Skookum Bush Tool

[KiljoyKutlery]

I think that the design is great...I can't say "inspired" because its really just a puuko on steroids...but I own a puuko, and I can't think of a camp chore it can't do other than cook and chop firewood. I am obsessed with getting one. Gene

 

[tarmix101]

First congradtulations, Caine on your new knife. It is a beauty and I love the green micarta.

Regarding the guard, it seems like a no-brainer to me to put something between your finger and the blade. Apparently some primitive cultures did not develop that little doodad and the traditionalists in those lands just kept on making them like they used to, i.e. Puukko. To be honest I have no experience with this design and it must be time tested and functional. I observe however that one of the "best" "bush" knives, Fallkniven, provides some barrier between steel and flesh

Well put! :thumbup:

As I mentioned before however the lack of guard really is just a mental thing IMHO. I have never had my hand slip down the blade, and being that the Puukko is much older that most of the designs we use today (as you mentioned) there must be something to it. Not saying that designs that came later wouldn't be better, just that IME the guard-less "bush" knife is well thought out and is as dependable is a knife with a guard in the right hands.

 

[Jim Craig]

I would imagine the handle contours of the SBT keep fingers off the edge.
Even the barrel-shaped handles on the cheap puukkos are enough to keep my hands off the edge. From what I hear, everyone that has tried the SBT is a big fan.

 

[alco141]

i have a couple of moras and i like them a lot, but as far as edge holding these knives are in a whole different class. as pict has demonstrated chopping out large growths of bamboo was not beyond this blade. his experience is similar to mine this blade keeps its edge, the handle is a joy to use, no blisters, no rubs , no hot spots, a very functional and thought out design . as far as gutting big game, you dont stab the carcass after the animal is down, but using drawing cuts you free the hide and innerds from the carcass, i have a far ammount of skinning experience with processing game of any size, have skinned everything from squirrel to cape buffalo and eland, the draw cut is what i used most extensively.

trigger guards dont keep your fingers from covering the muzzle. i think that the draw cut is the most useful way to handle a blade for outdoor activities, it is also the safest, poking the point into something is a recipe for injury or knife damage. be that as it may, the reinforced butt plate of this knife is made to drive this knife into a sapling with a baton and then by moving sideways and slowly moving around the tree making multiple cuts that intersect you can fell a 5-6" tree with just this blade. this is a method that has been demonstrated to friends that have taken a course from mors kochanski and they were amazed as to how fast he was able to drop the tree.

alex

 

[pict]

The SBT is an excellent knife for the bush. Mine is in A2 with black micarta, it is one tough knife.

The lack of a guard is not a problem. The micarta is left rough and there is a swell at the front. The shape of the handle indexes very well in the hand, if you pick it up blade up it feels all wrong. With no guard you can work right at the base of the blade with a great deal of freedom of movement.

This is a bushcraft knife and it reflects a great deal of wilderness experience. It is also extremely well made. The SBT is no lightweight. Anything can be broken of course but with the SBT you would either have to be superhuman or super stupid. They are built like a tank. Someone asked about the butcap, it is TIG welded in place.

The only time I get anal about fingerguards is when handing a knife to a novice or kid. Mac

 

[pitdog]

I've never had the experience of my hand slipping off a handle and onto the blade. The bush tool is basically a puukko with a different handle design. I prefer having the cutting edge as close to the handle as possible on blades like this.

If the handle scares you something like this would be a better choice

EKA W11

And how often do you use a knife in the dark?

Are you saying that if we are in a survival situation we should wait till morning to use our knives !!!!

Being serious I do like the look of the knife very much but must admit that the lack of any form of guard has always worried me slightly with that style of knife !!!

 

[Esav Benyamin]

I observe however that one of the "best" "bush" knives, Fallkniven, provides some barrier between steel and flesh.

I would see a difference between a bush knife and a bushcraft knife. One is a heavy duty tool for getting through backcountry but a bushcraft knife is optimized for survival skills in a more localized setting.

Anyway, look at the Fallkniven H1, their hunting knife, a classic skinner blade, with a handle extremely close to the Skookum.

From the website: "The strong, straight and very handy knife dates its origin from the ancient times of classic art of North-Scandinavian knife-making. Due to this, it lacks a standard fingerguard but still the grip is very safe since the handle is ergonomically shaped and made of tacky Kraton rubber with a textured pattern. With a handle this shape, you should preferably be an experienced hunter or outdoorsman for safely handling such an advanced knife as the H1 Hunting Knife."

 

[pict]

Pitdog,

On a large knife that may be called upon to swing or stab a guard makes sense. The SBT isn't that knife. If you are tackling a big piece of wood with a 4 inch knife you either smack the spine with a baton or baton the butcap in. In both cases the hand isn't going to be forced onto the blade.

Anyway as soon as you pick upthe SBT those worries drift away very quickly, it is very secure in the hand. Mors K has stated that he can't recall anyone getting cut in that manner. It is usually the fingers on the left hand that get cut as I found out with my SBT. Mac

 

[Pritch]

I’m truly sorry if I have violated the gods of bushcraft by asking a question about this knife. I posed a sincere question and had no intention of bashing this knife, its creator, or the proud owner of it.

Some of the responses have been more than a little snide and condescending. Several seem to suggest that anyone who doesn’t instantly divine the inherent superiority of this design is clearly inexperienced, hails from a failed civilization, and is most likely of questionable parentage.

The first thing I thought of when I saw pictures of this knife was that I might slip off and cut myself. The lack of a guard, or a thumb ramp, or other visible means to maintain proper control of the knife in a push was puzzling, but, like I said, several people here who have used them are very impressed with the Skookem, so I wanted their thoughts.

Pict, I was especially waiting for you to reply, as I recall reading of your bamboo adventure. You mentioned the swell in the handle as being helpful in retaining control of the knife. This swell isn’t apparent from the side, but looking at it edge on (Caine’s 2nd picture), it is pretty clear. Thanks.

-- FLIX

 

[pitdog]

Pitdog,

On a large knife that may be called upon to swing or stab a guard makes sense. The SBT isn't that knife. If you are tackling a big piece of wood with a 4 inch knife you either smack the spine with a baton or baton the butcap in. In both cases the hand isn't going to be forced onto the blade.

Anyway as soon as you pick upthe SBT those worries drift away very quickly, it is very secure in the hand. Mors K has stated that he can't recall anyone getting cut in that manner. It is usually the fingers on the left hand that get cut as I found out with my SBT. Mac

Yeah I'm sure your right, never having used one it has always been a thought that has gone through my mind, no doubt once I have handled one my worries would be cast aside !!!

 

[Jim Craig]

I’m truly sorry if I have violated the gods of bushcraft by asking a question about this knife. I posed a sincere question and had no intention of bashing this knife, its creator, or the proud owner of it.

Some of the responses have been more than a little snide and condescending. Several seem to suggest that anyone who doesn’t instantly divine the inherent superiority of this design is clearly inexperienced, hails from a failed civilization, and is most likely of questionable parentage.

Flix,
My snide remark was in response to the comment by another who said "Poor design". I probably shouldn't have made a comment (If you've got nothing nice to say...) but responses like that, given without knowledge or experience, seem to pry that type of thing from me. I didn't actually read your post until I saw your second one.
To answer your question, in my opinion, the SBT looks like it would be an excellent choice for any outdoorsman worth his boots. There are many knife designs out there that are guardless, and have been used for generations. If a guard was needed, it would have been added. I find the guard on many knives gets in the way for detailed work.

 

[ROCK6]

I’m truly sorry if I have violated the gods of bushcraft by asking a question about this knife. I posed a sincere question and had no intention of bashing this knife, its creator, or the proud owner of it.

This is a good question and it does come up often (I think you're safe from the bushcraft gods). I too think knife guards on smaller outdoors knives are more of a mental assurance than necessity, however, it really depends on how you plan to use the knife. I know many of the Scandi knives and even our own Nessmuk-design are with out finger guards and these have been used quite successfully for many years. I don't know the history of the choil, but it provides very similar functions of a guard-less knife; allowing more control, but with less edge as opposed to guard-less knife's edge.

I do know that the scandi/bushcraft designs are also suited to drilling with the point, and you'll note that that many of these types of knives have a butt that allows you to apply pressure by pushing into the wood/bone with palm pressure to the butt vice with the typical saber grip (which would most definately put your fingers at risk).

I have a few scandi and a Nessmuk design that are guardless; all are great wood-working and outdoors knives. It's just one of those designs where you have to try it in order to appreciate it.

BTW, my SBT should be finished up about the time I redeploy...it'll make a nice Christmas present

ROCK6

 

[Myal]

Myal, I tend to agree, but it is nice to have the right kit. Those natives are generally pleased to get good western knives whenever they can. Still, without skill, the knife won't do the job.

I agree , the right kit is great to have . I spent a while living on one of the remoter communities in the Kimberlies , with a schrade fixed blade that was my pride and joy at the time I could do a fair bit with it, but was regularly put to shame by others who would literally pick up a rock and knap out an edge to use for whatever it was , carry it for a while and drop it to make another when it blunted .

Their point of pride was they were not helpless like I was at the time , in that if I lost my knife , I was stuck without a knife , they had plenty ready to be made just about everywhere they went . True , when a good blade came their way it was used and treasured bit there was no grieving or much inconvienience when they lost it / it got stolen or it just plain vaporised ...

I have no problem with people buying or making the "ultimate knife" I reckon its awesome the advances made in steels and the way ancient designs of handle are still among some of the best it does worry me a littel that folk get too wrapped up in kit tho and not skill , if they lose their knife for what ever reason ...

this particular knife seems good is reported on well , tho its not what Id buy , there are plenty of happy owners it seems . How many owners are relying on having their knife to get them thru , but may not have it when needed ? ...

OK , nuff thinking , hed hurts ...

 

[mrostov]

I’m truly sorry if I have violated the gods of bushcraft by asking a question about this knife. I posed a sincere question and had no intention of bashing this knife, its creator, or the proud owner of it................

Some of the responses have been more than a little snide and condescending. Several seem to suggest that anyone who doesn’t instantly divine the inherent superiority of this design is clearly inexperienced, hails from a failed civilization, and is most likely of questionable parentage.

Had similar responses when I posted on a predominantly European bushcraft site. It seems that one or two 'gurus' wrote a book a few years ago and created a quasi-religion. There also seems to be something of a prejudice in many circles over something that looks too 'American', too 'cowboy', or too 'Jeremiah Johnson'. Which is funny since it was these types of people that wrote the real 'book' on how it was actually done when it was for real, and the penalty for failure was usually a lonely, brutal death.

If you notice what the American frontiersmen used, the designs often look a tad different, and for various good reasons - they were used by a highly adaptive people who crossed and conquered a real frontier.

Some of these guardless, pointy designs touted as the 'ultimate survival knife' seem to be worshiped by those who think 'bushcraft' is one giant wood carving session, but have killed game animals of any real size animals only infrequently, if ever. Yet, I've even seen some people who seem to smugly hold the opinion that you really don't 'know what you're doing' unless your knife has not even a finger guard.

Fresh blood is about as slippery as motor oil. I tell people to do this: Go buy a whole, raw chicken, cover it liberally with olive oil, then, with olive oil all over your hands, take your 'bushcraft' knife and skin it, then butcher it. That's only a small animal that's already been gutted and cleaned. Yeah, in a pinch, you might get it done just fine with that 'bushcraft' knife, especially if you work slow enough and are careful. However, do it on a regular basis for weeks or months under much more rugged conditions on animals that are not pre-cleaned from the supermarket and those espousing those types of knives will be singing a different tune.

Real 'bushcraft' is about sustainable living in the bush, and without the support of some form of agriculture, you simply don't do that without regularly killing and disassembling animals for food and useful materials.

*******************

 

[Ravaillac]

I bet Mors is crushed.

Was just wondering: has Kochanski actually been involved in the making of this knife (hyp1), or is it just the maker who decided: "hey, let's make a knife as the one described in Kochanski's book" (hyp2)?

Kochanski was apparently involved (hyp1) since he is always cited when this knife is mentionned, but on the other hand (hyp2) formulation is always a bit dodgy: "inspired by Kochanski", "description from his book"... and if I had a knife really endorsed by Kochanski, I think I would advertise it even more.

Apart from that, looks like a sound design to me. I think the buttplate serves no purpose, a simple protruding tang would probably be better.

 

[mrostov]

Mors Kochanski's book is mostly about wood carving, wood chopping, and wood cutting. About +90% of all detail in the book is devoted to it. I know, I've read it, and I have it right here next to my desk. That book shouldn't be titled 'Bushcraft', but 'Wood Carving in the Boreal Forest'.

Ever tried eating a steak made out of wood? Ever tried making jerky out of wood? While Kochanshi's book focuses on playing with your knife with the local wood supply, to live in the bush and survive it for real in the long term, a huge amount of your time is spent getting food - THAT is 90% of 'bushcraft'.

People act like Kochanski invented 'bushcraft' - aka 'woodlore', 'aka 'buckskinning', etc.

 

[Esav Benyamin]

If you notice what the American frontiersmen used, the designs often look a tad different, and for various good reasons - they were used by a highly adaptive people who crossed and conquered a real frontier.

Some of these guardless, pointy designs touted as the 'ultimate survival knife' seem to be worshiped by those who think 'bushcraft' is one giant wood carving session, but have killed game animals of any real size animals only infrequently, if ever.

Real 'bushcraft' is about sustainable living in the bush, and without the support of some form of agriculture, you simply don't do that without regularly killing and disassembling animals for food and useful materials.

Almost true.

Part of the misunderstandings here lie in the definition of the activity for which the bushcraft knife was designed.

Bushcraft, in the sense the British followers of Ray Mears are discussing it, is not about going off in the wilds and living off the land. It is a much more limited activity and their knife was built around that.

On the other hand, if your intention is to pack into the back country hunting or on a rescue mission, sure, you might want a differrent knife, and you probably won't be looking to Ray Mears for advice. But that doesn't invalidate his original vision about a different sort of woodland activity.

(By the way, what would you suggest the Scandinavians use in taking apart large game animals, in place of their guardless knives?)

 

[Jim Craig]

Some of these guardless designs seem to be worshiped by those who think 'bushcraft' is one giant wood carving session, but have killed game animals of any real size animals only infrequently, if ever.

Fresh blood is about as slippery as motor oil. I tell people to do this: Go buy a whole, raw chicken, cover it liberally with olive oil, then, with olive oil all over your hands, take your 'bushcraft' knife and skin it, then butcher it. That's only a small animal that's already been gutted and cleaned.

Real 'bushcraft' is about sustainable living in the bush, and without the support of some form of agriculture, you simply don't do that without regularly killing animals for food.

I would have thought reindeer would qualify as large game. In fact, I am fairly sure the whole Scandi type knife styles such as the puukko, leuku, etc, were created specifically for working wood and skinning & butchering large game. Oh, and cleaning fish.

How regular is regularly? (for me twice a day, after coffee)
Dick Proenneke lived off one sheep (as far as large game is concerned) for a whole winter in Alaska.
Processing large game is only a small part of a bushcraft knife's work.

I have skinned out a number of caribou & moose, and helped with a bear years back, and skinning is not all that bloody. In fact, I often wear lightweight, cheap, cotton knit gloves to make sure no gasoline traces on my hands taint the meat, and they only get an odd spattering of blood on them.
Butchering wild animals is bloodier, but its not like lathering up in olive oil.

I realy don't believe anyone is worshiping anything. It's just using what works best.
I am not saying it's wrong to have a guard, but it is by no means a requirement.
As Pict mentioned, a guard may be a good idea for children, or people who are not that experienced using knives.

I rarely ask modern hunters what they think is the best type of knife for them. Not that many are knife enthusiasts, and think that the Buck or Gerber they picked up at Wally World for $50 is the greatest thing in the world because that is what the bought and it worked. Nothing against those knives, I just find that some others perform better.

 

[Ravaillac]

Had similar responses when I posted on a predominantly European bushcraft site. It seems that one or two 'gurus' wrote a book a few years ago and created a quasi-religion. There also seems to be something of a prejudice in many circles over something that looks too 'American', too 'cowboy', or too 'Jeremiah Johnson'. Which is funny since it was these types of people that wrote the real 'book' on how it was actually done when it was for real, and the penalty for failure was usually a lonely, brutal death.

I guess the guru part is kind of true to some point... That said it may also be interpreted as an over reaction to "fancy knives amateurs" calling mora type knives junk while those are perfectly capable.

But despite that and sticking to the subject of the guard

You may notice that:
* most period skinners don't have a guard
* Nessmuck (another "survival/outdoor" guru by the way)'s knives didn't have any guard at all
* many other period designs didn't have a guard
* most people I know used to slash chicken with a small office knife that doesn't need a guard
* traditionnal outdoor knives from various countries don't have a guard (puuko, saami knives, most knives seen in african tribes...)
* One may also not that guard does exist on scandinavian knives,... but it only appears on "children knives"

As for functionnality, I guess the only role where guard is mandatory is for stabbing, which would be used for "combat" (military) designs and finishing wounded game, but finishing large game is IMO too risky in a genuine survival situation, with or without a guard: most hunter only doo it with a herd of train dogs and that's still pretty hazardous.

Actually I've often wondered about the historical accurracy of many "period designs" and their uses. As an example, even if it is pretty well established that "bowie knife" type was popular among confederate soldier, wasn't it carried as fighting knife rather than an utility knife (many are quoted having a D guard which does really get in the way...), guess that would be a subject for the Bernard Levine forum.

 

[mrostov]

Almost true.

'Almost'? FYI, the last time I saw a real Scandinavian take apart a caribou, do you know what he used???

He used a Fallkniven Thor, which has a 10" bowie style blade and a full handguard.

Many of those 'bushcraft' practitioners in their crowded, little European countries, by an large, don't practice really living off the land. They go out and have themselves a smoke filled arts and crafts session. Some are quite good at it, but lets call it what it is.