Spyderco General Chat Thread

Yes, for better or worse, that is their policy. They will not sell nor ship any parts or anything that requires or promotes disassembly of their knives.
And especially in the case of this Manix 2 lightweight where drilling out rivets is the only way to disassemble the knife!
 
POCEH KOCEB said:
Thanks for the prompt input, I did see something in this line coming...
So Spyderco will not sell two scales/frames, we have to send the knife for repair ( if they actually go with the warranty at all, since this is not the original owner...) ?
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I would recommend calling Spyderco and see what they say and then go from there. :)
 
Ankerson said:
I would recommend calling Spyderco and see what they say and then go from there. :)
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SpeedHoles said:
Yes, for better or worse, that is their policy. They will not sell nor ship any parts or anything that requires or promotes disassembly of their knives.
And especially in the case of this Manix 2 lightweight where drilling out rivets is the only way to disassemble the knife!
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Got it, thank you both for the input ! I'll call Spyderco and will explain the case, if they have to go with their policy - that's fine, I'll see what the owner will decide, he is very handy, knife maker for itself, on a small scale but knows his stuff.
Still the alternative to go with the same blade in another frame seems more acceptable, to me at least... I do have Manix 2 LX with S30V and absolutely love it...
 
POCEH KOCEB said:
I'm not very familiar with the rules in the specific sub-forums, so please excuse me if this is not the right place to post this.
I'll be happy to do it in other thread if I have to.

I need a little help/advice for a friend of mine who lives in Europe.
He purchased used Manix 2 with CPM S110V.
This is the way he got the knife:

035209886-big.jpg

He was very happy to have it and to use it, but unfortunately the knife broke in this area ( his actual picture):
jtyiKq.png


Also unfortunately, he lives in a place, where there is not a big chase to have a Spyderco CS taken care of this...

He loves the knife and I'm asking in his behalf if you can give me idea how we can obtain another set of scales for it ?
I live in Florida and will be happy to purchase those from Spyderco and find a way to send it to him, otherwise if Spyderco mails those to Europe the shipping price will not justify the repair...

I thought I can ask here before I call Spyderco, maybe somebody already had such problem and they will give me some idea how to proceed, other than calling the manufacturer...
Thanks in advance, best regards!
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POCEH KOCEB said:
Got it, thank you both for the input ! I'll call Spyderco and will explain the case, if they have to go with their policy - that's fine, I'll see what the owner will decide, he is very handy, knife maker for itself, on a small scale but knows his stuff.
Still the alternative to go with the same blade in another frame seems more acceptable, to me at least... I do have Manix 2 LX with S30V and absolutely love it...
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It would seem there are two different stories about this knife (two different forums and two different posters) and a lot of confusion about how the damage occurred. Unfortunately, we do not have scales to send for repair and the only way we could evaluate the knife would be to receive it here for W&R to review. We can't make sense of the inconsistencies between the two posts and the two stories so unless we can inspect the knife I'm sorry to say there isn't much we can do.
Kristi
 
tazkristi said:
It would seem there are two different stories about this knife (two different forums and two different posters) and a lot of confusion about how the damage occurred. Unfortunately, we do not have scales to send for repair and the only way we could evaluate the knife would be to receive it here for W&R to review. We can't make sense of the inconsistencies between the two posts and the two stories so unless we can inspect the knife I'm sorry to say there isn't much we can do.
Kristi
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I understand, and have no problem with this at all. I didn't post anywhere else, the pictures are from his post in another European forum.
He contacted me, asking if I can get some info about repairing the knife, I did not discuss anything than this, nor how the knife was cracked/broken.
I'm just trying to help that guy, everything else is out of my picture, but thanks for letting me know, I would be interested to see who else is posting same pictures and where.
There are people that like to make sensations out of everything, I can assure you that I communicate directly with the owner of this knife and he did not post in other forums.
 
apparently the spyderco forum topic is result of mine "Spyderco's FRN handles durability?" in the cliff stamp's

http://www.cliffstamp.com/knives/forum/read.php?5,45539


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Spyderco's FRN handles durability?





this is my original post

A fellow member of a Bulgarian knife forum posted this today:

035209183-big.jpg


result of carving hard wood wedge for axe head

not the hardest of tasks for a folding knife but any knife can be broken especially those with skeletonized plastic handles

035209886-big.jpg


110V steel fiberglass-reinforced nylon (FRN) handle

the translucent bd1 steel version has FRCP (fiberglass reinforced co-polymer)

in this case

30v blade mounted on a 110v version frn scales

035113453-big.jpg


it is some kind of customisation job so I am pretty sure the warranty is out of the question but case like this can start discussion about improving the design with at least small 1/3 metal liners or full length like the endura's
 
I haven't had my Spydie-edge ATR for more than twenty minutes and I've already been bit twice. SE is stupid aggressive and sharp. I love the knife, I just hope it grows to love me too and stops trying to bite my finger off.
 
FriarPhenn said:
I haven't had my Spydie-edge ATR for more than twenty minutes and I've already been bit twice. SE is stupid aggressive and sharp. I love the knife, I just hope it grows to love me too and stops trying to bite my finger off.
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Haha, I've had a SpyderEdge tooth bite me here and there a few times, and they do grab! ...but that ATR is a Comp-lock, how are you getting bit? Shouldn't have any fingers near the bottom when you close it...
 
SpeedHoles said:
Haha, I've had a SpyderEdge tooth bite me here and there a few times, and they do grab! ...but that ATR is a Comp-lock, how are you getting bit? Shouldn't have any fingers near the bottom when you close it...
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There's enough tension on the pivot that the blade needs a little help to drop, so once I disengage the lock I close the knife with my thumb. My finger's been in the way twice now. Maybe with a little flicking the blade will drop better.
 
I've studied the photos of the broken handle and I've tried to think of what combination of forces would cause the handle to fail in that location. (I'm a structural engineer so I know a lot about stress analysis.) First of all nobody knows exactly what happened except the person that broke the handle. The rest of us are speculating, or in my case I'm going to say that I am making an educated guess. My educated guess is that there was more force applied to the handle than you would expect for carving a wedge, and this is based partly on the effort that people put into removing the S110V blades from the handles and partly on my faith that Spyderco tests their knives beyond normal use before putting them into production. To cause the handle to fail where it did I think would require a combination of lateral bending and torsion (twist) to concentrate tension stress in that location in the handle. I think the fixed metal piece that forms the top part of the lock strengthens the top part of the handle and so a failure is more likely to occur in the lower part of the handle.
 
bdmicarta said:
I've studied the photos of the broken handle and I've tried to think of what combination of forces would cause the handle to fail in that location. (I'm a structural engineer so I know a lot about stress analysis.) First of all nobody knows exactly what happened except the person that broke the handle. The rest of us are speculating, or in my case I'm going to say that I am making an educated guess. My educated guess is that there was more force applied to the handle than you would expect for carving a wedge, and this is based partly on the effort that people put into removing the S110V blades from the handles and partly on my faith that Spyderco tests their knives beyond normal use before putting them into production. To cause the handle to fail where it did I think would require a combination of lateral bending and torsion (twist) to concentrate tension stress in that location in the handle. I think the fixed metal piece that forms the top part of the lock strengthens the top part of the handle and so a failure is more likely to occur in the lower part of the handle.
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Trying to interpret this: A repeat of instances where the blade bit deep and the angle of the blade inside the wood was pointing into the wood instead of out, and simultaneously the cutter tried to pop/snap the shaving off using pressure and the torsion of the blade instead of stopping the cut or finishing the cut all the way through.
 
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Tdhurl1103 said:
Trying to interpret this: A repeat of instances where the blade bit deep and the angle of the blade inside the wood was pointing into the wood instead of out, and simultaneously the cutter tried to pop/snap the shaving off using pressure and the torsion of the blade instead of stopping the cut or finishing the cut all the way through.
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I think he's basically saying someone tried extracting the blade by prying the handles apart. That's how I interpreted it and also what I think happened.
 
KW just DROPPED the price on the Perrin PPT by a few bux.....pre-order only, but the gal on the phone said they will have 'em soon.
 
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