how good your heat treat is under what I consider camping or chore use.

3. Acceptable ways of testing include cutting paper, card board, manila rope, wood, meat. Also batoning, chopping, carving, and food prep.

4. Before the knife is sent out to the next tester please clean and resharpen the knife back to shaving sharp

5. Give a detailed review on which one was harder to sharpen back to shaving sharp and which one in you opinion held up better.

6. Take pictures of your testing or video and post them on this thread

7. Do not keep knives longer then two weeks.

8. When mailing the blades please insure each one for at least 150 $ a total of 300$

9. If any of these rules can not be met dont enter the passaround.

10. All forum passaround rules must be followed also. Which are posted right below this.

11. Edge will be a 40 degree angle 20 each side and sharpened to 1000 grit.

12. Blade length will be at least 6" long.

________________________________________________________________________________

These are the rules for the pass around forum.
By signing up for a pass-around, you agree to the following:The Short List:
1. Bladeforums.com is not reponsible for anything pertaining to this passaround.
2. I will ship the knife insured appropriately and within the designated timeframe and agree to replace it if lost.
3. I am over 18 years of age, and the knife involved in the passaround is legal to possess and carry in my jurisdiction.
*4. I understand that I am not exchanging money for any goods.
5. I agree to pass along the knife in the condition I received it, or better.
*6. If I violate any of these rules, I will be banned and not allowed to participate in any more passarounds. I also understand that my name, address, and contact information will be posted as a warning to prevent others from being scammed.
------------------------------------------More Complete Passaround forum rules:By agreeing to take part in any passaround posted on Bladeforums, I agree to the following conditions:
1. I release BladeForums.com, it's members, etc from any liability that results from my participating in this passaround. This includes any damages that may result from using, abusing, or testing the passaround knife.
2. I agree that I will have the passaround knife for a set period of days as specified in the passaround thread, then send it to the next person on the list, at my expense. I agree that postage and insurance are my responsibility and that should the knife fail to reach the next member of the list, it is my responsibility to replace it.
3. I agree that should I fail to live up to my obligations in this passaround, I will be banned and my personal information will be published so that others will have "fair warning". This will be left up to the discretion of the moderators. Remember that participation in the passarounds is a priveledge and can be revoked at any time.
4. I affirm that I am over 18 years of age, and that the knife involved in the passaround is legal to possess and carry in my jurisdiction. By choosing to participate in paid passarounds, I agree that the money being sent is not in exchange for any good or service and I agree to release BladeForums.com, it's members, etc from any liability for the loss of the funds invested in the passaround if the knife is lost or destroyed.When sending the knife, I will send by a method that requires signature confirmation and insure the package for an amount equal to or greater than the replacement cost of the knife. I acknowledge that this will be more expensive and bear the sole responsibility for these costs. I will carefully package the knife / item with all seams taped and the item secured wrapped within the package.*(USPS is considered to be the cheapest and fastest service for mailing a passaround knife, however UPS is faster on claim service).I will make the best effort to pass along the knife in as good of condition as possible, if not better. If the blade is dull and I feel confident in your sharpening skills, I will put a fresh edge on the knife before I send it along. I will clean any grime or residue off the blade before passing it along.*In the event the knife is broken, fails, or is otherwised destroyed, I will immediately contact whoever is in charge of the passaround.*If the knife has failed due to defect, I will arrange to have the knife returned for warranty service.*If the knife failed due to abuse that is not covered by the warranty, it is my responsibility to replace the knife.*It is *my* responsiblity for getting the knife to the next person on the list.By participating in the passaround, I agree to adhere to the above posted rules, and any violation of the rules will cause my membership at Bladeforums.com to be revoked. I also understand that if I am a Gold, Premium, Knifemaker, or Dealer member, and my membership is revoked, I will not be entitled to any refunds of said membership fees.This list is an addendum to the user agreement found at*http://www.bladeforums.com/

Official testers:

1. William courtney
2. Steve ballew
3. Joe calton
4. Donald lawson
5. Craig wilson
 
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This looks like it will be interesting. I read your other post also. I'd like to be a tester. Have never worked with 5160 and would like to see what I'm missing.
 
I would like to make and submit a knife but don't care to be a tester. Let me know if this is acceptable or not.
 
Not sure what you mean by "paid" pass around, if your talking about shipping to the next tester then that's cool and I'd love for a chance to be a tester. Sounds like fun and should be informative, I might even learn something.
 
yes this means you will pay all expensies to send it, insure it, clean it, and sharpen it.

and if you are willing to test send me an email with full name, address, phone#, and email.

to this email chadstenger@gmail.com
 
I know if I was in it, being a competition and all... I would want to put MY edge on it before each tester tested it. What if some of the testers dont sharpen as well as other and that hinders some peoples experience with the knife? And yea Darrin Said He wants to play.
 
I might be interested in submitting a knife, for the purpose to compare what a newbie can make with basic equipment, and following a "textbook" heat treat for a 1st 5160 knife. More for shits and giggles to compare a 1st attempt to an experienced maker. I am not planning any trips to the cabin soon, so my ability to be a tester is limited.
 
I know if I was in it, being a competition and all... I would want to put MY edge on it before each tester tested it. What if some of the testers dont sharpen as well as other and that hinders some peoples experience with the knife? And yea Darrin Said He wants to play.

It does seem like edge geometry would be a major role in this scenario. I've never worked with 5160, otherwise I'd do it.
 
It does seem like edge geometry would be a major role in this scenario. I've never worked with 5160, otherwise I'd do it.

BIG TIME!! If someone puts a high grit acute angle on it, it might not hold up as well through the testing or chopping. You could have edge chip out that has nothing to do with it being properly heat treated or not, and more to do with the wrong type of edge for the job kinda thing.
 
Sounds interesting. Maybe you should make it a rule that both knives are made from the same pattern, same geometry, and same edge angle/grit. That is the only way to truly test the heat treat. All things must be equal.
 
i am not so much worried about geometry we will be using the same peice of steel which is 11.5" x 1.25" x .25". there is no much play room there you can only do so much with it. other than that the knife will be of the makers choice.

rule # 12. blade length must be at least 6" that is cutting edge only.
 
when you get a chance i would like it if you and i would post our heat treats on this thread

Yes, I wanna be your competition. I would like to say that 1&1/4" wide steel wouldn't be my first choice for a camp/chopper but I will go with it anyway. I also prefer a full flat grind with a convex edge but I guess I can do a 20 degree bevel. I'd like to keep the H/T procedure to myself until the winner is chosen. I promise you that it wont take 11 days and wont include freezer cycles. All thermal cycling, hardening, and tempering will be done in one day. Let me knwo what you think.
 
i am not so much worried about geometry we will be using the same peice of steel which is 11.5" x 1.25" x .25". there is no much play room there you can only do so much with it.

I completely disagree. A chisel grind, hollow, convex, full flat, saber, scandi would ALL cut differently for different tasks. A hollow grind isn't even in the same ball park as a convex when chopping and the convex wouldn't be able to compete with a hollow grind when shaving.

A hollow grind might break or chip when chopping, but that doesn't mean the heat treat was bad, only that the geometry is not suited for it. It's not my test, but I would certainly suggest that everything is identical. You aren't testing which grind and tip shape works best, but which heat treat is best. For that, all things have to be identical. For that matter, you might want to grind two blades the same and send one to Darren to heat treat. That way you will know that both blades are equal except for the HT.
 
I completely disagree. A chisel grind, hollow, convex, full flat, saber, scandi would ALL cut differently for different tasks. A hollow grind isn't even in the same ball park as a convex when chopping and the convex wouldn't be able to compete with a hollow grind when shaving.

A hollow grind might break or chip when chopping, but that doesn't mean the heat treat was bad, only that the geometry is not suited for it. It's not my test, but I would certainly suggest that everything is identical. You aren't testing which grind and tip shape works best, but which heat treat is best. For that, all things have to be identical. For that matter, you might want to grind two blades the same and send one to Darren to heat treat. That way you will know that both blades are equal except for the HT.
Right on:thumbup:

Also need a 'text book' heat treated blade serves as a baseline/control.
 
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