-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Show the factory knives you've customized ... part 2
- Thread starter cpirtle
- Start date
- Joined
- May 16, 2002
- Messages
- 4,437
Elk antler Seax by Bob stine, I did the etching, gilding, handle carvinng and pinwork.
Keith
Keith
- Joined
- May 16, 2002
- Messages
- 4,437
Himalayan Imports Khukuri, 21" Gelbu Special. Blued in the three suns pattern.
Arms & Armor Shifford Viking sword, blued with runic inscription
Kris Cutlery baselard, etch and copper plating detail.
Aftermkt mods is what I do.
Keith
Arms & Armor Shifford Viking sword, blued with runic inscription
Kris Cutlery baselard, etch and copper plating detail.
Aftermkt mods is what I do.
Keith
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2001
- Messages
- 4,611
Hi Aaron,
You may have a hard time with that one because it does not have a removeable blade. Any grinding you do to the handle is going to shoot debris into the pivot and chew up the notoriously thin Spyderco washers.
I basically took the blade off of mine and formed it on a drill press spinning a 4" sanding drum and then contoured the rest and did the finish work by hand.
If you were going to try something I would stuff as muchstuff in behind the open blade as possible then tape it up with cardboard and duct tape to seal it well. This would minimize the amount of crap that would get into the pivot.
Then blow the whole thing out with a compressor or canned air before and after removing the wrapping.
Good luck
You may have a hard time with that one because it does not have a removeable blade. Any grinding you do to the handle is going to shoot debris into the pivot and chew up the notoriously thin Spyderco washers.
I basically took the blade off of mine and formed it on a drill press spinning a 4" sanding drum and then contoured the rest and did the finish work by hand.
If you were going to try something I would stuff as muchstuff in behind the open blade as possible then tape it up with cardboard and duct tape to seal it well. This would minimize the amount of crap that would get into the pivot.
Then blow the whole thing out with a compressor or canned air before and after removing the wrapping.
Good luck
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2001
- Messages
- 4,611
LOL... get in line behind my wife
You'd have to wait until I finished a pair of these Arts & Crafts style chairs for the den we just remodeled, and an island for the kitchen we just remodeled along with a laundry list of end tables, cabinets and lamps....
So it may be a few years before I can take any orders
Glad you like the thread though - I really do have fun customizing knives in my spare time though.
You'd have to wait until I finished a pair of these Arts & Crafts style chairs for the den we just remodeled, and an island for the kitchen we just remodeled along with a laundry list of end tables, cabinets and lamps....
So it may be a few years before I can take any orders
Glad you like the thread though - I really do have fun customizing knives in my spare time though.
- Joined
- Jul 24, 2002
- Messages
- 5,868
Originally posted by cpirtle
LOL... get in line behind my wife
OK, how about alittle instruction on how you did it. Where did you get the material?? How did you cut it to shape?? Did you have to get extended screws?? I have a Socom I am working on refinishing the blade and was going to go with RaySkin Inserts, but I like what you have done ALLOT!!
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2001
- Messages
- 4,611
dammit Ebbtide, I thought you ordered cocobolo!
TBG, I used 1/8" thick ivory Micarta. Carefully peel out the rubber inserts and use them as a pattern. Cut them out with a scroll saw to the rough shape then use files to shape them so they pop into the milled out recess nice and tight. You may be tempted to use a Dremel here but I would stick with the files as they remove a lot less material and will give you a better fit.
Once you have them all shaped chamfer the edges with a file and sand them, I usually start at 100 grit and go to 250 grit - then finish off with a green scotch brite.
Pop the Micarta back into the handle and use the proper drill bit for your tap to drill through the Micarta and the aluminum scale. Pop out the insert and tap the hole. Now bore out the hole in the insert to fit your button head screw and counter sink it. Touch up the Micarta with your green Scotch brite and screw them in place.
Now on the back side of the scale use a dremel or bench grinder to grind the excess length off of the screws so they're flush.
I got the Micarta from a combination of Texas Knife Makers Supply and Koval's - I have a ton of it so I'm not sure which place that particular piece came from.
Also note, 1/8" stock was a good fit for the SOCOM but with the CQD I had to this the Micarta down to a little less than 3/16".
Good luck!!
PS - I would only try using Micarta if you're not familiar with this stuff. G-10 and Carbon Fiber are much harder to work with. All of them are bad to inhale so wear a respirator too
TBG, I used 1/8" thick ivory Micarta. Carefully peel out the rubber inserts and use them as a pattern. Cut them out with a scroll saw to the rough shape then use files to shape them so they pop into the milled out recess nice and tight. You may be tempted to use a Dremel here but I would stick with the files as they remove a lot less material and will give you a better fit.
Once you have them all shaped chamfer the edges with a file and sand them, I usually start at 100 grit and go to 250 grit - then finish off with a green scotch brite.
Pop the Micarta back into the handle and use the proper drill bit for your tap to drill through the Micarta and the aluminum scale. Pop out the insert and tap the hole. Now bore out the hole in the insert to fit your button head screw and counter sink it. Touch up the Micarta with your green Scotch brite and screw them in place.
Now on the back side of the scale use a dremel or bench grinder to grind the excess length off of the screws so they're flush.
I got the Micarta from a combination of Texas Knife Makers Supply and Koval's - I have a ton of it so I'm not sure which place that particular piece came from.
Also note, 1/8" stock was a good fit for the SOCOM but with the CQD I had to this the Micarta down to a little less than 3/16".
Good luck!!
PS - I would only try using Micarta if you're not familiar with this stuff. G-10 and Carbon Fiber are much harder to work with. All of them are bad to inhale so wear a respirator too
Maybe I will just wait until you have your wifes projects caught up and bride you to do it!! - Joined
- Oct 14, 2002
- Messages
- 31
Hello.This has been fun to watch. Great stuff all the way around. Here's a Shark I spiffed up a little. Rich
- Joined
- Sep 23, 2000
- Messages
- 736
I started with a little try (finishing the blade) and ended here:
- Joined
- Jan 25, 2000
- Messages
- 4,492
- Joined
- Jan 25, 2000
- Messages
- 4,492
This one has been a project and a test mule for all kinds of stuff :
Emerson Commander...when I bought it the blade had already been hand rubbed out...I took a bit of extra time to rub it more and clean up a few spots , then I jeweled the liners , made a 3/4 length backspacer out of 6061 Aluminum , and finally yesterday , my bes bud Kyle got his anodizer up and running and we anoodized the scales a spackle type finish of a gold and purple/blue .
What da ya think ??
oh yeah and special thanks to Al for sending down the Skull Clip !
Hard to capture the anodized liners without good lighting.
Emerson Commander...when I bought it the blade had already been hand rubbed out...I took a bit of extra time to rub it more and clean up a few spots , then I jeweled the liners , made a 3/4 length backspacer out of 6061 Aluminum , and finally yesterday , my bes bud Kyle got his anodizer up and running and we anoodized the scales a spackle type finish of a gold and purple/blue .
What da ya think ??
oh yeah and special thanks to Al for sending down the Skull Clip !
Hard to capture the anodized liners without good lighting.