Snakes are great...Finn Wolf, not so much...

stabman

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I figured if I'll eat Subway despite Jared being a pedophile, I could buy a Cold Steel Finn Wolf despite the antics of the owner.

So, I decided I would practice making some notches, but that required harvesting a good stick.

The best part of it all was running into a woman from Nunavut that was carrying a baby garter snake. :)

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When I got home, I made the practice notches:

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However, the edge chipped and rolled...here's some crappy cellphone pics:

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The Spyderco that came out with the Scandi grind also had issues, hence them adding a microbevel.
I think Cold Steel is going to have to do the same thing, as there's no way it should do this from light wood work.

I fixed it up (pretty much...one of the chips is still visible), and will use it, but I'm definitely NOT enamored of the Scandi grind right now. :thumbdn:
 
One reason I have not pulled the trigger on a true zero scandi, or any scandi for that matter.

My spyderco delica has done this too on the lightest cutting. It did it for several cycles of micro chipping and sharpening. Not that big of chips, though.
 
One reason I have not pulled the trigger on a true zero scandi, or any scandi for that matter.

My spyderco delica has done this too on the lightest cutting. It did it for several cycles of micro chipping and sharpening. Not that big of chips, though.

I think I'll stick with standard grinds from now on.
 
If the chipping problem went away after a few sharpenings [maintaining the same edge shape] then there was damage from grinding !!!
 
If the chipping problem went away after a few sharpenings [maintaining the same edge shape] then there was damage from grinding !!!

Many production knives have some issue with that.

I haven't had one get this much edge damage from that level of use before though.
I guess the lack of a secondary bevel makes the edge more prone to that sort of thing when the grinding affects the steel.
 
I think I'll stick with standard grinds from now on.

That is some serious edge damage from what appears to be pretty easy work.

Have you ever used a Mora? I have heard some say they're not a true scandi grind... But mine is (maybe I sharpened past/through the microbevel before i thought to check?). Either way, it carves like gangbusters now. So maybe don't give up on the grind quite yet.
 
I will say that the knife is okay overall, although the handle is too small for with gloves.
I also don't like having to remove the thumb studs to sharpen up near the handle...that seems like a design flaw.

If they add a secondary bevel to get rid of the chipping problem--which others have noted as well--it could be an alright, inexpensive folding bushcraft knife.
And fix the thum-stud issue!
 
That is some serious edge damage from what appears to be pretty easy work.

Have you ever used a Mora? I have heard some say they're not a true scandi grind... But mine is (maybe I sharpened past/through the microbevel before i thought to check?). Either way, it carves like gangbusters now. So maybe don't give up on the grind quite yet.

I'll see how it works now that the damage is sharpened out.
The factory edge was really sharp, I'll give it that.
Shaved hair and sliced through paper like a lightsaber.

And at least it was pretty inexpensive...and if not for wanting to test it, I wouldn't have met that woman from Nunavut, or held a baby garter snake.
I never met anyone from Nunavut before. :)
 
I have a Finn Wolff but have not had a chance to test it out. The reports of the edge being too thin are concerning. Hopefully a few sharpenings will remedy the problem.
 
Carrying two knives, one with a very thin grind for food, push cutting through cheese and the like and the other with some steel behind the edge for everything else makes sense and, in some cases, is a good excuse to get an additional knife.:rolleyes:
 
The Spyderco that came out with the Scandi grind also had issues, hence them adding a microbevel.

The Spyderco that "came out with the Scandi grind" was made from S30V, if I remember correctly, a steel widely known to chip easily when ground too thin. It was a poor choice of steel for the knife's intent.

I think I'll stick with standard grinds from now on.

Scandi ginds work fine, like any other grind, when done properly.

A knife with a crazy thin edge made from thin stock that is expected to be durable must be made from good steel. Try a properly made Scandi, made from top shelf steel and enjoy being able to carve all day long and never chip, roll or really even dull your edge. I've got a Scandi ground Bushcrafter in 3V and it's wonderful to use, a real carving machine that I can use all day long without edge damage or any discomfort whatsoever.
 
That is some serious edge damage from what appears to be pretty easy work.

Have you ever used a Mora? I have heard some say they're not a true scandi grind... But mine is (maybe I sharpened past/through the microbevel before i thought to check?). Either way, it carves like gangbusters now. So maybe don't give up on the grind quite yet.

Those who claim Moras aren't scandi grinds don't know what they're talking about, to be blunt about it. :) Scandi grinds are a misnomer anyhow, as the grind isn't exclusive to Scandinavia and not all Scandinavian knives use such a grind. If anything they should be called a Mora grind because they were the knives that largely popularized the style in the modern industry. And yes, all of Moras sporting knives have a microbevel on them. A true microbevel is barely able to be detected under close scrutiny in bright light. A lot of knives that get called scandis are really just conventional saber grinds because the secondary bevel is large enough to be readily seen. A scandi can be run at true zero or with a microbevel. Microbevels are traditional, and so "kicking them out of the club" because of a knife having one is a bit silly.

From what I hear, the Finn Wolf's first run had edge rolling/chipping issues but was fixed in later runs. It makes me wonder if your example is from the first run, or if the problems just haven't really been fixed.
 
The Spyderco that "came out with the Scandi grind" was made from S30V, if I remember correctly, a steel widely known to chip easily when ground too thin. It was a poor choice of steel for the knife's intent.



Scandi ginds work fine, like any other grind, when done properly.

A knife with a crazy thin edge made from thin stock that is expected to be durable must be made from good steel. Try a properly made Scandi, made from top shelf steel and enjoy being able to carve all day long and never chip, roll or really even dull your edge. I've got a Scandi ground Bushcrafter in 3V and it's wonderful to use, a real carving machine that I can use all day long without edge damage or any discomfort whatsoever.

You don't even need a super steel. My Scandi blades are SK5 carbon steel and 12c27. Both will go a long time working over wood. Steel is important though. I have a great looking Puukko in 80crv2 and it gets by in soft wood but is a turd in hard wood. All kinds of chips and rolls after 30 minites of working hard woods.

I'd never buy a Scandi ground blade in AUS8 no matter what the makers advertisements said.

They should have known better, just didn't care or don't expect anyone to actually use it. Probably the later.
 
The scandi grind only works well with the right steel, namely high-carbon. There's a reason puukka knives are traditionally made with laminated carbon steel. I wouldn't get a scandi blade in stainless.
 
Y'all like snakes i got plenty of cotton mouths, eastern diamondbacks and pygmy rattlers your friend can come and take back up north. I havent put my finn wolf through the paces yet. I have sliced plenty of cardboard and boxes and such and its been good for that......so for city folks without swamps and wilderness it will work.:)
 
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