Shop addition: New Grinder

chad2 said:
yes most people dont like messing with electrical stuff in the house i guess it is easier for me because i do it for a living. but something to think about is the way i am doing it is just as easy to reverse :)
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Don't get me wrong, I've done electrical work... even installed junction boxes and new outlets. But the thing is, I don't know the codes. For example, when we had the 20A circuit installed, I didn't know what gauge of wire was proper, or that a GFI socket was required. I also didn't know what sort of conduit was needed. And rather than take a chance of having to get that pulled out later (on my nickle), I'd opt to spend to get it done right the first time.

Anyway, it's a moot point since I'm going to stick with a 110V system.
 
tryppyr said:
Don't get me wrong, I've done electrical work... even installed junction boxes and new outlets. But the thing is, I don't know the codes. For example, when we had the 20A circuit installed, I didn't know what gauge of wire was proper, or that a GFI socket was required. I also didn't know what sort of conduit was needed. And rather than take a chance of having to get that pulled out later (on my nickle), I'd opt to spend to get it done right the first time.

Anyway, it's a moot point since I'm going to stick with a 110V system.
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sounds good i dont think you will have any trouble with your choice. but if you ever do change your mind and have any questions just ask ;)
 
Today I found some legs from a long disassembled Ikea table that just might work at lifting the desk to a workable height. In the interest of frugality I am going to try that before making the investment in the scaffold. The only thing I need to complete this experiment is a pipe cutter that can handle 2 inch pipes.

Amusingly, when I told my wife I was thinking about raising the desk she thought I was asking her to get involved in lifting it while I installed the leg extensions. Happily, I have a better plan... I'll use the 3 ton car jack seen in the first picture.
 
Greg, I would have gone the other way and made a raised top for the desk. You could have things cut at Home Depot or wherever you buy your wood. 2 layers of plywood, maybe 5/8, would give you a strong top. 6 4x4 post, the 2 in the middle bolted through the desk top with the corners just with long lag bolts, not too big as everything will be solid once you got the grinder weight on there. All materials and cuts should be fairly inexpensive. And it gives you more storage space between the top and the desk, maybe even put a couple of drawers in there.
 
You need to understand, Patrice, I have no woodworking tools. Making things from wood is not really an option for me. I once had a miter saw... but it broke. I have no table saw or circular saw, no jigsaw, nor any sanding tools for large wood pieces. I do have a couple of old hand saws. I'm just not willing to invest in those tools for this project, only to have to store them in an already overstuffed garage.
 
Greg, I remember you saying you did not have tools or experience. You don't need tools, simply a drill but you must have that. You have the pieces cut at the store. Here they charge 1$ per cut and it's all square and nice. No sander needed, just hand sand the edges a little for small splinters but that's it. If only you did not live a zillion mile away from me. I'd gladly give you a hand. :(
 
I do appreciate what you're saying... I'm just having trouble wrapping my brain around it. One other thing, raising the desk the way I'm planning will make space underneath for one of the rolling tool chest I already have. Total investment to try it this way will be $12 for the pipe cutter, which might actually come in handy some other time too.
 
Are the Ikea legs metal? Buy a portaband saw?:thumbup::D
Another thought on your GIB. One of the great things about it is the direct drive. It makes setting it up super simple. Maybe consider a budget VFD like a Teco TM50 like Salem Straub uses? It'll save you hours of setting up step pulleys and adapting the GIB.
 
The Ikea legs are metal... 2 inch round tubes. That's what makes them ideal. I already have a portable bandsaw. but I think the pipe cutter will do a better job of giving me a straight cut. And since the likelihood is I'll need to trim them down once or twice, I think it will be easier with the pipe cutter.
 
2" square steel plates with a hole trough it, big bolt and nuts will give you adjustable feet if you need them. Of course cedar shingles will also do the job but I know you are allergic to wood. ;)
 
Good news!!! My G-I-B arrived today. Now I just need to figure out how to assemble it... and where to get the additional parts... and how to use it... and how to get better at using it... and where to put it... and so on.

Life was much less complicated yesterday. ;)
 
Haha Congrats Greg, we better see photos of a completed GIB tonight or at the very latest Tomorrow. :D
 
tryppyr said:
Good news!!! My G-I-B arrived today. Now I just need to figure out how to assemble it... and where to get the additional parts... and how to use it... and how to get better at using it... and where to put it... and so on.

Life was much less complicated yesterday. ;)
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Congratulations! The first thing I did is sand down the edges of it because the laser cut leaves it looking like a rat chewed on it. A 36Grit wheel on an angle grinder did it quickly and smoothly. Also save yourself a lot of hassle and find someone to weld the upright to the base.
 
Woot woot! Yup! Get the upright welded! Square.....

Jamie has a nuts n bolts breakdown on his site. Get the heavy wall or solid 1-1/2" for you tool arm and work rest. Thin wall won't do.
 
I can certainly see why you'd recommend welding the upright. I just spent the last hour drilling the four holes to bolt it in place, only to discover the tap and die set I thought I had turned out to be imaginary. Also, I don't have a drill bit large enough to countersink the base holes to handle the hex head screws with a socket around it. I've decided to go instead with a conical head screw, but the only ones I have are 1.5" long... WAY too long... so I need to get some shorter ones and the tap and die set (a real one this time, even though they cost more than the imaginary ones). I suppose I could shorten the screws I have, but I've never been all that successful at shortening screws... they just never work after I shorten them.

Sadly, I don't know anyone in the area I would trust to do the welding, so (as usual) looks like I'll be doing things the hard way.

Hate to disappoint, but there'll be no pics tonight. ;)
 
Call Dave Lisch at Studio 4 Forging. Or e-mail him PM through the forums. D.Lisch, He has a knife school in Seattle. And is an awesome bladesmith And, as a blacksmith too, will know where to get the metal for your platen and arms. Maybe even know who could weld it. Anyone who puts up with Ray Richard is a good guy.
 
tryppyr said:
I suppose I could shorten the screws I have, but I've never been all that successful at shortening screws... they just never work after I shorten them.
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Just bevel the edge of the screw after you have cut it off- maybe 45 degrees

That's the true purpose of your triangular file & knife edge file.
Get it in the root of the last thread and file out the burr on that last thread.


I do agree- much easier to buy a box of shorter screws, but sometimes you just need one.
 
Congrats on the GIB! I literally just finished mine tonight and ground my first blade with it!

FWIW, I got the square tuding and angle iron from onlinemetals.com - great prices, and the shipping was very reasonable considering the weight. The onyl comment I had about the pricingf estimate is that is assumes you have all the drills and taps and a lot of little bits and pieces. I would guess this added another $100 to $150. Well worth it in the end, just not exactly what I had in mind in terms of budget.

Have fun building!
 
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