Ranking of Steels in Categories based on Edge Retention cutting 5/8" rope

I am completely satisfied that Cruwear, XHP, and PSF27 all have similar performance.
I've returned to using my B75P Mule in the kitchen because the S110V mule had issues when banged into cutting boards.
I guess wear resistance isn't my prime consideration in the kitchen...
 
Fancier said:
I am completely satisfied that Cruwear, XHP, and PSF27 all have similar performance.
I've returned to using my B75P Mule in the kitchen because the S110V mule had issues when banged into cutting boards.
I guess wear resistance isn't my prime consideration in the kitchen...
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What kind of issues so I know what to look for.
Also, it wasn't any of these glass cutting boards by any chance?
 
Jens Schuetz said:
What kind of issues so I know what to look for.
Also, it wasn't any of these glass cutting boards by any chance?
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My cutting boards are made of food contact grade high density polyethylene. If I sliced gently and carefully the edge stayed intact (no shiny spots) but if cut fibrous vegetables like carrots and the knife slipped and hit the cutting board then shiny spots developed. I'm getting balanced performance (stays sharp and has impact resistance) with alloys like XHP and B75P with the hardness above 60.
Your mileage may vary, no warranty express or implied.
 
Fancier said:
My cutting boards are made of food contact grade high density polyethylene. If I sliced gently and carefully the edge stayed intact (no shiny spots) but if cut fibrous vegetables like carrots and the knife slipped and hit the cutting board then shiny spots developed. I'm getting balanced performance (stays sharp and has impact resistance) with alloys like XHP and B75P with the hardness above 60.
Your mileage may vary, no warranty express or implied.
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Thank you.
Cool. Got similar boards.
Carrots are the worst. Lots of resistance at first and then the sudden break through slams the blade into the board.
I try to do at at an angle but still.
Good that you found a steel for that. Any idea if there are some kitchen knifes made out of it?
My best one so far is made of cryo hardened X50CrMoV15 (56hrc).
 
Fancier said:
My cutting boards are made of food contact grade high density polyethylene. If I sliced gently and carefully the edge stayed intact (no shiny spots) but if cut fibrous vegetables like carrots and the knife slipped and hit the cutting board then shiny spots developed. I'm getting balanced performance (stays sharp and has impact resistance) with alloys like XHP and B75P with the hardness above 60.
Your mileage may vary, no warranty express or implied.
Click to expand...

One question: did you have your S110V blade tested for hardness? I have a certain idea... ;)
 
daberti said:
One question: did you have your S110V blade tested for hardness? I have a certain idea... ;)
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Don't tell me. My s110v Native is also very easy to sharpen while everybody else complains how tough it is. Maybe I should do the carrot test on it as well?
 
daberti said:
What sharpening media do you use?
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Just the edge pro with its water stones. Nothing too fancy with diamonds or the like.
Now it could be that I'm just not skilled enough to tell when something is harder to sharpen. Afterall the s110v is my only supersteel I have. But how some people make it sound it should take hours to get sharp.
 
Jens Schuetz said:
Just the edge pro with its water stones. Nothing too fancy with diamonds or the like.
Now it could be that I'm just not skilled enough to tell when something is harder to sharpen. Afterall the s110v is my only supersteel I have. But how some people make it sound it should take hours to get sharp.
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Just take a look here http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1168429-LionSteel-Steels?p=14029799#post14029799

Shortly: my idea is that you and Fancier are experiencing in flesh the common practices for highly alloyed supersteels in production made blades: ie. low austenitizing temperatures, no deep cryo= to much undissolved carbides and Retained Austenite= edge instability.
BTW: RA is easy to sharpen ;)
 
I can personally attest to my manix and mule having great edge stability through cardboard and hard wood. Jim's test includes one .005" behind the edge.
 
In this case (and high alloy in general) - Edge instability most likely due to sharpen using soft abrasives (water stones - i.e. Alumina/AlO type) in 12um or smaller sizes (1K grit or finer).

Abrasive at sub 12um no longer effectively plough through the blade matrix & hard carbides(VC, WC @2+um in sizes) cleanly together. But abrading bias toward softer material/matrix, leaving less matrix to support protruding carbides at apex. Analogous to 'receding teeth' symptom ;)

Jens Schuetz said:
Just the edge pro with its water stones. Nothing too fancy with diamonds or the like.
Now it could be that I'm just not skilled enough to tell when something is harder to sharpen. Afterall the s110v is my only supersteel I have. But how some people make it sound it should take hours to get sharp.
Click to expand...
 
daberti said:
Just take a look here http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1168429-LionSteel-Steels?p=14029799#post14029799

Shortly: my idea is that you and Fancier are experiencing in flesh the common practices for highly alloyed supersteels in production made blades: ie. low austenitizing temperatures, no deep cryo= to much undissolved carbides and Retained Austenite= edge instability.
BTW: RA is easy to sharpen ;)
Click to expand...
I would say that sounds very plausible but if its a systemic symptom then surely lots of knife nuts would have noticed that the super steel performs less than not super steels?
In light edc use edge retention on my s110v native is right between my 154CM barrage and my D2 Adamas. Both not really super steels.
For all the other guys I hope the S110v I got is a fluke. Or maybe it gets harder after more metal is removed?
 
Hmmm... Somebody might be putting words in my mouth. Both of my S110V knives cut cardboard like a dream, but my kitchen use involves more banging around and that seems to make a difference. I've found that the edge of the cardboard recycling bin (also plastic) is an edge killer during high speed impacts as well.
 
Jens Schuetz said:
I would say that sounds very plausible but if its a systemic symptom then surely lots of knife nuts would have noticed that the super steel performs less than not super steels?
In light edc use edge retention on my s110v native is right between my 154CM barrage and my D2 Adamas. Both not really super steels.
For all the other guys I hope the S110v I got is a fluke. Or maybe it gets harder after more metal is removed?
Click to expand...

Why not getting this http://www.flexbar.com/shop/pc/HARDNESS-TESTING-FILE-SET-26p5383.htm, I've just ordered one myself on their ebay store.
By no means NOT an ultimate hardness tester, but it could give you an idea of HRC of your knife and, known the steel, you could draw your own conclusions ;)

@Fancier
;)
 
Fancier said:
Hmmm... Somebody might be putting words in my mouth. Both of my S110V knives cut cardboard like a dream, but my kitchen use involves more banging around and that seems to make a difference. I've found that the edge of the cardboard recycling bin (also plastic) is an edge killer during high speed impacts as well.
Click to expand...
But then not so super steels do better banging around? If so is that normal or would a differently treated super steel do better in the kitchen?
 
Fancier said:
Hmmm... Somebody might be putting words in my mouth. Both of my S110V knives cut cardboard like a dream, but my kitchen use involves more banging around and that seems to make a difference. I've found that the edge of the cardboard recycling bin (also plastic) is an edge killer during high speed impacts as well.
Click to expand...
I apologize if you thought that of my post. I was just throwing my experience in the mix, not trying to discount anybody else's experience.
 
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