Ranking of Steels in Categories based on Edge Retention cutting 5/8" rope

Call me crazy but I would like to see more examples of CPM-20CV
and
just for comparison (sink or swim) a ceramic blade (or if you want to really loose it one white one black). I know . . . it is going to get all chipped up trying to sharpen to 400 grit and needs to be diamond no less. Maybe just do what ever works best for that and throw it in the deep end I say.

I’m still trying to get over CTS-XHP out performing ZDP-189 that’s just wrong.
I know it’s right
but
that’s just wrong.
If you know what I mean. :)
 
I would also like to see more testing of CPM 20CV blades. I am quite surprised at the difference in cuts between 20CV and S90V, would have thought the S90V would have a higher number of cuts in the less polished edge.
 
The Boye Basic 3 dendritic cobalt would not fit in this so well I would expect 8000 cuts based on 2000 cuts of 1 inch manila. Really who has all day to do 8000 cuts?
 
navman said:
I would also like to see more testing of CPM 20CV blades. I am quite surprised at the difference in cuts between 20CV and S90V, would have thought the S90V would have a higher number of cuts in the less polished edge.
Click to expand...

Geometry will have a rather large effect on performance.
 
Nice result from the rwl 34 mule, glad to see its in the 61-62 rc range. Jim do you gave the 4v mule? Id be interested to see how that does in your tests. Thank you for your hard work.
 
d00mtr33 said:
Nice result from the rwl 34 mule, glad to see its in the 61-62 rc range. Jim do you gave the 4v mule? Id be interested to see how that does in your tests. Thank you for your hard work.
Click to expand...


Haven't see the 4V Mule Team yet, one day I suppose. :)
 
Good Lord !!!

Thank you for sharing all these wisdom to my minuscule brain.....,now i will make my Emersons cut like laser (they're cutting like scalpes tough !!!!).

So for what i understand toothie edge last longer but not as sharp as polished,wich doesn hold its edge as much !!!

Enter Rockstead,my God these knives are out of this world......otstanding performance out of the box !!!

Excellent post,makes me go to buy various knives of the same model to try which angle and grit its better for my needs and applications.

Thank you very much for taking the time,for lending the knives and for keep the passion alive.

God Bless.
 
Really who has all day to do 8000 cuts?
Click to expand...
sounds like a team effort.
nah, I know . . . too much variation in technique person to person.
Robotics anyone ?
There must be some one here who works with piezoelectric touch sensing end effectors that could set up a one armed metal man for some rope cutting.
 
Jim,

I tried to PM you but it said the message was too long so I'm putting it here.

I am a toothy illiterate. Illiterate about tooth lore.
Would you please give me a link that talks about when you changed in the rope cutting tests to 400grit rather than polished?
I have spent a huge amount of time looking through this thread and thought I was getting close around page 40 but went back many pages and didn't see the point where you made the change discussed.

And or a link to the better how-to-creating-toothy-edges threads. I have two identical, thin, fixed blades and will keep one ~8000 polished and one toothy.

Part of this relates to my Manix 2 CPM-S110V Light Weight that I just got. It is toothy and I have not changed it since I got it. I am considering keeping it as received. Since I felt that it wasn't all that sharp when I got it, good but not great, I took it down a rough side up leather strop a few times with marginal improvement. I am wondering, from what I read some time ago, if it would be best to go over a coarse diamond plate really lightly to touch it up or go to a finer diamond. Keeping it toothy.
or
500 Shapton on the Edge Pro then a rough strop ?

I am resisting the urge to just do my regular MO on the Edge Pro to mirror.

Hope you are doing well.
Thanks
 
Wowbagger said:
Jim,

I tried to PM you but it said the message was too long so I'm putting it here.

I am a toothy illiterate. Illiterate about tooth lore.
Would you please give me a link that talks about when you changed in the rope cutting tests to 400grit rather than polished?
I have spent a huge amount of time looking through this thread and thought I was getting close around page 40 but went back many pages and didn't see the point where you made the change discussed.

And or a link to the better how-to-creating-toothy-edges threads. I have two identical, thin, fixed blades and will keep one ~8000 polished and one toothy.

Part of this relates to my Manix 2 CPM-S110V Light Weight that I just got. It is toothy and I have not changed it since I got it. I am considering keeping it as received. Since I felt that it wasn't all that sharp when I got it, good but not great, I took it down a rough side up leather strop a few times with marginal improvement. I am wondering, from what I read some time ago, if it would be best to go over a coarse diamond plate really lightly to touch it up or go to a finer diamond. Keeping it toothy.
or
500 Shapton on the Edge Pro then a rough strop ?

I am resisting the urge to just do my regular MO on the Edge Pro to mirror.

Hope you are doing well.
Thanks
Click to expand...

Can't remember the actual post, but it was decided from extensive testing that I changed to coarse edge testing due to various reasons.

Accuracy was the main reason a long with the massive difference in performance that I saw.

Also it gave me more information so I could add in variations of geometry, thickness behind the edge.

About sharpening....

Just 500 grit or so and a bare leather strop to debur the edge.

Nothing fancy is needed.
 
Last edited:
Jim,
I've been taking my edges to around 800 grit dmt guided on s90,110v,10v & K390, and a few light passes (4each side) on 1000 grit by hand just to help with the debur and then going to the leather. From reading your last post I take it I am taking it too high on the grit. Is that correct? Am I loosing carbides that would allow my knives to cut longer by doing this routine? Thank you for your time!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
martinsanders said:
Jim,
I've been taking my edges to around 800 grit dmt guided on s90,110v,10v & K390, and a few light passes (4each side) on 1000 grit by hand just to help with the debur and then going to the leather. From reading your last post I take it I am taking it too high on the grit. Is that correct? Am I loosing carbides that would allow my knives to cut longer by doing this routine? Thank you for your time!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

You are loosing aggressiveness (Bite) faster.

Try 400 grit or so yourself.

All depends on what you like I suppose.
 
Great discussion & questions! I for one have been polishing my knife edges, thinking more is better. Thanks to this amazing thread, I'm seeing the light.

Now I am realizing why I sometimes think my duller feeling blades are cutting better than my polished blades.

I wonder if I was overly influenced by the 1000's of YouTube videos showing cutting newspaper. Come to think of it, I've never used a knife to cut newspaper except for checking the "sharpness". Could it be that "sharpness" vs "cutting ability" are not one and the same?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
MAD777 said:
Great discussion & questions! I for one have been polishing my knife edges, thinking more is better. Thanks to this amazing thread, I'm seeing the light.

Now I am realizing why I sometimes think my duller feeling blades are cutting better than my polished blades.

I wonder if I was overly influenced by the 1000's of YouTube videos showing cutting newspaper. Come to think of it, I've never used a knife to cut newspaper except for checking the "sharpness". Could it be that "sharpness" vs "cutting ability" are not one and the same?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I can get the knives just as sharp at 400 grit as I can 6,000 grit, that's measured sharpness.
 
MAD77,

I for one have been polishing my knife edges, thinking more is better.
Click to expand...

From the woodworking world and just fooling around with polishing the edge because it looks great . . . I too have been obsessed with polish. I will keep on with many of them but I am learning there are good reasons to stay coarse.

Some of both I think.
 
Jim,

Just 500 grit or so and a bare leather strop to debur the edge.

Nothing fancy is needed.
Click to expand...

:thumbup:

I really appreciate your help and work here.
And from reading those early posts I was floored at the investment you have made. Wow. Glad you added the custom mades. Really opens a person's eyes as to what is possible with attention to the details and or "taking it to the edge" as it were.
THANKS !
 
Wowbagger said:
Jim,



:thumbup:

I really appreciate your help and work here.
And from reading those early posts I was floored at the investment you have made. Wow. Glad you added the custom mades. Really opens a person's eyes as to what is possible with attention to the details and or "taking it to the edge" as it were.
THANKS !
Click to expand...

Just more information added in as a general guide to what is possible. :)
 
Hey Jim, is there any difference in edge quality between using SiC, diamond, CBN, ceramics at 400 grit or is it just the speed in steel removal for high vanadium steel?
 
DeadboxHero said:
Hey Jim, is there any difference in edge quality between using SiC, diamond, CBN, ceramics at 400 grit or is it just the speed in steel removal for high vanadium steel?
Click to expand...


Have to pay attention the actual micron level, they should be pretty close.

Not a fan of diamonds personally.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top