Rough Ryder Reserve: New Premium Rough Ryder Line

jrawk said:
the shop put it on their facebook feed 2 hours ago, Dan.
Click to expand...
thanks for the additional information, jrawk, but I'm more or less curious about Clownsinc. He seems to have had his pulse on this drop since the day he joined, which was Wednesday. It feels like there's more to the story, so I just figured I'd ask. Even the OP didn't post anything about the drop, and you'd think he had some skin in the game.
 
EngrSorenson said:
thanks for the additional information, jrawk, but I'm more or less curious about Clownsinc. He seems to have had his pulse on this drop since the day he joined, which was Wednesday. It feels like there's more to the story, so I just figured I'd ask. Even the OP didn't post anything about the drop, and you'd think he had some skin in the game.
Click to expand...
I really don't know why I'm replying to this. Guess I took the bate.... If you're looking for the cutting edge of knife news, this forum ain't it. Recommend not dwelling on a user account name.
 
I also just ordered the whittler and the kayak...... I saw the announcement on Facebook...... I had asked to be notified via email but never received a heads up...... I don't care what the configurations are called; as long as they are well made, I could care less about names...... I'll give a functional report after I receive them...
 
Yeah, anyone who gets one, I’m really interested in two things-
1) is the D2 like other American examples? There’s been some talk of “Chinese D2”, and I’d like to get to the bottom of that.
2) how are the blade grinds?

I’m interested to hear impressions.
 
EngrSorenson said:
Yeah, anyone who gets one, I’m really interested in two things-
1) is the D2 like other American examples? There’s been some talk of “Chinese D2”, and I’d like to get to the bottom of that.
2) how are the blade grinds?

I’m interested to hear impressions.
Click to expand...

I have D2 in a Maserin (Italy) folder..... a RAT 1 (Taiwan), a couple RAT 2'S and numerous Chinese modern flippers..... I like it a lot..... I sharpen with diamond stones and am very pleased with the results..... I'm not a user to the extent that I can run a comparative analysis, but D2 works good for me......

One important thing is also the blade angle....... Saber ground are typically too "wedgy" to cut well...... I like blades that measure about .018 to .022 inch above the edge....... A little "teeth" on the apex and you have a wonderful slicer...... Of course, for bullwork the geometry should change to provide more strength.....

I have a couple A. G. Russell's that are beautiful knives but the blade profile is too wedgy to be good slicers..... I think they'd make good knives for bullwork but I'm too old now to be doing bullwork!.....
 
Quick review, just my own personal opinion.

Bearing in mind this:
Screen Shot 2020-11-03 at 13.44.22.png

- very slightly smaller than the average Canoe
- D2 steel a big plus, shame both blades are not at all sharp
- very robust and sturdy construction
- pretty good walk n talk
- not convinced by the 'modern take'..........blade shape should perhaps be more like a Dino
- general fit n finish is precise and well finished (though one of the blade's tangs has a fault, but doesn't affect anything other than aesthetic)
- if you're gonna do fluting, make it even on all four sides
- very wide/open construction - far more so than any Canoe pattern I have, almost as if there's a centre blade missing - will be easy to clean out, but equally fill up with fluff/dirt more possibly
- fits inside my paw well due to slightly fatter construction

Plus: vfm for this solid made twin-blade very good
Minus: feels a tad like a proto, just needs that extra refinement


A few quick snaps and comparison with standard RR Canoe and a Northfields:











 
God its thick isint it!
Are you happy with the purchase, would you recommend it? Rate the pull and stops and can you weight it?
 
ed_is_dead said:
God its thick isint it!
Are you happy with the purchase, would you recommend it? Rate the pull and stops and can you weight it?
Click to expand...

Northfields a fraction thicker in the very centre.

Pull is approx 6/10; as said, good walk n talk with the half stops
 
I suppose my biggest criticism at this point is the blade design is not harmonious with the handle when closed. To a casual Joe soap that comes across as a petty enough snag but to a knife guy? The sharp end of the tangs are exposed too which would be a major gripe for me. I think I will hold off and perhaps purchase one second hand when the serious knife fellas grow tired of them:)
 
Chui Chui thanks for the review! I think you showed me exactly what I needed to see... It's not a knife for me. I'm telling ya, that middle liner isn't necessary- I don't know why they insisted on it...
 
Chui Chui thanks for those images, sorry to hear that the edges were not up to snuff but I've found that to be on most and usually will need a sharpening tune up I don't get too concerned about how they are, but, what I am concerned about is how thick the edge is, from your one photo looking down into the handle I can't tell how thin the edges are. Do you have a way of measuring the thickness behind the edge on those?

For myself, the whittler and the kayak both look interesting to me.

G2
 
Thanks for the update.
The denim micarta single blade RR work knife I got a while back is a nicely made knife with a strong pull and sharp blade. If these are in that realm of manufacture quality then it seems like a win. Different strokes for different folks.
 
Last edited:
Chui said:
Quick review, just my own personal opinion.

Bearing in mind this:
View attachment 1448515

- very slightly smaller than the average Canoe
- D2 steel a big plus, shame both blades are not at all sharp
- very robust and sturdy construction
- pretty good walk n talk
- not convinced by the 'modern take'..........blade shape should perhaps be more like a Dino
- general fit n finish is precise and well finished (though one of the blade's tangs has a fault, but doesn't affect anything other than aesthetic)
- if you're gonna do fluting, make it even on all four sides
- very wide/open construction - far more so than any Canoe pattern I have, almost as if there's a centre blade missing - will be easy to clean out, but equally fill up with fluff/dirt more possibly
- fits inside my paw well due to slightly fatter construction

Plus: vfm for this solid made twin-blade very good
Minus: feels a tad like a proto, just needs that extra refinement


A few quick snaps and comparison with standard RR Canoe and a Northfields:


...
Click to expand...
ed_is_dead said:
...
The sharp end of the tangs are exposed too which would be a major gripe for me. ...
Click to expand...
Thanks for the review and excellent comparative photos, Paul! :thumbsup::cool::cool::thumbsup:
(It took me FAR longer than it should have to figure out where the blades had got to in that first pic! :rolleyes::p)
I agree with ed_is_dead ed_is_dead about the exposed tangs; a major part of the canoe pattern's appeal for me is the double "copperhead" style bolsters covering the sharp tang corners. This Kayak doesn't float my boat for that reason.

- GT
 
I've only seen pictures, not held one of these knives in my hand, but it feels like they just slightly missed on some design details. This isn't about fit and finish, or other cost-cutting issues: even if they're really well-made, I think I would pass on these.

I love the idea of a one-arm blade that also has an easy-open notch, and blue denim micarta is cool. But the EO notch overlaps with the cutout for the one-arm - this means that you don't benefit from the EO as much as you should (if the EO notch was moved towards the pivot just enough that it cleared the blade cutout, this would be fixed). The blade cutout is too rounded on the spine side - having it flatten out slightly would make it more functional (as it is, it's likely to slide off of belt loops instead of hooking the blade open).

The whole point of the canoe handle shape is that the tangs are covered up when closed.

It feels like they wanted the look of certain patterns, but didn't really think through the details of what made those patterns successful.

-Tyson
 
Tyson A Wright said:
But the EO notch overlaps with the cutout for the one-arm - this means that you don't benefit from the EO as much as you should (if the EO notch was moved towards the pivot just enough that it cleared the blade cutout, this would be fixed).
Click to expand...

I've thought about that- I believe you're right about the EO functionality being reduced, but the one arm open functionality I'm guessing increases, since it's easier to hook the opening "peg" (I'll call it) on something. Still not for me, either.
 
Tyson A Wright Tyson A Wright The "hook" portion is almost exactly how I ground down my GEC Calfpen, and almost identical to my Case one arm barlow. I haven't had any problems using the hook to grab a pocket edge or corner of a 2X4 (I do carpentry). With the Calfpen the hook was too pointy and dug into the inside of my little finger when using the other blade. Wouldn't be as much of a concern with a single blade though I reckon.
GkQD0rH.jpg

Case for comparison
rToDJHS.jpg

My GEC mod
dMTIF4i.jpg

Conversely this Boker wasn't cut out enough to work well one handed.:):thumbsup:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top