It basically just looks like they polished it in one direction for the top half of the blade then just polished it in the other direction so it's shiny at different angles....
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Rough Rider & Related Slipjoints
- Thread starter dalee100
- Start date
It basically just looks like they polished it in one direction for the top half of the blade then just polished it in the other direction so it's shiny at different angles....
All LBs have a slight "gap" between the spring and liners at the notch where you depress the spring to release the blade from the locked position. This is to prevent any binding when the release is depressed. The Boker looks just right to me.
roland
roland
- Joined
- Sep 21, 2010
- Messages
- 2,392
Decided to try out the RR brand after positive press. I decided to try an Old Yellow Dr's and a Congress/whittler in jigged brownish bone. Got both shipped for around $27.
The doctor's knife is "okay", tight fit, small liner gap when held up to a bright light. Spring isn't as strong as I'd like and the blade is certainly off-center when closed but the blade is sharp and it's put together solidly. Not something I'd keep on pocket duty but it'll make a nice desk knife or giveaway.
The whittler, on the other hand, would have been worth what I paid for both knives. Very strong snap and very sharp blades (ask the top of my left index finger; got distracted and opened it up pretty good!) The grinds aren't perfect but serviceable and easily remedied No gaps, split springs and liners all flush, no blade play whatever. The pen and coping blades are almost impossibly thin, but the main spear is acceptably beefy. There was a small 2mm crack in the scale next to a pin. THIS would do quite well in the pocket and I think I'll keep it around.
My impression of the brand overall is what I expected--not necessarily up to the overall F&F standards of my other knives (I own 2 Case and 1 GEC) but absolutely suited as working pieces, even more so because I'm not too concerned with losing or breaking it at $11 a pop. I'd recommend the whittler but if at all possible pick your piece before buying (as with every brand.)
The doctor's knife is "okay", tight fit, small liner gap when held up to a bright light. Spring isn't as strong as I'd like and the blade is certainly off-center when closed but the blade is sharp and it's put together solidly. Not something I'd keep on pocket duty but it'll make a nice desk knife or giveaway.
The whittler, on the other hand, would have been worth what I paid for both knives. Very strong snap and very sharp blades (ask the top of my left index finger; got distracted and opened it up pretty good!) The grinds aren't perfect but serviceable and easily remedied No gaps, split springs and liners all flush, no blade play whatever. The pen and coping blades are almost impossibly thin, but the main spear is acceptably beefy. There was a small 2mm crack in the scale next to a pin. THIS would do quite well in the pocket and I think I'll keep it around.
My impression of the brand overall is what I expected--not necessarily up to the overall F&F standards of my other knives (I own 2 Case and 1 GEC) but absolutely suited as working pieces, even more so because I'm not too concerned with losing or breaking it at $11 a pop. I'd recommend the whittler but if at all possible pick your piece before buying (as with every brand.)
Will Power
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2007
- Messages
- 33,363
The RR Whitlers I have vary in construction. 2 Old Yellow, very nicely put together, split backsprings and, as pointed out very thin Pen and small Clip,extra sharp main blade. I've one in faux Tortoise which has much thicker blades(too thick)and extra liners, sturdy it is but I prefer the slimmer Old Yellow model.
This is a really helpful thread. One thing that has become apparent is the variation in the different RR series. Lately i've been buying the Gunstock Bone ones, just excellent. But there are at least a dozen different series (Heritage Trapper, Long Rifle, Old Yellow, etc.) and the same pattern in each series seems to have it's own specs for things like thickness of the blade stock, level of fit and finish, etc.
They are cheap enough that you can buy your preferred pattern from each of the various series and find out which appeals to you most.
Prior to this thread i had thought that the only difference was the handle material and that the blade stock, level of fit & finish, etc. was the same.
But that is not so. This thread shows that there are more differences than just the handle type.
roland
They are cheap enough that you can buy your preferred pattern from each of the various series and find out which appeals to you most.
Prior to this thread i had thought that the only difference was the handle material and that the blade stock, level of fit & finish, etc. was the same.
But that is not so. This thread shows that there are more differences than just the handle type.
roland
- Joined
- May 26, 2010
- Messages
- 2,872
I hope this is acceptable for this thread and not too much of a review. I had intended to post this several months ago and forgot about it until reading a recent thread concerning the toughness of slipjoints.
The following is feedback I gave an individual who gifted me an RR 4" Congress and asked me to cut with it and report my findings.
"Well you asked me to cut with it and I did. It spent a week out at the farm an three other days around the house. Following is a list of chores for the RR:
10-12 pumpkins - just the tops as I was after the seeds
2-3 fence staples - used the main and the sheep foot blades to dig them out of 4x6 posts
a mountain of cardboard boxes
whittled points on about 3-4 1x2 for stakes
carved a notch in a barn door to make the lock fit better
cut I have no idea how much twine
stripped several pieces of wire
cut several pieces of 14 wire
cut a few pieces of hose
made about a half dozen cuts in drywall, both sides
cut up an old leather coat into usable pieces
opened four cans of beans Saturday night as we could not find the can opener at the farm
cut the plastic wrap off of 6 round bales
cut the bailing twine off of about 30 square bales
I did not intend to this but I had to cut baling wire as well. Apparently our hay balers ran out of twine and had to use some wire. I cut 5-6 bales open with the wire using the sheep's foot blade. S&M File and Wire Tested!
diced onions, carrots and garlic
cut open several packages
cut two 3" squares out of an old tire, no steel cords
made 6 hot dog and marsh mellow skewers from hickory
and cleaned my fingernails
The main blade probably got the least use and is was reasonably sharp until I cut those tire pieces. The sheep's foot is completely dull. After all that baling wire, digging and drywall how could it not be. One of the pen blades got a good workout and is dull as well. The other pen saw light duty and is still sharp. This was quite a workout and some of it was out of necessity. I did not have any cutters in the truck and had to cut the baling wire. It held up to get me through however. For the cans of beans I could have used an older junk knife but thought why not. I used one of the pen blades for this and it went right through them. Tonight or tomorrow I will see how it is to sharpen. All in all the blades are impressive as well as the overall construction. I would not have believed they would stand up to this abuse. The frames on most $10 knives would not have held up let alone the blades.
I will be carrying this one back to the farm. I know the Congress is not the most desirable pattern but for the above assorted work I find it hard to beat. A Stockman of this size is also a good choice for varied tasks. It is not bad on the blade selection however I would like to see them make one of the pens a coping.
Very pleasant experience.
Thank you for sharing the pleasures of the RR with me."
The following is feedback I gave an individual who gifted me an RR 4" Congress and asked me to cut with it and report my findings.
"Well you asked me to cut with it and I did. It spent a week out at the farm an three other days around the house. Following is a list of chores for the RR:
10-12 pumpkins - just the tops as I was after the seeds
2-3 fence staples - used the main and the sheep foot blades to dig them out of 4x6 posts
a mountain of cardboard boxes
whittled points on about 3-4 1x2 for stakes
carved a notch in a barn door to make the lock fit better
cut I have no idea how much twine
stripped several pieces of wire
cut several pieces of 14 wire
cut a few pieces of hose
made about a half dozen cuts in drywall, both sides
cut up an old leather coat into usable pieces
opened four cans of beans Saturday night as we could not find the can opener at the farm
cut the plastic wrap off of 6 round bales
cut the bailing twine off of about 30 square bales
I did not intend to this but I had to cut baling wire as well. Apparently our hay balers ran out of twine and had to use some wire. I cut 5-6 bales open with the wire using the sheep's foot blade. S&M File and Wire Tested!
diced onions, carrots and garlic
cut open several packages
cut two 3" squares out of an old tire, no steel cords
made 6 hot dog and marsh mellow skewers from hickory
and cleaned my fingernails
The main blade probably got the least use and is was reasonably sharp until I cut those tire pieces. The sheep's foot is completely dull. After all that baling wire, digging and drywall how could it not be. One of the pen blades got a good workout and is dull as well. The other pen saw light duty and is still sharp. This was quite a workout and some of it was out of necessity. I did not have any cutters in the truck and had to cut the baling wire. It held up to get me through however. For the cans of beans I could have used an older junk knife but thought why not. I used one of the pen blades for this and it went right through them. Tonight or tomorrow I will see how it is to sharpen. All in all the blades are impressive as well as the overall construction. I would not have believed they would stand up to this abuse. The frames on most $10 knives would not have held up let alone the blades.
I will be carrying this one back to the farm. I know the Congress is not the most desirable pattern but for the above assorted work I find it hard to beat. A Stockman of this size is also a good choice for varied tasks. It is not bad on the blade selection however I would like to see them make one of the pens a coping.
Very pleasant experience.
Thank you for sharing the pleasures of the RR with me."
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- Joined
- Apr 17, 2003
- Messages
- 5,283
Definitely a great review! so many new models are coming out that appeal to me...there is a pink model that has HOT as the inlaid shield which I want to get for my wife to keep in her hand bag so they're going out for both the male and female demographic.
I'd like to hear some thoughs on the MOP models, guessing its synthetic MOP but the trappers look ok.
I'd like to hear some thoughs on the MOP models, guessing its synthetic MOP but the trappers look ok.
- Joined
- Oct 12, 2007
- Messages
- 2,655
Actually the rough rider pearl is genuine.At least a lot of it.Its not great quality pearl,but heck,it aint that bad either.I even have a few mini trappers and a couple of large trappers with genuine black lip pearl that looks awesome!I give them to away to customers, my doctor, and other people i run into and deal with.For the money,Rough Rider blows everybody out of the water.The Boker + line is good,but have more fit finish issues IMO.
I've been buying the mini RRs ( ~ 2 1/2") for my 5 yr. old daughter. She has a nice collection of vintage and new knives and even a couple of lower end Customs. These minis are as impressive as the full sized ones in fit & finish and super sharp as well. They are small, but they are "real" knives.
One of her knives is a Case Tiny Trapper in 6.5 Bonestag, a really nice knife, just as good as the RRs
roland
One of her knives is a Case Tiny Trapper in 6.5 Bonestag, a really nice knife, just as good as the RRs
roland
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Joined this forum last month.
I was on vacation and read alot of threads to get up to speed in the knife world
after being away from the collecting part for some time.
I read this particular thread and thought to myself " Really, can these knives be any good?"
Well then, I believe, rprocter posted a model 321 gunstock pattern, jack knife and I
decided to actually see a Rough Rider up close and personal and ordered one.
It arrived today, and I am very impressed with it. Everything I look for, is there!
OK, I did run a little 0000 steel wool along the back of the springs, just for fun.
Not everyone will buy these knives, for a number of reasons, but this quality, at this price point, is something most people have not had a chance to buy in their lives, if they are under about 40 yrs old.
Of course, the true test of time is to be determined.
My 2 cents.
Ray
I was on vacation and read alot of threads to get up to speed in the knife world
after being away from the collecting part for some time.
I read this particular thread and thought to myself " Really, can these knives be any good?"
Well then, I believe, rprocter posted a model 321 gunstock pattern, jack knife and I
decided to actually see a Rough Rider up close and personal and ordered one.
It arrived today, and I am very impressed with it. Everything I look for, is there!
OK, I did run a little 0000 steel wool along the back of the springs, just for fun.
Not everyone will buy these knives, for a number of reasons, but this quality, at this price point, is something most people have not had a chance to buy in their lives, if they are under about 40 yrs old.
Of course, the true test of time is to be determined.
My 2 cents.
Ray
- Joined
- Jun 28, 2007
- Messages
- 3,215
I believe that the MOP is real but the abalone is synthetic.
Here are a few of my favourites.
A couple of black pearl whittlers one is called a congress whittler, sheeps foot master and two pens with 1/2 stops. The other (not sure what they're calling this one) master is a spear with a coping and pen as secondary blades, surprisingly without 1/2 stops,both with part sunk joints and both 3 inches.
Next a red jigged bone whittler at 3 1/4 iches, spear master a coping and pen secondary wth 1/2 stops and sunk joints, are very nice whittler, pocket friendly and the three blades I like in a whittler.
A canoe at 3 1/2 inches, spear and pen , handle in gunstock bone, great grip on the ones with the checkered jigging, a workhorse knife.
What they're calling a three blade barlow, a really strong knife, spear, clip and pen all 1/2 stops and three strong back springs, chunky in your pocket but a major working knife, in amber jigged bone, part sunk joints.
Finally a gunstock in red jigged bone, master spear and pen secondary, part sunk joints and 4 1/2 inches a big knife, massively strong springs and a big work horse pen blade.
NO gaps in any of these knives, great fit and finish on all, blades either dead centered or very close. All for less than 70.00 delivered to Canada. I can't say enough good things about these knives, really good knives and not because they're dirt cheap, but because they are good knives. Sorry for the huge shaddows, it's sunny here today.
Best regards
Robin
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A couple of black pearl whittlers one is called a congress whittler, sheeps foot master and two pens with 1/2 stops. The other (not sure what they're calling this one) master is a spear with a coping and pen as secondary blades, surprisingly without 1/2 stops,both with part sunk joints and both 3 inches.
Next a red jigged bone whittler at 3 1/4 iches, spear master a coping and pen secondary wth 1/2 stops and sunk joints, are very nice whittler, pocket friendly and the three blades I like in a whittler.
A canoe at 3 1/2 inches, spear and pen , handle in gunstock bone, great grip on the ones with the checkered jigging, a workhorse knife.
What they're calling a three blade barlow, a really strong knife, spear, clip and pen all 1/2 stops and three strong back springs, chunky in your pocket but a major working knife, in amber jigged bone, part sunk joints.
Finally a gunstock in red jigged bone, master spear and pen secondary, part sunk joints and 4 1/2 inches a big knife, massively strong springs and a big work horse pen blade.
NO gaps in any of these knives, great fit and finish on all, blades either dead centered or very close. All for less than 70.00 delivered to Canada. I can't say enough good things about these knives, really good knives and not because they're dirt cheap, but because they are good knives. Sorry for the huge shaddows, it's sunny here today.
Best regards
Robin
Hey Seals, i know exactly what you mean. That's why i have over 100 of these RRs(& still growing).
But it's Fun. Pretty well every knife is a good one, some are simply excellent, all are shaving sharp, and you didn't spend all that much money.
My RRs are just a small part of my knife collection, but i really like them, use some of them, and get a lot of pleasure from owning them.
roland
But it's Fun. Pretty well every knife is a good one, some are simply excellent, all are shaving sharp, and you didn't spend all that much money.
My RRs are just a small part of my knife collection, but i really like them, use some of them, and get a lot of pleasure from owning them.
roland
- Joined
- May 31, 2007
- Messages
- 947
I bought a package of RR "blems" one time, and except for a couple which had obvious flaws, they were all great knives, and around $4.00 each.
- Joined
- Mar 26, 2004
- Messages
- 24,593
I just got a Steel Warrior Congress in the mail today. Red walnut jigged bone, 3.5" closed (model SW 118RWJ). I bought it because in searching for my perfect traditional folder to carry and use every day for the next few decades, the Case congress in chestnut bone and CV steel has made it to my short list, but I have/had some reservations about the pattern. Would the blades be too thin? Would the knife be too wide/bulky? Would I like the assortment of blades? I decided to try a Steel Warrior first since $17 is a lot less than $60 if I ended up not liking the knife, and the 118 closely matches the Case 64052 pattern.
I have to say that I'm impressed with the Steel Warrior. It's not perfect, but the Case isn't likely to be either.
Probably the biggest difference is that the SW uses 4 backsprings, one for each blade, whereas the Case uses 2 backsprings, albeit with a spacer between them to allow enough room to bend the large blades so they fit. I was worried that the Congress pattern might be too wide to pocket/use comfortably, and in case of the SW, it's not. And the Case should be even narrower.
All 4 blades have half-stops. Pull is nice; not too stiff, not too soft. Similar to any full-sized SAK you might have. All blades snap closed. Springs are completely flush when closed. They stick out when in the half-stop position, but that is probably better for longevity, and IMO a non-issue unless you're talking about a $1000+ custom. The spring for the large sheepsfoot blade is the slightest bit proud when open, but not enough to get in a twist over. The large sheepsfoot also sits just a bit higher than the large spear blade. I don't know if this is intended (so you know which blade is which) or not; I might file down the kick so it sits a bit lower. The tip sinks below the handles, so either way it's not an issue.
The blades aren't particularly sharp, but it's nothing that a few minutes with a ceramic rod can't cure. There's a tiny bit of blade wiggle in every blade, but less than I expected. I've had plenty of modern "tactical" folders that had as much, if not more blade wiggle. There's a very slight gap between one of the liners and the spring (see picture below) and also a slight gap between one of the scales and the liner at one end (right top on same picture). Again, not really enough to get in a twist over, IMO. The shield doesn't sit parallel to the knife, but instead follows the jigging; if it sat parallel it'd be very proud on one side, so again, I'm not disappointed. Finally, if I wet a cloth and rub the scales, dye easily comes off. I expect this will eventually stop after some use and pocket carry.
The only other real complaint that I have is that, as a result of each blade having its own spring, making all 4 blades parallel, there's lots of space in the handles for longer blades. The congress pattern traditionally uses 2 backsprings and bent blades to fit them all, which means they have to be kept under a certain length to fit. In the case of this SW though the blade length seems to be dictated by matching the traditional blade patterns rather than practical use of handle space. It's a personal pet peeve of mine, but I hate it when knives make poor use of handle space; I hate poor blade-to-handle ratios. Give me longer blades, or shorter handles. I have the same issue with the Buck 301/303. Of course, this isn't a deal killer for me. Having 4 long blades would defeat the purpose of having 2 thinner, shorter blades for more detail, precision cutting. And if the handle was shorter it'd be too short for me to use comfortably. But still, I can't look at all that "wasted" space without some annoyance.
All in all, I'm impressed with the knife. Not perfect by a long shot, but at its price point I can't say that I'm disappointed at all. All these little nitpicks would probably go unnoticed by anybody who isn't a knife collector like you or I. For $17 (shipped!), I'm very happy with the knife and can only hope that the Case Congress, which I'll definitely be buying now, can offer the same value for the money.
I have to say that I'm impressed with the Steel Warrior. It's not perfect, but the Case isn't likely to be either.
Probably the biggest difference is that the SW uses 4 backsprings, one for each blade, whereas the Case uses 2 backsprings, albeit with a spacer between them to allow enough room to bend the large blades so they fit. I was worried that the Congress pattern might be too wide to pocket/use comfortably, and in case of the SW, it's not. And the Case should be even narrower.
All 4 blades have half-stops. Pull is nice; not too stiff, not too soft. Similar to any full-sized SAK you might have. All blades snap closed. Springs are completely flush when closed. They stick out when in the half-stop position, but that is probably better for longevity, and IMO a non-issue unless you're talking about a $1000+ custom. The spring for the large sheepsfoot blade is the slightest bit proud when open, but not enough to get in a twist over. The large sheepsfoot also sits just a bit higher than the large spear blade. I don't know if this is intended (so you know which blade is which) or not; I might file down the kick so it sits a bit lower. The tip sinks below the handles, so either way it's not an issue.
The blades aren't particularly sharp, but it's nothing that a few minutes with a ceramic rod can't cure. There's a tiny bit of blade wiggle in every blade, but less than I expected. I've had plenty of modern "tactical" folders that had as much, if not more blade wiggle. There's a very slight gap between one of the liners and the spring (see picture below) and also a slight gap between one of the scales and the liner at one end (right top on same picture). Again, not really enough to get in a twist over, IMO. The shield doesn't sit parallel to the knife, but instead follows the jigging; if it sat parallel it'd be very proud on one side, so again, I'm not disappointed. Finally, if I wet a cloth and rub the scales, dye easily comes off. I expect this will eventually stop after some use and pocket carry.
The only other real complaint that I have is that, as a result of each blade having its own spring, making all 4 blades parallel, there's lots of space in the handles for longer blades. The congress pattern traditionally uses 2 backsprings and bent blades to fit them all, which means they have to be kept under a certain length to fit. In the case of this SW though the blade length seems to be dictated by matching the traditional blade patterns rather than practical use of handle space. It's a personal pet peeve of mine, but I hate it when knives make poor use of handle space; I hate poor blade-to-handle ratios. Give me longer blades, or shorter handles. I have the same issue with the Buck 301/303. Of course, this isn't a deal killer for me. Having 4 long blades would defeat the purpose of having 2 thinner, shorter blades for more detail, precision cutting. And if the handle was shorter it'd be too short for me to use comfortably. But still, I can't look at all that "wasted" space without some annoyance.
All in all, I'm impressed with the knife. Not perfect by a long shot, but at its price point I can't say that I'm disappointed at all. All these little nitpicks would probably go unnoticed by anybody who isn't a knife collector like you or I. For $17 (shipped!), I'm very happy with the knife and can only hope that the Case Congress, which I'll definitely be buying now, can offer the same value for the money.
