Rick Menefee Knives...

I love seeing well done custom kitchen knives - as Roland says, this is one of the great user knife categories - not many other kinds of knives will equal the day-in-day-out consistent use a good kitchen knife will get. Rick's are especially nice.
 
I am in kitchen and fixed blade mode for some reason. I will be going to the mountains in a week or so :therefore, I have been making a few non-ordered knifes for fun.
 
Rick i think it is important for us knife-users that you make Fixed Blades.
I love well made folding knives, but a well made FB is just as important and needed.
The kitchen is the obvious place, and if you do a lot of food prep or putting-up, a Parer and a larger knife like a Santuko or Chef's knife are the best patterns to use.
We need you to use your ability to make what are possibly 'The Best Cutting Blades' in these patterns too.
And the same for butchering: a boning knife and a larger patterned one.
Same for a dedicated "Flesh Only" Hunting knife.
And finally a small Fixed Blade as an outdoor EDC is great to have. (still carry at least 1 folder in the pocket). Your Burke's "3 Finger" is excellent in this regard. I would like to see other blade profiles as well in a small EDC, FB.
What i'm saying is: please don't leave making FB's behind you. They are needed and hugely appreciated.
roland
 
These i just finished the heat treat.
SAM_0087.jpg
 
Well...I think that answers everyone's question. Looks like you are going for light knives....
 
Rick, years after we are all gone, our heirs will still be using these "Menefee Made" knives and marvelling at how well they cut.
Even if you don't like making these FB's as much as the challenge of a multiblade Folder, keep in mind that they are going to be loved and appreciated for generations, as inspiration, if any is needed.
roland
 
rickmenefee said:
These i just finished the heat treat.
SAM_0087.jpg
Click to expand...
Rick
I realize the importance of being exact with the holes that will be used for the pins to attach the scales.
Is there any pattern, or importance in placement and or size of the other holes in the tang of the knives? I know balance will be a factor as well.
 
Rick, you gotta have fun sometime. Glad to see it. I have yet to use my Back Pocket Mammoth Ivory Folder.
It's still in my display case. FYI. Hope you enjoy your trip to the mountains.!!

Todd
 
Just got a couple in, one new and one from a spa (NOPE: Restoration Center). I broke the tip off the green handle when it accidently hit the concrete floor, I thought I could fix it, but I messed up the swedge and the point. Rick the Man to the rescue. Swedge and point as good as new. I love the other one and it is in my pocket now. Perfect as any knife could be. Rick, I want to publicly say thank you for taking care of my tools and enabling me to carry and use some of the best knives made by anyone.
Jim
IMG_0242.jpg
 
rprocter said:
Rick, years after we are all gone, our heirs will still be using these "Menefee Made" knives and marvelling at how well they cut.
Even if you don't like making these FB's as much as the challenge of a multiblade Folder, keep in mind that they are going to be loved and appreciated for generations, as inspiration, if any is needed.
roland
Click to expand...
A lot of guys talk about my tradional knives cutting. The process not a big secret, its simple. Heat treatment and the grind. Hollow ground blades on big wheels; 14 to 18 inch is what I use. These bigger wheels allow the blade at the spine to be thinner, much like a flat-ground blade. However, at the edge back, you can get a thinner blade. Then after sharpening several times, the blade will remain sharp. Flat ground blades get thicker the farther you get away from the edge. If you look at a splitting ax for wood and then a straight razor you can see the difference. Heat treatment is the other thing. Ats-34 and 154cm are two of the most popular stainless that are used to make tradional knifes. I do exactly what the manufacturer recommends and then I test my oven temperture every 3 months with rc testes "plural" ! The temperature I use are as followed. PER Manufacturer DIRECTIONS!!!!

30minute 1250 degree stress relieve
45 min 1950 degree austenite "hardning"
8 hours -300 in liquid nitrogen "tranfer all retained austenite"
temper blades 2 times @500 degree for 2 hours each
temper springs 2 times @ 1070 degree for 2 hour each

On a side note on many tradional pocketknifes you will see some rust or pitting on the inside or outside of the spring. This is because @ the higher spring temper temperature you burn a little chromiuium out of the steel which is what makes a stainless stainless. This can't be avoided.

There it is! Pretty simple really.
 
On the bottom row, with all the fixed blades, starting from the left, the sixth, eighth and ninth appear to be the same pattern. I'd love to know which pattern it is. That looks like my kind of knife right there. You could cut up some fuzz sticks, whip it off on your pant leg and go to work on a bag of carrots. That's a great looking pattern.
 
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MHill said:
On the bottom row, with all the fixed blades, starting from the left, the sixth, eighth and ninth appear to be the same pattern. I'd love to know which pattern it is. That looks like my kind of knife right there. You could cut up some fuzz sticks, whip it off on your pant leg and go to work on a bag of carrots. That's a great looking pattern.
Click to expand...


Those are paring knives,I think. But they make great b&t and or utility,too
 
clk said:
Rick
I realize the importance of being exact with the holes that will be used for the pins to attach the scales.
Is there any pattern, or importance in placement and or size of the other holes in the tang of the knives? I know balance will be a factor as well.
Click to expand...
There are 1/8 pin holes where they need to be. All the other holes are just random. It makes the handle lighter in the hand and its less material to remove when tapering tangs. I like the knife to be blade heavy when i am useing a big knife! It helps the knife work 4 you while skinning.
 
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