Sharpening Record Page

Just finished building my own strope (and it works :D ), I thought I add a little bit to this thread. And as there seem to be only few bigger blades, I tried hairwhittling with my BK-9 and my Heavy Bowie. I'm still working on the Battle Rat in this pic though.

choppers.jpg


And here are the results

first.jpg
second.jpg



The direction in which I tried to whittle hair was quite important. One way it worked perfectly, other way round? Nothing... Maybe I can get it to work both ways. Here's my strope as a final pic (it's green, so guess what I use ;) )

strope.jpg


Take care,
Morales
 
Hey Morales, where did you get your leather from? I have wood and compound but I'm not sure where to get leather, and I have some friends who could use a strop.
 
Vivi said:
Hey Morales, where did you get your leather from? I have wood and compound but I'm not sure where to get leather, and I have some friends who could use a strop.
Click to expand...

Tandy Leather Factory is the best place for leather - thin and pores is what I use, and do not glue it.

Other place - WoodCraft carpenter shop network.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
Vivi said:
Hey Morales, where did you get your leather from?
Click to expand...
Well, I just got it from a store two blocks from my apartment. They had all kinds of leather ranging from under 1 to over 6 mm. Quite amazing and it was cheap. But now comes the disappointing part: I live in the north of Germany, so I guess I can't be much of a help for you. Anyway, drop me a mail through BF if you like. Now I gotta get that Battle Rat working...
 
craft stores also sell leather scraps. I got a bag from Hobby Lobby with a lot of pieces more than large enough for strops.
 
I have always used handamerican leather, you can find it at woodcraft or japaneseknifesharpening.com
 
This is my first post,thought I'd pass along something I learned from a welder about 20+ years ago. He gave me a TIG electrode (tungsten,red end)to steel a newly sharpened blade. I beleive the steel really realigns the edge and although this rod is smooth it imparts a wicked finish. The rods can be purchased at a welding supply place or I've seen them on line for about $30 for a six pack. Keep one and sell the rest to friends as I've had one for twenty years and it works every time.I set mine in an old wood tool handle as you wont forget the first time you slip onto your index finger if you just hold on to the rod. It's also great for a quick touch up between stonings. A final strop always sets it off right.Hope you find this helpful.
 
I did it . Hair whittling sharp. Used a magazine to strop it. I learned that trick here. The knife. Chicago Cutlery carbon steel boning knife. My camera isnt very good at macro . I hope it shows up.

2008-10-25.jpg
 
Don't have picture, put 12C26 from my Kershaw Groove and Rainbow leek will whittle my hair. My ZT 0150 whittled hair outta the box :eek:
 
Could someone please send me the measurements of the wood block as used in these threads, I would like to have two of these blocks made, OR does anyone made and sell the blocks .

Thanks cliff
 
Could someone please send me the measurements of the wood block as used in these threads, I would like to have two of these blocks made, OR does anyone made and sell the blocks . ihave the compound and strope.
Thanks
CLIFF
 
What block do you mean? For strop base, use 12" long and 1" wide. In general longer is better because you can affect entire edge with one move. Width 1" better then 5" for knife blades, because blades are curved.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
I need the specs. for The Wood Block that is used to hold the sharpening stones



Could someone please send me the measurements of the wood block as used in these threads, I would like to have two of these blocks made, OR does anyone made and sell the blocks . I have the compound and strope.
Thanks
CLIFF
 
JCL said:
I need the specs. for The Wood Block that is used to hold the sharpening stones



Could someone please send me the measurements of the wood block as used in these threads, I would like to have two of these blocks made, OR does anyone made and sell the blocks . I have the compound and strope.
Thanks
CLIFF
Click to expand...

It is about 13" long, 4" high, 2 3/4" wide, so hypotenuse - 14 1/4". I went to WoodCraft choose big piece of basswood and ask them to cut it diagonally so it will be triangular with 15 degree smallest angle. In general it should be - height is sin( 15 ) and length is cos (15 ) multiplied by hypotenuse...

Thanks, Vassili.
 
I never realized that I finally got to this point, but here it is. No super steel necessary!

hairwhittlingek0.jpg


Kershaw Skyline Sandvik 13C26 steel.

DMT Medium->Fine->Extra Fine->Black compound stropping->Natural leather stropping.

The other knives that I've gotten to do this:
- Benchmade Mini-Rukus S30V (the sharpest)
- Spyderco Tenacious 8CrMo13

All can push-cut newsprint easily.
 
Nice job on the Skyline. I feel it's one of Kershaws best designs to date.

I need to order myself the DMT extra fine. I've been using the fine this whole time, and it's really not that high of a grit....
 
Vivi said:
Nice job on the Skyline. I feel it's one of Kershaws best designs to date.

I need to order myself the DMT extra fine. I've been using the fine this whole time, and it's really not that high of a grit....
Click to expand...
Thanks. Indeed, I really like the Skyline - it has a great blade shape, a very comfortable handle, it doesn't look aggressive, yet deploys almost instantly into either tip-up or tip-down grip.

I wish Kershaw would come out with a slightly higher-end model, that uses a premium steel (S30V please) and 2 liners instead of only one side. It would add a little weight, but would make the knife feel that much more solid.
 
i got my tramontina 18in machete to hair whittle guit easy useing my new
1x30 in belt sander repofileing with 40 grit belt 80 g 120g the the convexed it useing 320g 400g and 2000g the strop loaded with brkt compound and i got these results

 
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