Shop addition: New Grinder

Bending over all the time when you work is tough... limits the time I can stand to work.
 
I think those old desks are cool. I wish that I was near you because I would snag it in an instant.
 
This morning I spent a couple of hours reorganizing the space to make room for the scaffold. I had to reorganize the Elfa shelving that is ubiquitous in the garage (and the house) so I could have the extra 12 inches of space I need without encroaching on the entry way. I also unfastened the vise so I can move it.

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I was going to take down the display case, but then considered that it would still fit the space. So I simply repurposed it. Instead of displaying radios, now it can display the handle materials I have. Almost all of the wood in the case is stabilized (save for the blocks that cannot be stabilized or don't need it). Top shelf contains mostly animal parts (antlers, ivory), the rest are all wood. Best pieces are on the bottom shelf for easy viewing, more plain pieces on second shelf, lower grade stuff on third shelf. No more guessing whether I have the right kind of piece... and it emptied the Steelcase desk of it's supplies.

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Almost ready to ditch the desk.
 
Holy crap that's a lot of wood! Would last me my whole knifemaking career. That's a lot of money there. I would have invested that in tooling myself but of course I am a tool junky. ;)

As nice as the display is, with your limited space, I would remove it. Better tool/supplies holding alternatives.
 
Yeah, I figure I have two lifetimes of wood now. I'll stop buying more... some day... maybe.
 
You may be right about taking down the display. My wife had a look at it just now and said, "You have WAY too much wood. You must be collecting it." She never complained when it was out of sight. ;)

I'll consider your storage offer, Patrice. In the meantime, if you need a piece, you know who to come to.
 
Awesome Greg! If you visit Portland I have 10' of 2"x3" angle for the flat platen. I too bought both platens for my GIB. I'm happy I got both but haven't bought wheels for both yet.
I welded my base to the main upright, everything else easily bolted together.
I'm super happy with the KBAC VFD and motor from Wayne Coe. They came with easy step by step instructions to wire the motor and VFD in minutes. I also bought the power cord, cable glands and forward/reverse switch from him.
I got the 1.5 Hp 3Ph 1725 RPM motor, then set the VFD to 2x speed.
I also have a lifetime supply of 2"x8" Pyroceram if you want some.
Wheels... The budget wheels from USAknifemaker are good, but don't have a sleeve/budging between the bearings so there's a very small slop in the wheels. If you overtighten to remove the slop, the bearings sideload causing friction.
Beaumont's(KMG) wheels are more money but are sleeved and can be tightened completely.
Happy grinding!!
 
Thanks for the tips, Brian. I plan to get good wheels, so I'll definitely check out KMG's.
 
I like the shallow drawers of tool chests for stuff.

You can layout all of it so you can see it all, but when you close or lock the drawers, it's out of sight, out of mind for everyone else.


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Hmmmmm. I put the 4" drive wheel on mine with the VFD at 2x speed. Did you calculate out the belts speed to decide on the 6" drive wheel? I'm by no means an expert, just thought the 4" drive wheel was standard with the GIB?
Are you getting a VFD? And which motor?
 
Brian Ayres said:
Hmmmmm. I put the 4" drive wheel on mine with the VFD at 2x speed. Did you calculate out the belts speed to decide on the 6" drive wheel? I'm by no means an expert, just thought the 4" drive wheel was standard with the GIB?
Are you getting a VFD? And which motor?
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Yes, 4" is standard. I'm planning on starting with a fixed speed motor and three step pulleys. Haven't picked the motor yet.

And yes, Paul, I did consider raising the desk... still AM considering it, but don't really want to go that route. The cost would not be substantially lower than the scaffold.
 
chad2 said:
every house has a double bar power source that your breakers run off of, each side is 110 V AC. the dryer gets 220 by pulling from both sides. usually there will be two diff breakers for the garage find out which outlet runs off of which breaker by pluging everything in and shutting off the breaker you think it is and see what turns off. make sure that this power source does not run to the garage door! when you pin point the outlet take the nuetral from that breaker take another breaker put it right next to the original breaker and hook the nuetral wire up to that breaker this will give you 220 to that outlet. i am an electrician so if you need any help with this let me know and i can put up picture directions for you. this will get ride of the extention cord problem it is also easy to switch back.
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Are you suggesting to run 220 without a wiring upgrade? I'm not an electrician but that sounds dangerous. All of my 220 ciruits have dedicated 220type double breakers. Aside from my dryer which is on double post 40amp 120 breakers.
 
If I was going to set myself with 220V I'd definitely have an electrician do it to code, just like I did when I had the 20A circuit pulled. I don't want to run afoul of inspectors when it comes time to sell this house. I know I could do it myself... but I won't.
 
Rick Marchand said:
Are you suggesting to run 220 without a wiring upgrade? I'm not an electrician but that sounds dangerous. All of my 220 ciruits have dedicated 220type double breakers. Aside from my dryer which is on double post 40amp 120 breakers.
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ok when doing the 220 upgrade to a socket for a heat treat oven you want to make sure that the oven is the only thing running off of that socket. do not try to do a double socket. which with a paragon kiln that runs off of 220 you have to upgrade the socket anyways which makes it a single socket, so this should not be a problem. also a heat treat oven does not pull nearly enough amps to cause any trouble.

now when you are talking about a dryer, that thing is running heat elements, motors, fans and many other things all at the same time for a good amount of time. so yes if you are doing this for anything other then a kiln you should upgrade the wiring and the breaker. but my paragon kiln is (220 V AC 16 amps) which most 110 V AC breakers are 15 amp breakers so doubling up two 15 amp breakers is not going to hurt anything.

wiring is not really a problem because they go big when it comes to housing electrical anyways and your house if done right should have solid copper wires which even a solid copper 20 gage wire can run 220 at 30 amps forever. so wiring is not an issue especialy with the low amps that a kiln pulls.

if you are worried hook it up turn you kiln on full to the highest degrees it will go and check how hot the wiring is getting coming from the breaker i can promise you it will never get above warm.

hope this helps :)
 
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tryppyr said:
If I was going to set myself with 220V I'd definitely have an electrician do it to code, just like I did when I had the 20A circuit pulled. I don't want to run afoul of inspectors when it comes time to sell this house. I know I could do it myself... but I won't.
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yes most people dont like messing with electrical stuff in the house i guess it is easier for me because i do it for a living. but something to think about is the way i am doing it is just as easy to reverse :)
 
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