SAK Mods! Post your pics, questions and ideas

[Guy McVer]

I just took apart an alox MiniChamp with a cheap dollar store screwdriver. I used a 1/4" hex drill bit, size 5/64" inserted into the screwdriver, and I used that screwdriver to drill the rivets out by hand. A 1/16" drill bit probably would've worked fine too. They're very close in size.

The alox scale appears to have zero damage. Unsurprisingly, it turns out that you are easily able to avoid mistakes when you are going super slow. It took me over an hour to get through all 4 rivets. I think I could do it a lot faster, but I was being overly cautious since this was my fist time.

The drill bit was old, used, and corroded. I guess none of that matters when you're only using it to go through soft brass at a snail's pace. This is yet another example showing that you don't need much skill or any special tools to start modding.

...except for a tiny ball peen hammer. You do need one of those. So far, that's the only "special" tool I've needed, and I only consider it special because most people don't own one. The rest of the stuff I've needed were basic affordable common everyday tools that almost everyone already has. I have also used a small bench vise, and that is less common, but I'm pretty sure I could've gotten away with using a small table vise or a clamp.

edit: What should I do now?

I currently have this thing reassembled as a knifeless Rambler (scissors, SD ruler, phillips, nail cleaner file).

I could peen it like that, or I could strip it down further and make an alox Jetsetter (scissors, phillips). That would make it the same thickness as an alox Classic SD.

I could also add another layer instead. Maybe the package opener and the cuticle pusher...

Or I could take apart a Classic SD and use the SD nail file to make an actual alox Rambler.

Or I could do some other configuration.


What should I do?

 

[Guy McVer]

It's finished!

I went with the knifeless Rambler configuration. I'm really proud of this one. I almost want to take pictures.

Peening went well. I was worried that I left myself too little pivot length to peen with, but I actually had a tiny bit too much. As a result, my rivets are a bit bigger than Victorinox's, which can be seen on the front side. Mine are on the back. I still feel good enough about the way my rivets turned out that I imagine nobody would notice the difference unless they were actually paying close enough attention. Maybe...

Couple notes.

You definitely do not need a jig to assemble a 58mm SAK. You don't even need a work surface. You can just do it while holding it in your hand. It's not hard. I only dropped something once this time.

As usual with peening, slow and steady wins the race. Getting to the finish line is the only condition for victory. I did use the same 5 ounce ball peen hammer that I used on the larger SAKs. I know some people say you need a smaller one, but it worked fine for me.

That's pretty much it. This mod was a breeze. I really enjoyed it. I think I might do a couple more 58mm customizations. I already have ideas.

Thank you to anyone who provided modding information or even just a liitle encouragement over the last few weeks. Really, thanks. You might think it's a small thing, but it's not.

 

[Danny Linguini]

I’m sorry, I don’t understand what you mean by ‘almost want to take pictures.’

 

[Guy McVer]

There is a reason why I am such a grumpus about taking pictures. Well, several reasons. Mainly it's because I suck at it and I always have. Sorry.

Anyway, I said I was never going to post a photo here again, but I guess now I'm making my past self into a liar.

Here is my custom knifeless alox Rambler next to a stock Rambler. You can see that I copied the configuration pretty closely, but you'll notice that there's a difference in the shape of one tool (the knife). Also take note of Victorinox's nice factory rivets.

Here is a closer look of the other side. Because of the poor lighting (sorry), you can just barely see the ruler markings on the flat screwdriver tool. Obviously that's where the nail file texture is supposed to be on a stock Rambler, but as you can see it's actually over on the other side where the knife would be. The pointed nail file with the nail cleaner tip has taken the place of the knife.

Also, this side has my rivets. You can't make them out too well (sorry) but I think the image is at least clear enough to see that they're actually not too bad. I think they're pretty good for my 3rd time peening. I've seen pictures of custom SAKs from people who have been doing it for years and their rivets are... not very nice looking (in my opinion). Are mine perfect? Nooooo.

And I guess you'll have to take my word for this, but all the tools have decent snap and no side play. It has that very pleasing feel you get from fiddling with a Swiss army knife. The tools are lightly scratched up though because the Minichamp that I took apart to make this was a used one that I got from ebay some time ago.

I really am quite proud of how this little guy turned out though. I think I'll put it on my key chain.

 

[Danny Linguini]

Nice job! And nice pics! Very cool. You’re doing stuff here that not everybody can do - at least I can’t. You SHOULD be proud of it, especially when it comes out looking this good.

Btw, the only way to make a picture of a knife suck is if you forget to put the knife in it.

 

[Guy McVer]

You’re doing stuff here that not everybody can do - at least I can’t.

But you really can! I promise you that if I can do this then anyone else can do it too. Look at what I've been saying all along. I haven't been using any fancy or expensive equipment, I have no real experience at all, and I do everything super slow. On top of that, I've made some mistakes along the way. But that's how you learn, right? I am only just now starting to gain any confidence.

Do your research, ask questions, plan everything out and rehearse it in your head, and then finally do it. And take your time. There is no need to rush anything. Patience and thoughtfulness go a looooong way.

You can do it.

 

[Barbababa]

But you really can! I promise you that if I can do this then anyone else can do it too. Look at what I've been saying all along. I haven't been using any fancy or expensive equipment, I have no real experience at all, and I do everything super slow. On top of that, I've made some mistakes along the way. But that's how you learn, right? I am only just now starting to gain any confidence.

Do your research, ask questions, plan everything out and rehearse it in your head, and then finally do it. And take your time. There is no need to rush anything. Patience and thoughtfulness go a looooong way.

You can do it.

That´s good advice, who dares wins Planning and going slow gets a long way. Just like you, I don´t have any fancy tools (but I sure wish I had )

 

[Guy McVer]

My cheap dollar store screwdriver has now dismantled two Swiss army knives. This time it was an old 91mm Ranger. The same corroded 1/4" hex 5/64" diameter drill bit that was used to take apart the 58mm MiniChamp worked again on the Ranger. Sure, it's a small bit size for the rivets on a 91mm model, but you can sort of "dig around" to create a bigger hole with a smaller drill bit. All 6 bushings were preserved. An ordinary nail was used to drive the pivots out.

Using a couple of larger drill bits would've made sense. I do have the set of 1/4" hex drill bits that were purchased for this exact purpose, but it's fun to try doing stuff with as little as you can get away with. Speaking of that, I figured out an easy trick to remove the center pin without drilling it, and it guarantees that you will preserve the bushing with a 100% success rate.

The Ranger's aluminum liners were so badly gunked up and corroded that it needed to be taken apart to be properly restored. One of the sideplates was damaged to to point that you could remove metal flakes with your finger. Even after cleaning and sanding the liners, all but one still have pitting on both sides. It's not deep, but there's still a lot of it. The liners feel sturdy though, so I think it will be fine to reuse them, and you won't really see the pitting once the knife is assembled. Of course the damaged sideplate will have to be replaced. There's a small chunk missing on one end of it, and no amount of sanding can fix that.

This SAK was obviously neglected badly and it deserves to be fixed up and cared for. All of the tools are in surprisingly good condition, aside from the scissors which will have to be replaced. Since the SAK has been taken apart now, it's a good opportunity to mod it. I have some ideas about that. You might be able to guess what they are. We'll see if they work out or not.

"When life gives you lemons, mod them." -Ghandi

 

[kamakiri.knives]

Speaking of that, I figured out an easy trick to remove the center pin without drilling it, and it guarantees that you will preserve the bushing with a 100% success rate.

There’s no bushing on the ‘center’/3rd/back pin…but the 4th pin (because that’s the one that was added last…to allow the use of three tools per layer) can often just be cut or clipped with wire cutters. Usually easiest in layers without a back tool. In really badly corroded knives, a hacksaw can be used between layers. I have a few scales removed that still have bushing and pins in them. Lots of ways to skin the cat. And even more secret squirrel methods.

 

[Guy McVer]

There’s no bushing on the ‘center’/3rd/back pin…but the 4th pin (because that’s the one that was added last…to allow the use of three tools per layer) can often just be cut or clipped with wire cutters. Usually easiest in layers without a back tool. In really badly corroded knives, a hacksaw can be used between layers. I have a few scales removed that still have bushing and pins in them. Lots of ways to skin the cat. And even more secret squirrel methods.

Yeah NOT the back pivot, which has no bushings anyway. That pivot can just be filed down and punched out. I'm talking about the pin slightly above that and off to the side a bit. I'm calling it the center pin because it's the closest to being in the actual center. It's between the two outside pivots and farther away from the edge than the backside tools pivot.

No, I wasn't talking about clipping it either. There's a cute little trick you can only do on that pin, and it will always work no matter what layers the SAK has, and you don't have to get between the layers to do it, which allows you to save almost all of the pin length all the way up to the rivet.

 

[kamakiri.knives]

Yeah NOT the back pivot, which has no bushings anyway. That pivot can just be filed down and punched out. I'm talking about the pin slightly above that and off to the side a bit. I'm calling it the center pin because it's the closest to being in the actual center. It's between the two outside pivots and farther away from the edge than the backside tools pivot.

The back pins on both 91mm and 84mm are always closer to the actual center.

No, I wasn't talking about clipping it either. There's a cute little trick you can only do on that pin, and it will always work no matter what layers the SAK has, and you don't have to get between the layers to do it, which allows you to save almost all of the pin length all the way up to the rivet.

That’s interesting. Everything I could do to remove a 4th pin on a 91mm could be directly applied to the end pins on an 84mm. At least for any of the non-destructive methods.

I’ve been working on my tooling for 3mm rivet ‘no-drill’ removal in 111mm frames today and yesterday. Got more of the OHO slide-lock projects to get to now that I have the parts loose.

 

[Guy McVer]

That’s interesting. Everything I could do to remove a 4th pin on a 91mm could be directly applied to the end pins on an 84mm. At least for any of the non-destructive methods.

You'll be kicking yourself when you figure out how to do it. It doesn't involve destroying anything to accomplish it either.

 

[Hickory n steel]

Here is my custom knifeless alox Rambler next to a stock Rambler

That should compliment the Sebertool m2 extremely well.
The only thing missing here is tweezers and pick for splinters, at least for me anyways.

 

[kamakiri.knives]

You'll be kicking yourself when you figure out how to do it. It doesn't involve destroying anything to accomplish it either.

If you have a ‘before’ pic of the rivet…there are some I can undo or ‘unrivet’ depending on how the rivet is finished. It loses no material but can’t be used on every condition.

My guess that it’s not likely I’d figure out the exact method you’ve found. Even if you have the before pic. Like I said, lots of ways to skin the cat.

…

On a separate note, took apart some 58mm knives so I could mock up the alox T&T mod I suggested in that other thread last week. And I noticed that those backsprings could make really good assembly levers in some cases…if they’re not too short.

 

[Guy McVer]

The only thing missing here is tweezers and pick for splinters, at least for me anyways.

There's a small pin tucked under the combo tool. You can see it in the picture. It's held in place by the magnetic tip of the Phillips driver. I think I described this in my old 'SAKs and Safety Pins' topic. The pin is fully secure when the combo tool is closed. It's not as robust as the metal pick you made, but I have used pins just like it to remove wood splinters before.

This got me thinking that I might be able to file a short pick out of some brass rod. If I get the thickness right, it should be able to friction fit into the toothpick slot of a SAK. Brass is soft and easy work with, plus it has some antimicrobial properties which could make it a good choice for a pick.

They're not in the picture, but I also have several pairs of Uncle Bill's Sliver Grippers, which are excellent tweezers. They come as stainless steel or titanium and they can be carried on a key chain or in a wallet. I've mentioned these before in a few other topics. They are USA made, and I highly recommend them.

My guess that it’s not likely I’d figure out the exact method you’ve found. Even if you have the before pic. Like I said, lots of ways to skin the cat.

Maybe I've described something wrong, then. Or it could be just one of those things where it's almost too obvious to the point that your brain kinda ignored it because you were thinking it had to be something more complicated or clever. It's not. That's why I said you'll be kicking yourself when you figure it out.

 

[WValtakis]

 

[Spikediesel]

Stonewashed Titanium and brushed Brass Compact Tinker.

 

[hsherzfeld]

Speaking of that, I figured out an easy trick to remove the center pin without drilling it, and it guarantees that you will preserve the bushing with a 100% success rate.

Oh yeah? I bet I can mess it up!

No, I wasn't talking about clipping it either. There's a cute little trick you can only do on that pin, and it will always work no matter what layers the SAK has, and you don't have to get between the layers to do it, which allows you to save almost all of the pin length all the way up to the rivet.

Do you twist the bushing until the pin fails? That's the only method I can think of that would part the pin without cutting it, but I don't see why it would be exclusive to that pin and not the pivot pins. Are you willing to share your method?

 

[Guy McVer]

Oh yeah? I bet I can mess it up!

That would be impressive!

Do you twist the bushing until the pin fails?

Interesting. No. Does that really work? Wouldn't it damage the bushing to a similar extent as the pin head?

Are you willing to share your method?

To be honest, I kinda don't want to. It would spoil the fun. It's really simple though. I'm honestly shocked that nobody has figured it out yet because it seems really obvious. For a moment there I even thought kamakiri might have figured it out. Also, I don't consider it to be my method, but if it's really true that nobody else knows it then I guess I'd eventually have to take credit for it.

 

[kamakiri.knives]

That would be impressive!

Interesting. No. Does that really work? Wouldn't it damage the bushing to a similar extent as the pin head?

To be honest, I kinda don't want to. It would spoil the fun. It's really simple though. I'm honestly shocked that nobody has figured it out yet because it seems really obvious. For a moment there I even thought kamakiri might have figured it out. Also, I don't consider it to be my method, but if it's really true that nobody else knows it then I guess I'd eventually have to take credit for it.

I think I might know now.

You used one of your recently arrived tools and the pin is reusable, but not full length. Nothing is clipped, as that would result in an even shorter pin length. But in a 5 layer knife a lot of it can be reused. The method could be done in a Spartan or even a single layer, but not really have any reusable pin. Bushings are untouched.

There are cases when a back pin can be done this way too. I think that was my issue in guessing what you did!

Edit: Some end pins can be done this way too. Lots of 111mm and pliers.