Rough Rider & Related Slipjoints

[Rsmith_77]

ack my post was moved. Its cool just took me a moment to find it.

ok, i knew traditionals were thinner and that thinner blades cut better. I just wasnt sure if this was normal or if i had bought a bad knife.

so this is normal, thats fine. Learn something new everyday

 

[midnight flyer]

So i managed to pick up a rough rider gunstock stockman yesterday at a gunshow. I kinda liking it, love the gunstock bone scales.

but i noticed that the blades are really thin. Ie when i was sharpening it up nicely i could see the blades bending sideways (laterally). They are thin enough i am pretty sure i could snap them bare handed (I WONT, but...)

is this normal in a traditional knife? Or is rough rider just a cheap brand. I mean i've heard good things about rough rider but it may be normal since i am transitioning from single locking folders of a more modern stylel.

anyways, i thought i would ask the experts
thanks in advance.

Ryan

No expert here, but might be of some help.

Traditionals are usually made to be cutting instruments or tools of some sort. Some are specialized such as cotton samplers, doctor's knives, etc., and some are more of the utility variety. Kind of a "jack of all trades" idea when designed. But in the end, the main duty of these knives whether a peanut or a folding hunter is to cut.

I have a small stockman and a small half whittler that you can bend the blades easily if you aren't careful. These are considered "gentleman's knives" and therefore aren't made for heavy tasks. However, they slice quite nicely, and I expect them to be around as long as I am if I take care of them.

My large CASE copperlock and my large CASE Texas jack are another story. Both quite traditional in design, but made for heavy duty work. These knives will take a licking and come back for plenty more. I carried that copperlock for years as my main work knife in construction and while the snap is a bit weak, it has decades left in it.

Make sure you are matching the task to the knife. I agree with Black Mamba: "If you're used to tacticools, which are significantly over-built, then they will seem too thin to you. Just keep the lateral stresses off the blades and you will learn to love the way they slice!" :thumbup:

On the other hand, this is why I usually carry two knives. One heavy folder for work, and another small knife for more polite tasks like cutting the end off my cigars. I am not careful with my RAT1 and could replace it easily, but would be undone if something happened to a favorite slipjoint.

Robert

 

[Rsmith_77]

well, its good to know.

its a small stockman. granted its a pocket knife. So i dont plan on abusing it (prying whatever) but i do expect it to handle whatever i use it for.

but it seems like it just might be able to ...

 

[Javelin]

well, its good to know.

its a small stockman. granted its a pocket knife. So i dont plan on abusing it (prying whatever) but i do expect it to handle whatever i use it for.

but it seems like it just might be able to ...

I know how you feel man, I used to open cans and all kinds of stuff with my knives... do yourself a favor and buy one of those little widgey prybars and save the tips of dozens of knives!

 

[Rsmith_77]

well i've been pairing my new traditionals (first a sodbuster and now this stockman) with a SAK. So far so good. Still not confident enough to leave the sak behind yet, but we will see as time goes on.

 

[Rick]

My wife wanted to try a little EDC slippie, so I picked up this 3" RR Congress Whittler in BLP. It'll probably bounce around with all her other junk for a while before finding its way into the layer of detritus that occupies the bottom of her purse.

It's not bad for $8 shipped, I guess, but it's nowhere near as nice as the damascus lockback I posted earlier, so I doubt that I'll buy any more RRs in the foreseeable future. Surprisingly, the edges were fairly dull out of the box, and I'm still working on 'em. They were particularly thick toward the points for some reason :thumbdn:.

Walk is 'meh' and the snap is decent enough. There are some small backspring gaps and some blade rubbing, but not too bad. The pearl is a bit crude and cloudy, and of course it isn't pinned in place, but it has some nice color around the edges.

I'd place this knife firmly in the 'quantity over quality' category. Personally, I'd rather have one GEC than ten RRs, based on this example, but YMMV.

 

[Durwood]

I've picked up a couple of the smaller patterns, and I gotta say I'm surprised (favorably) so far. Now, I doubt I'll sell my customs to buy a ton of 'em, but at least some of them are pretty nice.

My favorite so far is a baby barlow in old yellow:thumbup:

 

[Robert.B]

My favorite so far is a baby barlow in old yellow:thumbup:

Mine too! :thumbup: the larger old yellow knifes I found QC on the scales is a bit dodgy so I keep to the smaller RR's.

 

[tomsch]

I have a few RRs and have generally very happy with the F&F. I did receive a small Sodbuster that had a significant amount of side-to-side wiggle. The latest one I picked up was an orange bone doctor's knife that is put together very well.

 

[Rsmith_77]

No expert here, but might be of some help.

Traditionals are usually made to be cutting instruments or tools of some sort. Some are specialized such as cotton samplers, doctor's knives, etc., and some are more of the utility variety. Kind of a "jack of all trades" idea when designed. But in the end, the main duty of these knives whether a peanut or a folding hunter is to cut.

I have a small stockman and a small half whittler that you can bend the blades easily if you aren't careful. These are considered "gentleman's knives" and therefore aren't made for heavy tasks. However, they slice quite nicely, and I expect them to be around as long as I am if I take care of them.

My large CASE copperlock and my large CASE Texas jack are another story. Both quite traditional in design, but made for heavy duty work. These knives will take a licking and come back for plenty more. I carried that copperlock for years as my main work knife in construction and while the snap is a bit weak, it has decades left in it.

Make sure you are matching the task to the knife. I agree with Black Mamba: "If you're used to tacticools, which are significantly over-built, then they will seem too thin to you. Just keep the lateral stresses off the blades and you will learn to love the way they slice!" :thumbup:

On the other hand, this is why I usually carry two knives. One heavy folder for work, and another small knife for more polite tasks like cutting the end off my cigars. I am not careful with my RAT1 and could replace it easily, but would be undone if something happened to a favorite slipjoint.

Robert

Well, just wanted to say, i received a new RR Canoe as a gift and there is no bendy blade going on here with this one. Must be just the small stockman blades. Hopefully it wont turn out to be too "gentleman" and be a good user. Time will tell of course

 

[hoopster]

I have a few RRs and have generally very happy with the F&F. I did receive a small Sodbuster that had a significant amount of side-to-side wiggle. The latest one I picked up was an orange bone doctor's knife that is put together very well.

I ordered one of the liner lock small sodbuster work knives in smooth bone and it's a pretty bad one. The lock doesn't fully engage and if you force it over it won't stay. Even worse, the blade wobbles about as bad as could be. I'll probably try to fix the blade play and just remove the lock if it can't be worked out.

 

[rprocter]

Here's what i find odd. I have over 100 RR knives, all bought on ebay, most are from the same seller. Not even 1 has a major problem.
Yet lots of guys post here about their RR having blade play, or bendable blades, etc.
None of mine were hand selected. Seller has a pile of them, takes 1 from the pile, sends it to me. In over 100 knives i should have received a few 'bad' ones.
So are some sellers dealing in ones that are unmarked seconds ?
I.E. does reliably getting a good RR knife depend on which seller you buy from ?
Any other ideas ?
roland

 

[Robert.B]

I found when I went from one seller to another, the second seller I dealt with may have been selling seconds and god a refund on what I purchased as they were not being sold as seconds (most wouldnt notice the issues, but I get picky even with cheap knives).

 

[dalee100]

Here's what i find odd. I have over 100 RR knives, all bought on ebay, most are from the same seller. Not even 1 has a major problem.
Yet lots of guys post here about their RR having blade play, or bendable blades, etc.
None of mine were hand selected. Seller has a pile of them, takes 1 from the pile, sends it to me. In over 100 knives i should have received a few 'bad' ones.
So are some sellers dealing in ones that are unmarked seconds ?
I.E. does reliably getting a good RR knife depend on which seller you buy from ?
Any other ideas ?
roland

Hi,

You know, this is something I've wondered about too. I honestly don't have as many RR's as you, but I have a few. And I've only bought 2 off of auctions. The rest have come from either Waxman, (out of business now), or SMKW, the owners of the brand.

The ones I've gotten from auctions weren't quite as nice as the "store bought" ones. Though the problems with them are nit-picky cosmetics. Nothing that would count as a show stopper.

Sometimes I wonder if it has to do with sheer luck. For example, I've tried a couple of Steel Warriors. But both exhibited serious flaws, the rubbery, wobbly blades with poor lockup. So I stick with RR because I seem to get a better knife. But many other people get nice Steel Warrior knives and enjoy them.

Dale

 

[beta464]

I have had great luck with my Rough Rider:

It's a great little doctors knife and I must say I would directly compare it to modern Case knives in quality and I've had quite a few Case knives as well as Schrade USA and so on now I'm not saying these are the best but for the price they're amazing.

Another knife company I've had good luck with is the Frost Steel Warrior knives although I don't have a picture of it I own a Frost Steel Warrior Copperlock knife and it's outstanding for the price here's a photo of a similar knife:

And finally my personal favorite is the US Classics knives here's a photo of my Moose folder:

The snap on the blades is better than any knife I've ever owned and it takes a dang fine edge for the price I think these are the best.

 

[Will Power]

I think it could be true that some sellers tote seconds...it happens with expensive established knife brands too!

I've found a couple of sellers I've been very satisfied with and one who certainly seems to send out RRs with flaws-so he's been sectioned. These are low cost knives and i suspect production levels are very high, there could be a temptation to palm off a consignment of seconds. But, judging from what i've bought 15-20, RR quality control is extremely good.

 

[hoopster]

I think it could be true that some sellers tote seconds...it happens with expensive established knife brands too!

I've found a couple of sellers I've been very satisfied with and one who certainly seems to send out RRs with flaws-so he's been sectioned. These are low cost knives and i suspect production levels are very high, there could be a temptation to palm off a consignment of seconds. But, judging from what i've bought 15-20, RR quality control is extremely good.

Might be true, I don't know. My lemon came from SMKW but it's not even worth the trouble to send back. I'll probably just use it as a guinea pig to practice my skills repairing knives or give it away eventually.

 

[Rsmith_77]

kinda bummed out
went by a local store and got to handle a buck 303. Its approximately the same size as the rough rider stockman i have.

MUCH less bendy blade going on there than with my rough rider. Significant difference. I kinda prefer the bone scales the RR has, but i am still wondering about the about of bendiness the blades show in comparison.

 

[midnight flyer]

kinda bummed out
went by a local store and got to handle a buck 303. Its approximately the same size as the rough rider stockman i have.

MUCH less bendy blade going on there than with my rough rider. Significant difference. I kinda prefer the bone scales the RR has, but i am still wondering about the about of bendiness the blades show in comparison.

When you are looking at "bendy" blades, you are looking at model differences as the bend is allowed due to the thickness of the blade. This will generally be dictated by the manufacturer's interpretation of the model itself. It doesn't necessarily have anything to do with quality, but a lot to do with personal preference.

For example, it is possible that that the RR has thinner blades, a thinner edge, which might make it a better slicer than the BUCK for its size. (Settle down, men of Buck... that wasn't a negative...) However, some may use a knife much harder and prefer a stiffer blade for their knife's chores. So you get basically the same knife, about the same size, but built differently for different uses. That's why manufacturers build different models of the same knife patterns.

I have bendy medium stockman patterned knives. I have non bendy. One is heavier built, and one slices better than the others. I like them both for different reasons.

In keeping with any knife guy's tried and proven solution, and certainly in the tradition of Blade Forums, you should buy the BUCK so you will have both!

That way you can make your own comparisons.

Robert

 

[beta464]

Here's what i find odd. I have over 100 RR knives, all bought on ebay, most are from the same seller. Not even 1 has a major problem.
Yet lots of guys post here about their RR having blade play, or bendable blades, etc.
None of mine were hand selected. Seller has a pile of them, takes 1 from the pile, sends it to me. In over 100 knives i should have received a few 'bad' ones.
So are some sellers dealing in ones that are unmarked seconds ?
I.E. does reliably getting a good RR knife depend on which seller you buy from ?
Any other ideas ?
roland

I agree I have had about 12 RR and no problems with em,also try US Classics