SAK Mods! Post your pics, questions and ideas

[Guy McVer]

Have anyone just made a new spring from a piece of steel/iron? I am thinking that that particular spring does not need much hardening since it´s only for one tool (and a tool that does not have much pressure to it while using the tool.

I doubt it. Too much work. It's not worth all the extra effort and hazard just to get an inevitably inferior part that won't match the rest of the SAK. I mean, maybe you can match Victorinox steel, but I surely wouldn't be able to do it. I think most people would have a very hard time with it. Whatever you could come up with probably wouldn't function as well or be as durable or as corrosion resistant either. It's better just to modify an existing spring, and it's a lot less work requiring a lot less ability.

If you want an example of how this can go wrong even when you have all the right talent and resources at your disposal, then just look at the backsprings on the Leatherman Juice line. They had a tendency to randomly snap, although I do think a large part of the problem was that they were too thin at the ends and they used a steel which was a little too brittle.

Victorinox has been doing things the same way for a looooooong time. They know their trade. They are very slow to make any adjustments to how things are done. It's best not to mess with that.

 

[PQGK]

Inspired by Felix Immler

The rangergrips (or most) have a hex tool cut out on the liners from the front scale side opposite to the badge
The front scale has a hex "engraving" or partial cut out on the inside of the scale next to the liner hex cut out, so cut it out or cut right through (more or less)

Now it accommodates hex bits or hex tool attachments like the larger Ranger grips
I didn't do it as well as Felix Immler but it does the job

 

[Barbababa]

I doubt it. Too much work. It's not worth all the extra effort and hazard just to get an inevitably inferior part that won't match the rest of the SAK. I mean, maybe you can match Victorinox steel, but I surely wouldn't be able to do it. I think most people would have a very hard time with it. Whatever you could come up with probably wouldn't function as well or be as durable or as corrosion resistant either. It's better just to modify an existing spring, and it's a lot less work requiring a lot less ability.

If you want an example of how this can go wrong even when you have all the right talent and resources at your disposal, then just look at the backsprings on the Leatherman Juice line. They had a tendency to randomly snap, although I do think a large part of the problem was that they were too thin at the ends and they used a steel which was a little too brittle.

Victorinox has been doing things the same way for a looooooong time. They know their trade. They are very slow to make any adjustments to how things are done. It's best not to mess with that.

I am not so sure there is more work making a new spring from scratch when it´s not hardened steel yet. My point was not to match the original steel, just the shape of the spring. I have some old knives with thinner "tripple! spring, that is 3 thin springs next to each other. maybe that could be something to try? And to be clear, just for the scissors, since that spring don´t get much pressure while using the tool.

 

[Guy McVer]

I am not so sure there is more work making a new spring from scratch when it´s not hardened steel yet. My point was not to match the original steel, just the shape of the spring. I have some old knives with thinner "tripple! spring, that is 3 thin springs next to each other. maybe that could be something to try? And to be clear, just for the scissors, since that spring don´t get much pressure while using the tool.

If you want to make it for your own personal use and you don't care about it not matching at all, then go for it. Nobody is stopping you. I still say it's going to be more work than simply modifying an existing spring, and what you're getting from that extra work will be an inferior part. In my opinion that's why it's not done by anyone. There's probably no demand for it either. If you think you can demonstrate otherwise through your own experimentation, then you may end up showing people a viable alternative and creating a demand where previously none existed. Good luck.

 

[kamakiri.knives]

Question.
When building a mod with 91mm scissors in a 84mm frame, there seems to be som heavy work to be done to the spring to make it fit... Have anyone just made a new spring from a piece of steel/iron? I am thinking that that particular spring does not need much hardening since it´s only for one tool (and a tool that does not have much pressure to it while using the tool.

It’s been done by some of the higher volume modders, justified it by getting it farmed out in large batches. If you’re going to do it in volume I think the biggest consideration is how you get the shape done. Laser cut, punched out or whatever. And how precise that shape is…and how much work you’d want to trim/finish it.

 

[Barbababa]

It’s been done by some of the higher volume modders, justified it by getting it farmed out in large batches. If you’re going to do it in volume I think the biggest consideration is how you get the shape done. Laser cut, punched out or whatever. And how precise that shape is…and how much work you’d want to trim/finish it.

I have found that the scissors is not that useful to me on a SAK. After really looking at what I use, I find the saw a more useful tool . But, I have been asked the question if it can be done or if I can help, and I have read that many wants to ad a scissor to a 84mm model, so I thought I ask the pros I have a friend who is a knife maker, he makes every part of the knife including the blade and spring. I have asked him if one could use a spring that is not sent for hardening in a case like this (but he have not gotten back to me yet). I also asked what he thinks about using G-10 or similar as a spring for the scissors. I think Carbon-fiber should be hard enough, and flexible enough, for a tool that´s not put under the same test as a blade...
I have a scissors and spring from a Alox pioneer in the drawers some were, I will try to make a spring in 2mm G-10 to see how it holds up. If it does, it could be a quick and easy way to ad scissors to a 84mm. With my tools I find it hard even to drill bigger holes in the tools. If I had the proper tools I would make my own springs in damast

 

[kamakiri.knives]

I think Carbon-fiber should be hard enough, and flexible enough, for a tool that´s not put under the same test as a blade...

This sounds worth investigating. I’d try it when I get my workshop area back up and running. I’ve worked a bit with resins in the past for other hobbies. Mostly fiberglass for surfboards and automotive…but a lot of the techniques are essentially the same.

I’m interested in hearing you’re G10 testing…but I’m not sure it has the right elasticity for spring use.

Stacked thin springs should be easy enough. I’ve never done it for the cosmetic reasons and not looking ‘original’. I’m sure many wouldn’t care if it meant getting the 84X they want. Wenger did it all the time…and Victorinox used a pair for the Cybertool layer.

 

[Barbababa]

K kamakiri.knives (and anyone else who is interested) Here comes a first, very simple testrun...

https://imgur.com/FclRMVq

It works like a charm

https://imgur.com/zTdeA48

I had a piece of 3mm white G-10 that I used for the test. I copied the shape of a original Alox Pioneer X spring.

https://imgur.com/zHZQpID

I will do a similar test if/when i find a 84mm scissors spring. If one would do this mod in a 3 layer 84mm, I think it could be cool to do the spring in matching colour to what ever colour scales is used. Why not a orange spring with black scales?
And since this is just a copy of the original shape of the spring to see if it would hold up, I am sure that one could make one that is thicker and follows the shape of the scissors instead, that sure would make it super strong

 

[Guy McVer]

I was not expecting a spring made from g10. Very cool idea.

Do you think it will last? Won't the area contacting the scissors get worn down from the friction caused by the scissors opening and closing? I don't know how durable and resistant to wear g10 is. It must be pretty durable if modders are using it to make custom SAK liners. What about when you peen the SAK? Will the g10 still work well enough as a spring when there is pressure on the sides? Would it be better to use the g10 spring with g10 liners instead of the aluminum ones?

 

[kamakiri.knives]

Awesome! How close does it feel to stock? Any of the thinner parts can be cut thicker next time to proportionately increase the spring compression, or just cut the spring with a tiny bit more curvature. Excellent work!

 

[Barbababa]

Awesome! How close does it feel to stock? Any of the thinner parts can be cut thicker next time to proportionately increase the spring compression, or just cut the spring with a tiny bit more curvature. Excellent work!

It’s snappy in & out, the pull is a bit on the weak side (4out of 10). I think that one could make the area between the center pin and the back a bit thicker with just a cutout for the handle of the scissors to make it a bit harder to pull. This is a Alox pioneer, so it’s longer, my guess is it will be a little bit harder pull in a shorter 84 frame.
On the positive side I don’t see or feel any tendency to weaken or slacking after opening and closing multiple times. And again, a scissor only needs to stay in place while opened or closed, no actual force to it under use. I pulled the scissors hard, like if I was using a blade, and it felt steady as a rock

 

[Guy McVer]

It’s snappy in & out, the pull is a bit on the weak side (4out of 10). I think that one could make the area between the center pin and the back a bit thicker with just a cutout for the handle of the scissors to make it a bit harder to pull.

If you need to make that spot thick enough that you run into the issue of the scissors not being able to close fully any more, then you could work around this a bit by removing some material from the end of the scissor arm with a grinder or a diamond file. But if you remove too much material then the scissor arm starts to look a bit weird... so yeah. It could be useful to shave a little bit off of the scissor arm if you just need to get that little bit of extra resistance out of the g10 but it would be slightly too thick.

 

[Barbababa]

I was not expecting a spring made from g10. Very cool idea.

Do you think it will last? Won't the area contacting the scissors get worn down from the friction caused by the scissors opening and closing? I don't know how durable and resistant to wear g10 is. It must be pretty durable if modders are using it to make custom SAK liners. What about when you peen the SAK? Will the g10 still work well enough as a spring when there is pressure on the sides? Would it be better to use the g10 spring with g10 liners instead of the aluminum ones?

Yes, I think the material will last forever G-10 is basically carbon fiber (but glass instead of carbon). I guess Spikediesel can educate us on the material he uses alot It´s both hard and flexible at the same time, and withstands a lot of abuse.
The only time there is stress on the spring is when opening and closing (70°-110°) and that is for such a short time I find it hard to think it will be any major wear on the spring. Off course, a long term test would give certain answers. I might even try to do a spring for a single blade just to see how it will hold up...

 

[Guy McVer]

Yes, I think the material will last forever G-10 is basically carbon fiber (but glass instead of carbon). I guess Spikediesel can educate us on the material he uses alot It´s both hard and flexible at the same time, and withstands a lot of abuse.
The only time there is stress on the spring is when opening and closing (70°-110°) and that is for such a short time I find it hard to think it will be any major wear on the spring. Off course, a long term test would give certain answers. I might even try to do a spring for a single blade just to see how it will hold up...

I thought it was more like a flexible plastic fiberglass type material (hence the need for wearing a breather when working with it), but yeah I'm completely ignorant about it. I know that it's more durable than regular plastic, but my one concern about it is that it will get worn down too easily by dirt and grit between the point where the spring rubs against the area around the pivot for the scissors. You can shape g10 pretty easily by sanding it, so it stands to reason that it would be more susceptible to this kind of wear and tear than a piece of stainless steel would be.

Modders have been using g10 to make custom liners for quite a while now, so it can't be too much of an issue... but I do still wonder.

 

[Barbababa]

Awesome! How close does it feel to stock? Any of the thinner parts can be cut thicker next time to proportionately increase the spring compression, or just cut the spring with a tiny bit more curvature. Excellent work!

Something like this I think wold make it stiffen a bit

https://imgur.com/a/aYR3lir

And if it’s shorter in an 84mm it might be really tough to pull

 

[Spikediesel]

Yes, I think the material will last forever G-10 is basically carbon fiber (but glass instead of carbon). I guess Spikediesel can educate us on the material he uses alot It´s both hard and flexible at the same time, and withstands a lot of abuse.
The only time there is stress on the spring is when opening and closing (70°-110°) and that is for such a short time I find it hard to think it will be any major wear on the spring. Off course, a long term test would give certain answers. I might even try to do a spring for a single blade just to see how it will hold up...

G10 is super strong, it’s made from layers of woven fiberglass mat impregnated with epoxy resin. I wouldn’t hesitate to use it for a scissor backspring as it would likely last many years at that role, sure it will wear over time but if kept lubricated wear will be minimal. The issue I have using it for a blade backspring is that if too much force is applied to the blade the G10 spring could fail and cause injury.

 

[Guy McVer]

I wouldn’t hesitate to use it for a scissor backspring as it would likely last many years at that role, sure it will wear over time but if kept lubricated wear will be minimal.

Well... I did think of a way to stop that part of the g10 spring from getting worn down, but now it sounds like it's not even necessary.

I'll share the idea anyway. You could put a little plate of brass or copper or some other metal where the backspring contacts the scissors. It can be inlayed (placed into a depression in the g10) and shaped to match the contour of the spring. The scissor will pivot against the small metal plate instead of rubbing against the g10.

 

[Barbababa]

Wip

https://imgur.com/a/47faYVy

https://imgur.com/a/bDZEE2g

https://imgur.com/a/bVqCNA8

 

[Barbababa]

https://imgur.com/a/n6We4a7

The scales are almost ready for mounting and peening. The colour turned out quite nice, something that’s hard to predict when making something for the first time. Next time I will try to colour the Jute before making the micarta

 

[dogstar]

I tried out the reamer on my Camper on a scrap piece of pine yesterday. It worked, but it also split the wood. Today I took a look at the reamer of my Farmer and noticed the tip had a nice taper to it. I started wondering if I could do the same to the Camper's awl.

You can see, I did not remove a lot of material. I didn't want to risk weakening the tip too much. I can always remove more steel later if I want, but this seemed to make a difference. It feels pointier to the touch, and I was able to make a couple of holes without splitting my stick.