SEARS KNIFE WORLD

Cbatch8tw- always great finding a knife! Are you going to clean it up?
I would hit it with 0000Grade Steel Wool and Mineral Oil!
 
I was just glad to get the white one open, haven’t picked it up since, so ideas to get the next step is appreciated, like those mentioned above, as the springs are still pretty good.
 
Scrap it down first to get the minute "Crust" off first - people may gasp in horror but I use an older Blade from an old Knife to scrape that crust off - if you hold the blade similar to a sharpening stone - you get what I mean- this works well and doesn't scratch- I suggested this to another chap and he was surprised it worked so well. Obviously if you are careless with this method you will scratch the hang out of it.

Bamboo food skewers are good for doing to same in the Long Pulls and inside the liners.

I don't usually use anything coarser that 0000 Grade Steel wool- anything coarser and you start to "shine' the Steel which looks terrible. So use the Mineral Oil and 0000Steel Wool after the scraping ( the scraping removes the active red rust - works well ).

Then plenty of action with the Walk and Talk using Mineral oil in the Joints- make sure you clean the joints out during this - perhaps with a spray can of WD-40 - then Mineral Oil again and repeat until you are happy.
The Knife isn't Super Valuable - so you can have a bit of fun doing this and I guarantee you that you will be surprised just how well your Knife will work afterwards.
Then....Bang an edge on it! Let us know :) :thumbsup:
 
Sears as we have seen now have put out some stunning Cattle Knives, this guy here is over 80 years old, used well, looked after with that use - and still is a great looking Knife, if one was to choose an all rounder knife this is a great contender.

The Bone is a little faded over the years, imo still nice looking, The Etch: Sta Sharp Four Bladed Cattle Knife is still visible, tang Stamp: High Carbon Steel USA.
A Camillus Through and Through, enjoying having top position in Sears range just before Ulster stepped up and stole the Crown. I just think that this Knife is still a awesome Knife!

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Here are a quick peek at the 4 bladed Cattle Knives previously shown in the Thread, not so much the Stockman four Bladed examples- that are stunning , more so the same sized frame as this guy above ^^ just to compare with this used example...

Previously shown- Camillus using the Robeson Styled Punch in this fine example - as you can see the Punch style change and the Shield Change and different Bone.

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The exact same Cattle Knife with different Etching this Cattle Knife shows the 4 Star Etching

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Also the Ulsters shown previously...

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So you were spoilt for choice in whatever direction Sears wanted to attract the Buyer with their changes in Marketing. Note the differences in the Spey Blade shape, as well as the Sheepsfoot that has a more looping curvature from the Spine to the Tip of the Blade compared to Camillus's slightly sharper "right angled" shape from the Spine to the tip, in some of the slimmer framed patterns where the Blades are of course slimmer- this can be hard to pick up. Of course the Ulster Punches in the two examples above add to the identification.
 
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I ISKRA I saw your Ulster in the Old Knife thread, the Ulster 9528 came out in the late 1941, the 9528 there has the Craftsman Main Etch, along with the Sub Brand Chrome Vanadium, it gets harder to identify knives like Charlie posted after yours in the Old Knife Thread when they don't have a Sub brand or Catalog number.

Made in the USA was used by more than one manufacturer for Sears, Charlies with the MADE IN USA Tang stamp means it could also be Camillus, and boy - at times getting a Camillus and Ulster together - in these sized Knives can be extremely hard to tell the differences, we should have a look at both Knives with all Blades out for comparison. Both Camillus and Ulster used Identical Bone handles in Jig and Colouring - so man it gets tricky, that is why many people who see a Knife like Charlies automatically call it an Camillus when in fact a lot of the times it's an Ulster.

Usually on the bigger Knives, like Cattles, you can identify the different Sheepsfoot Blade shape as well as the Spey - and most definitely of course the Punch, but when the frames get smaller and thinner- so of course do the blades, and telling the differences between the above mentioned ( apart from Punches) can be near impossible, and thats when it comes down to side by side comparisons with a Knife that does have identifying stamps/numbers etc.
 
Campbellclanman said:
I ISKRA I saw your Ulster in the Old Knife thread, the Ulster 9528 came out in the late 1941, the 9528 there has the Craftsman Main Etch, along with the Sub Brand Chrome Vanadium, it gets harder to identify knives like Charlie posted after yours in the Old Knife Thread when they don't have a Sub brand or Catalog number.

Made in the USA was used by more than one manufacturer for Sears, Charlies with the MADE IN USA Tang stamp means it could also be Camillus, and boy - at times getting a Camillus and Ulster together - in these sized Knives can be extremely hard to tell the differences, we should have a look at both Knives with all Blades out for comparison. Both Camillus and Ulster used Identical Bone handles in Jig and Colouring - so man it gets tricky, that is why many people who see a Knife like Charlies automatically call it an Camillus when in fact a lot of the times it's an Ulster.

Usually on the bigger Knives, like Cattles, you can identify the different Sheepsfoot Blade shape as well as the Spey - and most definitely of course the Punch, but when the frames get smaller and thinner- so of course do the blades, and telling the differences between the above mentioned ( apart from Punches) can be near impossible, and thats when it comes down to side by side comparisons with a Knife that does have identifying stamps/numbers etc.
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You're a well of Sears info, Duncan! I wonder if Charlie's might not be Camillus? We'll see.

Would this bone be considered Rogers, or did they source it elsewhere? It seems more redish than the Rogers one usually sees.
 
I ISKRA - Thank you kind Sir- if you view the comparison photo's I put up in the Old Knife Thread after your posting of your nice Ulster and have a look at the differences that are pointed out, then go straight to Charlie's Knife- you should be able to see immediately that it's an Ulster. Nice Knives by the way.

It could be Rodgers Bone? I am not sure - but that colouring I find is so gorgeous, it really sets a lot of both the Camillus and Ulster Knives off beautifully doesn't it!

That Peanut that you posted above is a beauty- what a neat pair of awesome Knives right there!!
 
Campbellclanman said:
I ISKRA - Thank you kind Sir- if you view the comparison photo's I put up in the Old Knife Thread after your posting of your nice Ulster and have a look at the differences that are pointed out, then go straight to Charlie's Knife- you should be able to see immediately that it's an Ulster. Nice Knives by the way.

It could be Rodgers Bone? I am not sure - but that colouring I find is so gorgeous, it really sets a lot of both the Camillus and Ulster Knives off beautifully doesn't it!

That Peanut that you posted above is a beauty- what a neat pair of awesome Knives right there!!
Click to expand...

You're right, I saw your comparison photos in the other thread after posting here. I jumped to conclusions a bit too fast eh. 😅

The bone is great, such a nice warm colour!

Thank you, it was quite a lucky chance to get them both.
 
Campbellclanman said:
Scrap it down first to get the minute "Crust" off first - people may gasp in horror but I use an older Blade from an old Knife to scrape that crust off - if you hold the blade similar to a sharpening stone - you get what I mean- this works well and doesn't scratch- I suggested this to another chap and he was surprised it worked so well. Obviously if you are careless with this method you will scratch the hang out of it.

Bamboo food skewers are good for doing to same in the Long Pulls and inside the liners.

I don't usually use anything coarser that 0000 Grade Steel wool- anything coarser and you start to "shine' the Steel which looks terrible. So use the Mineral Oil and 0000Steel Wool after the scraping ( the scraping removes the active red rust - works well ).

Then plenty of action with the Walk and Talk using Mineral oil in the Joints- make sure you clean the joints out during this - perhaps with a spray can of WD-40 - then Mineral Oil again and repeat until you are happy.
The Knife isn't Super Valuable - so you can have a bit of fun doing this and I guarantee you that you will be surprised just how well your Knife will work afterwards.
Then....Bang an edge on it! Let us know :) :thumbsup:
Click to expand...
Thanks for all the help, just have to find the time to to i. Appreciated.
 
I'm still kind of new around here on Blade Forums, and I just found this thread thanks to Campbellclanman Campbellclanman 's signature line. I read the whole thing this morning over coffee and learned so much! Thanks to everyone who contributes to this thread and keeps it going.

Here are a few pictures of my Craftsman scout pattern knives. Nothing we haven't seen already on this thread, but just thought I'd contribute and bump the thread up.

Myron

L to R: 9548 Sta-Sharp, 9467 Belt Clip, and a 9549 delrin.

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