Sorry for all the posts but I can't find "The knife"

The Condor Moonshiner is a cool knife and a chopper. Certainly not a typical EDC. They run under $100. Just fun to have a few big ones.
 
Conner Michaux said:
I really want knives with great edge retention because I SUCK at sharpening, the few knives ive I have sharpened have muti micro bevels.
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Well, if you aren’t good at sharpening, then getting a knife with excellent edge retention means it will be a major pain in the rear when it does finally dull. Unless of course you take it to someone to have them sharpen it for you.
I suggest learning to sharpen on a softer steel before upgrading.
 
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Good advice. If you like knives, it's paramount that you learn to sharpen a knife. Starting with softer steels is a good way to approach this.
 
Sheaths can be made, and blades can be reprofiled.
Save up and get a jig system. Plenty out there, nothing wrong with using tools to get a job done.
 
In my opinion there is no such thing as "The knife". There are always some little quirks that make it just not right. I, for instance, mostly have SAK's and all of them are good, but not 100% what I would want.

In your case I would determin which blade steel, handle material, geometrie and lock type I'd like and go from there. Say you go for a axis lock, then your focus would be on Benchmade.

Good luck!
 
I have a 400 grit wet stone, I have done a decent job sharpening a cutco kitchen knife. I got it to be pretty dang sharp, but I have only done that good on that knife.
 
Conner Michaux said:
I have a 400 grit wet stone, I have done a decent job sharpening a cutco kitchen knife. I got it to be pretty dang sharp, but I have only done that good on that knife.
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Just fwiw; while learning to sharpen is a good skill to hone, be it waterstones, or diamond for more wear resistant high end steels, there is nothing wrong with sending/taking a knife (especially an expensive one) to a reputable professional to sharpen for you. No different theoretically as hiring a roofer,or an electrician, or a mechanic to do a job you aren't comfortable doing yourself...
 
vector12 said:
I started to buy used(some knifes still come NEW, lol) on the exchange.

My 2 favs have been a Manix2 in s110v for under $100 and a NIB LT wright Genesis A2 full flat just over $100 (WOW!!!!!!!! Knife)
The Manix cuts OK but it's a little thick for me behind the edge, but I'm not set up yet to re-profile :) The Garberg out cuts it on sturdy cardboard(Fixed blade, and thinner steel) I have a Mora Bushcraft Black(yawn), but I really like the Garberg. I haven't even seen a carbon Garberg yet.

I've been looking for the right Benchmade 940 too(I've never owned one).

I've also been WAY impressed with the Mora Garberg, can get 2 SS for $100
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The manix 2 is one I've been wanting to get.
 
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Any of the different types of SAK Pioneer and a Spyderco Sharpmaker. You may well never need anything else.
 
I think about sharpening in two steps; 1) setting the primary bevel, and 2) being able to do a quick touch-up on something simple like a Spyderco Sharpmaker. That really means setting an angle that that can be touched up as a micro bevel. When everyone says that you are sharpening on a Sharpmaker and it is working that really means that the knife is sharpened to something less than 20dps so you are just hitting the apex. If you understand that then it becomes clear that a micro-bevel may be a good solution for you.
 
Do any of you have any knowledge on SK5 steel? I have been looking at the CRKT Siwi, but I don't know anything about the steel.
 
IIRC it's a carbon (non-stainless) steel . Cold Steel uses this to good effect but I don't trust CRKT to do it right .

I almost bought this https://www.bladehq.com/item--CRKT-Johnson-Kangee-T-Hawk-13--15348 but read so many reviews of it badly chipping out I decided against . Bad heat treatment ? Can't say about the Siwi , but I'd check reviews for problems .

Edit : Just scanned some reviews of the Siwi and didn't see any problems . With a 3" blade , toughness is not as important as in a hawk .
 
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Hellbound said:
If you haven't already acquired one try a rat 1 in d2 and save the rest for a 6/8 inch dmt coarse/fine and any of the spyderco ceramics.
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THAT is a first class suggestion !
. . . and this thread is in serious, serious need of some photos.
I was doing a critical cut today on some larger diameter soft rubber hose and as I have said before this is critical because it is right in the customer's face and it has to look factory perfect.
Usually I use this knife which I have reprofiled extra thin and shallow angle and use only for this task.
IMG_2116.JPG

I have been EDCing the Rat 1 in D2 all week and decided to give it a try. This customer wasn't at all picky and I can fix it if I mess it up.
I oiled the knife and the tubing and went for it. I have never sharpened or touched up this knife since I got it and it has a week of pretty decent / frequent use on some abrasive materials.
. . . I couldn't believe how well the Rat did; nearly perfect and seriously effortless ! ! !
I am so impressed !
I decided to measure the thickness behind the edge and it is ~ 0.0195 inch and the surface of the sides of the blade are fairly polished (part of why it glided so well through this grabby material).
A seriously PRACTICAL knife ! . . . and I haven't had to fix anything on it / pivots great no play.
Buy one while you are looking for THE KNIFE.
IMG_5360.JPG
 
Wowbagger said:
THAT is a first class suggestion !
. . . and this thread is in serious, serious need of some photos.
I was doing a critical cut today on some larger diameter soft rubber hose and as I have said before this is critical because it is right in the customer's face and it has to look factory perfect.
Usually I use this knife which I have reprofiled extra thin and shallow angle and use only for this task.
View attachment 945928

I have been EDCing the Rat 1 in D2 all week and decided to give it a try. This customer wasn't at all picky and I can fix it if I mess it up.
I oiled the knife and the tubing and went for it. I have never sharpened or touched up this knife since I got it and it has a week of pretty decent / frequent use on some abrasive materials.
. . . I couldn't believe how well the Rat did; nearly perfect and seriously effortless ! ! !
I am so impressed !
I decided to measure the thickness behind the edge and it is ~ 0.0195 inch and the surface of the sides of the blade are fairly polished (part of why it glided so well through this grabby material).
A seriously PRACTICAL knife ! . . . and I haven't had to fix anything on it / pivots great no play.
Buy one while you are looking for THE KNIFE.
View attachment 945929
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I have the rat2 in aus8. It's hard to believe that you can get that kind of quality for under 30 buck. I have to get a d2 model. I would like to see a rat between the size of the rat1 and rat2. Maybe a 3.25 blade I think would be perfect with a 4 inch or 4 1/4 inch handle I think. You can't go wrong with one of these though. Great knife at an affordable price
 
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