Some tips and thoughts on folder sheaths

Thanks Mitch, thought I'd toss them into one thread
I'll add more when I do my next vertical sheath, as I've
had questions regarding how the belt loop is fashioned and
how the stitching is done, it's all one piece of leather, so it's
like origami of sorts ;)
G2
 
Here is a janky version similar to what you have shown. I made a regular belt pouch for a SAK Farmer the other day and decided to make up a pocket sheath for this 2 layer Farmer and firesteel. Cutting out the little notch was a great tip. I didn't do that on the first one but after seeing this thread I tried it out.

I originally though about making this a horizontal carry but in the summer I wear a lot of shorts without belts...so a pocket sheath works well for me.

Got abunch of folders that need sheathes....so I'll have plenty more experimenting to do.

IMG_5940.jpg


IMG_5941.jpg


IMG_5942.jpg
 
Looking good there, I'd recommend stitching around the bottom of the
knife as well, even with glue, repeated inserting the knife may work it
lose, so stitching will help keep that a very snug fit.
those SAK's are handy knives eh? I've an electrician that I carry every day
good cutter they are!
G2
 
Absolutely beautiful work! And I've been able to absorb a lot of new ideas. I do have one question, if you don't mind....
Why do you use the stitching awl instead of double needle stitching for your work? Is there an advantage of one over the other, other than speed?

Thanks again for the step-by-step instructions!
 
stitchawl said:
... I do have one question, if you don't mind....
Why do you use the stitching awl instead of double needle stitching for your work? Is there an advantage of one over the other, other than speed?...
Click to expand...

thanks stitchawl, can't access bladeforums from work so had to wait until I
arrived home, web marshal and all that stuff.

as to the stitching awl to me it just fits the way I sew, never got the hang
of doing two needles, so that's what I've been using since late 80's
G2
 
Hey leather guy, VERY impressive work !!! Pretty good macrophotography too ... I'm thinking of making some (crude by your standards) bowie sheaths, & a pistol flap holster for myself, Thought what I'd do, Is locate some cowhide, Pattern & cut them out, Then have them sewn, & have the snaps installed by my shoe repair man, Where can I get some cowhide, & what grade should I look for ??? Thanks in advance ...
 
Thanks, as for the leather, in the first post, just beneath the Mad Cow photo is a link
to the folks I go to for my leather, excellent stuff. Depending on where you live you may
find something a bit closer.
As to grade, I just get the second grade and shoulder hides
for your needs, a bowie sheath, I'd go 8/9 oz leather or 10 oz even, on the holster I'd
say 7/8 oz but, I've not the experience that others have for that type of work and maybe
they will chime on regarding weight for a holster.
And just take your time, think it through and you'll do fine.
G2
 
Gary

I really like your work, and I'm planning on making a sheath for my buck 112 out of 5-6 oz leather. how would suggest I make the belt loop on a fold over sheath like the one you made in your photos? (vertical sheath) any help would be much appreciated.

Mike
 
Thanks Ricky and Mike;
And Mike, as to the belt loop, I was going to add that to this how to but haven't
gotten time to take some work in progress pictures yet, in the mean time here
are some shots of a 110 sheath I made a while back;

Basically one piece of leather, wrapped snugly around the knife for good retention
and then the belt loop is folded down tightly against the back and stitched along
the bottom, this allows you to tilt or raise the sheath when you go to sit down or
draw the knife.

I form, dry, dye, emboss, glue, make the holes for the stitching, stitch down the side
until I reach the corner, then I pull the thread BACK through the top so now both threads
are on the same side
Then I glue the belt loop down agains the back of the sheath, nice and snug so there isn't
too much play, this will keep the knife closer to you.
Once it's glued in place, I use the make shift awl and hammer through the holes to get
through this extra layer of leather.
I use the awl to enlarge the first hole so I can get the one piece of thread back through
to the other side.
And also enlarge the two next to the last holes so I can back stitch two places to lock
down the thread and continue sewing around the end.

110side.jpg


110back.jpg


buck110sheath2.jpg


Good luck on your project, 5/6 should be ok, 6/7 would be my preferred weight for this style sheath.
G2
 
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thank you for those photos, they helped enlighten me on the loop. After wet forming the leather do you use some type of warm wax or after the forming does the leather become stiffer. as the leather I have is very supple.

Thank you Mike
 
The bit thicker leather helps in it's stiffness, but the main cause is that you
are stretching the leather, which takes the GIVE out of it, this will help promote
the stiffness when finished. I do put in some tragacanth which smooths the
inside and also can give some stiffness to the leather.

Also, the leather you use, it needs to be unfinished type of leather, if it has already
been conditioned, like latigo stuff, you will never get it to harden very well.

G2
 
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Gary, you have really inspired me to get into the leather arts!!! Thanks for the great pics and super descriptions!
I am going to post up a thread here in a minute.
 
takao, you're welcome and Farnsrocket always good to hear of another
person bending/cutting the leather, looking forward to seeing your thread
and your work!
G2
 
Gary, absolutely fantastic tutorial! You make the sheath making look like childs play! To which I will attest it's not. I learn something every sheath I make but, I think I learned more in a few minutes of reading this than I have in the last 10 sheaths I have made.
Thanks for sharing the info! :thumbup:
 
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