Rough Rider & Related Slipjoints

My first Rough Riders came in today. Thoughts follow.

Ok, these are $10 knives. They aren't meant to be perfect. Overall, I'm impressed. I think. I ordered a Canoe, a Stoneworx Congress, a mini Congress, a hawkbill, and a trapper build-it-yourself kit to play around with.

The mini Congress is tiny, slightly less than 2", and all the blades have a nice bevel, but none seem to actually be sharp enough to slice paper. One side has pretty "mother of pearl" and the other side has no fire at all to it, so it just seems like white plastic. All of the blades manage to have some snap, but it's weak. Still, 4 blades in a knife so small, it's impressive.

Its big brother, the Stoneworx Congress, is an eye catcher. The blades don't rub too badly, but also suffer from fairly weak pulls and snap (but not a lot of it.) They are elegant though, with their long matchstriker pulls. The MOP is lovely in every panel here, and the metal parts are elegant. The "stone," however, is a bit of a letdown, as it feels and looks like dull acrylic. Maybe a bit of a polish will help this knife really glow. 3/4 blades are sharp.

The Canoe feels like a genuinely good knife. The bone isn't perfectly matched, and again, the pulls are rather on the weak (but entirely adequate) side. Nice pleasing snap. Both backsprings are flush at closed but recessed a touch when the blades are open. Blades came nice and sharp. I can see myself carrying this, it feels like an honest-to-goodness knife. The aesthetics are nice and the lined bolsters, pulls, and lack of real gaps in the springs and liners are all impressive. No half stops.

The hawkbill is also impressive in its way. It's big, 4", but comfortable in the hand, and the plain smooth bone is an entirely acceptable cover, with interesting character, liable to develop more with use and time. This knife seems "workmanlike" with a touch of class, and is exactly what I was hoping it would be. It's effortlessly pinchable, and sharp. The stainless will be a good fit here, as this is more of an agricultural implement and won't need to be babied to keep it from rusting should it get left in the shed on a humid day.

The trapper kit is pretty rough, but that's to be expected. Not much to say here as I haven't tried to assemble it yet, but it's definitely not just a matter of putting some pins in and going to town, this will require sanding and shaping the handle wood, probably smoothing the springs and liners, finishing the bolsters, grinding an edge onto the blade blanks, etc etc. A lot of work, but it seems like a good way to learn something about slipjoint construction.

 
Nice start. :)
I like the looks of that canoe and hawkbill. I have the large stoneworx stockman. A couple minutes with a metal polish (I use Blue Magic) will have the stones on your congress glowing.
 
GaiusJulius said:
The Canoe feels like a genuinely good knife. The bone isn't perfectly matched, and again, the pulls are rather on the weak (but entirely adequate) side. Nice pleasing snap. Both backsprings are flush at closed but recessed a touch when the blades are open. Blades came nice and sharp. I can see myself carrying this, it feels like an honest-to-goodness knife. The aesthetics are nice and the lined bolsters, pulls, and lack of real gaps in the springs and liners are all impressive. No half stops.
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I've had my eye on a few different RR canoes. They seem like one of the better patterns RR has going, and I am hoping to find one in that smooth green bone RR has been selling mini canoes in.

As for the flip side, I received my DBJ but unfortunately there was damage to the liners, bolsters, and even the slip case that could be the fault of bad QC or may well be due to the dealer's own handling; I'm waiting for a reply now to see if they have more in stock and will make a token effort to check for obvious damage before sending me a replacement. I gently reminded the dealer that I had a number of other RRs in my shopping cart (mostly to match the DBJ or my old sawcut Barlow) but that I wouldn't pull the trigger on them if I couldn't expect a token level of quality control for outgoing sales (separation, proud springs, etc. are one thing, but actual physical damage to the shiny bits of a "factory new" knife is unacceptable to me, whether priced at $5 or $500).

I was so upset about this, and I remained so until I received my red 10-dot Case peanut -- that thing lit up the entire room. :D Even now, however, I'm still a little disappointed, because this isn't RR's fault that I can see. I only hope the lower retail price of these knives doesn't work against me in obtaining an actual new knife (which is what I thought I was buying) -- at this point it is a matter of principle. :o
 
Got in one of their lockbacks the other day. Now I've always been fond of Traditional locking knives and I don't accept the "if you know how to use a knife properly/traditionals don't have locks" school of thought. Lockbacks have been around on knives since the c19th. Otherwise we'd all still be messing about with friction folders (beyond my ken) or even flints I digress.

RR 1354 Heavy Folder with dymawood/synth handles. This is almost exactly the same size as a GEC 15 so it should be a handy, good LB.

Only it isn't. None too comfortable in the hand as the scales are sharp and not radiused, some of the brass liners are proud from the slabs too. OK you could spend an hour or so sanding them down etc. Lock up is good and doesn't display play, It has a Copperhead bolster so the tang is usefully covered when closed. But the bolsters are again proud on one side making it uncomfortable in the hand. Blade very much favours one side but no rubbing, seems to have no return snap or talk-many lockbacks do. The blade is sharp but quite ugly grinds and not an attractive matte finish at all.

It arrived from the US to Europe with a crack in the handle pin at the butt end, right through which suggests brittle material. I politely asked the Ebayer what he could do about it (return postage costs would make it no worth my while) he offered 25% off the whole cost, not that good but best I can extract from here. I don't feel he deliberately palmed off damaged goods on me, but you don't always know...

No, these come from a factory that is not up to the slipjoint standards, not by a long chalk. RR slipjoints can be fantastic pocket knives, the lockbacks I'd say not really.
 
Will Power said:
The RR Barlow is generally very well made by anybody's reckoning, I especially like the sawn brown bone versions, a really different type of scale. Yes the bolster is rather oversized (perhaps they save costs by having the same one for the G.dad Barlow as well??) and three pins would be nicer than 2..but it remains an excellent and very workable knife, with many choices. A Spear version could be welcome. I don't really care for shields on Barlows at all, rather a mess actually, but you can get them without too. The stamped bolster is EXCELLENT though, nice design and a quality nod to Barlow origins, you even get i on the Mini version, which as I've said before, beats any Peanut out there.

Nevertheless, despite some shortcomings (which knife doesn't have them??) it provides a very affordable example of what was once the toughest and most proletarian of knife patterns-the Barlow. It may have some more illustrious or prized rivals for sure, but then, you can find them on the Bay costing up to 250 Dollars, such things are very unlikely to be used as an everyday work-knife. RR can and are but remain a decent item worth getting.

On the Yellow D they offer, yes the colour can be unmatched-although it is often a very nice pale shade - but it has its own drawbacks which are more serious. Many of mine have rapidly developed a centre-pin crack on one side, the material is quite thin but evidently brittle which may explain the prevalence of liner gaps on Old Yellow knives. Pity as it looks good with that shield and the Whittler (got the crack both of them) and the Eureka Stockman (no crack) are very nice patterns to use and carry.

Thanks, Will
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Is that true about the Barlow pattern?
 
Sorry to hear you got a bad one. I have the 020 lockback 3 5/8 closed, white bone covers. I had to sand the edges of the bone on mine, they were a bit sharp. Your post got me curious, so I got it out of the box I keep my "not using today" knives.
Solid lockup, no blade play open or closed, and no talk/snap when closing it. The blade has a strong preference to the mark side, but no rub.
I don't carry mine very often. A bit small for an EDC lockback, I prefer something along the lines of a Buck 110 or Schrade LB7/ 7OT/ 6OT for that. However, it is ok for a "go to meet'n" knife.
 
cchu518 said:
Is that true about the Barlow pattern?
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Not quite sure of your meaning?

a) Yes I think they are of very decent quality & worth getting.
b) Don't know about the Old Yellow Barlows developing cracks as I don't have that version, but quite a few other Yellows have developed a centre-pin crack.


Thanks, Will
 
I've a nearly full set of RR standard barlows (except the Tobacco bone - out of production when I got into RRs) and all of them are well made and came using sharp. My favorite is the Bark Bone.
Rich
 
That it was meant to be the most proletarian and toughest knife out there! It's interesting to think of it in that way as they are often collected these days.
 
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Hey, did I mention I really like this saw cut Barlow? Let's see your new RR.....or old RR.: :cool:
 
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cchu518 said:
That it was meant to be the most proletarian and toughest knife out there! It's interesting to think of it in that way as they are often collected these days.
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Yes, I believe that the Barlow was often a cheap, affordable and sturdy pattern for the workers. Its large steel bolster gave extra strength and saved on having to apply costly scales. Most were cheap durable sawn bone, wood or later, delrin clad knives that could withstand dirty work or being dropped.

This may help to an extent.

http://www.alloutdoor.com/2014/01/21/old-school-edc-history-barlow/

Thanks, Will
 
over 400 years of use and production. thanks for the info Will. Im sure putting this one through its paces. :rolleyes:
 
cchu518 said:
That it was meant to be the most proletarian and toughest knife out there! It's interesting to think of it in that way as they are often collected these days.
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Will Power said:
Yes, I believe that the Barlow was often a cheap, affordable and sturdy pattern for the workers. Its large steel bolster gave extra strength and saved on having to apply costly scales. Most were cheap durable sawn bone, wood or later, delrin clad knives that could withstand dirty work or being dropped.

This may help to an extent.

http://www.alloutdoor.com/2014/01/21/old-school-edc-history-barlow/

Thanks, Will
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Yes, being inexpensive and sturdy, functional knives was what made them great and now collectible. Same with "Boy's Knives" or sometimes called "Dime Knives". I have a small collection of those: all with clip metal scales some with "Our Boy", "Boy's Favorite", "5 Cent Knife"; etc. - all made in Germany. Like this from Google Images:

https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3720/8754470222_64fc135299_b.jpg

Also several old IKCo (Imperial Knife Co) with clip, metal bone style stamped scales, and a few later Imperial Cutlery Co made the same way. Like this (from Google Images):

https://www.antiquesnavigator.com/ebay/images/2013/200920564148.jpg

I remember being able to go into a 5 & 10 cent store (yes really) and buy a knife for a dime or quarter when I was a kid (a long, long time ago). Now you have to be 18+, have a background check, a cavity search,etc. to be able to buy a knife - not a change for the better :-( At least RR's and a few other companies have brought back well made, inexpensive barlows. Now if they would just bring back an inexpensive boy's knife.
Rich
 
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Does anyone know where I can find information on RR production models and dates they were made? I've stumbled on to a RR502 Tortoise Barlow which doesn't seem to be in production anymore, and I'm trying to find out more information on it i.e. when made. Same thing for an older (i'm guessing) RR201 rough jigged amber bone Barlow with no bolster stamp.
 
Got in another barlow, the brown bark covers, RR1387. Nice feel to it and good f&f.
here with the white bone ( RR198 my favorite ) and a white bone canoe that I tea dyed.

 
I have both the Bark Bone (my favorite) and the white bone barlows. Am interested in how you dyed the canoe - looks beautiful, considering doing it to my RR white bone barlow. Thanks
Rich
 
RichS....there are some threads about tea dyeing. Clean up the knife with warm water and soap...alcohol wipes. Although is is SS I still oil up the joints. boil water , about 1 1/2-2 cups and add 4-5 bags of black tea. I like to wait till I can comfortably put my finger in the water. I then warm up the knife under some hot tap water, then put the knife in and let it soak overnight would be good. Turn it over once or a few. The white bone
at the pins and edges will pick up more dye. Rinse and repeat till get it dark enough.
Rit dye will work also. Do not add vinegar tho, as this will soften the bone.
 
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