Snakes are great...Finn Wolf, not so much...

lonestar1979 said:
This steel aus8 from Cold Steel is excellent performer, never had problems with it, the problem with this knife could be the zero grind, maybe the knife needed secondary edge at higher angle, and then shouldn't chip.I dislike scandi grinds anyways, and regrind all my scandisk to convex edge or full convex depends in thickness.At higher angle there shouldn't be any problems for sure.
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That's what I'm thinking.
Spyderco's zero grind Scandi chipped all to hell, and I've never had any chipping issues with their other S30V blades.
Once they stuck a secondary bevel on it, no one seemed to have any more problems.

Does anyone have a confirmed second production run Finn Wolf to be able to say what the fix was?
Did they just add a secondary bevel to fix the issue?
 
I'm still wondering what the grind angle is. Mora uses 11.5° per side with a microbevel for most of their knives. Condor Bushlores, as an example, have a 9° per side primary grind which is why I usually don't recommend for folks to run them at true zero, as they're a bit delicate at that low of an angle with their steel/heat treatment. So I'm wondering how low they went with the grind with the Finn Wolf.
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
I'm still wondering what the grind angle is. Mora uses 11.5° per side with a microbevel for most of their knives. Condor Bushlores, as an example, have a 9° per side primary grind which is why I usually don't recommend for folks to run them at true zero, as they're a bit delicate at that low of an angle with their steel/heat treatment. So I'm wondering how low they went with the grind with the Finn Wolf.
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Maybe this should be asked in the Cold Steel forum?

Good to know about the bushlores being ground so thin. I had no idea. The one I had was quite obtuse, but it appears they've maybe over-corrected for that :).
 
I tore apart a matress with my carbon Mora (lots of metal on metal contact) and while it chipped, it was much less severe than that Cold Steel, and all the chips were gone with about 6 minutes on a fine ark stone. There is nothing wrong with the scandi grind, and nothing wrong with thin bevels. There is something wrong with that knife IMHO.
 
stabman said:
I haven't noticed a decline either.
I haven't bought many of them due to the higher street price, but when I check them out at the store, they still seem good.

I'm thinking of getting this knife when cash rolls in:
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Why oh why did they use 01 for it?! I like what they do with 01 on their fixed blades, but on the folder...the bummerlife.

interesting locking system to say the least.
 
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B34NS said:
Why oh why did they use 01 for it?! I like what they do with 01 on their fixed blades, but on the folder...the bummerlife.

interesting locking system to say the least.
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I'll just to oil it sometimes. :)
We'll see what it can do when it gets here. :thumbup:
(the money gods smiled upon me for National Knife Day)
 
stabman said:
I'll just to oil it sometimes. :)
We'll see what it can do when it gets here. :thumbup:
(the money gods smiled upon me for National Knife Day)
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If it rusts enough I guess it could be "virtually" a fixed blade :D
 
B34NS said:
If it rusts enough I guess it could be "virtually" a fixed blade :D
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That's the spirit. :)

But my Northwoods Burnside Jack in 1095 hasn't rusted to fixed blade status yet ;)
O1 does seem more rustomatic in nature, but I think I can handle it.

Besides, at least I won't have to worry about the guy from the patina thread looting it when the apocalypse comes (if you can figure out who I'm talking about right away, you also have had too much time on your hands the last couple of days :D).
 
Gotta love patina on a knife; this one's still like new:

252916-Old-rusty-knife-Stock-Photo.jpg















;):D
 
stabman said:
That's what I'm thinking.
Spyderco's zero grind Scandi chipped all to hell, and I've never had any chipping issues with their other S30V blades.
Once they stuck a secondary bevel on it, no one seemed to have any more problems.

Does anyone have a confirmed second production run Finn Wolf to be able to say what the fix was?
Did they just add a secondary bevel to fix the issue?
Click to expand...

I had the same issue with the scandi on the Spyderco Nilakka.
 
I know that people have used them for a long time. I know people with more experience than me like them. But I see no advantage to a pure scandi grind.

Supposed pros:

Easier to sharpen: more difficult, due to more contact between blade and stone. Definitely not easier in the field, as they say.

Better for carving: extremely acute final edge lends itself to chipping and rolling, and doesn't give much benefit over a normal thin secondary bevel.

More full thickness blade for more strength: I can't see this making much of a difference. Blades don't usually break in the middle of the blade even with a ffg. And for my uses, including in the woods, it's not worth the much worse blade geometry.

Slap a microbevel on it, as I prefer to do with Moras, and it'll be better.
 
stabman said:
That's the spirit. :)

But my Northwoods Burnside Jack in 1095 hasn't rusted to fixed blade status yet ;)
O1 does seem more rustomatic in nature, but I think I can handle it.

Besides, at least I won't have to worry about the guy from the patina thread looting it when the apocalypse comes (if you can figure out who I'm talking about right away, you also have had too much time on your hands the last couple of days :D).
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I'm the same way, I've enjoyed BHK's 01 fixed pieces for some years now with a similar regimen.

Haha I lost interest once people started debating carbon vs stainless in culinary use, although I'm curious now! There were wall jumping ninjas over in some other one earlier, too good. :D
 
stabman said:
That's what I'm thinking.
Spyderco's zero grind Scandi chipped all to hell, and I've never had any chipping issues with their other S30V blades.
Once they stuck a secondary bevel on it, no one seemed to have any more problems.

Does anyone have a confirmed second production run Finn Wolf to be able to say what the fix was?
Did they just add a secondary bevel to fix the issue?
Click to expand...

Mine is a second run. Its a scandi grind, but not hollow like the first batch. I have had it for weeks now and its been sitting in a desk. I am determined to get out and cut some stuff with it this weekend. I will let y'all know how it goes.

Hopefully its as good as my Moras. I have chipped a Mora before, but usually only when I hit something like bone or metal. Just carving wood and normal cutting tasks have never phased one of my Moras before.
 
FortyTwoBlades said:
I'm still wondering what the grind angle is. Mora uses 11.5° per side with a microbevel for most of their knives. Condor Bushlores, as an example, have a 9° per side primary grind which is why I usually don't recommend for folks to run them at true zero, as they're a bit delicate at that low of an angle with their steel/heat treatment. So I'm wondering how low they went with the grind with the Finn Wolf.
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Would throw one on my laser goniometer if I had the knife, but measuring the pixels on a photo and comparing to specs (3.5" blade, 3mm thick) it seems the grind is about 8 degrees per side.

the steel snobbery really has almost nothing to do with it. these things are iron alloys, and all iron alloys have a limit for deformation. straight razors are ridiculously delicate, and that is because of the grind, it doesn't matter what the steel is. you can't baton through a car with one - and the entire point of a secondary or microbevel is to increase edge strength because of plastic/elastic limits. there's a reason the traditional blades have grinds 30-50% more obtuse than this, it's so they are usable - because any steel will fail if taken low enough. funnily enough, most utility/sporting knives that cut decently will also have edge bevels near 10-12 degrees. that would be quite a coincidence, if it was a coincidence - and not tool makers merely working within the limits of their input materials.
 
ALLHSS said:
I know that people have used them for a long time. I know people with more experience than me like them. But I see no advantage to a pure scandi grind.

Supposed pros:

Easier to sharpen: more difficult, due to more contact between blade and stone. Definitely not easier in the field, as they say.

Better for carving: extremely acute final edge lends itself to chipping and rolling, and doesn't give much benefit over a normal thin secondary bevel.

More full thickness blade for more strength: I can't see this making much of a difference. Blades don't usually break in the middle of the blade even with a ffg. And for my uses, including in the woods, it's not worth the much worse blade geometry.

Slap a microbevel on it, as I prefer to do with Moras, and it'll be better.
Click to expand...

Addressing the third point, it gives a blade of a given edge angle greater resistance to chipping or rolling when the blade is torqued to break from a cut, allowing for a slightly lower edge angle than would otherwise be able to resist the side-loading with a primary grind on it. Also it yields high tip strength, but a variable grind will produce the same results.

hardheart said:
Would throw one on my laser goniometer if I had the knife, but measuring the pixels on a photo and comparing to specs (3.5" blade, 3mm thick) it seems the grind is about 8 degrees per side.

the steel snobbery really has almost nothing to do with it. these things are iron alloys, and all iron alloys have a limit for deformation. straight razors are ridiculously delicate, and that is because of the grind, it doesn't matter what the steel is. you can't baton through a car with one - and the entire point of a secondary or microbevel is to increase edge strength because of plastic/elastic limits. there's a reason the traditional blades have grinds 30-50% more obtuse than this, it's so they are usable - because any steel will fail if taken low enough. funnily enough, most utility/sporting knives that cut decently will also have edge bevels near 10-12 degrees. that would be quite a coincidence, if it was a coincidence - and not tool makers merely working within the limits of their input materials.
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^Absolutely this. :) :thumbup:
 
It's hollow grind version? They've made only small run of Finn Wolf with hollow grind scandi. Now they are making flat scandi grind in that knife.
 
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