Rockstead Knowledge Thread

Smashmasta said:
Hi guys. First time posting. I don't have a Rocky (yet), but have been trying to follow this thread as best I can (so sorry if this is question has already been asked). Can someone elaborate on the differences between a blade of Zdp-189 clad in VG-10 vs Zdp-189 coated in DLC?

Also on Rockstead's website they still have the description of their titanium aluminum coating stating that it's even harder than the DLC (Hv 3000 vs 1800). But I recall a post saying that the titanium coating was the older version and the DLC is newer. Why would they transition to a 'softer' coating (or am I just mis-remembering things)?

Although most of this thread seems to be folder oriented, does anyone have any experience with their fixed blades, and if so, can you elaborate on the primary differences in the Kon, Un, and Don (besides the obvious handle differences unless they play a substantial role in the use of the knife)? Any video reviews (I'm having trouble finding any decent ones).

Thanks!
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There is good info from a Russian place. The tested a fixed blade. I'm pretty sure there is a link to that on this forum or post.


Sunny
 
juzam182 said:
Question for Sshakari, Blues, or anyone else; would you rather have an $800 custom or a Rockstead? I am having a hard time deciding what path I want to go down first. My coworker, who I get a lot advise from and first turned me on to Rockstead is questioning why I would spend the same money on a Mid-Tech when I could get a custom for a small amount more. Please note we are not talking super crazy customs.

I was planing on getting a used Rockstead and a Shiro, totally would hopefully be around $1300 or I could get one custom $800-1200. Sometimes I do so much research and read so many reviews I lose perspective and I guess that is what I am asking for.

Thanks for time and consideration.
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Just saw this post.

To me, Rockstead knives are in a class that is between custom and midtech.

Some of us took a big chance in buying a Rockstead without seeing it in real life. I really wish there was a way to see and handle various models without going to a knife show. I hope your friend can let you handle the knife so you can see what its like. The best thing is that if you do end up buying a used knife at a decent price, if you dont like it you should be able to get most if not all of your investment back.

If you are planning to use the knife - you can strop it and eventually you are going to have to send it to Japan for sharpening.

As far as choice between 1 knife vs more then 1..... Most of us really only need just one knife, but choose to have more. So, this is entirely up to you. It is addicting.

I have 2 Rocksteads, a Higo and a Chi, also have 2 Shiros a 95T and Hoti and a few other custom/midtechs/production knives. I am obsessive compulsive, but I use them and have no safe queens.

I cant tell you what to do or buy it is a choice you have to make! Let us know if you have specific questions.
 
Smashmasta said:
Hi guys. First time posting. I don't have a Rocky (yet), but have been trying to follow this thread as best I can (so sorry if this is question has already been asked). Can someone elaborate on the differences between a blade of Zdp-189 clad in VG-10 vs Zdp-189 coated in DLC?

Also on Rockstead's website they still have the description of their titanium aluminum coating stating that it's even harder than the DLC (Hv 3000 vs 1800). But I recall a post saying that the titanium coating was the older version and the DLC is newer. Why would they transition to a 'softer' coating (or am I just mis-remembering things)?

Although most of this thread seems to be folder oriented, does anyone have any experience with their fixed blades, and if so, can you elaborate on the primary differences in the Kon, Un, and Don (besides the obvious handle differences unless they play a substantial role in the use of the knife)? Any video reviews (I'm having trouble finding any decent ones).

Thanks!
Click to expand...
Thanks for clarifying, Blues. In the same vein, what does cladding ZDP-189 in VG-10 do for ZDP-189? And what are the differences between VG-10 and ATS34 in such cladding roles? Thanks.
 
Smashmasta said:
Thanks for clarifying, Blues. In the same vein, what does cladding ZDP-189 in VG-10 do for ZDP-189? And what are the differences between VG-10 and ATS34 in such cladding roles? Thanks.
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In my last post I mentioned how it helps increase toughness and corrosion resistance, however, let me expand on that:

Even though ZDP-189 is a "stainless" steel, it has a very high amount of carbon (3%) which makes this steel more susceptible to corrosion than a steel like VG-10 or ATS-34. I'm not sure if there is a significant difference between VG-10 or ATS-34 clad, but either one will help with corrosion.

As for toughness, think of clad-ZDP like a lead pencil. The lead inside is very brittle and can break easily under stress, but wrap the lead in a softer/tougher material like wood, and the lead becomes "protected" from such stress. However, the functional part of a pencil is the lead, which must be exposed in order to write. If you dropped the pencil tip-first onto a hard surface, the lead will surely break. Liken the pencil example to clad-ZDP blades; the harder steel inside is still exposed at the edge and can be damaged/corroded if abused or neglected.

Toughness is a moot-point for the application of a Rockstead though. Unless you're chopping/prying with your Rocky, you'll never benefit from a clad blade outside of increased corrosion resistance. Personally, I'll take DLC-coated YXR7 over ZDP for both increased toughness and aesthetics. There is nothing like a mirror polished DLC coating, it's beautiful!!!
 
^^^ true, the DLC coating is stellar.

For both of my knives I chose first available steel and now have the YXR7 Chi and ZDP Higo. I have read some posts which say that ZDP chips under certain use, but then it strops back to a fine edge. Also, have seen a video where someone hard uses a ZDP Higo and the edge does chip, but it continues to cut. In either steel, the knife can be sent to Japan for sharpening.

I was going to say that each of the steels will stay sharp for a long time, but thats a nebulous marketing statement. From my use of Chi YXR7 I can say that - yes it does stay sharp and yes it does look and perform great. With light stropping goes back to a very aggressive sharp edge. I do strop my Chi on a leather strop with green followed by a special red/brown extra fine polish compound.
 
^Slightly similar:D;)

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Have any of you encountered what appears to be hard water spots on your mirror polishes?

I just got my Chi in today (yes, it finally happened) and it has a couple of these spots. I can't take pictures currently.

Is there a cleaner any of you would recommend?
 
I have not noticed any marks on my blades that didn't come off with a quick wipe down with rubbing alcohol.

Is yours DLC coated or raw?

Jmunson1291 said:
Have any of you encountered what appears to be hard water spots on your mirror polishes?

I just got my Chi in today (yes, it finally happened) and it has a couple of these spots. I can't take pictures currently.

Is there a cleaner any of you would recommend?
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Jmunson1291 said:
Have any of you encountered what appears to be hard water spots on your mirror polishes?

I just got my Chi in today (yes, it finally happened) and it has a couple of these spots. I can't take pictures currently.

Is there a cleaner any of you would recommend?
Click to expand...

I have not seen any water type spots on either of my blades. I typically wash the blade with water and immediately dry it with a cloth or my shirt (do this on all my knives). You can try wiping it with some oil - miniral oil for knives that cut food or Hoppes #9 or any other kind of oil.
 
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