Smoke Jumper

sassafrassdogs3 said:
I don't think I know anyone personally that knows the definition of that word. I can guess though...Mainly just having fun, too hot to go outside 94 @ 10a...
Click to expand...

I know the definition :D and without words like that the content of these forums would be eviscerated, too.
 
Got a pair yesterday. Love the red handles and excited to have these in CPM154.
Bit of blade play in all directions, and I hope someday there is an adjustable pivot in these things, but not a dealbreaker by any means.
But, yeah, whats up with the "rust" in the nail nick?
 
see this pic of a 110 in cpm154 with copper in nail nick...... blow the pic up and take a close look at the nail nick.....

cpm154copper.jpg

my red one is very similar....its not rust...some sort of copper residue. I was gonna try to scrape it tonight when I have more time. I'll update if I make any progress.


I believe its harmless and leftover from the manufacturing process. it is not rust. that I am sure of.......

edit part......I tried to scrape it off....no go. I didn't try polishing it away but I expect that would work with the right abrasive etc.
 
Last edited:
Xr6x said:
It might :rolleyes: after reading Jeffs explanation I will be removing the hump on mine only cause I don't care for it and it's an easy fix ;) very nice Knife even with the hump :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

At first I thought the reason for not grinding the hump off rhymed with "hazy", if you know what I mean.

But your side by side photo shows how it's a combination of things at work. I know with a very high degree of certainty that the 110 blades and lock bar are both blanked with that hump in them for the reason stated earlier. The early Bucklites like the one on the left in your picture are clearly ground on the spine. The texture left on the handle matches both the blade spine and the lock bar, and you can clearly see where the grinding stops as it curves over the front of the knife.

The new 110LT has that cute groove molded in it representing the front bolster and it wraps over the spine to the lock bar. If they grind the spine which removes the humps and finishes everything flush, they will remove that groove.

So, had they not included that little groove they probably could/would have ground the spine to remove the hump.

Your photo again:
IMG_2745.JPG

The hump doesn't really bother me for anything more than aesthetics. It might even provide a bit of traction on the spine. If I'm going to file it off of mine, I'll probably open the blade partially then file it and check it with the blade over and over until they fit flush with the blade open.

The only problem with this is that you might create another problem to work out. Where the hump was will now have a different finish than the rest of the lock bar. Do you try to polish the whole thing to match, or just leave that little mismatched finish issue?

I think I might leave it.
 
MT_Pokt said:
At first I thought the reason for not grinding the hump off rhymed with "hazy", if you know what I mean.

But your side by side photo shows how it's a combination of things at work. I know with a very high degree of certainty that the 110 blades and lock bar are both blanked with that hump in them for the reason stated earlier. The early Bucklites like the one on the left in your picture are clearly ground on the spine. The texture left on the handle matches both the blade spine and the lock bar, and you can clearly see where the grinding stops as it curves over the front of the knife.

The new 110LT has that cute groove molded in it representing the front bolster and it wraps over the spine to the lock bar. If they grind the spine which removes the humps and finishes everything flush, they will remove that groove.

So, had they not included that little groove they probably could/would have ground the spine to remove the hump.

Your photo again:
View attachment 925415

The hump doesn't really bother me for anything more than aesthetics. It might even provide a bit of traction on the spine. If I'm going to file it off of mine, I'll probably open the blade partially then file it and check it with the blade over and over until they fit flush with the blade open.

The only problem with this is that you might create another problem to work out. Where the hump was will now have a different finish than the rest of the lock bar. Do you try to polish the whole thing to match, or just leave that little mismatched finish issue?

I think I might leave it.
Click to expand...
Opening the blade half way is the way to go. The hump is just a cosmetic flaw and no way will hamper the way the knife performs. I think it's just one less step to keep costs down and that's fine by me ;) I took the hump off mine :D
IMG_2746.JPG IMG_2749.JPG IMG_2750.JPG
 
Last edited:
Coyja said:
Got a pair yesterday. Love the red handles and excited to have these in CPM154.
Bit of blade play in all directions, and I hope someday there is an adjustable pivot in these things, but not a dealbreaker by any means.
But, yeah, whats up with the "rust" in the nail nick?
Click to expand...
It's not rust :) it might be a heat treat stain and the stones in the stone wash process just can't get in there . Maybe?:D
 
WOW!! Really KOOL knife!!

Now.. Do yinz feel that the sheath is a "Attention Getter" ??? As in wrong attention.. Just wandering!!! :D John
 
Just got mine today. I don't know who sharpened it, but it was either a few minutes before it was time to get off, or it was the first time they'd used a belt grinder. My edge doesn't look nearly as nice as some of yours. There's a very high bevel, particularly near the kick. And the tip was so off that it was actually chisel ground. The edge actually curved to one side. I was about to be upset, but then I realized I paid less than $40 for the thing. So, an hour or so later, and the tip is fixed, and likely better than factory since it's a little bit thicker now. The edge was already pretty sharp, but a bit of stropping made it even sharper.

I'm definitely a fan of how light it is, while still feeling solid. There's just a little bit of vertical and horizontal blade play, but nothing I'll notice in use. I find the handle shape and material is a great compromise among the older Bucklites. It has the rounded, more comfortable shape of the models from the mid-90's, but feels more stout, like the older Bucklites from the 80's.

I'm tempted to pick up another one of these, with the hope that I won't have to put any work into the edge, or I might get one of the drop point models. Then I'll just have to pick up one of the 112 LT's when they come out.

It never ends, does it?
 
Got mine today, sweet, razor sharp and like the black LT, the back spring is like a freakin' bear trap.

The slightest bit of blade wiggle, not enough to make me care, just noticeable because the black L has none.

May have to use another sheath, cause WOW, this red/black one is a bit out there for me. :)
 
Got mine today. I like it!
The Nub/Nubs thing doesn't bother me.
Been carry a black one now more than I've carried a 110 in some time
Looking forward to using this steel.
You can't tell by the photo but my nail has the copper color too

ATl19Na.jpg

VPK2WUC.jpg

rdmKd08.jpg
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top