Resinol 90C Stabilizing update

I make knives and have access to lots of figured woods I want to stabilize. Where is a sure supply of Resinol? Seems hard to find a distributor. I have a vacuum/pressure system, but where are the distributors? Maybe someone who has actually purchased the product can help. Tom Lewis, where did you get yours?
 
I make knives and have access to lots of figured woods I want to stabilize. Where is a sure supply of Resinol? Seems hard to find a distributor. I have a vacuum/pressure system, but where are the distributors? Maybe someone who has actually purchased the product can help. Tom Lewis, where did you get yours?

First that depends on where you live, country, State, City ?

Reninol 90C is a Loctite product which is now a Henkel company

http://www.henkelna.com/cps/rde/xch...tredDotUID=productfinder&redDotUID=0000000HVT

You can look up local distributors from that.

Google is magic
 
I make knives and have access to lots of figured woods I want to stabilize. Where is a sure supply of Resinol? Seems hard to find a distributor. I have a vacuum/pressure system, but where are the distributors? Maybe someone who has actually purchased the product can help. Tom Lewis, where did you get yours?

You have to buy from Henckel.
1st they send out info and an application you fill out and send back before they decide whether they will sell to you. Chemicals have to be sent by Hazmat freight carrier.
After 2 years using Resinol 90c to stabilize a variety of woods I found I could get the wood stabilized by K&G or WSSI at a cost less than I was spending for the Resinol.
 
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+1 on burl source. Spent a couple thousand trying to do it at home. Could have had a lifetime supply of wood for that. I use K&G and they do a great job at a reasonable price. For me it works out to $2-3 per block. Not bad and you don't have to store and take the risks with the resinol.
 
Don't know of any successful home type users of this stuff. they usually are over night wonders, but when they start selling their stuff the complaints bring them back to earth and they discover the difference between home done and the years of experience professionals put into their products.
 
Yup what Larry said. Now if Larry would just do some custom stabilization I would be VERY happy.;)
 
Life is good, Chuck without that stress :) I do have one order for 6,000 knife blocks going to Europe. I'm in Texas and will be back in Eugene end of the week. Been sick for two weeks and had to cancel out Knife Expo. See you at OKCA show.
 
$2 to $3 per set of scale or block is a steal. If that were the case I would not do it either. Check out the prices including shipping and being from Canada, it is 5 times the rate you stated.

Dennis
 
Last time I did it, about 2 years ago, had 250 blocks done and paid $500. Shipping was done in flat rate box's so if the shipping is that much then I guess you need to start a business. Now if you can get the HAZMAT permits licenses from the company and transport the resinol, then set op a system capable of 4000 psi (what K&G told me they do) you might be able to do a good business. A simple home stabilizing system will not do the same quality as the pro's. I set up a chamber that would go to 3000psi and draw a 28 on the vacuum side spent $2000-3000usd tried 5 different chemicals available without a license, used $1000 worth of wood and came up with inferior results and totally wasted the product. So even if you have to spend $15 each and another $2-5 per block of unstablized wood that is a lot of pro done wood for the $$. If you can get the Resinol then I say give it a shot. All I want to do is relay my experiences and hope some might learn from my mistakes.
 
This is a really old thread!
There has been a concern about shelf life. I still have some Resinol 90C that is now almost 8 years old and it is still very usable. I have kept it in a refridgerator all that time and that seems to make it last a long time.
K & G does a excellent job and for small amounts they are the way to go.
I don't make as many knives today as I used to. When I started with the Resinol 90C, I was spending $400.00 plus a year on stabilized wood.
If I knew in 2003 that I would be using less wood, I probably wouldn't have spent money for the vaccum pump, etc.
I still do use the Resinol 90C to stabilize wood, and am still pleased with the results I get.
I agree with others that for most people, K&G is the place to send wood for stabilization.
 
Hello my fellow knife makers,

Although I am somewhat new to the knife game, I have had many discussions with other knife handlers. Since starting I have had great luck with impregnating different woods, fossils, tusk, etc. These items are then used on knife handles, cases, pens, etc. The reason for impregnating these is to make the items for durable and brings out their visual properties. I started with the 90C, but not only was it way to expensive, it turned solid on me. I went to a couple of knife shows and talked with with other people that use a product call Imprex 95-1000A. Since using it I have had great success, and have been able to take my wife out to dinner with the cost savings :p.

Currently I have more wood being processed, more updates to come..

Lumber
 
LumberJack What temp do you have to cure Imprex 95-1000A at and are you raping it in foil before curing like most do with 90c.

Thanks Brett
 
I also use 95-1000a and get great results. I don't use 3000-4000 psi either. I use vaccum and pressure though. I have cut many blocks in half to make sure I'm getting complete penetration and so far so good. I wrap mine in tin foil prior to heating. I heat mine to 215f
Jim
 
I decided to compare a block stabilized with Resinol 90 C with a block stabilized by one of the professional stabilizers.
The blocks of wood were 5 1/2" x 1 1/4" x 1 1/2".
a block before stabilizing weighed 5.1 oz.
The 90C block after stabilizing weighed 7.4 oz.
The block done by one of the well known professional stabilizers weighed 7.9 oz.
The professionaly stabilized block cost $14.00 plus shipping.
How much the block cost me to stabilize after I factor in the cost of the 90C, the vaccum pump, the bell jar, etc. I have no idea.
 
Brett - Pending on the wood type and my end result I have the oven at 200F, and leave it in there for a little over 2 hours.

Going back to my first statement, pending on the wood I am trying to impregnate declares what temperature and type of pick up the wood will recover. If the wood is very porous and light I will usually put foil on the ends of the block. Imprex, who I believe goes by Godfrey Wing now also sell a thinner sealant that works well..I dont recall the name though..

LJ
 
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