Pistol/dagger project

jacqueeagonsr said:
maybe I ask too many - you're probably about ready to test your pistol on me!!

hammer and trigger - O1 steel - - - do you heat treat them or just use the steel as it comes from the factory??

Spring steels - could you offer a discussion on you opinions - 5160 is probably the most famous - used in car springs for a hundred years - you don't seem to be too fond of Brownell's - 1095 is your second choice, but, it's given to you, it appears, by a friend. What's your best choice and why??

I thought the tempering temperature of 666 was interesting - - - the 'number of the beast' - Revelation 13:18 - wanna address that? (or am I opening a can of worms??)

Regards,
Jacque
Click to expand...
You ask good questions and I enjoy talking about this stuff.

The 01 is soft and easy to work and is also precision thickness. It saves me the trouble of surface grinding to arrive at a standard thickness. As is its too soft to work in the sear area and would quickly round off with use resulting in "hair trigger" or wont cock at all so therefore it needs to be hardened and tempered. Some gun makers will case harden mild steel with great results but I like the O1 because I can grind it and shape it after its heat treated. Case hardening is only a few thousands thick and can be ground through in a heartbeat.

5160 is a good steel for springs but I have come to love 1095 for these pistol springs. Dan always keeps me supplied with his scrap 1095. I machine and grind the spring to finished size and heat it in my Even Heat oven to about 700f and dip it in PBC anti-scale and ramp it up to 1450 for about 3 minutes and very quickly quench it in Parks 50 oil. Then cool my oven down to 666 (667) will work, to temper it. It only needs to soak for about 30 minutes or so. Next the spring needs to be sanded and polished before tested. No stress risers or nicks are allowed because thats where it will break.

666 is the devils number and easy to remember. No bible thumping here but I am always thankful to God when a spring works.:)
 
Whew! I spent all weekend on these shell pommels. They still need some final sanding and polishing but for now there done.
100_0994_edited.jpg

I used round files, the dremel with cone shaped stones, cratex polishing burrs, the scotchbrite wheel, buffer and hand sanding.
100_1022_edited.jpg

I need to counter-bore the mounting holes deeper
Sorry for the flash in the photos but later they will show up better. I hope.
 
Last edited:
Here are the spacers just ahead of the shells. These will give a good transition for the handle scales. Both the front bolsters and these rear spacers will be grooved to match. They are drilled and pinned with the same drill bit used as the pin.
100_1024_edited.jpg


100_1028_edited.jpg
 
bruce.....i know you are the master designer here.......but a quick question....why the screws in the shells.....is it a feature like a take down that they have to be removed for cleaning...without seeing the piece i would think it would be cleaner looking without the screws......don't take it the wrong way....i was just wondering if they need to be there.....ryan
 
ryan9977 said:
bruce.....i know you are the master designer here.......but a quick question....why the screws in the shells.....is it a feature like a take down that they have to be removed for cleaning...without seeing the piece i would think it would be cleaner looking without the screws......don't take it the wrong way....i was just wondering if they need to be there.....ryan
Click to expand...

It is a "take down" gun. Everything is bolted together and can be dissasembled for cleaning and servicing. They also hold both liners in place at the pommel end. I agree it would be cleaner without screws and if this were a knife it can be done but its a gun and needs screws.
 
thanks for the answer bruce....can you tell i'm not a gun person:D......can't wait to see more!.....ryan
 
100_1029_edited.jpg


Heres the latest. I put a musket nipple in place of the standard #11. It has a cap that is large and easy to handle plus has the benefit of larger threads and doubles as a brass breach plug. The musket cap stays in one piece when fired unlike the smaller #11 that explodes and scatters fragments of copper sometimes embedding them into my hand. The disadvantage is the spring is now too weak. I never liked that spring anyway, besides looking like a cotter pin I just cant make it stronger so I will make a new one next week from Dans 1095.

I also have the front and rear bolsters finished.

It is just a couple days away from sending it off for the engraving.

Our daughter graduates from High School next week so I may not get back to it until after that. Got a big BBQ planned.
100_1030_edited.jpg
 
Last edited:
Shit!!!!!!
I just can't come up with the words!
You are unbelievable Bruce!!!!!!
This thing is gonna be the Mona Lisa of knife guns by the time you're finished with it!
 
Thanks michael. I like a cuss word compliment:D

Im undecided on handle materials and finishes. I'm thinking about color-case hardening on the front and rear bolsters and the barrel. The frame and blade would be hand rubbed satin steel. I like pre-ban ivory but I think this one needs some color. Do you think amber dyed stag would look good? How about value? Ivory seems to put a piece in a higher value bracket than anything else.
What do you guys think?
 
I'd go with some mammoth with nice bark or the ivory. Especially if you could get some simple scrimshaw done on it. It really is just beautiful!
 
TekSec said:
I'd go with some mammoth with nice bark or the ivory. Especially if you could get some simple scrimshaw done on it. It really is just beautiful!
Click to expand...

Thanks Eric
As for the scrim on mammoth it would have to be very light cream colored, which you dont see much mammoth that color. It would look good with scrim around the borders of the ivory and leave some bark in the middle. :thumbup:
 
My vote would be some colored bark mammoth with a framed checkering design on it for the scales,otherwise the scrolled scrim like on Deadwood would look really cool also.

She is looking awesome ,my hat is off to you..


Tell your daughter congrats on graduating...

Bruce
 
Phenomenal! Just absolutely phenomenal.

Have you thought about gem stone? Something like lapis lazuli might be nice. Black coral would look really cool too, if you could find pieces big enough. Although a bit less exotic, a picturesque jasper with striated earth-tones would perhaps be more native (of N Amer). Maybe none of this stuff would be appropriately period, if that's a concern, or technically feasible, but as far as color goes they'd be dynamic, and likely not compromise value.

Thanks sooooo much for taking the extra time sharing your processes of creative genius.

Congrats to your daughter. Enjoy your BBQ!

All the best, Phil
 
Good suggestions so far. It's interesting to hear what others visualize. I have worked on this for a couple months so far and am almost tired of looking at it.
The scrim on the Deadwood handles is really engraved on. A good engraver can use the same tools on soft materials too. Its nice and deep.
You know how mammoth ivory is ground away and sanded smooth around the edges when fitting to the frame, I think a nice engraved border on light colored ivory would give this thing some style. The scales with the darker bark colors in the field but cream colored and engraved around the edges. Whew! I like it.
 
bruce.....if i could bother you for a pic request....can u take a pic of the gun in take down position when it's almost done.....i'd be curious to see what comes off and how you clean it......thanks....if it's too much trouble don't worry about it.....ryan
 
ryan9977 said:
bruce.....if i could bother you for a pic request....can u take a pic of the gun in take down position when it's almost done.....i'd be curious to see what comes off and how you clean it......thanks....if it's too much trouble don't worry about it.....ryan
Click to expand...

No problem. It is easy to dissasemble but not in the field :D

I need input from you guys on filework too. It has liners that may look good with some petite pattern all the way around. What is the real feeling about filework? I generally leave it off but this one is fairly plain as there is no damascus patterns to complicate things so maybe it needs filework?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top