Ranking of Steels in Categories based on Edge Retention cutting 5/8" rope

Is the regrind on that manix 2 s110v practical for everyday use? I have one and I always thought it could be a little thinner I'm just skeptical about getting it done. I've never had anything reprofiled and I'm not very good at that stuff myself.
 
coldmrk said:
Is the regrind on that manix 2 s110v practical for everyday use? I have one and I always thought it could be a little thinner I'm just skeptical about getting it done. I've never had anything reprofiled and I'm not very good at that stuff myself.
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Well, it depends on what your normal use is, .005" behind the edge is VERY thin...

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Compared to the Native 5 in S110V (.030") and S110V Mule team (.015")....

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But yes, cutting things it's fine, here is about 3/4 Mile of cardboard that was cut, that's 3800 ft , 1266 yards of cardboard and it would still slice printer paper. That's with no edge damage, chips, rolls etc......

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I see Bento Box has a PM2 coming out in Elmax. How does that rate steel wise to others out there like m390, s110v and cts-204p?

I am asking cause they want $200 for one so is it worth it? The PM2 with cts-204p was only $150! :)

Thx.
 
sir_mike said:
I see Bento Box has a PM2 coming out in Elmax. How does that rate steel wise to others out there like m390, s110v and cts-204p?

I am asking cause they want $200 for one so is it worth it? The PM2 with cts-204p was only $150! :)

Thx.
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They are all listed in the 1st post. :)
 
Ankerson said:
But yes, cutting things it's fine, here is about 3/4 Mile of cardboard that was cut, that's 3800 ft , 1266 yards of cardboard and it would still slice printer paper. That's with no edge damage, chips, rolls etc......
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Ummm...do you need some kind of federal permit to cut that much cardboard/make that much trash??? :D
 
JNewell said:
Ummm...do you need some kind of federal permit to cut that much cardboard/make that much trash??? :D
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Nope, as long as I can fit it into my bin it's fine. :D

I had to stop because I realized that it would never end, I already had 3 hours of cutting in at that point.... :eek:
 
Hi Jim,

Did you see my post at the end of page 87?

I would love to see an elmax para tested. Thanks.
 
Ankerson said:
Well, it depends on what your normal use is, .005" behind the edge is VERY thin...
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Where do you measure the thickness? Where the end of the bevel close to the edge is?

If that's where it's measured, my ZT 560 that I reprofiled comes in at 0.035. To get that down to 0.005 is SUPER thin. Or am I missing something?
 
Folderguy said:
Where do you measure the thickness? Where the end of the bevel close to the edge is?

If that's where it's measured, my ZT 560 that I reprofiled comes in at 0.035. To get that down to 0.005 is SUPER thin. Or am I missing something?
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At the top of the edge bevel.

Most production knives are in the .025" to .035" range....

A normal piece of 20 LB printer paper is about .004" to .005" thick.....
 
Ankerson said:
At the top of the edge bevel.

Most production knives are in the .025" to .035" range....

A normal piece of 20 LB printer paper is about .004" to .005" thick.....
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Thank you.

I think I'm missing something. If you take a thick bladed knife, or even a relatively thick bladed knife like the ZT 560, is it possible to get an .005 edge on it?

Here's a photo I just took of the unpolished edge on this knife.



The section I have circled measures 0.095" long from the edge of the blade to to top of the grind/bevel. The thickness at the top of the grind/bevel is 0.035. The photo is not very good, but the edge is a convex grind. Is it possible to get that 0.005 thick edge on a thicker bladed knife like this one? By the way, this edge shaves very fine wrist hair effortlessly.

Next question: is it even worthwhile trying to get a superfine edge on a knife like this one, which definitely is not a slicer, even though it slices tolerably well?
 
Folderguy said:
Thank you.

I think I'm missing something. If you take a thick bladed knife, or even a relatively thick bladed knife like the ZT 560, is it possible to get an .005 edge on it?

Here's a photo I just took of the unpolished edge on this knife.



The section I have circled measures 0.095" long from the edge of the blade to to top of the grind/bevel. The thickness at the top of the grind/bevel is 0.035. The photo is not very good, but the edge is a convex grind. Is it possible to get that 0.005 thick edge on a thicker bladed knife like this one? By the way, this edge shaves very fine wrist hair effortlessly.

Next question: is it even worthwhile trying to get a superfine edge on a knife like this one, which definitely is not a slicer, even though it slices tolerably well?
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You just can't regrind any blade down that thin, you have to take into consideration the steel, the Hardness of the steel and the intended use of the knife.

Most production blades are designed for X use with Y steel at X hardness at Z thickness.

Once you get thinner than say .020" behind the edge things can change.

One has to have a few things in line so the edge doesn't get too weak and just fold over under use, it would be that issue more so than the chipping issue in production blades because they are generally not right at max range.

You can't add steel once it's gone, it's gone forever......

So NO I wouldn't recommend taking a production knife thinner than .015" unless the hardness is in the 62+ range then maybe into the .010" range......

Start dropping into the the .005" range and we have a specialized cutting tool.....
 
Thank you very much, I really appreciate it.

In the FWIW category, my MO is to regrind most of my blades to the relative thinness of the blade above with a Worksharp sharpener, starting with extra coarse (36 grit) to get the general lines down right, and then go to 240, followed by honing with a good quality, or rather excellent quality, sharpening steel. That produces a hair shaving sharp edge pretty quickly. Given that I'm slicing the caps off cigars, and cutting odd things such as rope, or plastic ties, opening cardboard boxes, slicing beef, and so on, the sharpness my simple method produces is good enough for my purposes. That said, hair shaving sharp edges don't last long at all when cutting up broiled pork chops, on ceramic plates. But the sharpness is quickly restored by some steeling.

There are those on BF who say to never take a sharpening steel anywhere close to a good quality steel such as M390, etc., but I say, sharpen the blade, use it, and resharpen as necessary.

My method is a quick and dirty real world sharpening method, and it gets me back cutting stuff rapidly.

I'm not so sure this has any applicability to your excellent cutting videos and ranking of steels and so on.

However, end of the day, my blades are shaving sharp quickly and easily.

In any case, your ranking of the various steels gives me a quick comparison of different steels and helps me evaluate what I should pay for them.

thanks again.
 
Folderguy said:
Thank you very much, I really appreciate it.

In the FWIW category, my MO is to regrind most of my blades to the relative thinness of the blade above with a Worksharp sharpener, starting with extra coarse (36 grit) to get the general lines down right, and then go to 240, followed by honing with a good quality, or rather excellent quality, sharpening steel. That produces a hair shaving sharp edge pretty quickly. Given that I'm slicing the caps off cigars, and cutting odd things such as rope, or plastic ties, opening cardboard boxes, slicing beef, and so on, the sharpness my simple method produces is good enough for my purposes. That said, hair shaving sharp edges don't last long at all when cutting up broiled pork chops, on ceramic plates. But the sharpness is quickly restored by some steeling.

There are those on BF who say to never take a sharpening steel anywhere close to a good quality steel such as M390, etc., but I say, sharpen the blade, use it, and resharpen as necessary.

My method is a quick and dirty real world sharpening method, and it gets me back cutting stuff rapidly.

I'm not so sure this has any applicability to your excellent cutting videos and ranking of steels and so on.

However, end of the day, my blades are shaving sharp quickly and easily.

In any case, your ranking of the various steels gives me a quick comparison of different steels and helps me evaluate what I should pay for them.

thanks again.
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I wouldn't recommend it......
 
Ankerson said:
I wouldn't recommend it......
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I didn't expect you would! LOL

Must say that one of my knives has never been sharpened by me, nor even touched up with a steel. It's a custom fixed blade with popcorn stag scales made for me by Eddie White. Most it's ever done in my hands has been to slice about 2 inches of paper.

Now that knife's one that, for me, is to be admired and not used. Unless, of course, an emergency arises, which I do not expect.
 
Interesting - thank you! (Results snipped below for easy reference.) S30V really continues to impress, even though it gets very little respect from most people! :thumbup:

S90V - 460 - Military - 60 RC
M390 - 380 - Military - 61 RC
S30V - 300 - Military - 60 RC
Cru-Wear - 260 - Military - ? RC
CTS-XHP - 240 - Military - 60.5 RC
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